|Item Weight||4 ounces|
|Package Dimensions||8.1 x 7.8 x 1.6 inches|
|Item model number||8035|
|Manufacturer Part Number||8035|
|OEM Part Number||GM x27.168|
GM Chevrolet Silverado Stepper Motor Repair Kit By Dr.speedometer (6 motor kit) - X27 168 - Fits All 03, 04, 05, 06 Chevy Silverados, Tahoes, Yukons, Suburbans +
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- #1 RATED GM STEPPER MOTOR REPAIR KIT - Set of 6 Genuine Switec OEM GM Stepper Motors, part number x27.168 (not aftermarket black type). Most GM's have six gauges and you'll need one motor for each gauge in your instrument cluster to complete the job. While you're in there you may as well replace all the stepper motors because they're all guaranteed to go out eventually. Once one goes out it's not long before the rest go too!
- COMPLETE KIT - Includes 6 motors, correct solder, OEM lights and needle removal tool. Fits ALL 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006 Chevrolet GMC Silverados, Suburbans, Tahoes, Trailblazers, Yukons and many more listed below
- WHY BUY AFTERMARKET PARTS when you can get these genuine OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) GM stepper motors right here on Amazon? These are the very latest revised and updated GM factory stepper motors specifically designed to be a 100% cure for the common problems seen 2003-2006 General Motors vehicles such as: sticky needle movement, jumpy readings, dead gauges, gauges that ratchet up or down, gauges pegged out to the left or right of the dial and more.
- OEM PARTS - Produced for General Motors in Switzerland by Juken Swiss Technologies these Switec GM stepper motors are of the utmost quality and meet stringent international ISO 9001 quality standards. When it comes to delicate electronics it pays to get the highest quality parts the first time. You don't want to have to do this job twice due to cheap aftermarket parts failing on you!
- DIRECT FIT - Direct replacement for the older and faulty XC5168, X15168 and X25168 stepper motors that came in millions of GM vehicles produced from 03 04 05 and 06. These X27 168s have been redesigned for maximum reliability and quiet operation.
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Are your gauges stuck, dead, sticky or jumpy?
This set of 6 brand new genuine OEM X27 168 GM stepper motors is for the repair of ALL 03-06 GM/Chevrolet Silverado, Sierra, Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon, Tahoe, Trailblazer and many others listed below. Also includes 4 free OEM light bulbs and needle removal tool!
This set is enough to repair all the gauges in a 6 gauge instrument cluster such as a Silverado 1500 and many others.
These stepper motors are for the repair of the speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure gauge, transmission temperature gauge, battery voltage gauge, water temperature gauge or fuel gauge.
PERFECT IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING:• Dead, jumpy, sticky, erratic gauge movement
• Gauges pegged out to the left or right
• Speedometer showing too fast or too slow
• Fuel gauge reading wrong
These stepper motors are a direct replacement for the XC5.168, X25.168 and X15.168 commonly found in 2003-2006 GM instrument clusters including (but not limited to) the following automobiles:
• H2 HUMMER
• MONTE CARLO
Important Note: To receive the complete kit with OEM parts you must order from seller Up_Next_Products - no other seller is authorized to sell Dr.Speedometer brand repair parts - incomplete/incorrect orders sold by counterfeit sellers can not be warrantied. Up_Next_Products ships all orders from the USA.
My wife's mechanic quoted $800 to replace her instrument cluster. With Dr. Speedometers kit I was able to repair the speedometer in one morning! Rick G., Detroit, MI
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The fork pry tool works well to remove the needles without damage to either the face or the needles themselves and can later be used for a variety of prying tasks. The only other thing you will need is a desoldering device, either a pump or braid. I use a pump personally and it works perfectly on the larger leads of these motors.
Replacement is about an hour, if you are already proficient at soldering. I would use some painters tape and mark where the old motors bottom out as it makes installation a one step process, and was perfectly accurate. Many videos on how to do this.
The cluster has a total of 11 illumination bulbs, so the 4 included won't repair a completely dark cluster, but are an added bonus if you have a few that are out.
The Stepper Motors were simple. To keep all the Needles Calibrated before you pull them with the tool. Turn them right some and then back all the way to the left until they stop. Don't force it yet. Use some tape, I used blue painters tape to stick under the needle and then mark the location it's pointing at!!! Do it for each one then pull the needles using the tool. When your ready to place them back on, You can Push them on all the way and then turn to the right a bit and then all the way to the left until it stops. It won't be lined up and way off, so carefully force it to continue to turn to the left and when you get close to your mark, carefully move it to line it right back up. If you go a bit to far, you can continue to spin it all the way around Counter Clockwise once again and try to hit the mark you made. It might take you a few try's. You can feel when it's turning from the gears or it's his it's stop and now the needle is turning on the shaft of that stepper motor. Look on Youtube for examples of doing this. This should keep you dead on. I had 4 of my 6 stepper motors not working. I did this and unlike most, I do have a Pro Scanner I was able to hook up and test the results. See my RPM is correct. Test my fuel gauge anywhere from Empty to full. Speedo is simple as it should be on Zero at a dead stop. Same with Temp and whatnot.
I used a Desoldering Iron. In fact i used this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJSG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 and it worked great and made it a real snap. The Wire on the solder connections were bent in a bit, but I could put the hold of the iron onto the wire enough to heat it in a couple seconds, and bend it straight and then suck or the solder really well. They all came out easy. Then I put all the news ones onto the board and they'll stay in place and then solder the new ones all in at once. At this point and put the board on the back panel and then plugged it in because I wanted to check and make sure all the lights work. The ones around the gauges should all work. There's a few others like the turn signals that are higher that won't be on until you use them. So just because they may be OFF doesn't mean they're bad. It's clear when a gauge as 2 lights on each side and one of them is off, that's a bad light.
That's what do nice about this kit. Throwing in 4 bulbs came in handy for me as I had 2 that were bad and I didn't even know it. So that was a big plus. The new solder you also get in the kit and more then enough to get the job done and then some. The tool to pop off the needles worked great and the Stepper motors were packaged well. I didn't have any bent pins or nothing. Paid a little more for this kit, but was worth it in the end for me.
I know some people have just pulled the needles off and said it would auto calibrate, NO! It doesn't If you don't use the tape and mark how the needles are pointed on the old ones, they won't be right. Unless you have a Professional scanner like I do where you can adjust the needles to what they should be from what the computer is saying, you'll be off!!! This is a simple step. Turn the needles to the right to get out of your way laying the tape down and then turn to the left (Counter Clockwise) until it stops. You can feel and know where the stop point is. It may be close to the zero point on the gauge, but not right on. Even the Speedo will not be on 0 MPH when off. It'll be under it and when you power up, move to zero if you placed it on the mark you made. If you didn't make the mark and just placed it on ZERO, when you power up it would then be above it. This is exactly what would happen with everything else. Your RPM, FUEL, everything else could end up reading higher then they really are. The ONLY one most people would be able to fix right is the Speedo to get it to say zero at a dead stop. Spend the couple minutes and tape and mark locations. The Needles are NOT going to auto Calibrate and point where they are suppose to. You you watch a youtube video and a person doesn't tape and mark and just pulls the needles off, That's not the video to watch and the person is clueless. His gauge is not reading right. It may be close, but it's not right.