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Chrome Framed Shower Door Replacement Drip Rail with Vinyl Sweep - 32" Long
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Replacement Drip Rail with Vinyl Sweep For Framed Shower Doors.
Easily attaches to the bottom of framed shower doors, using pre-applied mounting tape. The Replacement Drip Rail and one inch Vinyl Sweep offer an excellent solution to help deflect water back into the shower enclosure, without detracting from the look of your shower.
Material: Anodized Aluminum
Finish: Bright Chrome
Length: 32 inches
NOTE: Clean adhesion surface with alcohol to remove any oil. Failure to clean surface prior to installation may cause tape to release.
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Things you need to know about before you install the new drip rail.
1. I cut the new rail to exact size of the old rail, but I wish I could have made it longer by 1/4 inch. - give yourself extra length
2. Use silicon on the top and side of the rail where it meets the door frame. This is needed so that water doesn't seep into the adhesive.
3. Use a razor blade to slice off part of the rubber seal. My seal kept rubbing a lot against the outer door frame - very tight to close door. See attached pictures of NEW rail installed
4. You really need a couple screws to screw the rail into the door frame. Or else, the adhesive tape will just give out and rail will fall off when you keep opening/closing the door. The rubber seal will keep catching the bottom of the door frame, and too much pressure will pull the rail away from door. I used two #4 x 3/8 inch sheet metal screws.
5. The rail should sit at a slight angle so that the water flows/drains out.
Overall, after two weeks, all is holding ok. If necessary, I may drill a third hole towards the middle of the rail.
I cleaned the shower bottom with ammonia, then alcohol, and finally with carburetor cleaner. I let it dry for several hours. Then I cut the fitting about an inch too short -- "measure twice, then mess it up". I installed the bottom sweep before it went on the door, having applied a few drops of WD40 to the leading edge. It was a precise fit, and a little difficult to work in there. I cleaned up WD40 residue, hoping not to foul the sticky tape. I experimented with the channel plug on the cutoff, and realized I needed to install it also before the sweep went into place.
I climbed in the shower, experimented with spacing, and installed it from in there. Looking good right now -- a few days of showering will tell the tale. I'm planning to secure with a few screws if everything is okay, or buy a replacement and succeed in cutting it to the correct length. I have high hopes either way.
Two notes for using this:
1) measure twice, for sure. It’s so important that this fits just right.
2) clean and dry the surface you’re connecting this to.
Cut the metal with a hacksaw with fine teeth, then use some fine sandpaper or a fingernail emery board to smooth any edges. We trimmed the vinyl sweep so that it stuck out about a quarter inch both ends of the metal. Use a little soapy water if you find it hard to thread the vinyl sweep into the track, just avoid the tape. After installation, we put a bead of silicone caulking over the top edge to further protect the tape from water and mold. One thing we didn't do so well was to put a distinctive tilt toward the door hinge, so that water runs out of the track and into your shower. Be sure to do that so water doesn't puddle out onto your bathroom door. We need to use a finger to sweep the water out of the track before we open the door, but that's because we didn't tilt the drip rail as much as we thought we needed to. Finally, the installation is really an art, and I can't emphasize enough that you need to practice positioning BEFORE you pull off the tape backing. You have to tilt the rail enough to allow water to drip out the door hinge end, but not so much that the vinyl sweep doesn't cover the bottom of the opposite end. You have to position the height of the rail enough so that the vinyl sweep keeps water away from the gap at the bottom of the door, but not so low that the sweep gets stuck under the door when you close the door. A helper is recommended, so that you have someone who can open/close the door while you are practicing placement of the rail. A helper also can steady the door while you apply the tape to the door for the final installation.