|Item Weight||0.64 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||2 x 2 x 0.7 inches|
|Item model number||DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small
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- Low cost switch to enable remote control for existing in-wall switch
- Report immediate wattage consumption or kwh energy usage over a period of time
- Support Z-Wave Explorer frames. Repeat Z-Wave message
- Z-wave certification Number:zc08-12090006
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Aeon labs micro smart switch is a low-cost Z-Wave light dimmer specifically used to enable Z-Wave Command and control (on/off/dim) for existing in-wall switches. The wireless module is powered from the mains Supply and is a three-wire design which requires a neutral connection. In the event of power failure, non-volatile memory retains all programmed information relating to the units operating status. The wireless protocol is based Z-Wave which provide a mesh network for commands to Hop from node to node for reliability.
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You will likely need 2 kinds of wire that are not included with this unit (just a short 6" or so):
1.) 12 gauge solid wire to go from this switch to the existing neutral bundle of wires in your box. Get it in white. You'll need one of these.
2.) 18 gauge solid wires (aka thermostat wire) to go from this switch to your existing toggle (or whatever kind) switch. You'll need two of these.
Also - IF IT STARTS BUZZING AND CLICKING AND TURNING THE LIGHT ON BY ITSELF: it is not possessed, you did not spectacularly fail, and you (probably) won't burn your place down. The switch is simply in the wrong mode. Press the button on the switch to make it cycle through until it gets into the correct mode. The instructions describe what these are, but they have to do with what types of external switch you put in front of this thing.
These things work beautifully. The learning curve for wiring one up is pretty steep if you've never messed with switches before. Here's a summary of what I had to do to get it working.
1.) Turn the light off. Kill the breaker to the switch.
2.) Unscrew the plate and existing switch. Take the wires off the old switch (leave the ground wire on, though). Popping the existing wires out of the back of the old switch was the hardest part here. In most cases, it should not be necessary to cut any existing wires as you'll just be reusing whatever wires were going to your old switch. Wish I had known that before I needlessly chopped off my line wire and made it shorter and harder to work with.
3.) Pull out the white wires (neutrals) connected together with a wire nut from the back of the box.
4.) Unscrew the wire nut off the neutrals. Add in the short 12 gauge neutral wire I referenced you would need above and screw the wire nut back on.
5.) Connect the 3 wires that are now open to the new switch: line, load, neutral (double-check the diagram to know which ones go where).
7.) Take the two 18-gauge wires I referenced above and use them to connect your existing switch to the "wall switch" ports on the micro switch. In my case, the 18-gauge wire was too small to stick into the wire holds of my toggle switch. Instead, I just hooked the wire around the screw on the side and tightened it that way.
8.) Turn breaker on. Check to see you've got a red LED on the micro switch.
9.) Put your hub in discovery mode. Push the button on the micro switch once to make it pair.
10.) Verify the light turns on both from the hub and from toggling your switch. If it works, do a victory dance. You're not quite done yet, though. Again, if it starts doing the weird buzzing/clicking/ghostly activities - you probably just need to switch the mode. As a non-electrician, though, this freaked me out like none other when mine did it.
11.) Turn breaker back off. Cram everything back in. This was the worst part for me as I was dealing with a 3-switch gang box with wire seemingly everywhere. I couldn't really see a clean way to mash the micro switch in as no matter how I put it, one side had wire coming out of it at a 90-degree angle, which didn't seem ideal. My first attempt of the Big Wire Cram resulted in two of the wires popping out, so I had to backtrack after I'd already screwed everything back in. I suggest doing this in stages - cram everything in, turn breaker on and test. Turn back off, screw on the external switch. Test again. Turn off, put the plate back on. Turn back on, and you're done. I would prefer to avoid trying to put 3 of these in the same box unless they come out with a smaller or better-designed wired version.
A couple other notes for people who are totally new to this:
Line/Hot = wire coming from the breaker
Load = wire going to the light fixture
Traveler = optional wire that runs between two (or more) switches that allows you to flip the same light on/off from multiple places. Normally red.
It can be hard to tell which is which between line/load as both of these are usually black. From my experience, the line wire was almost always connected via wire nut in the back of the box while the load wire was just free by itself. The load wire was also generally closer to the traveler wire.
Be prepared: the first time you do this will probably take awhile. But if you know what you're doing or have already done one, you could easily wire it up in 15-20 minutes or so.
Overall, great result and highly addictive. Once you get one up and running, good luck pacing yourself from wanting to immediately replace every switch in your house.
These are amazingly easy to install; all one has to do is screw in your existing switch into one side and the load and neutral wires into the other and you are done. You then pair it with your controller and your controller can now control this switch as well as get a realtime reading of the instantaneous energy usage. This is the only retrofit device I have found on the market, and I just love them.
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I've attached my Smart Home Lighting Guide to help you understand how these things are wired if necessary.Read more