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The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest Paperback – July 16, 1999
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From Library Journal
-?Stephanie Papa, Baltimore Cty. Circuit Court Law Lib.
Copyright 1997 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
Top Customer Reviews
All of the different Everest books offer slightly different versions of the same events. This probably shouldn't surprise anybody, considering the effects of altitude and extreme stress on memory. I generally give Krakauer the benefit of the doubt over the other books, though, because he was the only author who took detailed notes while he was on the mountain (a widely respected reporter and mountaineer, he was sent to Everest specifically to document the 1996 climbing season).Read more ›
While ITA is a first-person account, TC is written from a third person POV, with long passages of Boukreev recounting the events and his impressions of the events of May 1996 (translated from Russian). What comes through most is Boukreev's wish to clear his name. Having read both books, I believe that Mr. Boukreev has accomplished his goal. He did save several clients of Fischer's expedition and assisted several of the climbers from Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants expedition. Although he was not able to rescue Scott Fischer, neither were Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa or Ed Viesturs and Todd Burleson. It seems clear that Fischer succumbed to high-altitude cerebral edema.
What is most amazing is how lucky the Mountain Madness expedition was. The early sections recounts the logistical problems the team faced, including problems obtaining adequate supplies of oxygen, and the toll they must have taken on Fischer. However, the only casualty of the Mountain Madness expedition was Fischer himself. In contrast, Adventure Consultants lost their leader, Hall, guide Andy Harris, and clients Doug Hansen and Yasuko Namba.
In terms of readability, I believe ITA's first-person view makes it a more gripping account. Boukreev's book is too obvious an attempt to refute Krakauer. (The article Krakauer initially wrote for "Outside" must have been more critical than the book because I don't recall the latter particularly assigning blame to Boukreev.Read more ›
This is a poorly written account that is oftentimes confusing. It has none of the clarity of prose found in Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". It is, however, an important chronicle from someone who was there on Everest, and who had a pivotal role in the tragic events. Boukreev provides an insider's view of the Mountain Madness expedition itself and of the preparations which go into such a journey. It is packed with many interesting details which will delight Everest junkies.
Whether Boukreev's actions on the mountain were irresponsible, in that he did not use supplementary oxygen to summit and immediately returned to camp after reaching the summit, rather than remain with the expedition's clients, or whether he was just following the orders of the expedition leader, Scott Fisher, who himself died on Everest, is an issue which will long be debated in mountaineering circles. There is no doubt, however, that Boukreev did, in fact, single handedly rescue three of the climbers during a raging blizzard; climbers who without his intervention would have died. Given the extreme weather conditions, his foray up the mountain to rescue climbers is nothing less than heroic.
Boukreev's is an important voice in the Everest annals, more so now that his voice has been silenced. On Christmas day, 1997, Boukreev died in an avalanche on Annapurna. RIP.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
I really enjoyed Anatoli's version of that day. If you ar an enthusiast of Everest you must read this one!Published 7 days ago by Julia
Horribly written, confusing, hard to follow or know who the author is talking to or about. A big fisappointment.Published 16 days ago by diane
Purchased this as a gift for my stepfather on father's day. Ended up borrowing it to read through. The book IA well written, tragic, and a must read for any Everest enthusiasts out... Read morePublished 24 days ago by Jacesmumma128
If you've read Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer, you MUST read this book! Although the story bogs down in legalistic detail at the end, the front half is well worth the price to... Read morePublished 26 days ago by Secret Artist
Not sure how this books adds up for someone who has not, like me, read every published account of these events but it is a good and significant read in the equation(s) of a pivotal... Read morePublished 1 month ago by Amazon Customer
Much more reliable account of the Everest 1996. Lots of information about preparation for the climb, details on acclimatization, the rescue. Read morePublished 1 month ago by Justin
I've read the book by Krakauer "Into Thin Air" as well. Anatoli isn't a writer, he basically uses his notes and transcripts from other climbers who were on the mountain to... Read morePublished 1 month ago by Amazon Customer
I enjoyed reading about some of the saves on the mountain and the techniques and personnel used. You can be in tiptop shape but the mountain and weather decide this is not your... Read morePublished 1 month ago by Joseph H. Race
I enjoyed this book. It was exciting to mentally accompany the climbers of this tragic expedition. However, it is also very sad. Read morePublished 1 month ago by R. Norman Aune