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Apples of North America: Exceptional Varieties for Gardeners, Growers, and Cooks Hardcover – September 24, 2013
American Horticulture Society Award Winner
The apple is one of the most iconic fruits, traditionally picked on cool fall days and used in pies, crisps, and ciders. And there is a vast world of varieties that goes beyond the common grocery store offerings of Red Delicious and Granny Smith. With names like American Beauty, Carter’s Blue, and Fallawater, and flavors ranging from sweet to tart, this treasure trove of unique apples is ripe for discovery.
There is no better guide through this tasty world than Tom Burford, whose family has grown apples in the Blue Ridge Mountains since 1715. The book is brimming with beautiful portraits of heirloom and modern apples of merit, each accompanied by distinguishing characteristics and common uses. As the view broadens to the orchard, you will find information on planting, pruning, grafting, and more. The exploration of the apple culminates with an overview of the fruit’s transformative capabilities when pressed, fermented, cooked, or dried. Beyond the polished and predictable grocery store display of Red Delicious and Granny Smith apples, a feast of beautiful and uniquely flavored North American varieties awaits the curious.
- Print length300 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherTimber Press
- Publication dateSeptember 24, 2013
- Dimensions8.38 x 1 x 9.38 inches
- ISBN-101604692499
- ISBN-13978-1604692495
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Editorial Reviews
Review
“The definitive work on our national fruit.” —Peter J. Hatch, The Fruits and Fruit Trees of Monticello
“A lovely, browsable work for apple enthusiasts.” —Library Journal
“The long-awaited masterwork by America's greatest apple expert, Tom Burford, is an invaluable resource for lovers of flavorful and historic apples.” —Los Angeles Times
“A fascinating account of heirloom types.” —Southern Living
From the Back Cover
Tom Burford, fifth-generation apple grower, shines the spotlight on a selection of impressive but often overlooked North American apples. The captivating photographs will transport you from American Beauty to York—and all the sugary, spicy, sprightly apples in between. You’ll learn about varieties brought back from the edge of extinction, the apple Tom calls “the beauty queen of the russet apple world,” and a fruit with skin so deeply red that it earned the name Arkansas Black.
Written with heartfelt enthusiasm, the diverse stories behind these apples are matched only by their range of shapes and colors, textures and flavors. The book goes below the surface too. Whether you are planting a backyard orchard, experimenting with grafting, or considering a batch of apple butter, the information in the orchard primer will get you started. This start-to-finish celebration of the apple is as important as it is lovely.
About the Author
Tom Burford was a horticulturist, orchardist, nurseryman and consultant specializing in restoration, re-creation, and design at historic sites (including Monticello) as well as, backyard and commercial orchards and private estates. He was the author of Apples: A Catalog of International Varieties (1991, 1998) and co-author of The Fruit Grafters Handbook (2001). He co-authored the Brooklyn Botanic Garden book The Best Apples to Buy and Grow (2005).
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
The world of the apple is changing rapidly because food production and the availability of the apple’s life-giving substances are in a state of chaos and unrecognized despair. Yes, this statement is dramatic, but it is real. I am in the misunderstood but enviable position of having experienced a production and richness of the food world that today we are struggling to recapture. I am optimistic, however, that we can again make eating and the ritual of eating a joy for all. This is epitomized by what is happening to the apple.
After this somber assessment, I will tell you of my introduction to the table of delight and plenty. It began on a very hot late August day in 1935 when my mother and grandmother set off with a white oak woven basket designated for apple picking that had been woven by a Native American friend. They headed to the nearby orchard to harvest Smokehouse apples, a nineteenth-century Pennsylvania fruit, so named for growing next to a smokehouse, which ripen over a long period in late summer and early fall and are noted for making caramelized and high-flavored frying apples. On arrival my mother exclaimed they must hurry back to the house with no apples for supper. Ten minutes later I entered the world, barely escaping drawing my first earthly breath in the shade of an apple tree.
That orchard, in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, contained about one hundred varieties and reflected the history of the apple in America. The trees in the orchard included varieties intended for dessert, cooking, cider, drying, applesauce, apple butter, and even livestock food. The apples ripened from June until November and came from storage until the crop was ready the next year.
In these isolated mountains with limited communications one became naïve, unaware that but few had access to the hundreds of varieties readily available that could be grafted, grown, and eaten. I was later to learn that not many people had the necessary skill or inclination to make an apple tree or explore a different variety. It became the classic negative axiom “let someone else do it” and indeed the wrong ones did, destroying the apple culture of America in the process.
For fifty years I painfully watched the disappearance of the apple culture and the emergence of so-called beautiful apples, a source of malnourishment that even posed a consumption risk from chemical contamination. Eating with the eyes of this cosmetically disguised, tasteless object brought exotic fruits, many equally tasteless, to the fruit bowls of America. And the diversity of available varieties dropped to a few dozen. One look at the apple display in a supermarket should bring tears and an exclamation of “what have we done to you?”
The response from apple connoisseurs, some fanatical like I, and organizations like the North American Fruit Explorers (founded in 1965 out of a round-robin correspondence group on uncommon fruits) was to begin distributing lesser-known apple varieties and teach grafting classes. These efforts would launch the unending search, once again, for apples of flavor instead of beauty and market value. Now, varieties that are left are not only retrieved from our rich American heritage, perhaps the greatest apple diversity in the modern world, but science has intervened to provide modern varieties that meet the challenge of the onslaught of pests and diseases that have emerged. The apple is zooming to the forefront as a food commodity in a new American agriculture.
I have presented nearly 200 North American apple varieties in this book, but this is just a handful of the thousands that deserve recognition and adulation. As you explore this world, be aware and understanding that every apple has its moment when it expresses itself at the zenith of flavor. Seldom, however, do we have this sensory experience. Most often, the apple is trying to define itself and will be less sweet or tart or crisp or melting than it holds the potential to be, but it will still satisfy our longing for the apple-taste experience. In the hundreds of apple tastings I have conducted, the same apple variety can bring the countenance of pleasure to one (“the best apple I ever ate”) and distaste to another (“are you sure this isn’t a green persimmon?”). Think of each apple as distinctive and strive to escape the ones that all taste and look the same, as most from the supermarket do. It is an adventure.
This book is intended to be practical instructions, history lessons, folklore, and particularly, inspiration and motivation—not necessarily to grow your own apples, but as an apple consumer to demand what has been denied. Above all, it is to encourage and support others to produce apples in great abundance. Then apples can, once again, be bartered, shared, and bestowed as gifts to nourish the mind, body, and soul: an unending, joyful adventure.
Product details
- Publisher : Timber Press; First Edition (September 24, 2013)
- Language : English
- Hardcover : 300 pages
- ISBN-10 : 1604692499
- ISBN-13 : 978-1604692495
- Item Weight : 2.42 pounds
- Dimensions : 8.38 x 1 x 9.38 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #830,980 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #196 in Tree Gardening
- #308 in Fruit Gardening
- #313 in Fruit Cooking
- Customer Reviews:
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First, know that my prejudice is strong for having had the experience of being with Tom. He's more than a legend. He's a fine and fun person as well as a treasure trove of knowledge and history. This book will give you lots of tastes of that. I got this in part to share with my nine-year-old granddaughter, a budding young orchardist.
This is NOT a beginners' how to manual. It is a wonderful listing of many varieties of apples, with interesting, informative bits about them, good photos and a reminder that there are thousands more.
Another reviewer suggested that this book focuses on varieties for the mid-Atlantic states. Though Tom does talk about his family experiences, he also lists many varieties for the north country and speaks of the importance of location for success with some.
For many other apples and more stories about apple varieties, get Fedco tree catalogues for several years. Fedco offers different varieties each year and the catalogs have lots of info and tales of origin, etc.
Someday there may be technology that allows us to "read" smells and tastes. Let's hope if that ever happens that someone will update this book to allow us to taste all these. Till then I recommend going to apple tastings, visiting orchards that specialize in heirloom apples, taking workshops and any other ways you can to get into the wondrous, magical world of apples. Thank you Tom Burford for sharing some of yours.
No recipes for anything but you do get some tips in the Apple products section in the back. That's one of several sections in the last part of the book telling you about planning and starting your orchard (it also mentions pruning and grafting. Most of that stuff- you'll need/want a better book to really get you going. No sources listed to actually buy anything from.
Two page bibliography, mostly history (there is a cider book by Ben Watson, also mentioned in the text) and three pages of of the apples, "recommended uses of apple varieties", so you can search out Apple sauce, cider or whatever without having to wade through the whole book for apples of a type.
I'd recommend getting at least this book and Rowan Jacobsen's. "Apples of Uncommon Character" as a starting point for apple exploration.
One, this book is an exercise NOT in teaching you and I, but in you and I listening to and admiring somebody revel in his own babble: it's about the self-glorification of Mr. Burford and not about us. He has no interest in teaching us; he is about you and I being servants for his own glorification. (I'm sure we've all come across horrible teachers like that: the arrow points from student to teacher and not vice versa.) Louis XIV would be green with envy . . . or think those silly and pompous judges of the televised National Dog Show on Thanksgiving Day. (I'm sure you don't believe me. I don't care. I'm trying to save you from wasting your hard-earned money.)
Two, a good "how to" book includes everything from A-Z on the subject. (That's why human beings go to school, go to college and read all those textbooks. You and I do NOT know that 1+1 =2 when we slide out of mother's womb, do we?) Mr. Burford assumes AND rudely presumes that we know something already about growing apples. If we did, we wouldn't have a need to buy this book or any, would we? The WHOLE point of a "how to" book is to learn about the subject because we DO NOT know ANYTHING about it. When you have to look up things online with book in hand, then what is the purpose of this book? Why pay a lot of money for incomplete info . . . ESPECIALLY in this Age of Information? That is called a rip off.
I will expand this review later, but this will do for now. Hope you get a GOOD general idea. If you come across a better book on growing apples than this one, buy THAT one . . . and let this silly old peacock squawk all to himself.
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