|Item Weight||7.2 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||1.6 x 1.6 x 3.9 inches|
|Item model number||BSI-201|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
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Bob Smith Industries BSI-201 Quik-Cure Epoxy (4.5 oz. Combined)
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QUIK-CURE 5 min. epoxy cures to a slightly flexible consistency. This lack of brittleness allows it to form a lasting bond in areas subjected to high vibration or stress. QUIK-CURE shouldn’t be used in areas that are subject to long-term immersion in water; however, it works fine for the internal structure of wood framed boats. QUIK-CURE is our only epoxy on which you can apply polyester resins. It can be mixed with micro balloons to form a quick setting putty. Items bonded with QUIK-CURE can be handled after 15 minutes. Full strength is reached in 1 hour. Directions in 5 different languages.
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Other than the longer-than-expected cure time, I'm very happy with this epoxy. It bonds very well to glass; I applied a small test amount on a mirror which I was unable to chip off after 2 days. However it did not make a permanent bond to some plastics I've tried. Many plastics are notoriously difficult to bond and require a specialty plastic adhesive.
The epoxy resin (black bottle) has virtually no smell, but the hardener (red bottle) has an awful smell which thankfully dissipates by the time the mixture is fully cured. It would be better if the tiny caps were tethered with a strip of plastic to prevent losing them - like some plastic condiment bottles are.
This 2-part epoxy isn't cheap, and mixing it is a bit of a chore, but compared to cyanoacrylate/super glue you get a lot for the money, and it doesn't harden in the bottle - its shelf life is years or more. It can do some things that super glues, waterbased glues, and polyurethane glues can't. Every time I come across a repair around the house that needs it, I'm glad I have it.
This stuff is rock hard (after curing) seems very durable, and if your surfaces are clean it bonds very permanently. Nice tops that include a little inside cap so the separate epoxy & hardener don't evaporate. TIP: don't thro those out. Set them aside and don't allow them to touch one another. Keep them so you can take the top off and return them inside the cap for storage. If you do this, these small bottles will likely go a long way. You don't need much and its tough stuff.
This is the fast hardening version. Have your items set up and ready to glue. Once you mix it you only get a couple of minutes before it starts to set up. Mix equal amounts of the two parts. Mix thoroughly, but minimize air bubbles by not stirring too vigorously. It let it sit about 30 seconds after mixing to let air bubbles pop - Then I apply the glue.
If you apply to plastic, roughen the surface a bit before applying to improve adhesion. I have used it with polycarbonate (Lexan); acrylic (Plexiglass); PVC; phenolic; and even polypropylene. The bond isn't as strong on the slicker plastics - but it does stick. I doubt it would stick to polyethylene or UHMW. It sticks well to metal and wood.
I mixed my epoxy on a piece of cardstock and used a scrap length of filament to mix it with. I have years of experience with epoxy and it was well mixed and cured hard. I became concerned when I went to check my part and looked at the cardstock with the piece of filament resting in the leftover pool of epoxy. I usually leave my mixing card on the table so I can monitor the curing of the epoxy. The leftovers were rock hard, but I became concerned when I was able to pull the piece of PLA filament right out of the hardened epoxy, leaving an imprint of the curled plastic on the hardened epoxy.
Well, long story longer, when I went to check my part glueup (about 8 hours had passed) and with a small amount of finger pressure, the parts popped apart and I could peel bits of squeezeout off the surface with my fingernail.
I've never seen epoxy behave like this with PLA printed parts (I do this on a regular basis). I don't know if I will trust this brand anymore. It may work well on other surfaces, but not for me.