|Item Weight||8 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||13 x 10 x 3 inches|
|Item model number||1199VSR|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Warranty Description||1 Year Repair or Replacement of Parts|
Bosch 1199VSR 8.5-Amp 1/2-Inch Hammer Drill
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- Metal Gear Housing for long life and rugged job site durability
- Patented Cord Turret allows cord to pivot 35-Degree on a ball joint for added flexibility and longer cord life
- 8.5 Amps
- 0 - 1-100 / 0 - 3,000 No Load RPM
- 0 - 18,000 / 0 - 48,000 No Load BPM
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From the Manufacturer
Top Customer Reviews
Anyway, This set of reviews comes up fairly high on google search when looking for repair information. The drill itself is quite robust when it comes to the big/major parts. What's burning out is a stupid little $2 connector (Bosch 1614465012). When you run the drill hard, this connector will overheat and pop like a fuse. I repaired mine with a spare connector I had on hand (from my motorcycle wiring supplies), but the part is available and used in several models of Bosch drills.
To repair, unplug the drill. Remove the 3 T20 torx screws on the back of the grip and slide the grip apart. Disconnect the 3 wires that lead from the trigger assembly to the motor (green and black on top, white just above the trigger), remove the trigger assembly and set aside. Next, remove the 3 T20 torx screws that hold the 2 halves of the drill together. You'll want to do this over shop towels as there's grease inside. When you separate the 2 halves, take care to remove the drive gears from the motor side And the washer that fits between those gears and the housing. Remove and set aside the gasket that seals the 2 halves as well. Next, the rotor (center part of the electric motor that turns) will pull straight out ~ mine also came out with the black plastic dust shield, if yours doesn't that just pulls straight out.Read more ›
I purchased this drill about five years ago and have used it regularly.
I'm a framing carpenter . . . well, actually, now a RETIRED framing carpenter . . . and I use this drill to punch holes in concrete (fresh and old); 6X6, 4X6, 8X8 timbers; stacks of 2X lumber; and God-only-knows-what-else.
I have never replaced a single part on the drill. I throw it around, pick it up by the cord, drop it, leave it out in the truck. And now my grandson is bugging me to give it to him.
(1) You need to remove the brush plate, which is the piece that you rotate to reverse the drill (google for a parts diagram) - the switch contact is a curved piece of metal that sits behind it - pops out fairly easily. To remove the brush plate, stick your fingers in the front end of the casing and push the carbon brushes apart, then use your other hand to pull the brush plate out.
(2) I'd recommend reinstalling the brush plate after you put the stator and rotor back in, as you will need to hold the brushes apart to get over the end of the armature (I used a couple of bits of wire to hold the brush springs back once I'd got it onto the central plastic housing, then pushed).
(3) Minor point - the stator on my drill was secured by T10 torx, not T15.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
I've owned this drill for a long time, (at least ten years now), and never had a problem with it. I use it fairly frequently,( a couple of time a month), and it always performs. Read morePublished 17 months ago by R. G. Thomas
Only two problems
1. bits come loose in few seconds when used in hammer mode especially for concrete bits larger than 1/2".
2. Read more
I purchased this drill to replace an old Black and Decker 3/8" corded drill that was under powered for me. At 8. Read morePublished on August 29, 2013 by RK
I purchased this hammer drill about 7 years ago to drill holes in my concrete foundation to mount ledger boards for a porch and deck. Read morePublished on August 16, 2013 by CT Roadie