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Anatoli Boukreev

Anatoliĭ Nikolaevich Bukreev

The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest Paperback – July 16, 1999

by Anatoli Boukreev (Author), G. Weston DeWalt (Author)

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Everest, the major motion picture from Universal Pictures, is set for wide release on September 18, 2015. Read The Climb, Anatoli Boukreev (portrayed by Ingvar Sigurðsson in the film) and G. Weston DeWalt’s compelling account of those fateful events on Everest.

In May 1996 three expeditions attempted to climb Mount Everest on the Southeast Ridge route pioneered by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. Crowded conditions slowed their progress. Late in the day twenty-three men and women-including expedition leaders Scott Fischer and Rob Hall-were caught in a ferocious blizzard. Disoriented and out of oxygen, climbers struggled to find their way down the mountain as darkness approached. Alone and climbing blind, Anatoli Boukreev brought climbers back from the edge of certain death. This new edition includes a transcript of the Mountain Madness expedition debriefing recorded five days after the tragedy, as well as G. Weston DeWalt's response to Into Thin Air author Jon Krakauer.

Print length

416 pages
Language

English
Publisher

St. Martin's Griffin
Publication date

July 16, 1999
Dimensions

6.26 x 1.13 x 9.23 inches
ISBN-10

0312206372
ISBN-13

978-0312206376
Lexile measure

1270L
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Editorial Reviews

Review

“Powerful...a breath of brisk, sometimes bitter clarity...Boukreev did the one thing that denies the void. He took action. He chose danger, and he saved lives.” ―The New York Times Book Review

“Boukreev heroically rescued several climbers from certain death...[The Climb] gives an excellent account of the May 1996 disaster.” ―Chicago Tribune

“Compelling...[The Climb] has a ring of authenticity that challenges the slickly written Into Thin Air.” ―Minneapolis Star Tribune

“Provocative...compelling reading, both as an adventure and a spiritual reckoning.” ―The New Mexican

“Boukreev acted with extraordinary heroism...[In The Climb] first-person anecdotes, plus excerpts from taped base-camp interviews, are skillfully fleshed out by coauthor G. Weston DeWalt.” ―Rock & Ice Magazine

“The Boukreev that emerges from this book is a thoughtful, articulate, even poetic man whose philosophy of life and mountaineering was uniquely his own.” ―Ed Viesters, in The Will to Climb

From the Publisher

This newest edition of the bestselling account of the 1996 Everest disaster now includes never before published transcripts of the climbers' debriefing from the Everest base camp. This new material is a must for all followers of the Everest story and includes the climbers first reactions to events.

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ St. Martin's Griffin; 2nd edition (July 16, 1999)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Paperback ‏ : ‎ 416 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0312206372
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0312206376
Lexile measure ‏ : ‎ 1270L
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 1.09 pounds
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 6.26 x 1.13 x 9.23 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #81,990 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #71 in Mountain Climbing
- #308 in Traveler & Explorer Biographies

Customer Reviews:
1,152 ratings

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Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 27, 2022

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A.Gohl

almost caught fire

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on December 4, 2022

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Sure saves me clean up time

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 23, 2022

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Josephine Panasci

So useful.

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 15, 2022

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M. Moreton

A Pointless Battle in a War That Should Never Have Been Fought

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on April 10, 2018

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For those who aren’t aware, the background to this book is the deaths of 5 people on Everest in 1996. Obviously an awful day, but it probably wouldn’t have been remembered if it wasn’t for the fact that a journalist (Jon Krakauer) was present, who wrote a book about the events – after all three other people died on Everest on the same day and they’re pretty much forgotten.

JK’s book placed the blame pretty squarely at the doors of the two expedition leaders. But the book was so successful because JK was pretty good at making the characters involved come alive. Which makes the book more interesting, but of course runs the risk that some people may not like the way they’re described.

One of those who didn’t was Anatoli Boukreev. JK didn’t blame him for the deaths, and AB probably came off better in the book than some of the other people (especially Sandy Hill Pittman), but the difference was that AB was a professional climber, and people get very touchy when their professional competence is criticised.

So, AB wanted to put his side of the story. Which is why this book got written. And that should have been that, but JK felt that this book insulted his own professional competence. So, then there was a pointless slanging match which ended up being mainly between JK, and AB’s ghost writer G. Weston Dewalt (who wins the prize for the silliest name).

It was a pointless war because there were really only two areas of disagreement. The first was whether professional guides should always use oxygen, and that’s one of those technical debates with good points on both sides. The second was whether AB had the permission of his leader to descend on his own, or only with one of the client climbers. This is an utterly pointless argument because it wouldn’t have affected anything – the client climber in question made it down perfectly safely, and if AB had stuck with him it would only have delayed him a bit.

So, this book is probably not worth reading for the argument, but it is an interesting book for AB’s life story and his experiences and viewpoints. A rule of thumb is that when AB is talking, it’s a good and interesting book, but when his ghost writer is talking it’s largely rubbish – the ghost writer clearly doesn’t know a lot about climbing, and only really cares about stoking the controversy.

But if you only read one book about these events, don’t read this one. Read JK’s – it’s a classic even if not 100% fair to everyone in every case.

By the way, one of the interesting things that comes out of reading both books is that there’s a very clear candidate for JK’s source for his comments about AB. Remember that JK wasn’t on the same expedition as AB, and he wouldn’t have had much experience of AB himself. As a self-respecting journalist (and no-one could accuse JK of not being self-respecting), he’d have had a source.

Oh, and if you do buy this book, read the transcript at the end. You’ll find out a lot more about the characters involved by hearing them in their own voices.

46 people found this helpful

JA

One for the Everest collection

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on September 19, 2019

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I put off reading The Climb expecting yet more childish trading of insults between Jon Krakauer and Anatoli Boukreev over ‘who did what’ up there in the Everest Death Zone in May 1996. Reading Into Thin Air, the actions of Boukreev – a side-player at best – had no bearing on the overall design of that disastrous day. So he made a rapid descent to his tent at Camp IV rather than hang around? So he climbed without supplemental oxygen? So what? Krakauer decided to make an issue out of it and so the whole childish spat began, demeaning Into Thin Air in my opinion. But curiosity got the better of me and I wanted to read Boukreev’s version.

The first half of the book is interesting – surprisingly so, and well-written – and fills in gaps in the story in the same way that Lou Kasischke’s After The Wind casts a different light on many of the things which Krakauer writes about. Boukreev saw his role as more Sherpa than guide. He was there for his stamina and mountaineering skills. He sounds taken aback when Scott Fischer admonishes him for not interacting more with the clients: helping them put up their tents and so on. He did not see his role as “hand-holding”. Like the Sherpa, he was there to blaze the trail, fix the ropes and act in a sort of fireman’s role.

Krakauer, who was not even on the same team, derides Boukreev as ‘the guide who abandoned his clients’, but that is not how it comes across in this version. Boukreev was his own man. If he felt that it was the right thing to go back down to Camp IV to be ‘on call’ in case help was needed later, that was his decision. There is a lot of discussion about whether or not Fischer told him to go back down, but this seems like a moot point. All of the Mountain Madness clients survived while many of Krakauer’s Adventure Consultants co-climbers did not.

The chronology runs through the acclimatisation phase to the May 10 summit push and the rescues at Camp IV. Then it gives way to the familiar “Krakauer v Boukreev” claims and counter-claims which are frankly neither here nor there. Everything that you read in all the books written about May 1996 – Fischer’s exhaustion and health problems, confusion over rope-fixing and oxygen, missing the turnaround times, problems with the Sherpa, the pressure of having journalists on the team – all points to just a colossal screw-up in which poor planning, bad execution and the fickle Everest weather conspired to claim so many lives.

Into Thin Air is a fine book which captured the imagination and is still provoking comment more than 20 years after the events described. While it may not be as slick, The Climb is a fascinating take on the story which brings out the personality of Boukreev, this immensely tough, very Russian, machine-like mountaineer who survived all this only to lose his life on Annapurna just 18 months later.

13 people found this helpful

jdc

Jon Krakauer seems to be a nasty piece of work

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on October 11, 2021

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I read Into Thin Air about twenty years before reading this. It was gripping, but I already made my mind up about Jon Krakauer (Author of Into Thin Air) and Anatoli Boukreev (Author of this book), so I didn't really think I needed to read this book.

What I thought after reading Into Thin Air and before reading The Climb:
Lots of holes in a cheese aligned to make the tragedy
Anatoli Boukreev was a hero
Jon Krakauer spent the night of the disaster in a tent. He was the only client to summit and survive from his team - he must have felt guilty about that. He must have wanted someone else to blame to mitigate that guilt - he chose Aantoli. He came across rather arrogant and dismissive of people more expert than him. I wonder why many more people didn't question his motives after reading Into Thin Air? It certainly didn't seem right to me at the time.

What I learned from The Climb:
My reading between the lines of Into Thin Air seemed entirely correct. In fact, Anatoli Boukreev's account rings even more true, especially as the debriefing tapes confirm the consistency of his story.
Jon Krakauer was even worse than I thought (what appear to be deliberate inconsistencies in his story vs others' accounts). It isn't pleasant or constructive to lay blame as he did.

G Weston DeWalt has clearly spent a lot of time getting everything correct and making sure he got all his facts straight when writing the book. You can see the care and thought put into it, not to grab the readers attention with drama and lies, but to give a clear and true account.

Overall, this book lays the record straight without pointing the finger of blame, but illustrating how such as disaster occurred. Questions remain unanswered, but this gives the reader enough to know what to think. I would not recommend Into Thin Air and I would definitely recommend this, as a more balanced, and better researched, and fair portrayal.

3 people found this helpful

Teal&Tail

Interesting reading

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on April 30, 2021

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A very interesting book , writing by first experience by the guide who rescued three people in that fateful night. I couldnt put the book down, and I was amazed and rather sad that after all his efforts that day and nearly to die himself he was downgraded by another client,writer who was there with another climbing company. A must read book to get a very personal view of the events. Sadly Everest climbing it is now a very commercial venue, where inexperience climbers have access to it for a high price, not only money , but their own lives. How Sherpas risk their own lives too to assist with the business, clients and companies , how the mountain is getting littered with rubbish and humans excrements, and how the tailgating to access the summit in the Dead Zone is exposing more than ever the dangers to be waiting there.A madness in a world where money doesnt see or care about the human cost or the Planet.

3 people found this helpful

Maclh

Essential reading

Reviewed in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 on May 8, 2017

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It is essential to read this alongside, or before, or after, Jon Krakauer's book, to give a broader picture of the events of 1996 (although I have learnt most about the mistakes made from Kasischke's 'After the Wind'); there is a prolonged effort to answer Krakauer's criticisms, and fair enough, I would if I thought I had a legitimate beef, and if all the slanging leaves you cold, you don't have to read it. The meat of the book is about Boukreev and his experiences of 1996, and it's fascinating and well-written, although a little disconcerting to read his thoughts transcribed in more effective English, and then to come upon his true voice, where his English is less able (but a great deal better than most people's Russian!). There are more than one side to most coins, and it would be unfortunate to assume that any one account of that fateful year is the entire story, so this is essential reading alongside Krakauer (and others). The one bit that didn't illuminate much for me was the transcription of the participants' post-mortem; I found that a bit long-winded.

11 people found this helpful

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