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Birchwood Casey PSP Gun Blue (3 Ounce)
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- MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING
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Birchwood Casey offers you the best ways to touch up scratches and worn spots or even completely reblue most guns. It will give a non-streaky, even blue-black finish to steel (except stainless). Both Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue and Paste Gun Blue provide great blueing to metal that has already been thoroughly cleaned and is free of rust. Perma Blue Paste Gun Blue is slower to darken than Liquid Gun Blue, but will build up a denser finish. NOTE: PERMA BLUE Liquid Gun Blue will not blue stainless steel, aluminum or non-ferrous metals. - See more at: https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing/Perma-Blue%C2%AE-Liquid-Paste-Gun-Blue.aspx#sthash.yvVijNkw.dpuf.
Top Customer Reviews
Please note the pictures included with this review for the process I used and the quality of the final product.
Let me preface this by saying that disposable gloves and a clean work environment with paper towels or newspaper to catch any spills is advisable.
First, I followed instructions:
Prepping the metal:
1) Cleaning the metal - They recommend their own brand of cleaner, of course - however I simply used some rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs, which worked well.
2) With a small pad of steel wool, polish the metal lightly to remove old bluing and surface rust. Continue until metal is shiny. (I found that this was particularly important in the later stages when I found uneven darkening in my work. More on that later.)
3) If the metal suffers from deep scratches and/or pitting, sand the affected areas with fine 280-grit paper followed by a steel wool polish. A file may be needed for deep pits. (This step wasn't necessary on my project as the metal was new and without any discernible blemishes.)
4) Whatever you do, don’t try and rush metal preparation. Keep polishing until everything looks right. (This really is critical. Don't start applying the bluing until you have a good finished product that's blemish-free. Your finished work will thank you by looking great.)
5) Re-apply the Cleaner & Degreaser, scrub with a sponge and rinse again with cold water. At this point, be careful not to touch the metal with your fingers as this can leave tell-tale marks after bluing caused by the natural oils from your hand. (Used rubbing alcohol for this process as well and the disposable gloves were on - saves your work from having an "oops". I can't stress this enough - you brush your arm, wrist, hand, finger, nose or whatever on the metal, you cannot see it. But the bluing will help you see it clearly later on.)
1) Apply Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Paste or Liquid Gun Blue with an applicator swab over the entire surface to be blued. Work as quickly as you can, but remember to be thorough. Rather than blueing the entire surface at one time, you may want to divide the work into 2 or 3 sections. (I found two things to be important with this step. One, be generous with your liquid. I don't mean pour the bottle over your project, but let your swab soak and don't squeeze it dry. Two, move quickly and smoothly over the metal - I was working on a 2" square surface plus a 2" ring - I did the whole piece in one shot, making sure to coat both sides of the ring plus the outer and inner ring with fresh dips into the bottle.)
2) Allow the blueing to stand on the metal for 30-60 seconds. No longer. Then neutralize the chemical reaction by rinsing immediately and thoroughly with cold water and wipe dry. (30-60 seconds is plenty of time - seriously)
3) After or during rinsing, polish very lightly with fine steel wool to blend the color if needed. If steel wool is used, you must use Cleaner & Degreaser again to remove any surface oils that may have been introduced. Appraise the blueing for coverage. If streaking exists or you desire a deeper/darker blue, simply repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 until the desired color is obtained. (After the rinsing - during the rinsing is kind of silly in my opinion as the water is going to distort what you see. The key here is VERY LIGHTLY. If you go heavy, you'll pull some of the bluing off. If you have spots that are darker than the rest, add a little pressure and they will even out. However, this is one a one step process, so don't worry too much about the color at this point.)
4) Saturate all areas with Birchwood Casey Barricade Rust Protection and allow your new blueing to cure overnight. (Well, I used a very light coating of 3in1 oil and let it sit overnight, which gave it a fantastic finish and cleaned up quickly and easily. I should point out that for me, it took three coats to hit the level of darkness I wanted and to make it very even. On the last round, the metal never saw the steel wool. I rubbed it dry with a towel and lightly oiled it to let it sit overnight.)
Overall I was pleased with the process and the outcome. It gave a fantastic browning to the metal which looked amazing on the wood project. Time will tell how well this will hold up, but if it fails, I'm going to assume it's due to the metal not being top grade ferrous metal and instead low grade metal with a zinc plating that needed to be bypassed.
I didn't try pre-heating. This may be just a thing people think helps, and not actually appropriate for this particular chemistry. However, I will say that cleaning is absolutely essential. I didn't use anything expensive; just lots of soap and water and a final alcohol wash. The spots I washed more casually...oh, it was obvious that I'd done so.
I intentionally put the blue on uneven, and the areas where it is heavier have a smoother texture. It's no surprise to me that some of the metal reacted and changes, but be aware that this might happen for you as well.