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A Burger to Believe In: Recipes and Fundamentals [A Cookbook] Hardcover – May 22, 2018
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Chris Kronner has dedicated his creative energy, professional skills, and a lifetime of burger experiences to understanding America's favorite sandwich. In his debut cookbook, this trusted chef reveals the secrets behind his art and obsession, and teaches you how to create all of the elements of a perfect burger at home. Including tips for sourcing and grinding high-quality meat, musings on what makes a good bun, creative ideas for toppings (spoiler alert: there are more bad ideas out there than good, and restraint is the name of the game), and more than forty burger accompaniments and alternatives—from superior onion rings to seasonal salads to Filet-O-Fish-inspired Crab Burgers—this book is not only a burger bible, but also a meditation on creating perfection in simplicity.
- Print length240 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherTen Speed Press
- Publication dateMay 22, 2018
- Dimensions7.54 x 0.9 x 10.26 inches
- ISBN-100399579265
- ISBN-13978-0399579264
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From the Publisher
Bar Tartine Burger
Serves 4
Starting in 2009, I was the chef at Bar Tartine, a San Francisco bistro owned by Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt. The burger at Bar Tartine was the beginning of a burger mantra: thoughtful, reductive simplicity. Here’s what I mean by that phrase. There are a finite number of components in a burger. Meat, bread, vegetables, condiments, maybe cheese. Pursuing a better burger requires considering each individual component and making it the best possible version of itself. It was at Bar Tartine that I started honing in on each of the individual components. I became an agent in the creation of the ingredients: making the precise pickles I wanted, using aged beef, experimenting with a cheddar-mayo, and using buns baked daily from Tartine Bakery.
Divide the beef into four 6-ounce balls, handling minimally. Put a sheet of plastic wrap over a 4-inch ring mold on a cutting board or other hard surface. Put a ball in the middle of the mold and gently press down with the palm of your hand, forming a patty that is 4 inches wide. Pop it out with the plastic wrap. Put the patties on a large dish or small baking sheet and refrigerate until ready to cook.
In a cast-iron pan or on a grill over high heat, cook the onion slices until charred on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a small bowl, and toss with the sherry vinegar. Set aside.
Salt both sides of each patty.
Before you begin cooking the burgers, get the buns toasting. Heat a cast-iron skillet or similar surface over medium-low heat. Slice the buns in half horizontally. Smear the 2 tablespoons of butter on the buns and place, butter side down, on the hot surface, working in batches if necessary. Toast until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes, adjusting the heat if necessary. You want to do your best to time their completion to the burger cooking.
While the buns toast, cook the patties.
To cook on a grill: Cook the patties over high heat for 2 minutes, then flip and cook for another 2 minutes, until medium-rare.
To cook on a stove top: Heat a large cast-iron pan over high heat. Spread 1⁄2 teaspoon of butter on the bottom of each patty. Add the patties and cook for 2 minutes, then flip and cook for another 2 minutes, until medium-rare.
Place a heaping forkful of onions and pickles on a bottom bun and top with a patty and several big leaves of lettuce. Spread 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise on the top bun and cap it off. Repeat with your other burgers. Eat immediately.
Ingredients
- 1 ½ pounds freshly ground grass-fed beef
- ½ onion, cut into ¹⁄4-inch rings
- 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
- Salt
- 4 brioche buns
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus another 2 teaspoons if using a stove top to cook the burgers
- 2 heads Little Gem lettuce
- ½ cup sliced dill pickles
- ¼ cup mayonnaise
Editorial Reviews
Review
– Publishers Weekly, Starred Review
"In sum, Kronner not only gives us a perfect burger, but plenty of things to nosh on before, during, and après burger.
– Atlanta Journal-Constitution
"The Burger King, Hamburglar, and Wimpy excepted, few people—real or imagined—have obsessed over burgers like Chris Kronner has. And it shows. One juicy bite of his meticulously constructed signature Kronnerburger (or a flip through the pages of the meaty manifesto you are now holding) proves that burger brilliance is about more than just patty, bun, and toppings. It’s architecture, curiosity, heritage, and old-school passion that elevates the tasty to the transcendent."
– Andrew Knowlton, Bon Appétit
"Funny how hamburgers and caviar are alike: if you’re going to indulge, indulge in the best. Chris Kronner’s burgers have always been beluga-level. With A Burger to Believe In, Chris brings it all home, from every kind of succulent meatiness to salads that will tempt even the most dedicated carnivore. Whether your party is for two or twenty, a celebration or a simple meal, if crunch, savor, comfort, and flavor stoke your appetite—that is, if you are a living human—then this cookbook is for you."
– Cal Peternell, author of Twelve Recipes and A Recipe for Cooking
"The first time I ate at Kronnerburger, Chris served me the Platonic ideal of a burger—it was simple and exceptional all at once, without a single unnecessary accoutrement (if you like foie gras on your burger, keep moving). For us salad/burger acolytes, a perfect meal speaks its own name. A perfect burger is a parade of excellent ingredients brought together with a confident hand. It was quite literally, the burger of my dreams."
– Julia Sherman, author of Salad for President
"Making a really perfect version of a simple food—a burger, a brioche bun, a country loaf—is more complicated than people realize. Chris Kronner has been obsessing with the singular idea of a burger for more than a decade, painstakingly dissecting its components and techniques, and then elevating them. At the end of the day, the burger is an epic sum of its parts, a utilitarian vision. The Kronnerburger is not a super-fancy gilded burger; it is the classic American sandwich—in the best possible version of itself."
– Chad Robertson, Tartine Bakery
About the Author
PAOLO LUCCHESI is the editor of the award-winning food and wine section at the San Francisco Chronicle and was a founding editor of Eater. He is the co-author of Flour + Water: Pasta and The Humphrey Slocombe Ice Cream Book.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
There is no perfect.
The hamburger is possibly America’s most recognizable and representative food. What started as the most democratic, wholesome square meal meant to be consumed quickly for a fair price has mutated into forms unrecognizable to those original burger salesmen, not to mention the ranchers who raised the beef. Since the hamburger’s creation, it has followed the revolutions and undulations of farming and economics in this country. Its path—and current forms—cannot be separated from the divergent systems of farming and animal rearing in the United States. On one extreme, there is the fast-food hamburger. Like the corporate industrial farms of which it is a product, it champions speed, quantity, and a price only achievable through subsidies and methods that compromise taste, animals, land, and the people involved in the systems that produce and consume it. On the other side is the well-intentioned, but often fetishized, higher-end product, which places importance on better values but struggles to make its product financially viable and accessible to the masses.
I have eaten a thousand hamburgers. Hamburgers made of young beef, old beef, dry-aged beef, wet-aged beef, goose, wild boar, venison. Hamburgers made of A5 Kobe, water buffalo, plant-based “meat,” brown bear (also made into burritos), elk, prosciutto. And hamburgers made of the crummiest, grayest, unidentifiably sad meat imaginable.
I have eaten hamburgers in cars, restaurants, backyards, ballparks, and the woods; on trains and boats; at the movies and the entrance to Machu Picchu; in Denver, Atlanta, Asheville, Seattle, Portland, Nashville, New York, New Orleans, Los Angeles, Detroit, London, Paris, Beirut, Istanbul, Buenos Aires, Vancouver, Montevideo, Mexico City, Lyon, Tokyo; and everywhere in between.
I have cooked close to a billion hamburgers, mostly in restaurants, many at home, on grills, in microwaves, in alleys, in a couple of museums, on rooftops, in art galleries, in parking lots, and in fields next to said hamburger’s still-grazing brethren.
I have looked a cow in its eyes before putting a bullet between them. I have seen cows birthed and watched them die.
What is presented in the following pages is the result of a lot of burger cooking and burger eating. With this book, I originally set out with very specific intentions, to write about the ONE way to make ONE burger using ONE very specific type of beef only. That was dumb. I am dumb. What I found, as Paolo and I dove deeper, is that there are many ways to make a better burger, in the choices you make both in your purchases and preparations.
Before and during the process of writing of this book, I tried as many types of beef as possible. I also explored as many variations of burger cooking as possible. I have talked burgers and beef with meat salespeople, burger eaters, fancy chefs, line cooks, and beef ranchers of many stripes. We very likely missed some points of view and more than a few closely guarded burger secrets. Maybe your dad cooks burgers over an old, abandoned well full of smoldering tires and lit fireworks. Maybe your grandmother swears by a burger ratio of 80 percent beef, 5 percent French onion soup mix, and 15 percent lean hawk meat. I fully respect your hamburger traditions.
The beef that I find to be best, in my home of Northern California, may not be available to you. Depending on where you live and cook, use the best of what is available, the ingredients you like the most. If you have access to lovingly raised animals that you can see from your driveway, you are very lucky. If you have the ability to dry-age beef and bake bread, you are very lucky. If you can’t go shake hands with the steer you eat and don’t have desire or space to slowly dry-age your meat, don’t worry, because we have useful burger information for every level of interest and devotion.
There is no “perfect,” but there is bad. Bad should be avoided if possible. (Trust me on this one.)
I have watched hamburgers be eaten by the very young and very old, by cowboys and vegans, by beautiful women and equally beautiful boys, mostly resulting in smiles and elation, occasionally total revulsion.
Which hamburger was the best? Almost all of them.
You have eaten hamburgers, too. At least one. You may have even enjoyed it. What did it taste like?
This book is for you.
Product details
- Publisher : Ten Speed Press; NO-VALUE edition (May 22, 2018)
- Language : English
- Hardcover : 240 pages
- ISBN-10 : 0399579265
- ISBN-13 : 978-0399579264
- Item Weight : 2.1 pounds
- Dimensions : 7.54 x 0.9 x 10.26 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #817,489 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #584 in Meat Cooking
- #667 in Burger & Sandwich Recipes
- #988 in Barbecuing & Grilling
- Customer Reviews:
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This book will be the burger boon to anyone looking to step up their burger game, professional or amateur.
Each recipe details exactly what you would need to know to make any one of the recipes that made KronnerBurger the best place to get a burger in the Bay Area.
If you've ever had the pleasure of eating at one of Chris' restaurants you know this chef has the meat to back up the burger.
Big thanks to CK for sharing his knowledge and enabling us to build better burgers.



