- Save 20% on ANYCUBIC 1KG PLA 3D Printer Filament White when you purchase 1 or more ANYCUBIC 1KG PLA 3D Printer Filament White offered by Anycubic. Enter code ONW4MR8C at checkout. Here's how (restrictions apply)
- Save 30% on ANYCUBIC 1KG PLA 3D Printer Filament Yellow when you purchase 1 or more Qualifying items offered by Anycubic. Enter code BSMZPVK9 at checkout. Here's how (restrictions apply)
Anycubic Linear Version Unassemble Delta Rostock 3D Printer Kossel Kit Large Print Size with Heatbed and Power Supply
Fulfillment by Amazon (FBA) is a service we offer sellers that lets them store their products in Amazon's fulfillment centers, and we directly pack, ship, and provide customer service for these products. Something we hope you'll especially enjoy: FBA items qualify for FREE Shipping and Amazon Prime.
If you're a seller, Fulfillment by Amazon can help you increase your sales. We invite you to learn more about Fulfillment by Amazon .
|Number of Items||1|
|Specification Met||certified frustration-free|
Specification for this product family (See all products)
|Size||Kossel 3D Printer|
Frequently bought together
Customers who bought this item also bought
Special offers and product promotions
Professional After-sale Support:Any problems if you experience ,please feel free to contact us directly.Including assembling,debugging and operating the pinter ,some download resources are also available
Quality Guarantee:For 3 months after the date of purchase,we take care of all parts of quality-related issues with a replacement
We provide all the potential downloads for Anycubic Kossel 3D Printer ,please kindly contact us for the Firmware and Software
Please download the firmware from here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8VIB533cgdMSVMxNm43aG1OQ0U
Here is the video for assembling: https://www.youtube.com/playlist? list=PLigeDb6eIcGrjdY6AjGRBZLEpSqVgQ10L
Here is video for debugging: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLigeDb6eIcGrIthHl2z4nbPOa-sROljx4
Max Printing Speed:80mm/s ,Recommended Speed:60mm/s
Glass platform size:Dia.200mm ;Thickness:3mm
Print size :φ180mmx300mm
Layer thickness: 0.1-0.3mm ;Recommended thickness:0.2mm
Data input format:G-code,STL
Print the temperature(PLA):190-200°C
Connection Ways: USB/SD
Operating System: XP,Win7,Win10,Mac OS
Printing software: ReplicotorG,Repetier-Host,Printrun
Software language: Chinese/English
Power supply:AC 100-240V
1*3D printer kossel (Linear Guide Version)
1*PLA filament 31g (random color)
1* 200mm MK2Y round heatbed
1*12V 20A regulated power supply
1*SD memory card
1*SD card reader
1*Anycubic 1-Spool Filament Holder
Would you like to tell us about a lower price?
Top customer reviews
The board came with the firmware installed and was able to test print using it. I was easily able to find the firmware on the SD card, and the manufacturers google drive link. Also a couple nice users who left reviews sent me a copy of their firmware just in case. Thank to those guys! I did have to downgrade my Boards in the Arduino program to beable to verify/upload the firmware. Before doing this it gave me the fpos_T error.
Leveling went very well using the circle test print included. I also used the included 20mm cube test print to tune the model print size. Both of these are explained in the booklet included. The default esteps of 96 was spot for me on the 100mm extrusion test. Soon after I was uploading my updated firmware and haven't looked back! My most recent print was the 12 drawer jewelry box, but I have included most of the test prints I did and some larger prints. The larger prints were after I had tuned everything.
I must say this is an amazing printer for the money and I would highly recommend it for your first delta.
Here is a link to my Thingiverse so you can see what else I have printed with my Anycubic Delta!
I recommend following some delta printer calibration videos, as the supllied instructions don't make it exactly clear.
Once up and running it works well, but needs a lot of tuning to get it just right
Main complaint is the ball joints were a bit rusted and it uses a plastic rod glued to them, which I would have preferred metal for sure
Overall, a perfect starter kit at a great price. Also tons of room for upgrades.
Pros: Instructions were very good. Value is excellent
Cons: Main board was defective, a replacement was mailed within 3 weeks. Instructions on leveling and adjustment need to be elaborated. No heating plate included.
Heating plate requires a 20 A PSU making existing one obsolete. Perhaps they should have an optional upgrade?
Adjustments to not apply to this particular Delta design. Effector is mounted on top of support instead of beneath it. When upgrading the magnetic bearing, this will need to be changed to the later.
After about 40 hours of printing I did find a few loose screws, particularly where the rods connect to the effector. I removed all of these and gave each a shot of blue Loctite. I also found that I had not equally tensioned the belts. They should not be guitar string tight, but rather should easily give. If they are too tight they put excessive load on the steppers and the machine may skip steps, ruining the print.
That said, the only failed print I have experienced was when a curious student pulled on one of the belts and briefly stalled a stepper.
If I were using this in a home setting, I probably would not change a thing about the machine, but I have it set up in a harsh school environment, so I am I have been making improvements and modifications.
1) I oriented all of the stepper motors 90 degrees from the orientation shown in the instructions. This moves the wiring harnesses a bit further from the underside of the build plate and allows the ribbon cables to have a cleaner run to the main board.
2) I am searching out a more robust power supply. The existing supply is fine, but I'd like one in a metal case with a cooling fan that I can permanently attach to the frame beneath the build plate, and I would like to have a remote ON/OFF switch mounted on the front panel and run the power cord out the back of the machine.
3) I like the spool holder supplied with the machine, but I am going to build a new one that attaches directly to the side of the machine below the filament stepper. This is just to make the machine more self contained.
The only thing I wish were really different about the machine is that it would be really nice to be able to print from a flash drive instead of the (included) SD card. The control board is basically an overgrown Arduino, so this is probably an easy hack, but I'm not up to it quite.
Original review follows:
This review includes assembly tips and operational notes.
Don't let the complex details of this review put you off. Setup is typical for a DIY CNC machine and you are saving a lot of money on a good machine by assembling and debugging it yourself. In addition to assembling the machine, you will need to unzip and install software, tweak some C++ (Arduino code), and be willing to fuss and fiddle a bit, but that should be part of the fun and you will learn a lot doing it. As a teacher, I would say that this machine is well within the capabilities of the sort of fourteen year old who is good at math and science and is willing to read and do a bit of research to figure things out, but not for the sort that demands instant gratification. For complete beginners at 3d printing, be aware that failed prints and errors are part of the learning curve, even with the most expensive machines.
Notes on Assembly: Anycubic provides tools of adequate quality to complete assembly, however, I'd recommend a good set of miniature metric ball drivers with screwdriver type handles, a pair of hemostats, a small pair of pliers, a small crescent wrench, an Xacto knife, and a pencil and notebook. You will want the notebook to keep track of the changes you make while tuning a calibrating the machine. I'd also suggest a rolls of masking tape and electrical tape, and I used some 1/8" silicone tubing (model airplane fuel line) to create strain relief grommets for some of the wiring.
The instruction booklet is reasonably detailed but does require a bit of interpretation. First snag I had in Steps 1.1 and 1.5 concerned constructing the triangle frames. They suggest firmly attaching the square extrusions to the corner fittings at one end and then slipping the three side assemblies together. I'd recommend leaving all of the screws loose until the entire triangle has been fitted. I used a band clamp to hold the assembly together tightly until I tightened down all the screws, but a wrap of masking tape would do as well.
I found it challenging to get the square insert nuts to engage in the channels of the aluminum extrusions. I solved this by tucking the end of one of the supplied ball drivers into the channel against the side of the insert nut in order to hold it still until the nuts engaged. Note that the aluminum assembly is light weight, You do not need to torque down hard on any of the screws, just get everything snug, maybe a quarter turn past finger tight.
Next issue I had was in Step 5.1, installing the linear slides. Anycubic supplies flange nuts to hold the slides in place. I found it challenging to make sure that the slides remained centered in the extrusion channels and also to keep the spacing between the flange nuts and the slides adequate so I could attach the slides to the extrusions. This is the only place where I departed significantly from the instructions...I cut up a bunch of "donuts" from 1/8" model airplane fuel line and slipped one donut over each of the M3x8 screws before adding the flange nuts to the slides. The donuts acted as spacers to assure that the slides could slide onto the extrusion. They also acted as centering guides to keep the slides centered along the channel. I also altered the spacing of the M3 screws, evenly spacing them along the length of the slides rather than pairing them at the center, and ends of the slides as shown in the instructions.
Do be aware of NOT allowing the bearing blocks to come off the end of the linear slides. Although the slides are shipped with a few extra bearing balls, if the balls fall out of the bearing blocks, putting them back together is a huge pain in the neck.
In Step 4.3, installing the limit switches, the limit switch signal wires run through the center of the extrusions. The extrusions have sharp edges and they could cut through the wires, shorting them out and sending a false homing signal. I cut short lengths (1/2") of surgical tubing and slipped them over the wires and tucked them into the center hole of the extrusions to protect the wires.
One thing I think is missing from the design is that there should be some feet on the bottom of the unit to prevent the limit switch wires from being crushed between the machine and the work table. One of the next printing projects I design will be a set of feet for this printer!
The remainder of the assembly was straightforward. On to tuning and debugging...
Tuning and debugging, Issue with Arduino Version: It is possible to tune the machine mechanically by adjusting the position of the linear sliders and tweaking the limit switch actuators (screws) using the firmware pre-installed on the Trigorilla control board. Be aware that the zero point for the Z axis is intentionally set too high so that you don't crash the print head into the build plate and you can address this by moving the linear sliders down, incrementally, and then tweaking the limit screws.
For more precise printing, you will want to tweak the firmware. Anycubic has posted the information and the software you need to do this on a public google drive space and you will also need to refer to the manual. The URL is in the product description here on Amazon and also is in the instruction manual. You will need WinZip to access most of the files. You will need the Pronterface Slic3r program and the Cura program to run the printer. To tweak the firmware, you will need the Arduino programming environment.
The firmware is an Arduino sketch and the control board is an Arduino Mega variant. Unfortunately, the firmware is not compatible with the latest Arduino version. I found I needed to uninstall version 1.8...of Arduino, and installed version 1.6. This is available on the Anycubic drive space as well.
Tweaking and tuning is a matter of working your way through the instructions in the manual along with the addenda that is posted at the drive space. Some Arduino experience is helpful but the main thing is to be aware that you need to edit the definitions found under the configuration h. tab in the Anycubic firmware sketch.
My machine has been operational now for 24 hours and I have completed 3 successful "production grade" prints. I am still tweaking the bed and Z-Axis offset a bit and I am having an intermittent problem with the display showing garbled characters, but I consider these to be normal teething pains at this point. Compared to my first 3d printer, laser cutter, and CNC router, set up of this machine has been pretty painless.
The only issue I encountered was the firmware installation but after a while everything went great.
Great 3D printer for the money, and huge print area!!!
Most recent customer reviews
Print quality is really excellent !!