|Item Weight||0.8 ounces|
|Package Dimensions||4.8 x 2 x 1 inches|
|Item model number||DSA03202-V1|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
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Aeon Labs DSA03202 v1 - Z-Wave Minimote
|Price:||$22.00 & FREE Shipping|
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|Item Weight||—||0.5 lb||1.68 ounces||4.25 lbs|
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The Minimote combines a simplistic design with advanced features, making programming and controlling your Z-Wave network easier than ever. Four recessed scene buttons on the main face of the remote allow you to conveniently turn scenes on/off and adjust brightness with simple button taps.
The easy-to-use, Aeon Labs Z-Wave DSA03202 remote control by Aeon Labs is identical in functionality as Minimote model DSA03202W-ZWUS. The installed on-board firmware is the latest edition version, bringing you identical capabilities as the Minimote DSA03202W-ZWUS. The differences are only cosmetic, with the DSA03202 v1 having numbered buttons, while the DSA03202W-ZWUS does not. The DSA03202W-ZWUS is also available in color black. Charging your Minimotes' battery 1)Plugin your Minimote into any USB port (Smart Phone Charger, Laptop, Desktop, etc). 2)You'll notice that a red LED will appear next to the miniUSB port of the Minimote. 3)Leave your Minimote charging for at least 2 hours to fully charge the Minimote (assuming that you are using at least a 5VDC and 1A output charging adapter). 4)When the LED next to the miniUSB port turns blue, this will indicate a full charge on your Minimote. You may now remove the Minimote from USB connection.
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However, now that the frustration is over I have the buttons programmed to turn on and off my waterfall and a couple of lights. Pretty slick.
Hold the top two scene buttons at same time to turn on all zwave devices. Bottom two turn them off
I used this as a setup guide: [...]
I use it to keep the wife happy with activating scenes. It's a lot easier to press a button than it is to tool around in any of the "not-quite-awesome" apps designed for the VeraEdge.
There are two reasons to get this device:
1) To use it as a remote for a device or a group of devices (scene).
2) To associate two devices together, like a remote switch to a master switch (three way, four-way, etc.)
I am using a Wink hub (original) and wanted to set up Linear WT00Z Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switches. Those are basically remote controls that look and mount into the wall like a normal switch, but they wireless tell the real switch to turn on or off. So the main switches I wanted to use were the Linear WD500Z Z-wave (dimmer) and the Linear WS15Z (simple on/off). Unfortunately, the Linear devices do not have any instructions, so I had to call Wink support, who was also clueless. Wink support confirmed that they couldn't send an "Associate" command for Z-wave devices, which was required if you wanted to make one remote a slave to a master device.
So here are the steps required to make it work with the Wink Hub!
Wire all of your switches into the wall and make sure they have power. Make sure your Wink Hub is set up and your app is also set up. This should be obvious if you've done any work with electrical switches, but otherwise you can YouTube it or call an electrician to do it for you if you are incapable of safely doing this step.
2) Excluding/dissociating everything:
Open the Wink app, select the Hub, hit the gear icon in the top right, select your Hub again, scroll to the middle of the page and touch "Z-wave" then push the "EXCLUSION MODE" button. Your Hub should start blinking green. Double-tap the top or bottom (doesn't matter which) of one of your Linear switches. Double-tapping makes it look for a connection. Your Wink Hub should go back to a solid blue LED. Do this for all of your Z-Wave switches one-at-a-time so you can make sure they dissociate from any previous connections, like a test Hub at the factory.
3) Adding switches to the Wink Hub:
Go through the same steps on the Wink app but this time, hit the "INCLUSION MODE" on your switches. Do everything one-at-a-time. Once done, all of your switches will be listed in the app. The master switches should be recognized as real light switches, but the remotes will be "Unknown Devices" that won't appear anywhere except when you tap the big picture of your Hub to see what devices are connected to it. As long as all of your switches are showing up somewhere (either in Lighting, Switches, or under the Hub), then you're ready for the Minimote.
4) Adding the Minimote to the Wink Hub:
You'll do the same steps you did for your switches, but you'll do it for your Minimote (both the EXCLUSION step and then the INCLUSION step). The Minimote should have a "Join" button with a WiFi looking symbol. If not, it's the bottom-right button. Once added to the Hub, the Minimote should also show up as an "Unknown Device" listed on your Hub section (touch the picture of the Hub and it'll give you a drop-down list). If the Minimote was never associated with anything at the factory, putting the Wink Hub into "EXCLUSION MODE" then hitting the "Join" button the Minimote might force the Hub to add the Minimore straight-away. Go ahead and try the "INCLUSION MODE", but if it's already added, it's fine.
5) Preparing the Minimote:
At this point, your Wink Hub has accepted and connected to all of your devices. Unfortunately, your Linear Remote Accessory Switch cannot pair with their respective master switches through the Wink Hub because Wink has not added the command into the repertoire. So you can use your Minimote instead! Head to Google and search for Aeon Labs Minimote First Generation Firmware Update. Make sure you select the US-based frequency, download, and run the updater while you have the Minimote plugged into a Windows computer. You'll also need to leave it plugged in to charge the internal rechargeable battery.
6) Final steps:
The directions given with your 1st generation Minimote is to set it up as just a remote for Z-wave devices. However, we're trying to use it as an intermediary device to make master-slave set-ups. In order to do that, you need to get near your first main switch that you want to work with. Tap the bottom-left button on the Minimote ("Associate" button, but mine was just blank and unlabeled). This will make the Minimote blink blue constantly for a minute if you do no other actions. You may see some randomly flashing red lights, but you can ignore it for the most part. Now, if you're using a Linear switch, double-tap the top or bottom of the paddles on the switch to make it look for a connection. Your Minimote should show you a solid blue LED signal for about two seconds, then start flashing twice as fast as before. This part can fail, where your minimote doesn't hold a solid blue and just keeps on blinking slowly. If that happens, double-tap your Linear switch again since it didn't connect to the Minimote the first time. If you see a solid red LED on the Minimote for two seconds, then it probably means that the switch you're trying to connect has not been successfully connected to the Hub, or the Minimote was not successfully connected to the Hub. In the case of a red LED, return to Step 2 of this guide and go though the process again. However, if you successfully had a solid blue LED signal and your Minimote is now flashing twice as fast, then it's looking for additional devices. It means that it accepted your first switch as the master switch and you can now add as many slave switches to make it as 3-way, four-way, etc. connection. So you'll have about a minute to walk over to your remote switch and double-tap that as well. Your Minimote should go to a solid blue LED signal for two seconds, then go back to blinking quickly. If that doesn't happen, just double-tap the remote switch again. I had to try double-tapping four times before it showed me a solid blue 2-second LED signal. The Minimote will wait for you to associate more remote switches, but if you're done, you can wait for it to time out. That's it! You may have to toggle on/off a few times on the switches, but they'll sync together and now your remote switch will act as a secondary switch to your main one.
Note: The Lnear WT00Z is just an accessory/remote switch. It looks like a switch but you do not actually wire it to a light fixture (load). Instead, you connect it to ground, neutral, and line (power), with nothing going to load. So you're essentially just hard-wiring a remote control into the wall, taking power from the junction, and making it look like a regular light switch.
2nd Note: I tried the above steps before updating the firmware for the Minimote. Nothing worked as it should, none of the guides worked, and it was just a nightmare. Updating the firmware made everything work instantly.
3rd Note: You'll be forcing your Wink Hub to accept your new devices even if they are not officially supported. If the Hub hangs, you will have to just pull the power plug out of the Wink Hub, wait 10 seconds, plug it back in, and wait for it to finish booting up before continuing on. It happens on rare occasions.
4th Note: There are on/of toggle switches next to the "Unknown Devices" listed on the Wink Hub app. If you're struggling to associate devices, toggle everything on then try the association mode on the Minimote.
While I was doing my setup, I found that the Linear WD500Z was defective. I had a spare GE Jasco 45637 ZW4001 Z-wave On/Off Light Switch for Lowe's Iris Hub. The Wink Hub detected the GE switch just fine, but I wasn't sure if the Linear Remote Accessory switch would work with it since the instructions on the GE Jasco stated that it required GE Auxiliary Switch 45610 or 45638 to use it in a three-way configuration. Fortunately, using the Minimote allowed my Linear Accessory switch to work with the GE switch! No lag, no issues, they just paired together instantly.
What a great little device! And now that I am finished setting up my home, I can just use it as a regular remote for any Z-Wave devices.