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Catskill Craftsmen Super Slab with Finger Grooves
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- Dimensions: 20-Inches Wide by 20-Inches Deep by 3-Inches Thick
- End Grain with Oiled Finish- End grain will not dull knives
- Finger slots for easier handling
- Made in the USA
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|Sold By||Amazon.com||GSM Sales||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com|
|Item Dimensions||20 x 20 x 3 in||15 x 25.4 x 3.6 in||14.5 x 19 x 2 in||18 x 18 x 3 in||14 x 14 x 3 in||15 x 20 x 2.25 in|
Catskill's "Gourmet" collection offers a wide range of chopping blocks for every occasion. Blocks include special features such as rounded corners, deep blended juice grooves, wooden ball feet with rubber pads, and laminated domestic hardwood in a variety of grain patterns for durability, toughness and beauty. All have oiled finishes. A Butcher's Block for the Counter. Over 30 pounds of rugged beauty. The ultimate end grain Domestic Hardwood Chopping Block for serious chefs everywhere.
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***UPDATE*** I contacted the manufacturer who sent me a brand new board immediately, no questions asked. They were courteous and quick to respond. This board is beautiful and has no issues whatsoever. I was very impressed with their customer service. Well done.
"Visually, this is the most amazing cutting board I've seen and HAD to have it. However, a board of this purpose, weight and price should be of excellent workmanship. Very unfortunately, it is not. The bottom of the board was cut unevenly and wobbles on my otherwise even counter. Meaning, when you are working ON the board, it pretty much spins like a 35# TOP so that instead of being a valuable tool, its an irritant. The board is featured as reversible which is important to me, so that adding feet is not an option. Many times, during a large meal prep or an instructional class that I teach, flipping the board midway to a clean surface is necessary. For that reason, the board was returned. I will likely reorder in hopes to receive a correctly-cut, level and stable board. Since this problem is mentioned in other reviews it appears 'quality control' lets this slip by. Very thankfully, Amazon covered the return shipping charges - you rock Amazon! Its beyond me why anyone would shop anywhere else. In the event a level, stable board arrives, I'll happily change the rating to five stars because its a fantastic beautiful piece that I believe would last a lifetime."
**May, 2014 Update. The SuperSlab was indeed re-ordered.
First board was splitting right in the center ... the board was immediately replaced by Amazon, next day!
Second board was warped, again wobbling. The hand-grooves were also cut into the board on the wrong side. Immediately replaced by Amazon, next day.
Third board ... would surely be the charm, right? WRONG. Warped and wobbling, and two BLACK pieces of wood smack in the center, both sides.
I was done. A board costing $115 should be of excellent quality.
BTW, I did speak directly with Catskills, who were incredibly helpful, saying they would hand-pick a perfect board. Unfortunately, the price would reflect that service. Amazon's price and free-shipping option just can't be beat.
So ... tried a replacement one more time. And I'm so glad I did. The board was replaced immediately by Amazon, AND THE MOST AMAZING BEAUTIFUL BOARD ARRIVED!! Level and stable as a rock, gorgeous wood, hand grooves carved correctly so that the slats go across your cutting surface as they should (us food photographers, we're a tough crowd). THIS IS AN AMAZING PIECE that you'll cherish for a lifetime. All the accolades already mentioned in other reviews are exactly true.
After oiling it, this baby came to LIFE!! The contrasting woods, the smooth velvety finish. I couldn't wait to put this 20x20 inches of gorgeousness to work. Sliced up my onions and herbs ... and was braced to see its virgin marks. But there wasn't one. This is seriously the pride of my prep kitchen, and will be photographed again and again in my blog at Who Moved My Coconut Oil (dot com).
That said, the reason I bought this board was because my old Tree & Co 18x14 MODE board split...AGAIN (it was actually delivered split, and I fixed it...but now it's split again in the same place). I normally season my boards with mineral oil on a daily basis once or twice a day for a few weeks before using, then on a weekly basis with my own board butter formula (2 parts choji oil, one part beeswax, one part coconut oil). So with that said, I was looking to do something different with this board, and since I wanted a darker, more red colored board anyhow (I loved the color of my MODE board)...I went a somewhat controversial direction and used tung oil (WATCO brand salad bowl finish was my base) thinned with equal parts low odor mineral spirits to season it. To this I added Minwax Wood Stain (Red Mahogony 225) until the color was what I wanted. Keep in mind...the idea here is NOT to put a layer of varnish between the wood and the food. It is to put a layer of varnish between each strand of wood and all of the other strands to act as a barrier for moisture that's trying to penetrate the board. The wood surface is still 100% in contact with the food, and so cuts won't ruin any 'seal' the varnish might have made in another type of application, and will still self heal to a large degree. This means it won't trap moisture or food, and can't 'flake' off. This kind of finish is supposed to last YEARS on an end grain board before possibly needing to be reapplied.
My method was simple:
- Sand to 180 grit.
- Mix varnish and mineral spirits in equal parts. Add in stain to suit, remembering that a little goes a long way.
- Using nitrile gloves, apply stain/varnish mixture to the top of the board with a soft cotton cloth, until it is no longer absorbing easily (about 4-5 minutes). Wipe off excess.
- Let cure 8hrs or so.
- Reapply mixture for three coats. After the third coat has cured for 8hrs, begin applying the first of two coats using JUST the clear varnish thinned with mineral spirits. The idea is to use the clear fluid to 'push' the color deeper into the board, providing depth and a protective coat between the pigment and your food surface. SOME people claim the stain is dangerous...I personally think there's things that are worse for you in processed food, once the stain and varnish has cured (the varnish is absolutely food safe, and the rep I talked to at Minwax told me the stain 'technically' is as well...but would not officially go on record of course), and that in this small of a dose, it's not going to be relevant anyhow. Regardless, the layer of clear varnish and the top coat of board butter should be more than enough protection against the infinitesimal bit of stain that might in some way make it to the food.
- After the second coat of clear, wipe THOROUGHLY, and let cure until you can no longer smell ANY trace of the mineral spirits, and then add a couple days on top of that to be safe.
- Sand to your desired finish. I like ultra smooth boards (this helps repel water also), and sand quickly from 400 grit, through 600, 800, and 1000 grits. I then wet the board lightly to pull up whiskers, and sand with the 1000 until the board will no longer whisker. From there you can use as is, or coat with the board conditioner of your choice. As I said I make my own board butter, and intend to use it to provide that 'healthy board' luster, to bring out the color and depth in the grain, and as an added layer of protection against bacteria and moisture.
The pictures below go in order, and since I can't caption them directly, I'll add descriptions here:
1, 2 - The board as delivered, still in the packaging.
3, 4, 5 - With my old split Tree & Co. 18x14 board, as well as a 265mm gyuto (10.5" edge length chef's knife) for scale.. This thing is monstrous.
6 - Materials for sealing.
7, 8, 9 - First coats of the varnish mixture. You can see the color has only changed a tiny bit. You can also see the varnish seeping through the back after just a minute or two of application. After this coat I added a bit more stain to the mixture as I wanted more color.
10, 11 - Second application of varnish/stain mixture.
12 - Third and final application of color mixture. You can see the board is still wet as it's being applied. I also wanted to mention that my process for the back was very simple. Before putting the board up to cure after each coat, I would simply used whatever was left on the cloth to wipe down the back. It was constantly weeping wicked through stain from the front anyhow, as well as rolling down from the sides...so mostly it was just a matter of smoothing out what was there.
13 - After the final two coats of only the clear had been applied, wiped off, and dried to the touch.
14 - In the kitchen under the warm flood lights (my shop uses 5k lighting lol). Keep in mind that the board butter has not been applied yet, so this color will darken a bit as well as gain some depth and 'glow' of its own from the oils and waxes. Pictured for scale are a 150mm (6" edge) petty knife, a 120mm (4.75" edge) petty knife, and a 100mm (4" edge) paring knife. You can see the color is MUCH nicer in regards to matching my kitchen counters and cabinets.
I will be updating this review as time goes on in order to keep you guys informed on the board's durability (or lack of!), as well as the durability of the finish itself. As it sits though, I highly recommend this board!
Most recent customer reviews
And if you take the time to finish it out,
Sand it down a little more,"you do not have to..Read more