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Better Bouldering, 2nd (How To Climb Series) Paperback – November 8, 2011
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From the Back Cover
Among the guest contributors for this new edition are top boulderers Paul Robinson, the 2008 ABS national champion, writing on gyms and competitions; Angie Payne, the first American female to climb V13, who shares a woman’s perspective on bouldering; and Dave MacLeod,Scottish ubertrad leader, exercise physiologist, and V13 boulderer, imparting his take on bouldering-specific training. More than 300 new color photos taken at the most popular bouldering locales in the world—including Bishop, Hueco Tanks, Rocklands, and Fontainebleau—clearly and dramatically demonstrate the concepts explained in the always entertaining text.
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The real meat of this book is some great information though. From what I've found most of the info on climbing techniques in this book can also be scraped off of YouTube - but you never know if the person in the video actually knows what they're talking about or not, and I can tell you them are misleading or blatantly wrong. After watching a ton of technique videos and then reading this book it really helped me understand some of the theory. One of the things I didn't notice until reading this book is the amount of information about climbing safety that's nearly impossible to find on YouTube. There's also some good info on making smart gear choices that might save you money, make you safer and help your climbing.
It's worth the money, even if you end up buying it at REI for double the Amazon price. This book has helped me overcome my knowledge limitations so the only thing standing in front of achieving V7s are my own physical limits.
I'm glad to report this book is pretty free of these maladies, and is made of a great combination of stories, tips, strategies and approaches to all things boulder, with something for the newbies that you can still enjoy reading as an intermediate or advanced climber, and things for the advanced climber looking for that extra edge.
Put all of this together in Verms' obvious style, and you get an enjoyable, useful, fun book, that I feel can help you get better at bouldering, and more importantly - psyched to go bouldering.