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on June 30, 2014
I bought three of the Actiontec ECB2500C MoCA bridges (one twin pack, one single) to solve two problems for a friend's home network. Their Wi-Fi-connected Blu-ray player was far from their Wi-Fi router, and while adequate, would die when the microwave oven ran. And the Wi-Fi signal did not reach at all to the guest bedroom. This solution worked great. No configuration needed.

Environment:
Long, one-story house. Comcast triple play. Cable modem and Netgear WNDR4500 router in office at one end, Xfinity X1 cable box, dumb TV & smart Blu-ray player in living room in the middle, and guest bedroom at the far end. Each room had a coax home run to the point of entry.

Items bought in April 2014 from Amazon.com:
Holland Electronics MPOE-TM Point of Entry MoCA filter Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY
Monster TGHZ-3RF MKII three-output splitter 3 Way 2 GigaHertz RF Splitter 1 In 3 out
Monster TGHZ-2RF MKII two-output splitter Two Gigahertz Low-Loss RF Splitters for TV and Satellite MKII - 2 Way 2 GigaHertz RF Splitter
3 Actiontec ECB2500C MoCA bridges, 1 twin-pack, 1 single Actiontec Ethernet over Coax Adapter Kit for Homes without MoCA Routers
ZyXEL MWR102 Wi-Fi access point and Travel Router ZyXEL 3-in-1 Wireless N Pocket Travel Router, Access Point, and Ethernet Client (MWR102)

All three Actiontecs are H/W: 3A, F/W: 1.10.1.23 I did not attempt to update the firmware or make any configuration changes. They just worked. The twin pack includes the two units, two AC adapters (5v, 2.0A, center +, Level V), two 3' coax cables, two 6' Ethernet network cables, and one 2 GHz two-outlet splitter. The single pack includes no splitter.

The ZyXEL MWR102 has firmware v2.04r1. I found no newer firmware and I left the configuration at its defaults. I did have to press its reset button for 5 seconds at first before it would boot up and work properly.

Connections:

At the point of entry, I replaced the Commscope 1GHz splitter with a Monster 2GHz three-output splitter because MoCA uses frequencies above 1GHz. I have read here that some prefer less expensive brands, but Monster splitters have worked well for me. I added the Point Of Entry filter between the incoming coax and the splitter.

FYI, I read on other websites that the Holland Electronics MPOE-TM filter is rated for outdoor use. A different filter sold by Amazon is for indoor use only. Filter, MoCA "POE" for Cable TV & OTA coaxial networks ONLY

Ahead of the office's cable modem, I split the cable using the 2 GHz two-output splitter that came with the Actiontec twin-pack. One splitter output goes to the cable modem, the other to the Actiontec's coax input. On the Actiontec's coax output I attached one of the F terminators that came with the Monster splitter. I don't really know if this helps or hurts. I connected a network cable from the Actiontec's Ethernet port to a free port on the Netgear router.

To have one less wire flopping around, I mated one splitter output to the Actiontec coax input using a Male-to-Male F adapter (like a RS 278-219 or 278-275) or what is essentially a rigid, one-inch cable. I posted a Customer Image of this. Similar to this Steren 200-100 F Coupler - male to male

FYI, I tried and it did not work to use the Actiontec's internal splitter (cable output) to feed the cable modem. I had to use an external splitter.

Ahead of the living room's Xfinity X1 cable box, I split the cable using the Monster 2 GHz two-output splitter. Again, I mated one splitter output to the Actiontec coax input using a Male-to-Male F adapter. Again, I put an F terminator on the Actiontec coax output, and connected a network cable from the Actiontec's Ethernet port to the Blu-ray player. I configured the Blu-ray player to use its wired network connection instead of Wi-Fi.

FYI, the Xfinity X1 box can use MoCA to communicate to other X1-compatible cable boxes in the same home, but this home only has one cable box. The splitter built-in to the Actiontec MoCA bridge does not pass MoCA frequencies. It's meant to feed a dumb (pre-X1) cable box. So I did not even try to use the Actiontec's internal splitter and coax output to feed the Xfinity X1 box. I just used a 2GHz external splitter.

FYI, the Xfinity X1 box has an Ethernet port, so I tested to see if the X1 would act as a MoCA bridge and pass network signals to the Blu-ray player without needing an Actiontec here at all. No, this didn't work.

The guest room had no devices. I ran coax from the cable wall outlet to the coax input of the third Actiontec. Again, I put an F terminator on the Actiontec coax output, and connected a network cable from the Actiontec's Ethernet port to the jack labeled WAN of the ZyXEL MWR102 Wi-Fi access point. I set the ZyXEL's slide switch to "AP" (not "Router").

There is an AC adapter for each Actiontec and for the ZyXEL.

Results:

Now the Blu-ray player gets a strong network signal even when the microwave oven is on, and there is strong Wi-Fi in the guest bedroom (using the default SSID and password on the ZyXEL's label). The Internet upload and download speed is just as fast at each Actiontec as it is at the cable modem, which is around 35 Mbps or more download and 11 Mbps upload. My friends do not use their network for copying files between devices or streaming video between devices. The Xfinity X1 box seems to work just as well with the extra splitter upstream as it did without it.
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on March 30, 2015
A pair of these Actiontec adapters allowed me to get reliable connectivity between my Tivo Roamio OTA and a TiVo Mini.

I had tried to get away with connecting the Roamio OTA via WiFi to my home network, using an Ethernet cable only for the TiVo Mini, but watching Live TV or playing recorded shows was troublesome at the TiVo Mini, due to the WiFi connection of the Roamio OTA. At first, it seemed that a WiFi connection would be good enough, despite what the TiVo documentation says, but I soon discovered that although it had enough bandwidth for 480 and 720 shows (either live or recorded), the WiFi connected DVR couldn't stream 1080 content to the TiVo Mini reliably. I would occasionally get an error telling me that my network was too slow, whenever I watched Live TV or recorded shows at the TiVo Mini.

Now, I've still got the TiVo Mini plugged into my ISP's router via an Ethernet cable, but I've got one of the Actiontec adapters plugged into the router with an Ethernet cable also, along with a 75-Ohm Coax cable going to the Coax jack on the wall behind that TV. Upstairs, where the Roamio OTA DVR resides, it's now got an Ethernet connection going to the other Actiontec adapter, which itself is connected to the Coax wall jack behind that TV. Both of the Actiontec adapters have 12V power adapters plugged in, also.

Setup could not have been any easier. It didn't take but about 10 minutes from opening the box to cabling and powering up both adapters. I don't have any cable or satellite services coming into my home, so I didn't need the Moca filter. I just disconnected the main Coax cable coming in from the street, so that the two wall-mounted Coax jacks (at each adapter location) see each other via a splitter in the attic, but nothing else is on my "Moca" network.

I then changed the Roamio OTA to use an Ethernet connection instead of WiFi connection, then had it connect to the TiVo Network. I went to the the TiVo Mini and told it to connect to the TiVo Network and I was done!

Now, I no longer get the messages saying my network is too slow, when watching Live TV or recorded shows at my TiVo Mini because my Roamio OTA is now connected via Ethernet-Moca-Ethernet instead of WiFi.

(By the way, the TiVo Mini does not rely on its connection to the DVR when streaming from subscription services like NetFlix, Amazon, or Hulu Plus - it just goes directly to your router and out to their servers. That's why I've qualified my comments above to point out that I was only having problems with Live TV (where the TiVo Mini relies on the tuners built into the DVR) and recorded shows.)

I couldn't be happier with this product - it was money well spent.
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on August 3, 2012
I was very skeptical of this because I have used and put up with a similar device that does it over the electrical lines and it was stable but very slow. All of these devices are fine if you are only accessing the internet, but I have a large server with multi terrabytes of media that I like to stream through the house. I have a gigabit connection to every computer in the house, but I just couldn't get an ethernet cable downstairs to the TV, that was my issue.

As I said, with previous ethernet over powerline devices I was getting 2.5-3MB/s max through the devices. I was really needing more. So I gave this ethernet over coax a try because I have about 3 coax connections in each room, they are everywhere. I was not expecting much, but I was quite impressed. I ran many tests over the network to and from the server and I was getting a steady 9-10MB/s and it would peak up to 11.8MB/s, which is right at the ceiling of Fast ethernet which is what they chose to put on these devices. I firmly believe these could go faster if they had put in a gigabit port on it instead. That being said, i'm quite happy with this purchase. I'm getting FULL 100Mb/s speeds using this kit, I can stream even my largest 1080p mkv files to my TV now.

I can't recommend this kit enough, I've tried others, other technologies, but this one is amazing.
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on January 24, 2015
I bought this product because I shifted my cable company from Uverse to Comcast.

Each Uverse cable box has a RJ45 Ethernet plug in hole, so you can connect all your network devices. In contrast, Comcast only allows one cable modem per household.

Before Comcast came in to do the installation, I had these two adapters hooked up, and I also had a MOCA POE device hooked up at cable demarcation point. I demonstrated to Comcast technician that MOCA worked fine under Uverse. The technician insisted that he had to replace AT&T cable splitters with Comcast cable splitters. I checked those Comcast cable splitters, and found that they were rated at one ghz, and I know AT&T cable splitters are rated at 1.5 ghz. I also know for a fact that MOCA worked under 1.1 ghz to 1.4 ghz. I asked the technician not to replace cable splitters but he insisted that the replacement of cable splitters is the company policy. I told him to return AT&T cable splitters to me after his work.

After the installation, I found as expected, MOCA did not work any more. Worse still, the technician not only did not return AT&T cable splitters to me, but also had my MOCA POE device stolen. I was furious and reported the incident to Comcast. After more than one month, I still have not heard from them.

I repurchased the POE device and splitters at a cost of less than $20. I replaced Comcast cable splitters with newly purchased splitters and put back the newly purchased POE device. MOCA again works like a charm.

Comcast rents out their own home media system, so I strongly suspect that it has a corporate policy to sabotage customer's own MOCA system.
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on August 15, 2014
I haven't fully tested the speed of these yet, but as of now these are 5 stars.

I have FiOS in my 3 level house with a TV on each of the first 2 floors, and my work-from-home office on the third floor. I currently have the latest FiOS GigE router (802.11n) on the third floor to increase Internet speeds as much as possible where I mainly need them for my laptop, Ooma phone, etc...

I wanted to have wired Internet down on the other 2 floors of the home such that I could hook up my blu-ray player to the Internet on the first floor, and my Xbox 360 to the Internet on the second floor all without having to use wifi.

The setup of these adapters could not have been easier. On the first floor I simply put a 2 way coax splitter on the cable coming out of the wall, and then plugged one side of the coax split to the FiOS TV cable box, and the other side to one of the 2 included adapter boxes. I then plugged the adapter into the wall for power. Finally, I used an ethernet patch cable to connect the blu-ray player to the ethernet on the adapter. Just that easily the blu-ray player had full Internet. I repeated the same process on my Xbox, and it was just as easy. No settings, no frustration, just plug in and go.

I'm purchasing a pair of cheap gigabit switches to put between each Coax adapter and the devices on the first and second floors so I can plug more devices in on each floor. My biggest test is going to then be whether bluray images (~30-50GB each) stored on a gigabit network drive on the third floor will play without stuttering on WDTV boxes on the first and third floors. Theoretically with 270Mbps this should work. I'll update my post when I've had a chance to test.
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on November 21, 2014
Works great with FIOS. Gives me wired ethernet in any room where I have a FIOS cable. A much better solution than a wireless bridge. Operates my Slingbox at full wired speed.

UPDATE: From all the questions people are posing, it appears there is a LOT of confusion about what this product does. Very simply, this device converts a coax cable internet connection to (or from) an ethernet cable so it can be plugged into to any device which needs an internet signal such as a computer, xbox, playstation, roku, slingbox, etc. Most people have cable TV (including Fios) connections in multiple rooms of their house or apartment. This allows you to make use of unused capacity in the coax wire to transmit an internet signal in that same coax wire to any point where you have a cable tv connection. It serves the same purpose as an ethernet over powerline setup or a wireless bridge but much faster and more stable than either. It does't transmit TV signals, you must already have cable internet service and it has no wireless capabilities by itself. It is not going to give you some service for free that you don't currently have. It is simply a way to use your existing cable tv coax wire to run wired internet without having to run ethernet cable to any room where you have a tv hooked to cable. If you have cable internet, you need one of these devices to hook to your cable modem to "convert" the signal, and one at the other end to "convert" the signal to ethernet so you can hook it up to your computer or other device, including an access point, switch, or any other device with an ethernet port. Verizon Fios makes it simpler because they already use this type of signal to transmit their tv service. Therefore, you don't need the device to "convert" their signal. You only need one of these devices in any room where you have a tv connected to Fios to convert their existing signal to an ethernet cable.

Sorry for the long-winded explanation but I hope this helps someone. I am surprised at the number of questions people seem to have about what is just a simple converter box.
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on October 21, 2016
NOTE #1: Before you buy this thinking that you only need one adapter. You need to buy the double pack of adapters which is around $114.

NOTE #2: You might need to buy coax cables if you want to hook up your TV as well.

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As stated in the description of the product. You can get over 200 Mbps (with Open NAT) of data transfer. I mostly get 65 Mbps upload and 24 Mbps download. Either way, the adapter gets the job done as stated in the product description.

This way is easier and less painful if you went with the access point/Powerline adapter route, if you live in a 2 story house and the house is on different power grids on each floor. I did this, and we ended up with low speeds and Closed NAT type on the devices. I now look back and wished we went this route in the first place.

P.S - This is also a better solution if you don't want to send $200 on an Internet jack in a part of your house.

The setup is easy and nothing mind blowing. It's mostly a plug and play adapter.

Sadly, there are some flaws; 1) If you get this you might want to run it in 'Config Mode' and run a scan on the Frequency. I had to do this since I was only getting 9 Mbps for upload and now I get 65 for upload. 2) I don't know if it's my adapter, but sometimes the connection between the COAX cable and the adapter will come lose if you put it up high in a location. Try to keep it on the same level as with the wall entry point of the COAX cable from your room.

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* The setup I currently use:

First floor;
- Coax wall jack <
- Coax cable from wall jack to adapter <
- Coax cable from adapter to modem/router <
- Ethernet cable from adapter to router <

Second floor;
- Coax wall jack <
- Coax cable from wall jack to adapter <
- Ethernet cable from adapter to PC <
- Coax cable from adapter to TV service box (if you have an extra COAX cable, this can be optional)

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As a media server test, I did with Plex. I tried to see if using the Coax to Internet solution will be able to have the media server pair with a device like an Xbox (since you have to have the server and Xbox on the same home network). And, it works. I paired it with the Plex Xbox One (Xbox connected wireless to the modem) app, turned the server on from the PC and we were able to play movies. I also used Chromecast to stream my movies from my desktop to Chromcast as well and it worked perfectly.
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on September 17, 2017
Hands down a much better solution over drilling holes in the ceiling to wire the upstairs or the wireless router that we was using. We still use the wireless for our wireless devices (tablet, e-reader, phone), but for low latency 100% reliability demanding games, that was not a good solution. It performs as if it was physically plugged into the downstairs router, couldn't ask for better. I did find that my router would at times get confused and apply the same IP address to some devices. I solved that by applying static (assigned) IP addresses and haven't had a single glitch or hiccup. I highly recommend this solution to get Internet in multiple rooms that are wired with coax! Environment: 2 story house built in 1985. Ground floor cable Internet connected to Netgear wireless router. Cable coax --> MoCA router ---> Actiontec router. Upstairs, coax --> Actiontec. Upstairs has a coax outlet about 10 feet away from office computer. Very easy to install, 10 minutes tops.
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on October 1, 2016
Works well with one exception: The devices have simple "fast Ethernet" ports on them. That means that they are bottlenecked to 100 mbps speeds, which is much slower than advertised. I'm returning mine and buying one with a gigabit port. These are not worth the expense considering the slow physical port Actiontec used, which cripples the device.
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on July 2, 2015
Works great, plug n play! I'm using Comcast cable service with 88 Mbps download speed when connected directly to modem with Ethernet cable. Connected the two Actiontecs using a dead (unused) additional coax line from an old home installation that runs outside house about 200 ft of distance and back thru bedroom upstairs wall with coax. So my total routing is:

Cable service coax > Arris SB6141 modem > Ethernet cable > Netgear 900 wireless router > Ethernet cable > Actiontec #1 > coax > old wall coax (not service coax) > 200' to other room wall coax > coax > Actiontec #2 > Ethernet cable > Netgear WNR2000 wireless router > Ethernet cable > laptop computer.

Believe it or not all this daisy chain works so that I have two wireless routers running with the Actiontecs between them. Service test at laptop at end of chain still at maximum speed 88 Mbps download, 6 MBps upload (same speed as direct connect to modem). Tested speed at modem and end of Actiontec chain downstream of two routers and there are no detectable speed losses in system using direct wired Ethernet at end (no wireless). Wireless is maxed out at the router capabilities.

Update 12-15-2015 still works great. Updated my speed report from 58 to 88 after replacing some old cable connections outside. If I have to restart my modem or routers, I can leave the Actiontec pair on and no problems. I have also reversed the order of two routers daisy chained(described above) and Actiontec works either way, including directly plugged into modem Ethernet. The cable tech said he was going to get himself a pair (did not know these existed).
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