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Bias Cut Blueprints: a Geometric Method for Clothing Design and Construction Paperback – June 15, 2014
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About the Author
Julianne Bramson and Susan Lenahan are Co-Owners of Fashion in Harmony, an independent pattern company in the San Francisco Bay Area specializing in designs utilizing the amazing bias cut. Julianne Bramson, who holds a Bachelor of Arts Degree in Home Economics, creates distinctive designs based on the bias cut. Her unique method of creating bias cut garments puts the majority of the seams on the straight-of-grain, while the garment hangs on the true bias. Julianne has written several articles for Threads Magazine and teaches about bias-cut garment design all over the country. Susan Lenahan, who holds a Bachelor of Science in Business Administration, writes the instruction sheets for Fashion in Harmony patterns. She uses her years of sewing and fitting experience and skills to assist students in getting the best fitting bias-cut garment possible. You may see photos of their work and reach them both through the company website: www.fashioninharmony.com.
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That being said, the fundamental concept is brilliant. It is worth it for the one trick that the authors so capably explain. But the methodology got stretched thin to create an entire book.
But this book... Oh my word! It is WONDERFUL! As a historian, I'd long appreciated the beauty of bias-cut garments. But I am not a professional seamstress, and I was always under the impression that bias-cut garments were difficult to sew. So although I wanted to wear these beautiful dresses, I never attempted to make any because sewing on the bias intimidated me.
And they are intimidating... at least, they are the way we try to sew them -- cutting on the bias and sewing bias seam to bias seam. Madeleine Vionnet didn't do anything so complicated. She cut on the straight and sewed on the straight but turned her garments 45° so they hung on the bias. How we sew bias clothing now is the same as how we sew straight-cut garments. We just turn the pattern 45°. But this makes cutting complicated and error-ridden and sewing a complete pain in the arse. In the vernacular of today: ur doin it wrong!
What Vionnet did was so simple, so basic that it was revolutionary. Yet strangely, 75 years after her salon closed its doors, we have forgotten this simplicity. This elegance has completely passed from our lives. Yet we long to have it back.
The look of bias-cut garments is extraordinary. They cling without showing your bulges. They float and swirl around your body and yet have weight. They are somehow magical. No one wearing a bias-cut garment could help but be charmed by the way it feels. And no one observing a bias-cut garment could resist its poise and elegance.
And thanks to Julianne Bramson and Susan Lenahan, we ALL can have bias-cut garments in our wardrobes today!
Get this book! You will not regret it.
I own the english copy of Madeline Vionnet's glorious book and was delighted to find so many references to Vionnet and her techniques.
The book covers an explanation of bias, constructing bias tubes and how to determine the yardage for such, has beginning patterns and exercises, graduates to more complex designs, gives variations on the patterns, and my personal favorite, covers FITTING of the this very different way of construction. I am in love with this book, and am uber glad I discovered it before it went out of print. If you are interested in learning bias construction look no further, find a copy of this book. My only frustration with bias sewing is how the hems flair a bit. I will be hoping to come up with a way to keep hems a little more tame. If anyone has the answer, I am all ears.
It is also an excellent resource on bias. Even if you are a conventional seamstress, I've not seen a book which covers what bias is, how it is made, how to sew it and how to hem, and finish neck and armholes. - I was surprised how flattering the bias dress was when I wore it. I can't wait to make other garments from the book.
It is a great deal as it has templates in the book for different sleeves, and necklines for dresses, tops and tunics. There are many lovely skirts as well. The best part? The garments don't take much fabric because of the unique way they are cut.
Buy the book! It is a great addition to your sewing library.