Other Sellers on Amazon
+ Free Shipping
+ Free Shipping
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks
|Price:||& FREE Shipping. Details & FREE Returns|
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- St blade fuse block - 12 circuits with negative bus and cover
- Positive distribution bus with #10-32 stud
- Can be used for 24-hour circuits
- Cover satisfies ABYC/USCG Requirements for insulation, incorporates an easy to open push button latch providing easy access to fuses, storage for two spare fuses
- Accepts ATO and ATC fast acting blade fuses
Frequently bought together
Customers who bought this item also bought
Customers who viewed this item also viewed
CHOKING HAZARD -- This toy is a marble. Not for children under 3 yrs.
Have a question?
Find answers in product info, Q&As, reviews
Your question may be answered by sellers, manufacturers, or customers who purchased this item, who are all part of the Amazon community.
Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question.
Please enter a question.
From the manufacturer
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks
ST Blade ATO/ATC fuse blocks consolidate branch circuits and eliminate the tangle of in-line fuses for electronics and other appliances. Their robust design makes them ideal for marine and vehicle DC electrical systems.
All buses and fuse clips are tin plated copper for corrosion resistance and optimal electrical conductivity.
All ST Blade fuse blocks utilize a specialized fuse clip that is designed to hold fuses in place in the harshest conditions.
All fasteners are stainless steel. Screws contain a captive star lock washer for a faster more secure installation. Studs utilize flange nuts for a simpler and safer installation. Fuses sold separately.
Additional Key Features Include:
Ground Bus: For DC negative connections. (5024, 5025, 5030, 5026, 5031, and 5032).
Includes Cover: Easy to open insulating cover that provides access to fuses and satisfies ABYC/ USCG requirements. (5023, 5024, 5045, 5046, 5035, 5025, 5028, 5026, 5029 and 5032).
Independent Source: Each circuit contains an individual feed wire. (5035 and 5037).
Common Source: Single feed wire supplies power to all circuits in the fuse block. (5023, 5024, 5045, 5046, 5025, 5030, 5028, 5033, 5026, 5031, 5029, 5034, and 5032).
Split Bus: Allows two isolated groups of 6 circuits each. (5032 only).
Ignition Protection: Allows for use in a gasoline engine compartment. Meets ISO 8846 and SAE J1171 external ignition protection requirements. (5023, 5024, 5045, and 5046).
Battery Terminal Mount: Fuse block can be mounted directly on the battery terminal stud. (5023 and 5024).
Style Name: 12-Circ w/Cover & Neg
Would you like to tell us about a lower price?
There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.
I used 8ga wire for the Positive and Negative Pus as I was only running the cables 2 feet to the battery, and for the two components I have hooked up I'm using 16ga as that is all that's required for the amp/wire length.
If I HAD to complain about something It would be the fact that the fuse block has a 100 Amp max per block, and a 30 Amp max per circuit limitation. If you wanted to use all 12 circuits you could only use an average of 7.5amps each (technicaly just over 8 amps but the don't make 8 amp fuses) So if your purchasing this for your jeep and have a lot oh halogen lights you want to wire up or perhaps a large boat you may run into some power constraints. Granted 100 amps is still a lot of power but It's the only limiting factor I can think of.
I tightened down the negative battery terminal. I'm no noob and just made it snug. No problem. I then started to tighten the positive. After more than enough turns I began to wonder WTF. The amount of torque I had applied wasn't enough to tighten the cable down. It was able to move with little force. I finally figured out what had happened. The bolt was spinning. I took the back off. No way to salvage it. There's not much holding the bold to the circuit board. Had to cut the wire to get it off the terminal. When I tried taking the negative terminal off, same thing it just spun. Had to cut that one too.
After seeing how this thing is made, you may be able to get both terminal cables cinched down, but you'll probably never get them off again.
After looking at the negative reviews i'm not the only one with this problem. Be careful this thing is fragile.
I took an angle grinder to the bolts, cut the nut off and pushed them through. Will head to home depot in the morning to by a couple stainless #10 bolts to replace them.
Pretty Simple set up. If you have your accessories all going to your battery:
1. Locate the positive and negative wire to each accessory
2. If you need to, splice (with butt connectors) the wires so that they can reach the fuse block with some length to allow you to work. In this stage, a little more length than you need is far better than a little too short, or even "exactly" the right length. You can shorten it later if you need to.
3. Locate the main positive and main negative that it attached to the battery you are using. Connect the positive wire from the battery to the positive post of the fuse block, and the negative to the negative post.
4. I attached small ring connectors to the negative wires of the accessories (bilge, aerator, nav lights, etc.) and attached them ANYWHERE on the negative positions. You don't need to worry about "where" the negative wires are connected, as long as they are secure on the negative posts and as neat as you want them to be.
5. The fuse side is numbered. With the same size small ring connectors, attach the positive lead from your accessory to the number on the fuse panel you want.
6. You can either attach another ring connector on top of the one you just installed onto another wire, then to wire that new wire to your switch. Another way is to connect your positive lead and a separate pigtail into the ring connector on the fuse block, then run the pig tail to the switch.
It may take a little tinkering, but the result is FAR WORTH the effort. I would also strongly recommend the Blue Sea Easy ID Fuses. If you blow a fuse, it has a small LED that lights up letting you know that you lost that fuse.
12 fused links.
No area to hold extra fuses
No Main fuse slot.
It bolts straight to the positive batter terminal. You simply add your acc wires to the screws on the block ans when ready to use put your fuse in place, then ready to go..It came with a see through cover to protect everything from the weather,. When done everything looks nice and organized, no extra wire curled up in odd places. Great for lights, stereo, of any other electrical items you with to add to your vehicle.
Recommended to everyone.
Top international reviews
deserves 5 stars+plus
Very good quality