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SANUS BF31-B1 31" Speaker Stands for Bookshelf Speakers up to 20 lbs - Black - Set of 2

4.2 out of 5 stars 482 customer reviews
| 42 answered questions

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  • Energy-absorbing MDF construction increases sound quality by providing acoustic isolation
  • Conceal unsightly cables using the built-in wire path for a clean and organized look
  • Included pads create a non-slip surface and superior sound
  • Includes removable carpet spikes for improved stability on soft, carpeted surfaces
  • Assembly hardware included
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Frequently Bought Together

  • SANUS BF31-B1 31" Speaker Stands for Bookshelf Speakers up to 20 lbs - Black - Set of 2
  • +
  • AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet
  • +
  • Monoprice 109436 Copper Speaker Banana Plugs Closed Screw Type (5-Pair)
Total price: $66.98
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Technical Details

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Product Description

The SANUS Basic Series BF31 is a 31-inch black speaker stand for small bookshelf speakers up to 20 lbs. A solid, energy-absorbing MDF pillar supports a 5-inch by 5-inch top plate with neoprene speaker isolation pads for superior acoustic quality. ABS push-in carpet spikes add stability, and a built-in concealed wire path hides speaker cables for a clean and organized appearance in any room. This product is sold as a pair.


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Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

Verified Purchase
FYI here are some product details not specified on Amazon's description. I did not realize these are only designed for smaller bookshelf speakers. Up to 15 lbs. The 24" stand has a 7.5" by 7.5" speaker base so it can handle a bigger speaker. I really needed the bigger base.

Model # BF31b

Package Dimensions

Black W = 30"

D = 10"

H = 3"

Product Dimensions

W = 11.5"

D = 11"

H = 31"

31" tall with 5"x5" top plate for small bookshelf speakers
9 Comments 245 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you? Yes No Sending feedback...
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They serve the purpose and look nice, but both the ad copy and the instructions may be misleading enough to invite comment.

1. They're not wood. They're some quite unobjectionable black stuff that may be better suited than wood. Sanus makes more expensive stands out of wood, but not these.

2. The "wire management" system, if implemented as suggested, is idiotic. There are holes but no grooves in both the base and the speaker platform. If you stick the wires through them, then both the speaker and the whole stand will wobble on the wires.

Fortunately, there is no need to do so. Just leave spaces at the top and bottom of the back and run the wires through there.

3. Even worse, they tell you to set the speaker on the stand, wire it up, and then complete the assembly by snapping the back on, which takes some force. Even if you are much less clumsy than I, this would be tempting fate.

Again, fortunately, there is no need to. Stick the wire through and put on the back, in whichever order you prefer, and then put the speaker on and connect it.
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Regarding the stands themselves, they are just right for getting bookshelf sized speakers off your bookshelf and down to seated ear level. Nothing larger than bookshelf speakers though, as the speaker base isn't much larger than an adult's hand.

Now for the important stuff. These stands are constructed entirely of MDF so they are fragile when it comes to screws and fasteners. I had a problem with my order and it didn't ship correctly and while I was waiting for my reorder I visited my local high end audio shop. Coincidentally, one of the techs was assembling a set of these for a display and it took him about 10 minutes with an electric screwdriver. When he was done, I picked one up to examine it and he had cracked every one of the vertical boards with the screws...just like many reviewers had mentioned. Now I've seen the problem and just have to figure out how to avoid it myself when my set arrives.

Here is how I assembled them with NO issues:

1. I "borrowed" one of the horrible smelling candles that this house of women that I live in has in every room. I used wax from the bottom of the candle to "lube" the screw threads. Replaced candle...no one the wiser - HA! Grabbed regular old fashioned turn with hand and wrist screwdriver from toolbox. A woodworking friend of mine says he uses soap to lube screws before driving them...just in case your home is poisonous smelling candle free.

2. Now you're ready...If you are going to insert the plastic "points" that go in the speaker base to stabilize it on carpet do this first. Lay the base upside down on a hard surface and gently tap the points in with a small hammer or plastic mallet. Keep them straight when you do this so you don't split the MDF. Wax wouldn't stick to these so I don't think it would help.
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By Darren Ghiso on September 20, 2005
I wasn't expecting much for $30 but these were exactly what I was looking for. A nice looking 3 foot stand for my bookshelf speakers. It gives a very impressive look to your home audio system and really improves the treble as opposed to having your speakers on the floor. Great quality...definitely something to consider.
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This pair of stands will be adequate for my needs, but if my budget allowed it I would go for something higher end. Some brief points (most of which have already been mentioned by other reviewers):

Assembly was very easy, BUT like some others, I did manage to split one of the uprights even though I was being extremely cautious and used only a hand held screwdriver. Either the hole was drilled too close to the edge or I inadvertently drove the screw in at an angle. It happened in only one spot, so I will just use a black magic marker to make it less noticeable. It isn't bad enough to affect the stability.

The material is not wood. "Wood product" might be a better description. They're painted black anyway, so I don't have a problem with the material, but I would appreciate a more accurate manufacturer's description.

There is a gap where the uprights meet at the front of the stands. It is a concern for me only because my speaker cable is white, so I will probably fasten it to the inside with a length of tape so it is less noticeable.

The hole in the bottom plate is plenty large enough to run probably any gauge cable, but the hole on the top plate is much smaller. If I were using the top hole I would either strip back enough of the sheathing to run only the conductors through the hole individually or I would drill the hole out to be a little larger. BUT, unless your speakers have thick pads on the bottom they will likely rest on the wire if you use the hole so I will probably just run the cable on the outside of the top plate. Clearance on the bottom is not a problem if you use the carpet spikes.

The top plate is small (5" X 5"), but I don't see any problems with stability. My speakers weigh 10 lbs apiece and have a 6.5" X 8.
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