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Birchwood Casey True-Oil Stock Finish 8-Ounce Liquid
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- The first choice of professionals for stock finishing. - See more at: https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Wood-Finishing/Tru-Oil%C2%AE-Stock-Finish.aspx#sthash.JGy8KbBr.dpuf
- Unique blend of linseed and natural oils dries fast and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age. - See more at: https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Wood-Finishing/Tru-Oil%C2%AE-Stock-Finish.aspx#sthash.JGy8KbBr.dpuf
- Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish 8.0 oz
- Everything you need to finish a new stock or to refinish an old stock
- Brings out the richness and beauty of fine woods
- Gives you a tough, long-lasting finish
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True-Oil Gun Stock Finish 8 oz. - There is no better oil finish. True-Oil Gun Stock Finish has been the professional's choice for gunstock finishing for more than 30 years. Its unique blend of linseed and other natural oils dries fast, resists water damage and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age. Excellent as a sealer for under butt plates, recoil pads and in inflated actions to prevent stock damage. Kit includes: 3 oz. True-Oil Gun Stock Finish 3 oz. Walnut Stain 3 oz. Stock Sheen and Conditioner Fine, Medium and Coarse Papers 00 Steel Wool Pads Service and Polish Cloths Complete Instruction Guide.
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First time using.
Tip: pour a dab and I mean dab onto paper plate.
Dab finger then dab in dry part of plate.
THEN apply on gun and spread it as far as you can with each dab.
This is 4-5 coats. Used 1200 at first but took to much off so used 000 steel wool in between coats. Did 1-2 coats a day.
A bottle should be able to do 100 gun stocks!
First used paint stripper to take off old finish.
Then sanded with 400
Then made sure was dry before tru oil.
And when I applied the oil, after dried I would use steel wool but then I rinsed with water and wiped dry. Then used a tack cloth.
Never had an issue with particles.
If you need maximum protection for guitar necks, any wipe on poly is good. Some players just prefer this "natural oil" feel. Also, you can make poly finish feel smoother by sanding with white buffing pads after the finish dries, so keep that in mind if you need more protection but also want the smooth "fast" feel.
After three fully cured and carefully buffed coats, it develops a lustrous sheen just shy of full gloss, yet feels almost as smooth a bare 400-grit sanded wood. I keep some around for doing guitar finishes for some friends, but warn them that each coat takes at least a day to fully cure and several coats are needed on Maple. Mahogany, and exotic woods require even more coats. I have not tried it on very open grained woods like Oak nor on any softwoods.
I have used heated drying cabinets with this stuff and found I must use more thin coats rather than fewer thick coats since the forced heat-cure makes the oil "weep" and get sticky. So, take that as a preventative warning. You can learn from my experience. Nothing terrible happens when the oil weeps. You just have to be patient and wait for it to fully cure, one layer at a time as the directions say.
It's simple, practically foolproof and super easy. No special equipment needed; just some soft cloth or linen. You can even use paper towels so long as they are the sturdy blue shop-towels. Of course, as with all oil finishes, you want to wet the used rags after use or open them completely to dry to avoid possibility of spontaneous combustion. I've been finishing wood instruments for over fifty years and never had a rag catch fire yet, but still, better safe than sorry.
This is also one of the easiest finishes to renew or repair. Just sand any divots or bad patches, then apply more. It blends perfectly and buffs evenly.
In short, this is convenient because you do not have to mix your own ingredients. It is ideal for wood that will contact some, but not much moisture. It is not quite as fast drying as my homemade finishes, but it is every bit as high quality. It does not provide maximum protection against moisture like poly, but it is more than adequate for gunstocks and most guitars, assuming you don't row boats with your axe or sweat like a republican at a hearing.
I consider this one of the two easiest wood finishes and it sure is pretty on any good hardwood. Affordable. Simple. Easy. Reasonably fast.
Store the bottle upside down after squeezing as much air out as you can to keep it from hardening up in the bottle, in between applications. In fact, try not to open the bottle any more than you have to. When I'm going to do several coats, I like to put 1/2 oz or so in a separate sealable container and add a few drops of Japan Drier. Using very thin coats, I can re-coat every hour or two, with no tacky feeling. I like to do that all weekend, as often as I can make it back to the piece, then let it all cure for the week. After it's sat for a week it's dry enough to sand it back or buff it out, depending on how close you are to being done. Once the grain is filled, just a few more light coats and buff it out and you have a really nice looking finish.
Also I like to use 3M Scotchbrite pads (gray) instead of steel wool, so I don't get bits of metal all over my shop (and potentially in the finish).
Pictured - my 1963 Anschutz 1411, stock refinished with Tru-Oil.