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Before and After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy, and Well-Behaved Dog Hardcover – April 29, 2004
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How to raise the perfect puppy
A revolution for dogs: Very few dog trainers have not been influenced by Dr. Ian Dunbar’s dog-friendly philosophy. In the 1970s, Dr. Ian Dunbar sparked a dramatic shift in puppy training ― away from leash corrections and drill-sergeant adult dog training classes based on competitive obedience and toward a positive approach using toys, treats, and games as rewards for teaching basic manners, preventing behavior problems, and modifying temperament. Before Dr. Dunbar there were no classes for puppy training, very few family dog classes, and not much fun in dog training. His positive approach revolutionized the dog training field, especially puppy training.
Raising a great dog: Now, in Before and After Getting Your Puppy, Dr. Ian Dunbar combines his two popular puppy training manuals into one indexed, value-priced hardcover dog training book. In clear steps, with helpful photos and easy-to-follow puppy training milestones, he presents a structured yet playful and humorous plan for raising a wonderful dog. Dr. Dunbar’s guide is based around six developmental milestones:
- Your doggy education
- Evaluating puppy’s progress
- Errorless housetraining and chewtoy-training
- Socialization with People
- Learning bite inhibition
- The world at large
Fans of The Art of Raising a Puppy, Training the Best Dog Ever, or Zak George’s Dog Training Revolution, will love Ian Dunbar’s Before and After Getting Your Puppy.
- Print length224 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherNew World Library
- Publication dateApril 29, 2004
- Dimensions6.36 x 0.81 x 9.28 inches
- ISBN-101577314557
- ISBN-13978-1577314554
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About the Author
Product details
- Publisher : New World Library; First Printing edition (April 29, 2004)
- Language : English
- Hardcover : 224 pages
- ISBN-10 : 1577314557
- ISBN-13 : 978-1577314554
- Item Weight : 1.05 pounds
- Dimensions : 6.36 x 0.81 x 9.28 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #34,339 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #60 in Dog Training (Books)
- Customer Reviews:
About the author

Consulting Editor Ian Dunbar, Ph.D., MRCVS, is the founder and an ongoing member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Consulting Editor Pamela Leis Higdon, an aviculturist of long standing, was an associate editor for Bird Talk magazine and the first managing editor of Birds USA.
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From my perspective, the book not only makes sense about how to raise a puppy, but also about how to raise a child! Why waste time trying to teach kids or dogs what is wrong, until they eventually figure out what is right? That seems really inefficient, now that I know the "lure-reward" technique. This technique lets you use the essential nature of the dog to train it to do what you want it to do: pee, chew, and poop where you want it to, for instance. Walk calmly on leash, for another. The trick is to not fall into the trap of thinking that a few weeks of short and long-term confinement is somehow cruel to the dog. Like children, dogs respond quickly to a consistent routine. It DOES require YOU to be consistent and to have discipline, and I definitely figured out where I was being lazy and too lax, and whenever I went back to the tighter crate schedule, things improved immediately. I realized that I confused a few days of successful potty events with "success" in overall training and went from confinement to total lack of restraint, so I referred to the book again and made some corrections.
Here are a couple of tips that helped make this book so useful for me. First, I had a consultation with a pet dog trainer who knew about (and recommended) Dunbar's technique. This really helped me when addressing the issues that I felt were not explained in the book (more on that later). Secondly, while I took Dunbar's stern advice as the kind of advice someone gives to people who might not pay attention...that is, I didn't take him quite so seriously. So, when he says that your dog needs to meet over 100 people in his first month (or whatever), I took that as the general message: socialize your dog as much as you possibly can. We have a really small house and we aren't hugely social, but I was surprised to find that I could make a list of 100 people pretty easily. They haven't all been over to my house, but I've been out and about and exposed my pup to a lot of different people, and I could see the change in about 2 weeks! And, I realized too that this socialization has to continue through adolescence, the difficult stage (again, think of children). I also found that "training" your dog to be OK when you are not around was particularly practical and helpful. It not only reduced my dog's anxiety, but mine as well, since it gave me a method to work with the dog to gradually introduce him to "alone" time, which will definitely be a part of his life. It also helped me to be aware of where I might be inadvertently feeding into the dog's anxious attitude when I returned home (or got him out of his crate).
The sit, lay down trick is a snap and I even successfully tried it on an adult pitbull that wouldn't lay down for its owner!
What I also found interesting was that the tips I learned in the book and shared with my other dog-owning friends helped them when it came to their adult dogs! I think that the Cesar Milan method can be quite effective, but it is based solely on dominance, and the lure-reward method can work wonderfully too in many situations (such as getting your dog to be calm when going on leash and learning to happily sit when greeting people).
Now, for some things that come to mind that I found lacking in the book. First, I happen to have a toy poodle who is bizarrely un-food motivated, and Dunbar doesn't mention that at all. I did learn from other poodle owners that this breed isn't the most food motivated one. I wish he would cover that situation in the book. So, for instance, Dunbar recommends putting all of the dog's kibble in Kong toys, yet if I put all of Buck's food in his bowl, he *still* wouldn't eat even half of it. So, if the open dish doesn't work, the Kong toy is like locking it away! And, freeze dried liver didn't work for Buck either. Advice: get those beef jerky sticks for dogs. Or try cheese. And strangely: Wheat Thins (even my cat loves them). Small bits of hot dog too. (I use this for the poop reward). Even so, all of these favorite items stuffed into a Kong toy won't work for my dog. Maybe when he gets a little older/bigger and I can try it out again, but for now I'm mystified about turning him into a chew-toy-aholic.
Secondly, I would have appreciated more information on the puppy interaction when you have a really small dog, or a really large dog. I think the problems you encounter as a dog owner do vary when you have a "non-average" sized breed. How do you keep your little dog from being completely frightened of huge dogs (and then later turning into one of those yappy jerks)? How do you keep your rambunctious, lovey Great Dane from bowling over the chihuaha? And, when you do finally take your dog to the dog park, how can you as an owner to a better job of evaluating other dogs as potential problems? Most people don't even bother to socialize their dogs, so how do you evaluate?
Finally, while I initially started asking people to offer a treat to my dog to get him to sit, I quickly learned that most every person will use a different visual method in asking the dog to sit, while only using the word "sit." So, it's really too onerous in my opinion to try to get every person to get the dog to sit, since the lure/reward technique of holding the treat over the head works, but most people don't know the signal! So, my dog dances on its hind legs while people say "sit!" and give it the treat because he's so cute. This pretty much has de-sensitized "sit" as a keyword so I quickly dropped the idea of asking people to make him "sit." What *does* work is asking people to offer the dog a treat, since then they naturally great the dog with a lowered hand, palm up, which is far less threatening to the dog and not a dominance display. I am really not going to burden every human social interaction with an instruction on the sit technique that is required. Later, when the dog learns the word itself, maybe then. I feel that in this respect, Dunbar's advice is a bit impractical.
Overall, I am very glad that I bought this book, and it's been an essential tool in my working with my puppy and understanding the nature of dogs.
My only gripe with this book is that it is HIGHLY repetitive - but I'm guessing that is by design. Dunbar is all about socialization, socialization, socialization. He sets up a schedule for how many people - especially children and men - your pup needs to meet, and he wants your pup to meet 100 people by the time s/he is 3 months old.
The thinking is that is you want an adult dog who is not going to bite when they get startled or have a vet poking and prodding them, and who wants to be hugged and snuggled and well-behaved when meeting people, that training needs to start when your pup is very young, like 8 weeks old.
We threw puppy parties and invited nearly everyone we knew to come over, pick him up, hold him, give him snacks.
So, yes, this book is repetitive. But I give it 5 stars because following it means you're more likely to have a 5-star dog companion.
Basically, Dunbar's method can be reduced to two key points:
1) Positivity: rather than endlessly punishing your dog for the 1001 ways he can do something wrong, show him the one way you want him to do it right. Don't want your puppy to pee on floor or jump up when you come home? Then don't keep hitting him and screaming "No, bad dog!", SHOW him where you want him to toilet and how you want him to greet you, and reward him when he gets it right.
2) Consistency: let your dog know right from the first day what you want from him and be consistent in rewarding and punishing behaviour. Excusing or condoning "mistakes" in puppyhood simply indicates to the dog that this behaviour is accceptable, and ends up confusing the dog later when you punish him for doing something you (by default) have trained him to do.
The book is split into chapters that each cover an essential theme. After an introduction, the earlier chapters cover issues to consider before getting a puppy: selecting a breeder, what to look for in a puppy, which breed is more suitable, what you need to buy, how to prepare your house, and so on. Chapters 5-8 cover important development goals and deadlines for your new puppy; Chewtoy and House Training, Socialisation, Bite Inhibition, and The World At Large (walking, park playing, new encounters, etc). In each chapter, Dunbar goes into detail not only about what to do, but HOW to do it, providing specific practical examples as well as highlighting common pitfalls and mistakes many dog owners make.
One criticism I notice in the reviews here is that Dunbar's fairly rigid deadline approach ("If your puppy can't do X,Y,Z by twelve weeks he's well behind") could scare or intimidate new owners. I think the reason he does this is given in his explanation of rewarding dogs with treats. He notes that people often ignore him if he says to reward a dog with a treat, but if he specifically tells them to reward the dog with THREE treats, people will pay attention and carefully count out each one. Likewise, I think Dunbar feels that if he says "You should socialise your dog as soon as possible", people will let the socialisation lapse, whereas "Your dog must meet 100 people by 12 weeks" shakes the owner into action. Clearly, Dunbar isn't saying your dog will be a hopeless case if he has only met 99 people in 12 weeks, but he is making it clear that socialisation and training is critically important, and is best accomplished as quickly as possible.
In all, I found this an enjoyable and informative book, and it has certainly provided us with a healthy, happy, and well-behaved dog! Recommended, four stars.
Top reviews from other countries
BUT some of the reviews on here that have low stars are right in that the book can be a bit too serious, but we stuck to the basic principles and we have been delighted with the progress.
When the author says DO NOT LET YOUR DOG WEE INSIDE AS THIS IS A DISASTER! we read it more as, try to avoid accidents and if you have one, be a bit stricter. And it worked a treat.
We definitely didn’t do 100 introductions in tHe first month, but we did introduce to as many people as possible (probably about 30/40) and had trips to the pub etc and it has made a huge difference on our pup’s nature.
His techniques and principles for sleep training, house training, bite training are all fantastic, just don’t let him worry you; a few mistakes here and there aren’t the end of the world. Just stick with the principles, be straight, stick to your rota and you’ll have a lovely natured pup in no time.
Well worth a read for any new puppy owner.
More importantly, the tone of the book is quite bizarre: while you might reasonably assume that someone buying a book about getting a puppy is acting with the best intentions and is interested in their puppy's welfare, Ian Dunbar seems to assume no such thing and from the very beginning spends a lot of time barracking the reader with sarcasm and patronising language (at one point he literally uses "Duh?!" to make a point).
An example of his writing:
"Puppy owners are often surprised when their new puppy bites, barks, chews, digs and decorates the floors with urine and feces. Yet this is what dogs do. How did you expect your dog to speak? To moo? To meow? And what did you expect your dog to do to pass the time of day? Housework? To mop and clean floors and dust the furniture? Or to amuse herself reading books, watching television, or doing macramé?"
There are plenty of other books that have a much more positive approach (despite this book's title) and get straight to the point without drowning you in nonsense like this. Avoid this one like the plague.











