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Michael Ruhlman

Brian Polcyn

Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing Hardcover – November 17, 2005

by Michael Ruhlman (Author), Brian Polcyn (Author), Thomas Keller (Foreword)

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Charcuterie—a culinary specialty that originally referred to the creation of pork products such as salami, sausages, and prosciutto—is true food craftsmanship, the art of turning preserved food into items of beauty and taste. Today the term encompasses a vast range of preparations, most of which involve salting, cooking, smoking, and drying. In addition to providing classic recipes for sausages, terrines, and pâtés, Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn expand the definition to include anything preserved or prepared ahead such as Mediterranean olive and vegetable rillettes, duck confit, and pickles and sauerkraut. Ruhlman, coauthor of The French Laundry Cookbook, and Polcyn, an expert charcuterie instructor at Schoolcraft College in Livonia, Michigan, present 125 recipes that are both intriguing to professionals and accessible to home cooks, including salted, airdried ham; Maryland crab, scallop, and saffron terrine; Da Bomb breakfast sausage; mortadella and soppressata; and even spicy smoked almonds. 50 line drawings

Print length

416 pages
Language

English
Publisher

W. W. Norton & Company
Publication date

November 17, 2005
Dimensions

8.5 x 1.2 x 10.3 inches
ISBN-10

0393058298
ISBN-13

978-0393058291
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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Starred Review. Without the faintest hint of apology, Ruhlman and Polcyn present an arsenal of recipes that take hours, and sometimes days, to prepare; are loaded with fat; and, if ill-prepared, can lead to botulism. The result is one of the most intriguing and important cookbooks published this year. Ruhlman (The Soul of a Chef) is a food poet, and the pig is his muse. On witnessing a plate of cold cuts in Italy, he is awed by "the way the sunlight hit the fat of the dried meats, the way it glistened, the beauty of the meat." He relates and refines the work of Polcyn, a chef-instructor at a college in Livonia, Mich., who butchers a whole hog "every couple weeks for his students." Together, they make holy the art of stuffing a sausage, the brining of a corned beef and the poaching of a salted meat in its own fat. An extensive chapter on pâtés and terrines is entitled "The Cinderella Meat Loaf" and runs the gamut from exotic Venison Terrine with Dried Cherries to hearty English Pork Pie with a crust made from both lard and butter. And while there's no shortage of lyricism, science plays an equally important role. Everyone knows salt is a preservative, for example, but here we learn exactly how it does its job. And a section on safety issues weighs the dangers of nitrites and explains the difference between good white mold and the dangerous, green, fuzzy stuff. Line drawings.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Review

Charcuterie is an important and definitive work which deserves to stand proudly and forever in every serious cook's kitchen. -- Anthony Bourdain, author of Kitchen Confidential

Charcuterie provides an open window on the delicious possibilities available to the home cook and professional chef alike. -- Paul Bertolli, author of Cooking By Hand

Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn have opened the door for home cooks everywhere to experience the thrill of making charcuterie. -- Mario Batali, chef/owner of Babbo Restaurant, New York

Never has the art of charcuterie been handled this thoroughly for the home cook. -- Lynne Rossetto Kasper, host of American Public Media's national radio series The Splendid Table®

The best techniques to cure, smoke and preserve meat in the tradition of the best charcutiers out there. -- Eric Ripert, chef/co-owner of Le Bernardin Restaurant, New York

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ W. W. Norton & Company; 1st edition (November 17, 2005)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 416 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0393058298
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0393058291
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 2 pounds
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 8.5 x 1.2 x 10.3 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #296,993 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #307 in Meat Cooking
- #414 in Canning & Preserving (Books)

Customer Reviews:
458 ratings

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Michael Ruhlman
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Michael Ruhlman is the author or co-author of more than 25 books—non-fiction, fiction, and memoir—the majority of which are on food and cooking, including the bestselling "The Soul of a Chef," "The French Laundry Cookbook" with Thomas Keller, "Charcuterie" with Brian Polcyn, "Ruhlman's Twenty," which won both James Beard and IACP awards, and most recently, "Grocery: The Buying and Selling of Food in America." He lives in New York City.
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Brian Polcyn
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Brian Polcyn is chef/owner of Five Lakes Grill in Milford, Michigan. He is the co-author of "Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing."
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Top reviews from the United States

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Matthew

Easily my favorite culinary book purchase ever!

Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2013

Verified Purchase

This book taught me much about one of my favorite types of food. I highly recommend this book to anyone even vaguely interested in the fine art of charcuterie, you will not be disappointed. And, not only is the technique and theory presented in the book interesting and informative, but the recipes are spot on as well. In fact, this evening I am starting another 20 lb batch of chicken and sun-dried tomato sausages made from the recipe in the book. After grilling a bunch of these tasty chicken sausages for a party, they were so popular that no one hardly even looked at the store-bought Johns*nville brats we made as a back-up option. Now my friends and family have been pestering me to make more and give them a few packages to put in their freezers.

In summary, Charcuterie is simple, fun to read, and highly informative without being overly technical. I plan to give this as a gift to several friends who I know would be into some home curing and sausage making. Excellent!!!

Oh, and a quick bit of advice that I learned the hard way. If you plan to make any homemade sausages, a kitchen-aid works great as a meat grinder, but do not try to use it to stuff your sausages. Save yourself hours of frustration and just buy a decent vertical sausage stuffer. I bought an LEM 5lb stuffer (~$140, but there are certainly cheaper options that would probably be fine too) and now I can easily stuff a 10lb batch of sausage in about 10 minutes, whereas I spent around 2 hours cursing and fighting with my kitchen-aid to stuff the same amount. Also, a vacuum sealer is a very nice way to preserve all your tasty sausages... Anyway, I hope that's helpful :-)

10 people found this helpful

Helpful

S Berg

BACON!!! Seriously, he teaches you how to make BACON.

Reviewed in the United States on December 6, 2013

Verified Purchase

This is a great resource if you're looking to get into grinding your own sausages and / or curing your own meats. It's well written, providing a nice blend of personal experience, science and history.

The basics are well documented and the recipes (that I have tried) have all come out very well. My personal favorites are the smoked andullle and taso ham. He starts easy and basic, then takes you further down the path until you're amazing your friends and family with meat care packages the likes of which they've never seen.

As for the bacon, let me say that I now only make bacon that I can't otherwise buy. Trying to make a maple or pepper bacon at home, when you can buy a good (perhaps not the best) quality bacon at Costco or your local grocery store for under $5/lb is not worth it in my book. While not difficult, it just takes a long time. On the other hand, I used his technique and simple instructions to make an excellent savory bacon that is unlike anything else I've had. Think of it like brewing beer... you probably shouldn't get into it to save money or to duplicate a widely available commercial beer, but if you want to give your own twist to a style or to be able to proudly say "I made this", then it's worth your time and effort.

2 people found this helpful

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smblkc

One of the best charcuterie books out there.

Reviewed in the United States on May 18, 2013

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I bought this book in order to broaden my knowledge on the topic of charcuterie. After having received it many moons ago, I have found myself using it as my go-to reference whenever I delve into new charcuterie territory. While it is full of recipes, it is also an excellent reference for those looking to learn the art. However, I am not so sure that it would be the best book to start with for someone who has never delved into this method of food preparation. The reason being is that the authors, who are both extremely competent in writing as well as cooking, occasionally suffer from the same problem that many formally trained chefs and cooks do: They sometimes over-complicate recipes.

The "over-complication" isn't necessary a bad thing, as it demonstrates the "proper" (read: the way that they were trained) method to prepare the foods. However, if someone is just starting out in charcuterie, they may find some of the recipes and techniques a bit daunting. Regardless, I would recommend that anyone who wants to become a home charcutier should have this book at their disposal.

One person found this helpful

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Sic_Rob

What a great and well written book

Reviewed in the United States on February 18, 2014

Verified Purchase

I bought this book out of curiosity. I am always interested in trying something new. I was considering making my own salami. When I received the book it got put to the side and as life has a way of spinning us out of control I never got back to it until about 2 weeks ago. The instructions written in this book are very easy to understand and folow. I never thought I would think of making my own bacon. In my opinion, making home made bacon is one of easiest (if not the easiest) recipes in this book. I gave it a try and everyone of my friends and family that tasted it, loved it. Anhone that happened to walk into my house while I was frying the finished product made a possitive comment. I've made it twice already and next is Panchetta if I can ever locally find Juniper berries.

If you want to buy 1 cookbook about curing your own anything, this is where you should start. You probably won't grow out of this book for a very long time.

I hope this helps someone.

One person found this helpful

Helpful

Rustypipe

Great recipes, unusable index

Reviewed in the United States on December 6, 2012

Verified Purchase

On the positive side, this book is useful for both beginners and experienced cooks interested in charcuterie. The recipes are well laid out, and the background information is sufficiently detailed to be truly useful. The passion of the authors is evident, and some of the sausage recipes, in particular, are not usually found in standard works on the subject. An excellent example is the Country Venison Sausage.

Items that need improvement are:
There is cross-referencing from recipes to technique sections, where the technique is at odds with the specifics of the recipe.
Also, the index is absolutely useless in the Kindle book - headings and subsections are indistinguishable due to lack of indentation, and there is no hyperlinking. Obviously page number references are pointless. This is a serious shortcoming with the Kindle edition, and I sincerely hope it can be rectified in future Kindle editions of this otherwise excellent book.

One person found this helpful

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Top reviews from other countries

BlackBrigand

Absolutely the best Charcuterie guide.

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on April 6, 2020

Verified Purchase

One of those volumes that all professionals should have on their bookshelf. Unfortunately a US publication which has never been translated into English so you need to keep your conversion tables handy. This new edition has got metric measures but if you buy your meat ready cut from the butcher you may need to ask him if you want American cuts of meat.

Peter B

Clear, Informative and Interesting

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on October 4, 2010

Verified Purchase

I bought this book after reading a number of recommendations on the Internet, when I wanted to make my own smoked bacon. It has not disappointed. Firstly, it is very interesting to read. Secondly, it is informative and comprehensive, with clear curing and smoking instructions for the budding home charcutier. It is mostly about pork, but also includes poultry and some beef and vegetables, covering sausages, pates, salamis, hams, bacons, and much more, with some recipes. My first two slabs of dry-cured bacon were excellent, and I smoked them in my Weber kettle barbecue. Now I want to have a go at hams, rillettes and lots of other good-sounding things - it could become my new fun and satisfying hobby!

10 people found this helpful

Martin Glynn

Excellent coffee-table guide for the budding home charcutier

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on May 18, 2014

Verified Purchase

This is a nicely laid out, attractive book, which contains clear instructions and nice recipes. The recipes themselves are, for the most part, traditional and unpretentious. Put simply, they are tried, tested and they work, the end products being extremely tasty. I'd definitely recommend this book and it's become my go-to for all things preserved, smoked and salted. Don't buy it if you like lots of big, glossy close-up photos though; it doesn't have any.

JamJam

Indepth and informative.

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on November 7, 2010

Verified Purchase

When I first opened the book, I was a little disappointed. I am so used to glossy photos of everything in cookery books that I expected the same here. I got over my initial surprise and began reading. What a wonderful book. There is an indepth description of each recipe, and how and where they came from. Then there are selective sketches beautifully done on various things from terrine tins to meat grinders. I find it has the warm feel of a book written in the early/mid part of the 20th century. And I especially like the generous section at the back explaining various sauces which are vital to making the meats even more special. This book is well worth buying!

5 people found this helpful

R. Partos

The last book on curing you'll ever buy

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on October 31, 2013

Verified Purchase

This is a brilliant book.
I bought it to find out more about curing bacon but have now been distracted by the sausage recipes, confit, smoking - even preserved lemons.
Every recipe is clear with lots of background information. It has lovely little hand-drawn illustrations which are very becoming with such a traditional subject matter.
My only minor quibble is that for reference I'd have liked to have seen photos of what the finished products are supposed to look like.
However, that is a minor point and doesn't detract from what a hugely comprehensive piece of work this is.
Destined to become a classic!

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