Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand
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- Best Bicycle Repair Stand
- Rotating Clamp allows to clamp on top tube or seatpost
- Body: Full Alloy Aluminum
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CHOKING HAZARD -- Small parts. Not for children under 3 yrs.
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You need a bike repair stand to take care of swapping tires ,lubing a chain, adjusting the derailleurs, or building a new bike. The bike stand must be good looking, heavy duty, light, foldable, portable, adjustable and good value. Bikehand Bike repair stand is one of the best available choices.
Very strong and light construction
The oversized aluminum tubes make the stand very light also strong. The special treated plastic parts would not be weaker during cold days.
Patented 360 degree rotating clamp
This allows the bike sitting at any angle by clamping on the frame tubes or seatpost. And it is very easy to rotate the clamp by turning the handle. It is also very stiff after locking.
The wide range height adjustment allows you to work at very comfortale position.
Magnetic tool plate
Magnetic tool plate is also included in this deal. It makes the tools very handy.
Clamp on seatpost
It is better to clamp on seatpost for your carbon bikes in order to avoid damaging the carbon frame.
Foldable and portable
It is very easy to fold the legs and head by quick release & lock handle. This features space saving while not in use.
Clamp and height adjust range
Patented clamp accepts the tube in shape thickness from1 inch to 2.4 inch and width from 1 inch to 2.55 inch tubes.The height adjustment rage is 39" to 59".
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No assembly required. It comes out of the box ready to use.
It does everything I need it to, except hold the front wheel straight. You can put the bike at any angle, but you may have to move it back and forth in clamp jaws to maintain good balance/stability.
It is very compact when folded.
The tool tray is very handy.
The controls are easy to operate and seem durable.
The clamping jaws are very nicely done. They don't pinch my brake cable, and should accommodate any shape.
It is not best for heavy bikes. Though the feet give decent stability, hitting the brakes on a spinning fat-boy would probably tip it.
You need a cross bar. Though I can put my wife's step-through on it using the seat tube, it's pretty unwieldy.
My least favorite feature is the clamp jaw rotation lock(see photos). My misgivings are probably misplaced though. The surface area and tooth size of the interlocking gears is such that it will never slip. It's just that it's plastic. The mechanism used to lock it is quite good and should keep the teeth meshed reliably, but the plastic will wear and the lash that is inherent in this design will only grow. I wish they were metal and I wish the clamping mechanism pressure could be tightened.
On the plus side, the gear tooth arrangement is positive locking, shouldn't slip under normal use, and provides very fine angle selection.
If you are a home mechanic and need a repair/tuning stand for reasonable money, this is a good choice.
[update] Having used it a while now, I like quite a lot and have raised to a 4-star. I initially wanted it to be more rigid but after using a while I have become more confident in it. Still not wild about interlocking nylon gears but cost/benefit is key and so far the the locking system is just fine and this remains a good value.
[update 2: or "D'oh!"] I have accidentally noticed that I can bind the seatpost while setting the height to keep the front wheel on the ground. This keeps the steering centered while creating a new three-point stability that is very nice to work on. It elevates the drive train for cleaning, adjusting and lubrication. The change in overall stability is remarkable. See latest picture.
A few notes to address issues people have mentioned:
* All clamps with bolts have quick-release handles. You can tighten the bolt on the opposing side to make each connection as firm as you want. Unless a plastic collar is physically broken, the stand will never change position or slide. The plastic appears to be a nylon composite. It's as sturdy as any I've seen, though does flex and creak a bit more than steel.
* The rotation mechanism of the main clamp has very tight tolerances, but doesn't always arrive perfectly configured. If there's a gap between the teeth when tightened, remove the hex screw holding the flip handle, slide the handle off, and then tighten the hex screw beneath it until the teeth mesh firmly. Don't overshoot or you'll prevent rotation when the handle is loose.
* The main clamp doesn't have quite enough cam travel. You have to loosen the cam lever, hold the bike in place, engage the cam, and then spin the lever to the tighten the clamp. This is why I've docked a star. Mounting heavier bikes can be awkward. Better to attach the clamp when the bike is on the ground, then lift and rotate it into its final position.
* The two-leg design is space-efficient. It's also stable if you don't try to defeat physics. Mounting a heavy rig offset is a strain for any portable stand. You can mount by the seatpost, seat tube, top tube, or bottom tube. Pick whichever fits your bike and the adjustments you're trying to do. I do drivetrain maintenance with the stand clamped to my bike's seatpost; I just rotate the front end down so the weight is vertically centered. Shake is minimal and it puts less strain on the bike.
If I were using the stand constantly and didn't need portability, I'd spring for a Park bench-mounted arm. Otherwise, I'm not convinced the other portable stands have much more to offer than this one.
It seems like a simple fix to replace them both instead of sending the whole thing back. The drawback may be that I would not be able to use the original tightening handle anymore because the propietary bolt has a ball on top to make the handle fit. An update will follow.