BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile
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- Brand New and High quality. Portable 3.5
- Wide view angle, low illumination. D/N models with photo-sensor. Distance reference marking display. Easy installation.
- Screen Size: 3.5 inch. Ratio: 4:3 TFT screen. Power Supply: DC 12V.
- Visible Area: 72mm x 53mm. Power Consumption: 2W. Operating Temperature: 0°C ~ +80°C. Storage Temperature: -10°C ~ +80°C.
- Video: 2-channel video input. Dimensions: 93 x 80 x 20mm (LxWxH).
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- Size (LWH): 8 inches, 4 inches, 1.6 inches
- Weight: 8.8 ounces
Brand New and High quality.
Portable 3.5" Mini TFT LCD.
PAL/NTSC automatic switch.
High resolution cameras.
Wide view angle, low illumination.
D/N models with photo-sensor.
Distance reference marking display.
Screen Size: 3.5 inch.
Power Supply: DC 12V.
Visible Area: 72mm x 53mm.
Power Consumption: 2W.
Operating Temperature: 0°C ~ +80°C.
Storage Temperature: -10°C ~ +80°C.
Video: 2-channel video input.
Dimensions: 93 x 80 x 20mm (LxWxH).
1 x 3.5" TFT LCD Rear View Color Camera
1 x DC Cable
Top Customer Reviews
Yellow: AV 1 - the primary video input line, connect this to your Pi's RCA video line.
White: AV 2 - a secondary video input line.
Be aware that you may need to tell your Pi to use composite video, since it may attempt to default to HDMI, which means if you have it hooked up to this and not an HDMI monitor, it will display on the monitor instead of this.
First of all, in describing it, the screen size that you will get out of the box is about the size of a PalmPilot's (close to 3.5"), and it will come with a flexible arm and mini-stand attached to it that you can adjust however you like, with a sticker underneath in case you want to mount it to anything. In short, it is really a baby LCD flat panel.
On the back are three buttons: Menu, +, and -. There is no menu--simply press the buttons to alternate between Brightness, Contrast, and "Colorast" (or how much color you want--0 is grayscale), and finally OK or Reset. With that said, settings are very simple to configure on it.
Now, we get to the last (and fun) part. You can splice two cords together to get power if you wish, but I simply connected a 1.0 A (1000 mA), 12 V (and under 4 W) power adapter, which works efficiently well. I'm mentioning this to be helpful in case anyone else wants to connect this to their favorite little computer using an easier method. :) You can easily connect any spare yellow RCA video cable, and the picture is surprisingly clear! To get specific, with good enough eyes, you can read 12 pt text in Sans or Monospace (though anything lower becomes harder to read--although I can still read size 10) and this monitor drives a 656x416 resolution according to xrandr (a little bit under 640x480). This is with overscan on (which means the screen puts an artifical box around the screen so it fits better) and I recommend you turn this on. Without it, maximized windows will exceed the screen space, making things a bit monotonous. Now, without overscan, it does about 712 instead of 656 if I remember right. This is totally up to you. Also, I find tilting it up a bit on a desk, and sitting closer to it helps make the experience a bit better.
And so far... all my shells show up clearly, and everything seems to be working fine. There's barely any flicker I can see with my configuration, and it displays nicely. With all this said, that is the story thus far with this screen connected to a Raspberry Pi as a monitor, and I hope others find this helpful when setting it up. :)
The packaging was pretty straightforward, with the screen inside the box. If using for it's intended purpose, this should easily hook up to an RCA cable. For my needs, I ripped it apart and just used the LCD screen and controller board.
To make this work with the Raspberry Pi and Gameboy Zero, no modifications in terms of voltage were needed. This shoots 5V right out of the box, no issues!
To get a setup where one image pixel is approximately one screen pixel, I edited the following settings into /boot/config.txt:
Things are still fuzzy, since the pixels don't line up exactly, but at least text is clearly visible, and the image occupies roughly 100% of the screen area.
I removed the voltage regulator chip by snipping the legs off with some flush cut pliers and soldering a small wire between the voltage input pad & the regulator's output pin2 on the board because I was going to directly power it with 5v. Some guides suggest this is unnecessary but I noticed that leaving the regulator in place was dropping the input 5v down to 4.7v & causing screen flicker.
Works great, nice sharp picture with no flicker. It will run just fine without the input button board connected, so if you don't have a place for it don't worry about leaving it out. I peeled off the controller board & was hoping to reposition it but the flat ribbon cable is very finicky, if it isn't folded & bent at the correct angle you will get odd colors and flicker in the screen so I would suggest leaving it attached as is.