|Item Weight||0.8 ounces|
|Product Dimensions||9.5 x 4.8 x 0.8 inches|
|Item model number||BSK-01|
|Batteries||1 CR123A batteries required. (included)|
|Size||Bondic® Starter Kit|
|Manufacturer Part Number||BSK1|
Bondic,Repair Anything! Better Than Glue! Waterproof, Heat Resistant, Made In USA! Up To 100 Fixes! The 1st Liquid Plastic Welder! Bond, Build, Fix & Fill Anything In Seconds! (Bondic Starter Kit)
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- Bondic® is NOT a glue, so don't use it as one! It's the world's FIRST liquid plastic welder.
- Bondic® is the only product that works where glue fails. It’s liquid plastic that only hardens when you need it to. YES it stays liquid and won’t dry out like those crazy glues on the market today. Clean, Fill, Cure and Shape in seconds, to fix almost anything, saving countless precious items from ending up in the trash before their time.
- With Bondic® you can bond, build, fix and fill almost anything, it’s a 3D tool that fits in your pocket. Use it on plastic, wood, metal and even fabric!
- Voted the most innovative product at the National Hardware Show!
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THE BONDIC® PRINCIPLES
• Bondic® works best on rough surfaces and even better with undercuts
• Bondic® solidifies only by exposure to UV light (LED included)
• Bondic® works best in layers (the maximum thickness of one layer is 1- 1.5 mm)
• Bondic® works best when the surface is clean and free of grease
• Bondic® is solvent free, which is one reason why it doesn’t dry out
• Bondic® is a liquid plastic welder that should be used with the principle of welding and NOT gluing
Bondic® is the world's first liquid plastic welding tool! It's not a glue, so don't use it as one! It's the ONLY product that works where glue fails! It's a liquid plastic that never dries until you want it to! Simply squeeze out the desired amount and use the UV LED Light to cure it in 4 seconds and it's done, the world's fastest drying bond! You'll be amazed how fast it works!
Bondic® is both heat and water resistant, as well as resistant to acids, oils, lyles, and lubricants! The uses for Bondic® are endless. Replace and restore substances (reparation). Setting elements and objects (temporarily or permanently). Control over adhesive strength on difference surfaces. Joining objects by integrating undercuts in the construction. Filling and Sealing. Mold Making. Bondic® can be molded, milled, filed, painted, polished and sanded, so you can customize any repair! Bondic® is lightweight, portable, and can easily fit in your pocket, so you can take it on the go! Bondic® fixes the broken pieces of the world, one bond at a time!
Returns/Refunds : In order to be eligible for a refund, the product must be unopened in its original packaging and in new condition.
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I read some reviews on here regarding fluid leakage from the pen, and I thought it can happen, but maybe their quality-control will step up. I received this unit and it was partially covered with the liquid material that leaked out - not a lot. But it isn't the type of stuff you want on your skin, and there's no way around it unless you open the package with a cloth or paper towel handy. Also, the pen body is much more flexible than I would have thought. It's like a stiff black plastic drinking straw with threads that don't seal that well. Okay, not a big deal.
But the LED wouldn't light. There are two ways of activating it - sliding a switch down that presses one of the LED leads to make contact with the battery, or by squeezing the soft battery case to do the same thing. Nothing. I don't know if the LED is defective or the battery was dead. I suspect the latter.
I had an application for which this item would have been perfect. But I can't use it and have to send it back. Very disappointed.
********************* UPDATE **************************
I began my return process with Amazon, but in the meantime, the seller noticed my review and promptly sent a replacement, unsolicited by me. The replacement arrived today and the LED light was fully functional. I didn't notice any leakage around the pen, but I might still expect some, given the material it's made from. The item works as advertised, though I will say that the resulting cured product is a bit more flexible than it appears in the video.
It isn't glue, but if you've had any experience with actual metal welding, you will have more success - you need to make a good solid mechanical connection for good strength.
I updated my review from one to four stars - for the product itself. It isn't the cat's pajamas as it appeared, but it's pretty good.
The seller is outstanding - and I very much appreciate their efforts to satisfy this customer.
Straight off the top: magical thinking. I purchased Bondic to try to save time and effort to seal a fuel tank which I had repaired years ago after trying every adhesive available and seeing them all fail. I was pretty sure Bondic would too, but no one had covered it in any depth as far as a range of materials go. It was that type of flexible thermolplastic or PVC which I was fairly certain would resist any technique other than true plastic welding (using a scrap of base material as a filler), which is time consuming and difficult.
I decided to do a video in case a prospective customer wanted to see for him (or her)self without my usual TL/DR written review, but felt the whole story might be interesting as well. In short, I wanted to provide the review I would like to have read before I tried Bondic, and offer other thoughts on the product and its other uses. (I have also discovered, as may you, that reading the reviews here is a great way to learn applications in which Bondic will be more successful And, after completing this review, I thought I might add applications for Bondic that are worthy of note; hang in and later you may see a few surprises.)
So: No, it didn't work for me. And yes, I admit to being disappointed, it's such a cool idea.
But, you have to understand the concept here- Bondic is not an adhesive, or despite claims, provide "welding", it's more like caulk. Or perhaps more accurately, a surface-only patching compound, since the liquid has no adhesive properties until it can be cured by the included UV LED.
Which is good and bad; good in that you won't stick your fingers together or make a permanent mess, but bad because none all but the most perfect of situations can be repaired with any greater results than can be resolved by a traditional product- especially if it's a surface chip or a butt joint. I just tried it on a saucer, and realizing the UV light could not possibly be used to cure the majority of the fluid, I just "burned" the squeeze-out and so far it seems to be an OK, if simply cosmetic repair,
It is always my hope that I will discover the miracle adhesive that bonds that previously un-bondable material- usually a slippery plastic that defies cyanoacrylate or anything at all. When I saw Bondic I was momentarily excited, but as I learned more, age and cynicism kicked in and I realized that while offering the new (to me) technique of UV curing, the fact that Bondic is marketed as "not glue, but actual welding" really increased my suspicions.
I am a welder, and believing in a more realistic definition of what can really be called welding, realized at once there is little about Bondic that could be considered true welding.
A former associate used to refer to the technique used by non-skilled people operating welding equipment which consisted of building up layers of filler material in the hopes some of it would adhere and join the metal as "blobularization". Or, in different words, a cold solder, which is essentially what Bondic offers for a majority of situations. Don't get me wrong; it holds things together, but it's not usually as attractive or as strong as the correct process may be.
The manufacturer is not deceptive about it although a tiny bit vague. The instructions and ad copy describe the Bondic process truthfully, but you just should realize it is not welding. One definition says welding is: "causing two parts of a base material (primarily metal) to become molten under high temperature and fuse, usually with the aid of filler material."
So, I knew it was probably not going to work for the application I needed- re-sealing the leaking center joint of a thermoplastic fuel tank. I had already successfully heat welded the crack once, using a scrap of like material for filler, and it help up well for a few years but I though I would give this new wrinkle a try before a new crack caused a new leak.
Before I tried the real repair, I did a small test on a small section of the tank that was not leaking. I performed used all the prep as recommended, applied the product, cured, waited a few minutes and tested it. While it resisted light pushing and prodding, with a sharp edge under the end of the bead, not to be crude but it simply pulled off like a scab that it essentially was.
Nevertheless, I thought it might be more graphic to shoot a little video, especially for those who do not need this much info- but this time while I made the repair on the actual area. It had to be edited heavily, but be assured I followed both manufacturers' instructions (such as they are) and best procedure for both welding and any plastic repair I have ever performed.
I applied a thin bead along the seam with Bondic, the crack seemed too small for a 3-pass method, and not only using 3 times the material, it would technically be three times more likely to fail. It flowed nicely, ran into the seam and my roughening; looked great.
As seen in the video, I pressurized the tank and put soap on the seam to pinpoint - and illustrate the leak.
But because the compound would not interact with the base material- a resilient thermoplastic- what I ended up with was blobularization. And sadly, the entire lovely bead popped right off with only a little persuasion, it appeared fuel had just been vibrating and resting on the backside was enough to seep under the bead and compromise it. At least I was able to clean it up and re-weld the seam in the original, tedious fashion, and to be fair, I applied another coat of Bondic just for a little more protection- this is the part of the machine that rests on the ground (hence the original failure) so it may well protect the seam a little longer. .
I suspect if one were able to completely surround a crack or a hole as illustrated by Bondic's use of a copper pipe repair (gotta test that one) a measure of success could be expected, but this is usually not a convenient or realistic approach to a repair, except perhaps for temporary emergencies.
I found several plastics that didn't need repair in the first place would accept a bead that could not be removed, but am still awaiting for the ideal test piece.
I know this kit will be a welcome addition and a lifesaver at some point, it is unique and the ease of use offsets quite a few other limitations, but it is not the magic bullet.
It's an attractively designed little package, right down to the foam-lined tin storage case, the way the LED case snaps into the dispenser pen.. but that alone was a warning. Ever seen a cleverly packaged repair product that was in common use and worked really well? I haven't.
And BTW, be sure you don't accidentally expose the needle-tip applicator to the LED. It pulls out and can be cleaned, as long as you have a #75 drill bit handy!
I recently relocated some blinds that were mounted with stout brackets into the drywall, not only did I not have any patching compound to fill the holes, even if I had I was in a really big hurry. So I happened to think of Bondic- now, here's one app you won't see advertised! But after cleaning up the surface ever so slightly, I was able to work a drop or two into each hole, cure and paint immediately. In most cases one or two passes were all it took. I was able to massage the liquid a bit to match the texture, the fill is solid and after painting, almost undetectable. I had pretty much given up on re-ordering, but stuff like this shows it might not be a bad idea to leave some around for the unexpected.
More from the understaffed and ill-equipped Bondic Volunteer Research Lab: I have a pair of Ray-Bans that have been repaired so many times the bottom frame of one side is almost completely missing. So much so the bottom edge of lens would sit on my nose. Fearlessly reaching once again for the remaining Bondic, I made a bead at each end of the old frame, then slowly built it up across the gap.
It blended and fused perfectly, and the shades are now wearable once again. The bead was of course clear plastic, so a little touch-up with a black Sharpie and I am good to go. At this point the product reminds me of its homophonic automotive world counterpart, "Bondo".