![Adafruit 0.56" 4-Digit 7-Segment Display w/I2C Backpack - Blue [ADA881]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51ZxCoiTmFL.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_ML2_.jpg)
![Adafruit 0.56" 4-Digit 7-Segment Display w/I2C Backpack - Blue [ADA881]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51ZxCoiTmFL._AC_UL200_SR200,200_.jpg)
I enjoyed showing my student how to wire this LED display to the Raspberry Pi 3B+.
The display is well engineered and works great!
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![Adafruit 0.56" 4-Digit 7-Segment Display w/I2C Backpack - Blue [ADA881]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51ZxCoiTmFL._AC_UL116_SR116,116_.jpg)
$15.66
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Working flawlessly for the last 7 months
Reviewed in the United States on September 30, 2017
I have been using this Display for the last 7 months. This has been turned on continuously for the whole duration and has not failed yet. I am using it to display the current temperature of my area code. The display is bright and was easy to control with the ESP8266. However, there is some soldering required to completely assemble the display.SOLDERINGThis product came in two pieces. One was the display matrix (the display part where you see all the glowing digits) and a backpack (that contains the HT16K33 chip.) The backpack makes hides the complexities of controlling the display matrix so that you can only use 2 pins to control the display + 2 pins of power. However, backpack and display matrix needs to be soldered together. You would have to solder 18 pins to get the display matrix and backpack together.VOLTAGEI have been using nodeMCU which operates at 3.3 V and it is working fine. Adafruit's web site mentions that this can be powered with 3.3 or 5 V.PIN CONNECTIONSOnce you have the matrix and backpack connected, you can control the display with I2C (Inter-Integrated Circuit) protocol. This means you have to use only two pins for controlling the display. You would still have to provide power to the display. On the top of the display there are four pins.Pin marked as SCL in back (C in front) is the clock pin. This needs to be connected to the Clock/SCL pin on your microcontroller. On Node MCU this is D2 pin, on the Uno this is A4Pin marked as SDA in back (D in front) is the data pin. This needs to be connected to the SDA/data pin on your micro-controller. On Node MCU this is D1 pin, on the Arduino Uno this is A5Pin marked as GND in back (- in front) is the round pin.This needs to be connected to any of the GND pins on your micro-controller.Pin marked as VCC in back (+ i front) is the voltage pin. This needs to be connected to the pin marked as 3.3v or 5V on your micro-controller.SOFTWARE LIBRARYI have been using nodeMCU to control the display. The Adafruit_LEDBackpack library works fine and is very easy to write data using the Adafruit_7segment class. The Adafruit_7segment.print, draw methods let me write HEX or Base 10 numbers to the display. Adafruit_7segment.drawColon would control the colon on the display.
Reviewed in the United States on September 30, 2017
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 30, 2017
SOLDERING
This product came in two pieces. One was the display matrix (the display part where you see all the glowing digits) and a backpack (that contains the HT16K33 chip.) The backpack makes hides the complexities of controlling the display matrix so that you can only use 2 pins to control the display + 2 pins of power. However, backpack and display matrix needs to be soldered together. You would have to solder 18 pins to get the display matrix and backpack together.
VOLTAGE
I have been using nodeMCU which operates at 3.3 V and it is working fine. Adafruit's web site mentions that this can be powered with 3.3 or 5 V.
PIN CONNECTIONS
Once you have the matrix and backpack connected, you can control the display with I2C (Inter-Integrated Circuit) protocol. This means you have to use only two pins for controlling the display. You would still have to provide power to the display. On the top of the display there are four pins.
Pin marked as SCL in back (C in front) is the clock pin. This needs to be connected to the Clock/SCL pin on your microcontroller. On Node MCU this is D2 pin, on the Uno this is A4
Pin marked as SDA in back (D in front) is the data pin. This needs to be connected to the SDA/data pin on your micro-controller. On Node MCU this is D1 pin, on the Arduino Uno this is A5
Pin marked as GND in back (- in front) is the round pin.This needs to be connected to any of the GND pins on your micro-controller.
Pin marked as VCC in back (+ i front) is the voltage pin. This needs to be connected to the pin marked as 3.3v or 5V on your micro-controller.
SOFTWARE LIBRARY
I have been using nodeMCU to control the display. The Adafruit_LEDBackpack library works fine and is very easy to write data using the Adafruit_7segment class. The Adafruit_7segment.print, draw methods let me write HEX or Base 10 numbers to the display. Adafruit_7segment.drawColon would control the colon on the display.
Color: WhiteVerified Purchase
Working flawlessly for the last 7 months
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 30, 2017
I have been using this Display for the last 7 months. This has been turned on continuously for the whole duration and has not failed yet. I am using it to display the current temperature of my area code. The display is bright and was easy to control with the ESP8266. However, there is some soldering required to completely assemble the display.Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 30, 2017
SOLDERING
This product came in two pieces. One was the display matrix (the display part where you see all the glowing digits) and a backpack (that contains the HT16K33 chip.) The backpack makes hides the complexities of controlling the display matrix so that you can only use 2 pins to control the display + 2 pins of power. However, backpack and display matrix needs to be soldered together. You would have to solder 18 pins to get the display matrix and backpack together.
VOLTAGE
I have been using nodeMCU which operates at 3.3 V and it is working fine. Adafruit's web site mentions that this can be powered with 3.3 or 5 V.
PIN CONNECTIONS
Once you have the matrix and backpack connected, you can control the display with I2C (Inter-Integrated Circuit) protocol. This means you have to use only two pins for controlling the display. You would still have to provide power to the display. On the top of the display there are four pins.
Pin marked as SCL in back (C in front) is the clock pin. This needs to be connected to the Clock/SCL pin on your microcontroller. On Node MCU this is D2 pin, on the Uno this is A4
Pin marked as SDA in back (D in front) is the data pin. This needs to be connected to the SDA/data pin on your micro-controller. On Node MCU this is D1 pin, on the Arduino Uno this is A5
Pin marked as GND in back (- in front) is the round pin.This needs to be connected to any of the GND pins on your micro-controller.
Pin marked as VCC in back (+ i front) is the voltage pin. This needs to be connected to the pin marked as 3.3v or 5V on your micro-controller.
SOFTWARE LIBRARY
I have been using nodeMCU to control the display. The Adafruit_LEDBackpack library works fine and is very easy to write data using the Adafruit_7segment class. The Adafruit_7segment.print, draw methods let me write HEX or Base 10 numbers to the display. Adafruit_7segment.drawColon would control the colon on the display.
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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on February 18, 2018
Color: WhiteVerified Purchase
The included backpack is easy to install and makes working with the display (using ...
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on February 18, 2018
I used this for a custom heating application. The build and functional quality of the display is spot-on. The included backpack is easy to install and makes working with the display (using their library) a piece of cake. I was able to focus on my application, without having to worry about the low-level operation of the display. I like the appearance of the white display. My only complaint is the lack of a bezel mount adapter. I wanted my final product to look good and that was really difficult to do with this display. Without a bezel I had a make an exacting cutout in the box using a bridgeport milling machine at a friend's workplace. Something 99.9% of those using this product won't be able to do. There is zero room for error, without a bezel to snap in, while providing a frame around the display to hide the cutout. Pictured is the final product. I ordered a smoke-colored plastic piece from an enterprising person who's marketing an external bezel solution.
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on February 18, 2018
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Amazon Customer
Five Stars
Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on January 10, 2016Color: BlueVerified Purchase
RedVortex
Super easy to use with Raspberry Pi, good product
Reviewed in Canada 🇨🇦 on April 5, 2017Color: RedVerified Purchase
