|Item Weight||26 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||12 x 8 x 15 inches|
|Item model number||10730|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
Case of Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound - 12 Tubes
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This item Case of Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound - 12 Tubes
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|Sold By||West Coast Sound||TrademarkSound||TrademarkSound||Amazon.com||ATS Acoustics||TrademarkSound|
|Item Dimensions||8 x 12 x 15 in||8 x 12 x 15 in||—||2.38 x 96 x 0.5 in||—||—|
|Item Weight||26 lbs||—||15 lbs||1.1 lbs||—||100 lbs|
Green Glue is the simplest, most effective and affordable soundproofing product currently on the market for any sound proofing project. Green Glue can be used over any existing wall, floor or ceiling by simply adding another layer of material to reduce sound transfer. Just apply with a standard large size caulk gun in a random pattern for cost effective application. Green Glue has been tested in independent laboratories and has proven to be one the best sound proofing products available. Third party acoustical tests demonstrated a STC rating of 56 using green glue in a standard single stud wall with common drywall. Low Frequency sound isolation (not included in STC testing) was greatly improved over older techniques. Green Glue is also one of the few products that greatly reduces both, impact and airborne noise.
Top customer reviews
Green Glue may not be a miracle product, but when used appropriately , in accordance with it's design intent and within a "whole system design" build... it is pretty damn close... it works, as advertised, and represents a significant saving in terms of cost over older methods of achieving similar ends.... primarily, as it's hugely faster and easier to install consistently to a given standard, within the build process than Mass loaded vinyl is, and it also has superior performance in many areas. overall , this means it's cheaper to use than MLV, and in my experience, (over 25 years building studios) gives more consistent results .
All the negative comments left are clearly by people with no real understanding of the realities of soundproofing....
you cannot simply treat one surface and expect a great result, especially if the treatment is improperly applied. Sound travels in ALL directions , especially at low frequencies, and will find any and all routes from one space to another..
and attention to detail is critical.... for example, if you were to build a 3m x 3m wall across a room, and left a 1mm unsealed gap around the perimeter , you would have effectively done about the same damage to isolation behaviour as leaving about a 5 inch square hole in the middle of the wall..... , clearly you'd expect the hole to let a lot of sound through..... well, so does that 1mm gap.....
recessed wall mounted electrical services , without back boxes on them...... guess what, that's a hole in your soundproofing.....
when applying drywall panels, all edges should be sealed , so that when you butt one panel against the next, an air tight seal is formed....
drywall panel joins should never overlap from one layer to the next..... they should be installed staggered..... to reduce the chances of perforation of the boundary layer. (and tapered edge boards are thinner and lighter at those points, and voids can easily be created, reducing the effective isolation mass in that region of wall..
When using resilient channel mounting for drywall , the right length screws MUST be used to avoid short circuiting the RC , if you screw through in to the substructure... you totally disable the resilient channel's spring effect.... by introducing a fixed point of rigid linkage. do that , and you may as well not bother with the resilient channel.....
Sound travels along ventilation ducting...... shared air-con systems inevitably introduce transmission routes between rooms.
Sound travels through walls, between floors, along the mass layer..... if your wall layers are common to, or hard bonded to the floor above/below.... and the ceiling/floor is touching the wall.... footfall noise will be transmitted very efficiently to the floor below no matter what you do to the ceiling, or the floor..... floating floors should be installed such that the perimeter of the floor never touches the walls , or door frames, or skirting boards, or ..... anything else....
if you have not fitted a floating floor above the room in question, then structural borne noise will be an issue no matter what you do to the ceiling, this is not the fault of any of the products used, but in the design of the build, and implementation of the design by the contractor.
these are just a few of the many many pitfalls i commonly encounter in self build projects, and sub standard "professional" jobs ..... any and all of which would significantly reduce the level of effectiveness of the attempt to create isolation...
there are dozens, even hundreds of other little snags that people overlook by mistake, , or are simply ignorant of altogether , and any of them can make it seem like you wasted all that money....
Regrettably there are many contractors offering "specialist" sound proofing services to the domestic market, who in reality have no more clue than the next bodge job builder..... they just found a niche market they can charge more for substandard services in.....
My advice , is find a contractor with a good reputation for building recording studios, broadcast studios, rehearsal studios, and live sound venues.... and get client references.... and actually follow them up.....
1) they may not be as expensive as you might think
2) there's a much better chance they have a clue what they're doing.
but be prepared for some unpleasant truths.....
you cannot simply chuck a bit of stuff at one party wall or floor , or ceiling, and expect total silence.... , to quote scotty "ye cannae break the laws of physics" no matter how tight your budget, or how little you want the work to intrude in to your schedule....
Readers also please note,
I am UK based, and work primarily in the UK and mainland Europe.... (although i have also worked in the US ) and I do this for a living....
Which means, regrettably, I do not give free advice on individual projects.... that's a paid consultancy role. If you want to hire me , by all means contact me. (maxtech.audio@me"dot"com)
It also means, sorry but i cannot generally recommend individual local contractors in specific local areas of the US.... or Australia, or Brazil, or indeed , anywhere else in the world outside of the UK and western mainland Europe. Simply because most often, I do not know of any..... My guidelines above generally hold true, do some research on who provides such services regionally to the professional audio industry...... US based readers should also perhaps look up a chap by the name of "Rod Gervais", who does largely what I do, but is US based.
Two layers of 5/8 sheetrock green glued together, along with the extra thick Ultratouch Denim insulation, knocked a 110dB low E on a bass down to 55dB.
Be sure to use thick beads (like a slug) on the 5/8th drywall, thin beads are not as effective per manufacturer guideline. There are a lot of YouTube videos with guys using GreenGlue like silly string on the sheetrock, again, thick random beads, and 2 tubes per 4x8 sheet. More than 2 tubes won't make a difference, and less is ineffective.
I've used this to sound proof shared walls on 1950's duplex...blew in cellulose insulation and then used 5/8th Sheetrock on each wall with green glue. Sound transfer is about 1/2 to 3/4 less than what it was. High tones and low tones (foot steps) are still audible between walls. Nonetheless, I have a crawl space and shared attic. This product will help between walls. If you need more noise control, re-sheetrock walls and ceiling (if attic is shared between walls). Given the price of GreenGlue, I opted for just walls and I'm happy with the results. Blowing in cellulose was also a big help and contributed to the products effectiveness.