The Warning…===========Long review!Looks like I can only upload 20 images per review, so I'll only upload pictured for the analog testers here. For pictures of digital testers go to either one of the digital testers mentioned here.The blah-blah…===========Do you really need a Battery Tester? Not when you can buy eight batteries for a dollar, that’s for sure. But what if you don’t use ‘eight-for-a-dollar’ batteries? And even if you do, what if that dollar is hard-earned? What if about 10-15% of batteries (even 20% or more according to some reports) you throw away are actually in good condition and have at least 80% charge left in them?The reason that’s happening is due to the fact that many times out of those 2, 3 or 4 batteries in your device (typically connected in series) there’s a high chance that either one or two or three of them wear faster (sometimes much faster) than the other one(s), rendering your device useless. Other times, for whatever reason one or all cells (or the spring and the contact plate in the device itself) develop a thin, insulating oxide layer (typically at the negative pole) again causing symptoms of dead batteries. So without knowing, the natural tendency is to replace all batteries with fresh ones and discard all the used ones. Also, many times a battery powered device is positively defective. Best thing one can do is to replace batteries and check. But in the process, the old batteries get discarded. After new batteries are installed and the device still does not power up, usually one removes and saves the new batteries, but never goes back to the trash to pick the ones he just threw out.And throwing away good batteries whether knowingly or not is waste, and waste is waste, no matter how you look at it. Therefore, do you think you need a Battery Tester now? If yes, which one!? Read on…Nowadays you can buy a variety of Battery Testers that cost anywhere between $0.99 and $2,200. Until I started to dig more into this topic, I never realized there are so many types out there. And the more I dug, the more I found. Then I made the mistake and looked on eBay. BIG mistake. Oh, and God forbid you search for “vintage”! Lots and lots and lots of models! And almost all looked different. Until I realized that in fact, yes, there are many styles, but many revolve around one or two…or maybe three design concepts that either evolved in time or got copied and replicated by others ad-infinitum.I’m pretty sure that if you’re managing fleets of battery powered equipment and replacing dozens and hundreds of batteries on a daily basis, you know what you are doing and you’re using higher-end professional gear. But if you’re not, then these sub-$50 toys will to the trick. Also, these are not meant to and can’t compete in any way, shape or form with the modern crop of dedicated chargers such as LaCrosse, Opus, Maha or Nitecore that will analyze your NiCd, NiMH or Li rechargeable in more ways than you will ever need but don’t tell you a single thing about your Alkalines. These are cheap tools, but dedicated ones, simple, intuitive and very easy to use by anyone, engineer, geek or not.Moreover, neither a smart charger, nor the fanciest Fluke you might have in your arsenal will show you what these cheap tools do: measure a battery and give you an indication under load conditions. Not as easy and fast, anyways. Yes, you might take a 5 or 10ohm resistor, put it across a AA battery and measure the voltage and/or current. Then, take a 20ohm, and measure a AAA. Then take a 1kohm and measure a 9V…and so on. But that’s like using your screwdriver for a chisel.So before you want to purchase a particular model of battery tester over another, here are a couple of decisions you might have to make: analog vs. digital; new vs. vintage; multi-mode vs. single mode; hand held or desktop; simple or more complex; small vs. large; cheap vs expensive. Just keep in mind that you will not be able to find the cheapest, the smallest, the easiest to use, the most featured, the fastest and the most accurate meter - all in one tool. Go over the rankings and look at Pros and Cons of each model in the review below for a full picture.The Test Notes…=============I am not affiliated with either of the companies that sell any of the following testers, I have not received any “free samples for my unbiased review” and the only reason I preferred one tester over another is purely technical and based on my own observations.This review is for Battery Testers for generic 1.5V Alkaline, 3V, 6V, 12V photo, button cells, coin cells and primary Lithium batteries, not for 6V and 12V automotive (lead-acid), dedicated watch battery testers or dedicated Lithium pack analyzers. Also, I focused more on the AAA-AA-C-D-9V-Li batteries than on button or coin cells but I did specify in Pros or Cons if each tester does or does not accept such cells.Resistance (loads), currents and voltages measured with Fluke 87-V. Voltage injected with a digital variable power supply.Although I used the variable power supply to gauge the accuracy of the indication (whether analog or digital), I also tested hundreds of batteries of all states of charge with each tester to see their behavior and get a more true-to-real-world result.Review is divided into Analog Testers, Digital Testers and Other Flavors (other units that I looked at, intentionally skipped or missed on eBay).The batteries…===========Among the couple hundred batteries I went through in one shot, I found the following:As new (as in…1.6V new):- 10pcs AAA- 19pcs AA- 5pcs C- 1pc 9VWith 80% or better charge:- 8pcs AAA- 18pcs AA- 4pcs C- 1pc DTotal: 66 pcs of perfectly usable batteries.Also:- 11 pcs – misc. types with 60-80% charge and- 12 pcs – misc. types with 40-60% charge. Good for who knows what. They’ll probably work just fine in clocks, remotes, weather stations, mice and keyboards for at least another year or so…- Almost all “no-name” batteries were either leaked or plain dead. No surprise here, but be careful with the things you’re buying out there and have “batteries included”. As soon as you buy anything that comes with batteries, look them up. If they’re no-name, use the device until they’re exhausted (trust me, it won’t be too long) and try to remember to remove them or replace them immediately after they’re dead, otherwise they’ll leak corrosives in your device like a hydrant.- Another curious thing I noticed is that although the proportion of discarded AAA is quite higher than the AA, I found significantly fewer good AAAs than AAs. Don’t have an explanation other than the fact they store significantly less energy and they just deplete much faster overall.- All D types except one were very weak or exhausted. This is likely the opposite situation of AAA. Usually D’s are used in high drain devices, so…they drain.- All 9V except one were either dead or weak, and that’s no wonder since it’s usually a single battery sitting probably for years in remotes, smoke alarms or who knows where, so when they’re gone, they’re gone.The Battery Testers…================Analog:======A1: Gemoro Watch Battery Tester ($10 to $13)A2: Gardner Bender GBT-500A ($8 - $12)A3: Minwa MW-222 Battery Tester ($6 to $10)A4: Gardner Bender GBT-3502 ($6 - $7)A5: Square Battery Tester ($2 to $8)A6: Amprobe BAT-250 (caliper) (around $8)A7: PT W2987 (caliper) ($1.49 to $7)A8: Generic Analog Multi-Meter with Battery Test ($10 to $15)A9: (Vintage) Maxell Battery Checker ($15 on eBay)Digital:=====D1: ZTS-Mini MBT ($42)D2: (Vintage) Radio Shack Digital 22-091: (Original $17.99; $15 on eBay)D3: HDE BT-168D: ($5 to $8)D4: Harbor Freight Digital ($5) = Micro Center Performance Tools Digital Battery Tester ($7.99)D5: Tenergy Digital Tester T-333 ($12)The Ranking…===========The most versatile analog tester: A2: Gardner Bender GBT-500, any analog tan colored meter that looks like the GBT-500 or any Vintage RadioShack or Micronta 22-03x series; Too bad it doesn’t have a separate scale (and proper loads) for C and D batteries.The second most versatile analog tester: A1: Gemoro Watch Battery Tester and any of its tan colored clones (or the other way around). Just look closely for a separate position for “D” size battery, as most (black and tan clones) don’t have it. Too bad its scale is a little too optimistic as it may show weak batteries as good. This could’ve been the perfect analog tester. And it might still be, but only after I modify all the loads.The most versatile digital tester: D1: ZTS Mini-MBT (expensive but available) or D2: RadioShack Digital 22-091(cheap but rare). Just keep in mind the differences between the two…read the review notes for each. I think having both will and should cover just about 99% of your battery testing needs out there.The good-enough tester: A5: Square Battery Tester. It’s good enough for its price and it rivals its bigger brothers Amprobe BAT-250, BAT-200 and their 1billion+ clones, just in a smaller footprint and cheaper price.The worst value: A4: Gardner Bender GBT-3502 with its next to useless and inaccurate scale, poor ergonomics, poor materials and poor craftsmanship.All others: A6: The Amprobe BAT-250 and BAT-200 are in a bizarre position. They are fine for what they are and much better built than all the clones out there (more expensive, also). But having only two load capacities for 1.5V and 9V, costing significantly more than their clones and suffering from the same shortcomings, they’re hard to recommend. I’ve seen a clone of a BAT-200 on Ebay for $1.49 with free shipping from China. How can you beat that!? Who cares it’s full of burrs and crappy, oxidized contact plates? It’s such a simple and cheap device that few would really care. If I were Amprobe, I’d start working on a BAT-300 model with the same form factor but add variable load for different 1.5V batteries and especially for coin cells, may be even for 3VLi, or better-off for the new and modern 3.6V Li, increase the accuracy of the meter (make the needle go to Full when reading a full battery, not just anywhere in green) but KEEP the price. Then build a BAT-300 Digital.Also, it turns out that all (read: ALL) analog testers have very poor accuracy when gauging multiple batteries (not to mention lack of any kind of % or numbers above the colored scale). They all do a decent job of telling you whether a battery is fairly good or fairly bad, but how good or how bad…no. After a certain point a battery loses charge at a much higher rate, therefore, it may indicate almost 60-70-80% on an analog tester but in fact fail on any digital tester. And practically I agree with the digital tester. The batteries that show, let’s say 60% on the analog tester and show also 60% on the digital tester, then you can believe that those batteries are indeed at 60% capacity. The good thing in the case of the Amprobe tester and the like is that with such high loads, a battery that’s not really healthy (at any level) will really show as such.And with that, overall, I’d wish manufacturers (other than ZTS) would eventually stop blindly copying and milking 50 years old designs, stop manufacturing ‘space-fillers’ (not to call them junk) and come up with their own, improved and modern testers for modern times. How many people realistically still have 6V Photo, 15V or 22.5V batteries around the house? Nowadays there’s a strong shift towards Lithium everything, so why not include testing for those? And if you really want to copy and manufacture that analog tester over and over again, at least put a better, calibrated scale in there with a dampened movement and clear, clean visible markings that look professionally made, not drawn or painted by a 5 year old. Seriously!On to the subjects:ANALOG BATTERY TESTERS=======================A1: Gemoro Watch Battery TesterTech Notes45mA @1.5V (30 Ohm for AA, C)8mA @1.5V (150 Ohm for AAA)95mA @1.5V (15 Ohm for C)230mA @1.5V (6.5 Ohm for D)1mA @1.5V (1.5 kOhm for button cell)8mA @9V (900 Ohm for 9V)ProsTests under variable load for various batteriesNo less than 14 different settings (not necessarily different loads)No battery req. to operateDampened needle, like a true meterBeautiful, legible scale, with white font on red and greenOffset can be adjustedCan use either the Positive or the negative of the battery during testCute, nostalgicConsAll three scales indicate roughly the same thing and are virtually redundant. In order to have accurate readings on the Ni-Cd scale, the separation between ‘Replace’ and ‘Good’ should’ve been shifted to account for voltage difference between a battery and a rechargeable one.Indication is a bit too optimistic. It showed many weak batteries in green (granted at the border of it), but none the less…in green. Problem is, they shouldn’t be in green. Not even in yellow. Yes, I can adjust the offset, but that will translate to the high point as well.Would like a full % scale above the color scale to better judge (and pair) batteries.Test leads ok but wires themselves are v. cheap and have no trace of silicone in them.No diode protection against reversed testingNeed to pick/check the appropriate battery type before measuringLoads are a little bit too conservative. Other testers put too large loads, this one – too small. I could technically change the resistors and have better selection of loads. I could also modify one of lesser used modes, change the resistors and make it measure Lithium primaries, Li-Ion, etc etc. Pull out the scale, re-etch it properly, add percentages, then put a new sticker on top and voila! The most versatile, universal, properly calibrated analog battery tester.A2: Gardner Bender GBT-500ATech Notes145mA @1.5V (10 Ohm for AA, C, D)48mA @1.5V (30 Ohm for AAA and Ni-Cd)1mA @1.5V (1.5 kOhm for button cell)10mA @9V (900 Ohm for 9V)ProsTests under variable load for various batteriesNo battery req. to operateAccurate loads (confirms specs)Offset can be adjustedCute, nostalgicCons9V contacts not as good. Negative post is too recessed and you have to play around with the battery a little to make good contact. The RadioShack one (Digital 22-091) is much, much better in that respect.All three scales indicate the exact same thing and are virtually redundant. In order to have accurate readings on the Ni-Cd scale, the separation between Replace and Good should’ve been shifted to account for voltage difference between a battery and a rechargeable one.Black font on Red and Green scale – hard to read. They seemed to know to use White font on their GBT-3502 but not on this one.Would like a full % scale above the color scale to better assess level in different batteries.Need to pick/check the appropriate battery type before measuringCheapest possible test leads.Not self-contained – leads hanging all the time.A3: Minwa MW-222 Battery TesterTech NotesMinwa made battery chargers and multi-meters forever, so I was happy to see they also have a battery tester. Happy at first, but a little disappointed in the end.170mA @1.5V (8.7 Ohm load for AA & C)75mA @1.5V (19 Ohm load for AAA)290mA @1.5V (5 Ohm load for D)16mA @9V (500 Ohm load for 9V)I can (and probably will) remove the scale, draw and print another one that will show 100% at full deflection and add percentages and more info in the process. Then, I will love it.ProsTests under variable load for various batteriesGood choice of loadsDiode protected for reversed batteries (the only unit)Two scales that are properly shiftedTests 1.5V button cellsNo battery req. to operateDesktop style (could be a Con as well)Clear, bright and easy to read scaleFairly cheap, especially if you can find it with small or no shipping feeConsReading is too optimistic. Also, at 1.5V (or 9V) needle is topped off way beyond the green area.Bulkier than other unitsNo 3V Li coin cells or 3V primary LithiumThe two scales are not identified. One would have to guess that button cell or rechargeable would apply to the lower scaleA4: Gardner Bender GBT-3502Tech Notes45mA @1.5V (31 Ohms for AA, AAA, C, D)10mA @9V (900 Ohms for 9V )1mA @1.5V (1.4 kOhm for Button Cell)@1.2V needle is right between yellow and green. Good to know, but nobody else will know unless they test it with a variable power supply.ProsTests under load (although fixed between 1.5V types)Has room for separate 1.5V button cell testClever design, small form factorSelf-containedNo battery required to operateConsNo variable load between 1.5V battery typesCurrent too small for AA, C, DNo 3V Li coin, or primary Li cellsNot as ergonomic as one might expect (spring is a little too strong)Bouncy-bouncy-bouncy needleAlmost centered scale between Low and Good – very poor accuracy between batteries worn differently and even showing bad batteries as good.Pizza pie scale is buried deep down under a thick, mostly rectangular window…it looks bad and out of place.Low quality, oxidized contact plates and poor contact with battery.Priced too close to the GBT-500A for far less featuresA5: Square Battery TesterTech NotesI call it as such because of its easily recognizable shape and there are a myriad out there, all under different names.53mA @1.5V (27 Ohms for AA, AAA, C, D)13mA @9V (640 Ohms for 9V )//@1.2V needle is right between yellow and green.ProsTests under load (although fixed between 1.5V types)No battery required to operateLight, small, portable form factorMuch better scale than Gardner Bender GBT-3502Self-containedGood for non-techiesConsNo variable load between 1.5V battery types (other than 9V)Load ok for AAA, but too large for button cell and too small for AA, C, DNo separate test point for button cellsNo 3V for coin cells or primary Li batteries.No full scale indication (1.5V is somewhere in the green)A little awkward to use in the beginning.Bouncy-bouncy-bouncy needle.A6: Amprobe BAT-250Tech Notes300mA @1.5V (4.9 Ohms for AA, AAA, C, D; manual specs 375mA over 4 ohm)41mA @9V (212 Ohms for 9V; manual specs 40mA over 215 ohm)For 1.5V batt: @1.1V needle is right between yellow and green. @0.9V needle is in red.For 9V batt: @7.2V needle is right between yellow and green. @6.0V needle is in red.Looking forward to BAT-300 tester that will have a calibrated scale (full scale at 1.5V) and variable load for different batt (can be easily implemented with contacts embedded at different lengths as you move up/down the slider.300+ mA is quite some load for a test (especially for a AAA). And it’s ok, just make sure you keep the test as short as possible (until the needle stops bouncing-bouncing).ProsTests under load (although fixed between 1.5V types)No battery required to operateCradle for battery helps a lot while testingBuilt and assembled nicely (for an inexpensive tool, that is).Separate scales for primary and button cellsSelf-contained unitGood for non-techiesConsNo variable load between 1.5V battery types (other than 9V)No separate test point for 1.5V button cellsNo 3V for coin cells or primary Li batteries.Higher load than typical…good for AA, C, D but not good for AAA and button cellsNot full scale when reading a new batteryBouncy-bouncy-bouncy needleA7: PT W2987Tech Notes330mA @1.5V (4.5 Ohms for AA, AAA, C, D)41mA @9V (208 Ohms for 9V )ProsTests under load (although fixed between 1.5V types)Higher load than typical…good for AA, C, D but not good for AAA and button cellsNo battery required to operateSeparate scales for primary and button cellsSelf-contained unitGood for non-techiesConsNo variable load between 1.5V battery types (other than 9V)No separate test point for 1.5V button cellsNo 3V for coin cells or primary Li batteries.Higher load than typical…good for AA, C, D but not good for AAA and button cellsNot full scale when reading a new batteryBouncy-bouncy-bouncy needleBuilt cheaper than the Amprobe BAT-250A8: Generic Analog Multi-Meter with Battery TestTech Notes95mA @1.5V (13.5 Ohm load) (manual states 115mA)7mA @9V (1.2 kOhm load) (manual states 7.5mA)ProsHundreds of variations, cheap, small and can be used as a real meter not just a battery meterDampened mechanism (unlike the bouncy GBT-500A)110% Full on the batt scale = 1.6V for a brand new battery (although that’s not the case for a brand new 9V batt).ConsIf you think it’s cheaply made on the outside, wait until you look inside…  But hey, it works...A9: (Vintage) Maxell Battery CheckerTech Notes130mA mA @1.5V (13 Ohms for AA, C, D)66mA @1.5V (21 Ohm for AAA and AAAA)130mA @9V (600 Ohms for 9V ); (4.2kOhm for 1.5V button cell)ProsTests under loadNo battery required to operateFull scale at 1.5V; Needle is in yellow at 1.1VFull scale at 9V; needle is in yellow at 6.1VSeparate scales for primary and button cellsThough bulkier than necessary, it is nicely designed with bright white silk screen text, good quality contacts, lays flat on the desk, bright, easy to read scaleMade in Japan :)ConsNo 3V Li coin cell or 3V Li primaryBulky for no good reason (it’s mostly empty on the inside)9V readings tend to be a little too optimistic.DIGITAL BATTERY TESTERS======================D1: ZTS Mini-MBTTech Notes“Microprocessor based patented, high accuracy Pulse Load Test” (from their website)I don’t have a scope to measure the real “pulsing” load being applied to the battery but here are some static measurements, however accurate they are: (DCA and Ohms):155mA @1.5V (9.5 Ohms for AA, C, D, N)321mA @1.3V (4 Ohms for 1.2V NiMH)770mA @3V (4 Ohms for 3V Lithium)717mA @3.6V (5.1 Ohms for 3.6V Li-Ion)40mA @9V (217 Ohms for 9V )ProsSophisticated design with Pulsing load vs. continuous loadDigital Bar Graph readoutCompatible with AAA, AA, C, D, 9V, N and 3V primary Lithium CR123A, CR2 and modern Li-Ion rechargeable (18650 and the like)Easy to use - no switches or settings (other than On button)Auto shut-offNot forgiving at all with weak batteries (also a Con.) Might consider double checking with another tester (or a full DMM).Reversed polarity protectionTest probe nests alongside the testerBeautifully constructed on the insideNicely designed and built with clear markings on the outsideHas custom Neoprene case (not included with the tester)Made in USAConsExpensiveNot as easy to use as others due to the fact that one has to align the positive tip of the battery to the little button contact on the tester. Instead of raised, the contact should’ve been recessed for positive, or - if raised - use it for the negative side of the battery and use the wire with probe to touch the positive side. Much easier.Requires 4xAAA to operate.Have to turn it on before testing. (yeah, it’s a Con. If you forget, you might believe that your battery is simply dead.) The MBT-1 goes into deep sleep and wakes up automatically when testing a battery. Come on ZTS, implement this on all of them.Got bizarre results on some Lithium and Li-Ion cells. Have to test more to find a pattern.9V posts are not physically/visually differentiated and not really suited for 9V battery testing. One must place the battery over the contacts and twist it a little to make good contact. Come on ZTS…Does not test 1.5V button cells or 3V Li coin cells. There’s the much more expensive (and capable) ZTS MBT-1 for that.No rubber feet. It slips too easily off the desk. I added four silicone bumpers and now it’s ‘glued’ to the desk, especially since it’s a little heavier with batteries.Looking forward to the close to perfection Mini-MBT Mk.IID2: (Vintage) Radio Shack Digital 22-091Tech Notes130mA @1.5V (for AA, C, D)44mA @1.5V (for AAA)10mA @9V (for 9V)7 Segments total; Uses 3AAA;@1.50V - 6 segments; @1.53V – full 7 segments. Very good.@1.36V – segments under [Pass] – ok@1.10V – Fail; @1.11 – Pass.@0.50V – Fail; @0.49V – ‘Ready’ (=0V)ProsTests under variable loadTests both 1.5V button cells and 3V coin cellsPass/Fail indicator along the digital bar graphVery well calibrated bar graph (on the high end)Clear, easy to read LCDNo less than 11 separate scales (and loads) for accurate measuring (also a Con)Separate scale for 1.5V Alkalines and 1.2V rechargeablesNicely designed, very well madeLong, retractable and very flexible silicone leadsAuto shut-off and auto power on.Anti-slip padsConsRequires 3xAAA to workNeed to pick/check the appropriate battery type before measuring; not as easy to use as the analog ones with no selectorNot as user friendly for non-tech oriented peopleI wish it wouldn’t display [PASS] at such low voltages. Ideally would say [WEAK].Discrepancies in readings in weak batteries between this tester and the ZTS Mini-MBT. Mini-MBT failed all the weak ones while RadioShack gave me a ‘PASS’ but with only a few bars.D3: HDE BT-168DTech NotesNo load whatsoever.ProsCheapAccepts 1.5V alkaline, button cell and 9VConsNo load testing. Just a voltmeter. Probably can be modded. Did not try it.D4: Harbor Freight Digital = Micro Center Performance Tools Digital Battery TesterTech Notes18 lines totalProsSmall, fast and easy as a Voltmeter.ConsNo load testing. Just a voltmeter.D5: Tenergy Digital Tester T-333Tech NotesBiggest disappointment of all testers. Can’t believe there’s no load testing on this one. Nice looking, sophisticated PCB design, could’ve been the ultimate Digital Battery Tester. There’s no mention of any load on the literature or package and unless I’m having a defective unit, I think it’s no better than the $5 Harbor Freight one, which itself is almost useless as it doesn’t test under load.ProsNicely designedDigital Bar Graph readoutCompatible with AAA, AA, C, D, 9V, Lady N, CR123A, CR2, CR-V3, 2CR5, CR-P2, and coin cell batteriesConsNo load testing. It’s just a Voltmeter.Needs 1xAAA to operateExpensive for what it is (unless proven otherwise).OTHER FLAVORSNew (on Amazon)- ZTS MBT-1 Multi-Battery Tester: Mini-MBT on steroids. El Capo di tutti battery testers. Big as a big book, versatile and likely accurate and repeatable. $100.- Ansmann – There are three version of this one: analog (Model # 4000001 Pocket Size Battery Tester - about $15 but can be found on eBay for $5); a 2nd one is a ‘digital’ with LEDs (Model # 4000042 Energy Check - $17) and a true digital one (model # 4000392 called “Check LCD - Batterietester” on Amazon, priced crazy at $62.78 + $30 shipping). The last one looks very nice and versatile, but it’s probably shipped from Germany, so no go at that price, although looks like it can compete with the MBT-1 in variety of battery types. The LED one looks ok, but it’s bulky and limited in battery variety. The first one is expensive for $15 but ok if you can get it for $5.- La Crosse Technology 911-114 Portable Battery Tester: They make wonderful battery chargers and lots of good weather stations, but in this case 6 people reported it does not test under load. I believe them, therefore I didn’t buy it and can’t recommend it.- Paylak WT-2500 Battery Tester Electronics Watches Button Cell Alkaline Lithium Silver Oxide Photo: similar, identical (other than color) to Gardner Bender GBT-500A- Digital Battery Checker, Dx-900: similar to the $5 Harbor Freight digital one. No load, just a Voltmeter. Bigger and more expensive for no reason.- Velleman BATTEST2 MULTI-PURPOSE BATTERY TESTER WITH LCD DISPLAY: similar to the Tenergy T-333. Expensive for a tester that does not test under load (assumption based on identical design).- Enercell Battery Tester: I don’t know about this one, other than the form factor looks awfully similar to the LaCrosse one. Enercell is a RadioShack brand, and all of RadioShack’s vintage meters test batteries under load. This one though is very expensive for what its capabilities, load or no load.- And there are many-many-many other analog testers that are really clones of one or another design that offer nothing on top of what’s already out there. If you prefer a certain form factor it’s fine, just make sure you’re not paying $25 or $35 for a tester that’s nothing more than a very inaccurate voltmeter.Vintage: (on eBay)- Micronta 22-030A: early model; two jewel movement; lacking 3V Li coin cell option- Micronta 22-031: more rare on ebay, similar to 22-030 but has the 3V coin cell option- Micronta 22-032A- Micronta 22-098: some vintage looking toy for 1.5V and 9V with a poor, small and symmetrical scale- Micronta 22-100A: 1.5V and 9V only (white/gray, battery charger style)- Vintage W.C. Fields Red Nose- Vintage Mallory BT-20 Professional- Vintage Eveready Photo Battery Tester PF-1085- Vintage RCA WT-537A Battery Tester- Vintage Leviton Miniature, AA, AAA, C, D, 9V, 6V Battery Tester- Vintage Compact Battery Checker GRAYMARK 804- Vintage Olson te-237 battery checker- Vintage Chicago Instrument Co. Model 4710 Battery Tester…And many other vintage units that are either very bulky or too expensive and I don’t think they’re worth it other than their collectible value.Good luck.