|Item Weight||52 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||21 x 44 x 11 inches|
|Item model number||13013|
|Manufacturer Part Number||13013|
|OEM Part Number||13013|
Other Sellers on Amazon
+ Free Shipping
+ Free Shipping
+ Free Shipping
CURT 13013 Class 3 Trailer Hitch
|Price:||$122.70 & FREE Shipping. Details|
|You Save:||$171.24 (58%)|
Want professional installation of this product?
- Handpicked pros
- Compare estimates and reviews
- Buy directly on Amazon
- Backed by Amazon's Happiness Guarantee
- Enter your model number to make sure this fits.
- Made with a vehicle-specific design for a custom fit
- Tested for safety in accordance with SAE J684
- Precisely welded for superior strength and fit
- Protected by a durable high-gloss black powder coat finish
- Co-cured in a rust-resistant liquid Bonderite coating
Frequently bought together
Customers who bought this item also bought
Compare to similar items
This item CURT 13013 Class 3 Trailer Hitch
|Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Item Dimensions||44 x 21 x 11 in||14 x 39 x 12.5 in||19.5 x 41.7 x 11.4 in||19.75 x 42 x 11.5 in||39 x 14.25 x 21.5 in||39 x 14.25 x 12.5 in|
The CURT class 3 trailer hitch is the most common type of trailer hitch installed on full-size pickup trucks and SUVs. It is also found on full-size cars, crossover SUVs, minivans and mid-size trucks. That is because the class 3 packs the punch of a heavyweight hitch while still staying light on its feet. This CURT class 3 hitch offers a gross trailer weight capacity of 5,000 lbs. and a comparable tongue weight capacity of 500 lbs. It is designed to be a custom-fit trailer hitch for certain years of the Toyota Tacoma (including X-Runner and Pre-Runner) (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). It features a square tube frame and comes with all necessary hardware for a complete installation.The 2" x 2" receiver tube opening of this class 3 hitch is able to accept a hitch-mounted accessory, such as a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a ball mount to tow most standard size trailers, including utility trailers, single-horse livestock trailers, boat trailers and large campers. One special feature about the class 3 that is not found in classes 1 or 2 is its compatibility with a weight distribution hitch. When used in combination with a WD hitch, this class 3's gross trailer weight capacity increases to 6,000 lbs. and the tongue weight capacity to 600 lbs. (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component).CURT class 3 trailer hitches are engineered to be strong and capable, having a quality steel frame and a solid finish. They are put through strenuous testing before being deemed ready for market and come with two coatings -- a liquid Bonderite coating and a powder coat in high-gloss black -- that cure together to form a strong resistance against rust, scratching, UV damage and other wear. Our hitches are our pride, and as such, we back them up with a limited lifetime warranty and a one-year finish warranty.
From the manufacturer
CURT Trailer Hitches
We offer a custom fit for nearly every vehicle
At CURT, we think every hitch should offer a vehicle-specific design, meaning seamless integration and a reliable connection for your next adventure.
But our standards don't stop at vehicle-specific
To truly let you Bring It, our custom hitches also come with 100% made-in-USA construction and a co-cured finish of liquid Bonderite, inside and out, and durable powder coat.
We make over 1,000 different hitch models
Our hitches come in five classes, offering a range of weight capacities and receiver tube sizes. For nearly any vehicle and any adventure, you can Bring It with CURT.
Key features of CURT hitches
- Vehicle-specific design for a custom fit every time
- Industry-leading rust, chip and UV-resistant finish
- Weight capacities ranging from 2,000 to 20,000 lbs.
- Receiver tube sizes available in 1 1/4", 2" and 2 1/2"
- Backed by a limited lifetime warranty
Manufactured to let you enjoy your passion
We use actual vehicles and cutting-edge software to develop hitch designs that are strong, functional and tailor-made to fit your unique make and model.
A combination of robotic welding and skilled manual welding ensures production efficiency, optimal strength, clean weld lines and a precise fit for each hitch.
For maximum protection, our hitches are mechanically descaled and co-cured in a liquid Bonderite undercoating, inside and out, and durable black powder coat finish.
Our hitches are not only made in America, but every design is rigorously tested for industry-leading safety and performance according to SAE J684 protocols.
|Receiver Tube||1 1/4"||1 1/4"||2"||2"||2" or 2 1/2"|
|Weight Distribution Compatible||✓||✓||✓|
|Powder Coat||High-gloss black||High-gloss black||High-gloss black||High-gloss black||Carbide black|
Discover the outdoors
Towing your camper or RV with a CURT hitch will leave you stress-free on your next outdoor adventure. Camping trips with family and friends build memories that last a lifetime. CURT offers the equipment needed to tow everything from teardrop trailers and popup campers to full-length travel trailers. Add even more adventure by utilizing the receiver tube of your hitch for a CURT hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier.
Selecting a trailer hitch
Whatever your lifestyle, choosing the right CURT trailer hitch for your vehicle is easy. Simply use your vehicle's year, make, model and style.
Customers who viewed this item also viewed
Top customer reviews
My install instructions on 1st gen Tacoma's (I apologize if I miss a step):
Tools needed or recommended: 19mm sockets, breaker bar, ratchet, WD40 or equivalent, heat gun (if you drive in heavily salted winters), impact tool (not necessary, but made things a hell of a lot easier), I forgot the size needed to remove the stock hitch ball from some Tacoma's, but if your hitch currently has that, you will need remove that or it will not clear. A floor jack and a friend, although I did it myself with just a floor jack.
1. Remove the license plate lights. Just twist them out of the bumper and tuck them out of the way.
2. Position a floor jack to catch the rear bumper so it does not fall when you remove the bolts.Remove the bumper. Bumper is held on by 4 19mm bolts. Two on each side. The two bolts closest to the front of the engine you can take it right out. The two rear one's, you have to hold the nut on the inside, otherwise it'll just keep spinning. If you live in a salted area, I would recommend WD40 the bolts generously a day or two before working on it. Also, be prepared to need a torch. I used the one's you just attach a small canister to. Even with a power air gun I needed some heat. You do not want to keep going at it if it is being stubborn. Bolts will break!
3. The bracket that holds the rear bumper to the truck can be removed from the bumper and HAS to be removed. I believe these were 19mm also. Again, soak it with PB Blaster/WD40. Again, I needed heat. Try to scrape any rusted parts and BUY anti rust spray like rustoleum.
4. If your current bumper has the stock ball hitch attached to it, remove it by undoing the huge nut holding it in place from the bottom. You might have to sawzall it or heat the hell out of this part. The nut will not clear the hitch if you leave it, at least for me it didn't.
5. Take the brackets you just removed and put the flange that sticks out in to the opening in the hitch, move the bumper to the hitch and connect the two rear bolts again, the one's the held the brackets to the rear bumper. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM. Leave a good amount of wiggle room. Do this to both sides of the brackets.
6. Use the floor jack to lift it in to place and bolt it back together for the remainder 4 bolts. With these 4 bolts tighten, now tighten the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the rear bumper. The bumper comes with a plate and bolt. It is easy to figure out where it goes by reading the instructions. It is essentially used to secure the bumper to the hitch.
7. Optional, but recommend spraying anti rust on the bolts.
8. Install rear license plate lights and you're good to go!
Hope this helps and please correct me if I'm wrong on anything or forgot something.
-The outside nuts that secure the bumper to the bumper bracket are welded on. I broke a socket (a cheap one, fortunately) trying to get them loose when it turns out the bolts go in from the inside. They came out with little persuasion.
-Similar to above, on the forward-most bolts securing the bumper brackets to the frame, the inner nuts are welded on. Turn the bolt from the outside.
-For the middle bolts on the bumper brackets, the nut is not welded. You'll need two 19mm sockets (I needed an 18" breaker bar).
-I lowered the spare tire about 6 inches to improve access. This proved unnecessary and don't help much. Don't waste your time.
-I used a steel brush to clean out the threads on all of the bolts I took out, which I think really helped them go in smooth when I put it all back together.
-Use a floor jack or something to support the hitch if you're working alone. It helps with aligning the holes.
-When reinstalling the bumper brackets, I used a pair of needle nosed vice-grip pliers to squeeze the hitch and the frame together. As hard as I tried, I could not get the gap on the little tab on the bumper bracket to fit over the frame and hitch. Once I squeezed them together, it slid right on.
-Leave all the bumper bracket and the hitch bolts loose until you've reinstalled the bumper to help with aligning the holes. Once you have the bumper secured, tighten away.
-Unless you're using air tools, you'll have to do most of the ratcheting by hand. I could only use my order impact wrench on a few bolts.
The fit was very good and the holes all lined up perfectly. I am impressed by the finish on the hitch, plus it's made in the USA. Its totally hidden expect for the 2" receiver:
Some notes - the way this is designed, there are two cutouts that the bumper mounts need to slip into from the side. My bumper mounts were unfortunately rusted to my bumper itself (old truck, New England winters) so I had to remove the bumper with the mounts attached. To that end, getting it back on was a bit tricker than it would have been if I could have removed both ends of the mounts (from the frame, and from the bumper).
My truck had the factory frame replacement recall done to it, so it may be part of the reason - but this did not 100% line up with the stock mounting holes. It took a little finessing with a rubber mallet to get in there correctly, and even then I had to drill out the rearmost mounting hole slightly. This basically sandwiches between the frame and the stock bumper mounts, so when you screw it back in you need everything to line up so that you can go through the bumper mount, then the Curt mount, then back into the frame.
All in all not too bad and certainly worth the DIY time vs. paying a local shop upwards of $300 for one installed.