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Aprilaire 700 Automatic Humidifier
|Price:||& FREE Shipping|
|Item Weight||15 Pounds|
|Item Dimensions LxWxH||16 x 11 x 18 inches|
About this item
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- Has an evaporation capacity of 0.75 gallons per hour—among the highest capacity humidifiers sold
- Humidifies tightly constructed homes up to 4,200 square foot in size
- Features truly automatic control
- Delivers optimum levels of humidity control with the Automatic Digital Humidifier Control. You never have to monitor your settings or wait until you feel uncomfortable
- Provides vital service, temperature and relative humidity indicators in manual mode as well
- Performs quietly with simple annual maintenance
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From the manufacturer
Aprilaire 700 Automatic Humidifier
The Aprilaire 700 Humidifier with Automatic Digital Control never has your air been fresher, cleaner, and more breathable. By adding moisture to your environment, this humidifier can alleviate many irritating symptoms caused by dry, stale air. Built to operate in houses up to 4,200 square feet, this unit can deliver up to 50 more moistures than competitive units. This unit also has an evaporation rate of .75 gallons per hour, one of the highest in the industry. If you suffer from dry skin, have cracked lips and skin or find yourself enduring annoying allergy symptoms, a humidifier is a great addition to your house.
By putting moisture back into the air, the resulting humidity may alleviate many of your symptoms, not to mention creating a healthier environment for kids and pets.
Delivers up to 50% more moisture in comparison to competitive units Has an evaporation capacity of 0.75 gallons per hour, among the highest capacity humidifiers sold Humidifies tightly-constructed homes up to 4,200 square feet in size.
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|Sold By||Direct Supply Store||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||The Best Industries|
|Item Dimensions||16.00 x 11.00 x 18.00 inches||11.30 x 7.00 x 10.50 inches||—||10.50 x 19.50 x 13.50 inches||—|
Top reviews from the United States
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I have a vacation home in rural Northwest Montana where the winters are cold and the heat needs to run in order to keep the house maintained. But, running the heat all winter lowered the humidity in my home to the mid teens and it was starting to have an effect on the house itself with cracked logs, squeaky floors, dry skin, sore throat... I started my research on Amazon for a whole home humidifier and kept getting drawn back to the Aprilaire 700. It had a TON of positive reviews and tons of information about installing it with a NEST as the controller, which was what I was trying to do myself.
I finally convinced myself that this was the unit for me and ordered one, along with everything that I would need for the installation - SharkBite fittings, copper tubing, PEX and although not mandatory, a hot water filter system to remove sediment from my well water before it got to the humidifier.
I am a contractor by trade so installation came easy for me. I simply used the template that came with the unit to outline the hole I needed to cut, leveled it off and then cut it out. I opted to install the humidifier in the supply duct using hot water as I read that this was the best way to increase humidity levels when the unit was operating. The unit fit right into the cutout and secured with 2 rotating locks that hold it against the inside of the duct work. I had a standard outlet right next to my HVAC unit, to all I had to do was plug it in. I did use HVAC tape to seal all the edges around the outside of the humidifier unit as a precaution against escaping warm air but if you make the hole the correct size, you shouldn't have any gap at all.
My plan all along was to use my Gen3 NEST to act as the humidistat and again, thanks to all the reviews, it was a very easy affair to make the connections from the humidifier to the NEST. My HVAC system consists of a heat pump heating system with emergency heat and heat pump cooling as well. I had 8 wires running from the thermostat down to the HVAC unit and I was only using 6 of them, so I had 2 spares. The humidifier only needed one wire from the NEST in order to make it work.
You will see a bunch of reviews that state the need for a transformer and relays... None of that is required. You simply need one wire from your NEST * terminal down to one wire on the humidifier solenoid and the other wire from the solenoid connected to the C terminal on your HVAC low voltage control board. That's it. If your HVAC control board is not clearly labeled, you can test it with a voltmeter to be sure. You are looking for the terminal that supplies +24V when the heat/fan come on.
After making all the electrical connections, I turned to the plumbing. Because I am on a well system, I decided to install a hot water filter between the hot water main leaving the hot water heater and the humidifier. I ordered a KleenWater hot water sediment filter system which worked excellent. I installed a standard shut off valve ahead of the filter and then reduced the filter down to 1/4" copper tubing which then routes over to the humidifier.
The way I have my NEST programmed is to run the humidifier when the heat turns on (more on this later). When the temperature in the house drops, the heat kicks on and the humidifier turns on at the same time. The humidifier works by drawing water into a filter pad which a fan blows on and forces the moist air into the warm supply air of the furnace and then into your home. When the fan/heat turn on, a signal is sent to the humidifier solenoid that opens it up and allows water to flow across the filter pad. Excess water pools into a small catch drain at the bottom of the unit and then runs out the drain tube into a suitable drain or condensate drain.
My first concern with operating the unit was the steady trickle of water flowing out of the drain. For fun, I inserted a needle valve prior to the unit in an attempt to better regulate water flow coming into the unit and thereby reducing the overall waste water flow. What I realized afterwards is that the solenoid has a reducing fitting inside it that regulates the incoming water flow so I am not entirely convinced that the needle valve is needed. In fact, if I pinched down too much on the flow, it wasn't enough pressure to get the water flowing again when the unit started up. By playing with the valve and observing, I was able to achieve a nice balanced situation with incoming water and waste water. (I am on a well system so I don't pay for water, but it did bug me that hot water was just running down the drain). Do keep in mind that there will be waste water no matter what you do. It's the design of the unit to work this way.
With regard to setting up your NEST, you have 2 options. The first is to run the humidifier when the heat kicks on only. This is the most energy efficient setting overall and creates the least amount of water use. The second option is to have your NEST act as the humidistat controller for the unit and set a target humidity level for it to reach. This uses the most amount of water and will humidify your home with or without heat on.
I initially thought I would use the unit in the 2nd mode, but quickly realized that it was just going to run and run and run until it reached a pre-set humidity level. In the end, I opted for the 1st mode instead and simply had the unit kick on when the heat does. Coincidentally, this is the most efficient way to increase the humidity levels in your home. The hot water together with the warm air compound the ability for the humidifier to do its job.
Navigating the NEST menus is pretty straight-forward. You will need to tell it that you are using a humidifier on the * terminal and then set it to work with heat or as a standalone humidifier. Some of those settings are in the "Pro" menus which NEST makes a big deal about, but just take your time and think about what you are doing before you do it.
Overall, I couldn't be happier with the unit. It's quiet and very efficient. On the first night of installation, I had my thermostat set to 68. After the wood burning stove died out, the heat kicked on around 4 AM. Between 4 AM and 6 AM, the relative humidity level in my home went from 20 to a staggering 35 percent prior to the heater reaching 68 degrees and shutting off. In the first week since installation, I have hit 38% humidity levels in my home, but keep in mind that it only humidifies when my heater is running and most of the time I use my wood burning stove to heat the house. If you feel that you need more humidity but no heat, just change the settings in the NEST again and use it like a standard humidistat.
A couple of final notes... If you are going to use your NEST to control the unit, and I don't know why you wouldn't, you don't need to order the Aprilaire with a humidistat. That will save you some $$$.
I am going to run a test next week and capture the water run off in a 5 gallon bucket and measure it over an hours time to see how much is really draining off the unit. If it's 5 gallons an hour or less, I would be OK with those numbers. More to come on that.
Other than that, if you are in the market for a hole home humidifier and are a little bit handy with plumbing and low voltage electrical wiring, installation of this unit is fairly easy and straightforward.
Hopefully this review helps and once again, thank you to all the other reviewers of this product.
After doing some research and a couple times watching this video on youtube([...]) I decided to take the project on myself. It actually was a lot easier than I had expected. Aprilaire's instructions were pretty easy to follow and the automatic digital control gives you a great display in case an error code comes up.
If you are good at following instructions, and have some confidence you can save yourself around $300-$500 on the installation cost I was quoted from 4 different HVAC companies. I was able to complete the project in 3 hours. Another friend of mine installed the same unit in his house and he took just about the same amount of time, he might have been closer to 4 hours. So in 3-4 hours you will be sitting back enjoying the new humidifier.
Things You Will Need To Install Yourself:
* 3/4" PVC pipe (optional, i used it to run the 1/2" tubing into to continue to the drain instead of running the tubing all the way, I split into the same 3/4" coming out of the furnace)
* 1/4" copper tubing to run the hot water into the humidifier
* 1/2" plastic tubing to drain the water
* Sawzall or equivalent tool to cut sheet metal
* Low-Voltage wiring to wire the thermostat and thermometer (i bought 2 of these Coleman Cable 09631 CL2 Bulk Thermostat Cable, 18-Gauge 2-Conductor 50-Feet )
* 2 Electrical - Terminals for the wiring
* Some wiring caps (medium size)
* Foil Tape (I bought 3M 3311-50 Scotch Foil Tape, 2-Inch-by-50-Yard )
* Pipe Cutter (I bought Ridgid 40617 1/4-Inch to 1-1/8-Inch Close Quarters Tubing Cutter )
* Permanent marker
It's been running for over a month now and I was able to notice a difference immediately. I even have a gauge on the second floor that measures humidity and it's constantly has the correct amount of humidity in the house. I'm very happy with this purchase and highly recommend it to anyone in the market.
Top reviews from other countries
We bought a second one for our rental property since it suffered from the same issue with the hardwood floor. The house would also get squeaky stairs in the winter. 48 hours after install, the stairs stopped squeaking. The rental property has its furnace in a tight closet where a convention bypass humidifier would not have fit. Installation was simple, but this time I used the 24v transformer and humidity control supplied with the unit. The controller and humidifier was mounted on the cold air return of the furnace due to the tight space, and supplied the unit with hot water. Again overnight is raised the humidity to the set point of the controller. I did not setup the unit for automatic mode with outdoor sensor as I don't see the point. The outdoor sensor will automatically lower the humidity inside when very cold outside to reduce condensation on windows. However, the entire point of installing the system was to maintain humidity a a constant level during the winter to avoid damage to mouldings and hardwood floors.