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ALUNAR 3D Desktop Printer Prusa i3 DIY High Accuracy CNC Self Assembly
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High Quality DIY Desktop 3D Printer Kit
As a pioneer of 3D printer manufacturer,ALUNAR uses revolutionary technology and high quality components, while using environmentally friendly practices to produce top notch 3D printers.
ALUNAR 3D printer is engineered to provide redefined usability,quality and performance while being affordable.With its high speed quiet design,it is easy to control producing high precision and smooth printing.
ALUNAR 3D printer is easy to assemble with instructions and software from the TF card included,also YouTube assembly videos are provided.
You can get your 3D printer up and running as quick as possible.
Wide Range of Use and Application: Regardless if a newbie or an advanced user of 3D printers,it is easy to set up and use.It is widely used for person,business and education.You can create really unique 3D designs by ALUNAR 3D printer.
Good DIY 3D Printer Structure and Stable Frame
Frame: Acrylic SD Card and LCD Screen: Yes XY Axis Accuracy: 0.012mm
Z Axis Accuracy: 0.004mm Extruders: 1 Print Color: Single
Extruder Diameter: 0.4mm Printing Speed: 100mm/s
Max. Print Size: 220x220x230mm (8.66 x 8.66 x 9.06 inch)
Nozzle Temp.: Recommended: 195C for PLA, Max 250C
Heated Bed Temp. around 100C Heated Bed Material: Aluminum
3D Filament: PLA,ABS.etc. Filament Diameter: 1.75mm
1. 3D printer kit
2. Spool holder
3. 1 roll 3D filament
4. USB cable for online printing
5. USB Card reader and TF card for offline printing
2004 LCD Screen, Easy to operate and Customized MK8 Extruder
- 2004 LCD screen with 5 keys buttons easy to operate
- Very smart, neat display
- Pause anytime during printing
- Good quality assembled extruder kit
- Included 0.4mm metal nozzle
- M6 barrel tube
- Updated heater block
- High Quality heater cable and thermistor
- 1. This 3D printer is in need of great passion,patience and operational ability since it is a DIY kit,comes with all the 3D printer spare parts, need to assemble by yourself.
- 2. This 3D printer is an user-certified DIY printer kit, it is fully normally functional,if any problems during the assembly and use, please feel free to contact for support
- 3. The power supply is 110V/ 220V,DO switch it to the right voltage.
- 4. Do connect the main board + and – exactly right to the power supply + and -.
Good Quality 3D Printer Spare Parts Fit for Multi-area Application
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Top customer reviews
ONE WEEK REVIEW:
Let's start with the cons... as there are not many:
1) The Videos to describe how to put them together were low quality videos. Had to do a lot of rewinding and reviewing to see which part they were talking about.
2) The power supply provided was bigger than the one in the video, took some electrical common sense to figure out that I wired the power into 2 grounds, thus providing no power.
3) Also, since the power supply was bigger, for some reason it would not mount, so I had to drill an additional hole in the acrylic on the side of the printer to mount it.
4) Not sure if it was my filament, or a dirty clog (seemed like the latter), but the first time I tried to put filament through it instantly clogged. Had to dismantle the extruder, and blowtorch the tip to unclog. Also, seemed a lot more difficult to remove than normal filament clogs, had to get feisty with a needle to get the gunk out. After reassembling, it was perfect.
5) The Z-Stop is a pain in the butt. Generally if you need to adjust the Z stop, it's a fraction of a millimeter, but this is a weird "slider" kind of mount that is very hard to make miniscule adjustments. I just tighten it really good, and gently force it into calibration after a few Z-Home clicks and minor adjustments through brute force. Will probably redesign the z-stop.
6) For some reason (maybe it's the way I assembled it?) the little fan that connects to the extruder blower for "tip-cooling" was long enough to touch the heating element on the extruder, and immediately melted. I will have to design and print a better one.
Everything freakin works great! My biggest frustration, aside from rewinding the video dozens of times, was adjusting the Z stop. The first print you can see on the left, at the bottom the Z was too high, but it eventually corrected itself and made a very clean print. The print on the right was actually done through a smart phone Repetier connection with a better Z-stop calibration.
You may be able to see the quality on the sides of the prints being a little spacey between the layers. The side that is showing is the only side that did this and I believe it's simply a bed leveling issue.
All-in-all I love this printer. I will be doing some advanced prints here in the next few weeks and I will be giving a one-month review with any additional experiences I acquire during that time.
6 MONTH REVIEW: Ok, so it has been a champ! I have had a few clogs in the extruder from switching between filaments and not purging the tip properly. Disassembled, torched, and reassembled.
Things to make careful note of: First off, the power supply is, in fact, underrated for the package. I received a 200W power supply, which is just shy of the requirements of perfect functionality. I ordered a 350W power supply for 3D printers, and hopefully it will resolve my issue. The only issue right now is how long it takes to heat the bed. When I tested with a multimeter, I was only getting 10.43V on the 12V powering the bed. I timed it today, and from ambient temperature (21C) it took 1 hour to get to 82C. Hoping the power supply is the only thing I need to address.
Still haven't had the time to print the new Z stop, as I really just want to redesign it instead of reprint the two parts into one. Just note that it is very finicky to adjust the z stop, and is generally a 5-10 minute process to get perfect calibration.
Finally, I highly highly recommend getting a 1/4"-3/8" of glass cut for this bed, as well as applying a PEI surface. This will help you stop using ABS slurry or tape to get your prints to adhere.
I designed and printed several different tips for the fan, but I have yet to print the perfect fan tip to replace the one it came with. When I do find a perfect fit, I will post a link in my review for the replacement tip.
1 YEAR+ REVIEW:
Ok, so I noticed several issues that needed to be addressed before I could consider this a good printer.
1) the acrylic bed may not be perfectly lined up with the screw holes on the bed. I ordered a replacement y carriage for the MK2 printbed off of reprapchampion.com and because of the design, I needed to print spacers to use the new bed. (spacers on thingiverse under mwinzer)
2) the print surface is incredibly slick, and is very hard to stick abs... you might get lucky with PLA... I recommend getting a piece of fitted glass and gator clamp it down. Use blue tape, or if you're feeling fancy, get a PEI build surface for your glass along with the 3M tape necessary to adhere it.
3) the Z stop mechanism is a sliding mechanism that resides directly behind one of the linear z rods/threaded rods. I redesigned a z-stop modification and uploaded it to thingiverse. (mwinzer is the name on thingiverse)
4) I needed to upgrade the power supply to get the bed to heat beyond 82C, then I noticed the temp jumps to 95C. The temperature table is off in the firmware, and the ANET customer service did not offer an update for firmware, but instead offered the suggestion to "lower the temperature"... long story short: ZERO customer service.
It was an amazing journey getting this thing printing like I like it... actually still have a friend that is planning on purchasing this for the same journey... as far as being 100% print ready? You'll have a lot to do. :)
The build took me roughly 6 hours over two nights, and I have a degree in electrical engineering with a minor in structural engineering. It isn't really difficult, but meticulous. The most tedious part of the build after it is working is properly leveling the hot-bed so that the extruder prints on it properly. You need a tolerance along the X-axis and Y-axis between the extruder no thicker than a piece of paper. It would also be prudent that you use something like blue masking tape across the hot-bed. I used the blue masking tape for a couple of prints, but opted to cut a piece of glass to cover the hot-bed.
The software provided on the Micro SD Card with the kit is Cura. Personally, I didn't like the software. I have issues with the X/Y-axis HOME positions. I've used Repetier Host (free), instead. I've had no problems with it.
Let's get my list of grievances out of the way first:
1. As many others have said, the assembly instructions a greatly sub-par. The quality is poor, it's far too fast forwarded, and the camera has this annoying auto-focus thing going on.
2. The instructions are misleading, outdated, or wrong. Clearly the design of the printer has been updated since the instruction videos were made. In the spirit of camaraderie in frustration, here are the updates I can remember (it's been a little while since I put the thing together) in no particular order:
a. The power supply is a different size than in the video. It still mounts without having to drill any holes, but you'll need to hunt around for them a bit.
b. The power supply has additional output ports. The input mappings are still correct: AC power goes in the first 3, but instead of the 2 V+ and COM ports shown in the video, the power supply that ships with it has 3 of each, make sure the red output wire goes into a V+ port, and the black a COM.
c. The display uses a 5 button selector instead of a dial w/ push button, but I'm sure you can figure it out.
d. The print bed support is no longer acrylic, and doesn't require a central stand-off piece. It also has 4 slots for bearing mounts, not 3. Don't worry, they ship the correct number.
I don't recall any more changes, but there may be some. General advice: use your good common sense.
3. Bed levelling is a pain with the screws they have in the corners. Not impossible, but annoying. I'm planning on drilling out the threads in the aluminium to actually use the wing nuts they provided.
4. The wiring for the bed is a little wonky. If you're not careful when running the power/sensor wires from it, have your soldering iron handy.
Now for the pros:
1. It's a great 3D printer for beginners. It gets you to think during it's construction so if it's doing something you don't like, you're prepared to fix it (admittedly, probably not a design choice)
2. Prints in fair quality.
3. Highly customizable. If you know what you're doing, you can easily upgrade/swap out parts, and there's nothing there to stop you.
4. Comes with an (admittedly pretty crappy) filament stand, so you don't have to buy one if you're ok with the 3 pieces of acrylic and piece of threaded rod as a filament stand.
I have only been able to print with PLA plastic so far, so I have no idea whether it can effectively print the other materials it claims to, but PLA prints really well.