Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series) Paperback – September 1, 2006
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From the Back Cover
Learn how to place and configure solid, secure anchors in a variety of real world climbing situations and see the pros and cons of many options. Natural anchors, passive chocks, mechanical chocks, fixed gear, knots, belay anchors, toprope anchors, and rappel anchors are all discussed in detail.
And, for the first time, the crucial dynamics of equalization and fall forces are thoroughly investigated, including an analysis of rigging systems. Tests conducted specifically for this book detail the true performance parameters of the cordelette, sliding X, and equalette, as opposed to the traditional wisdom” that guided choices in the pastand was often wrong.
Based on the authors’ combined years of experience, Climbing Anchors provides all the essential knowledge needed for climbers to create safe, simple, and efficient rock climbing anchoring systems.
About the Author
Bob Gaines is an American Mountain Guides Association Certified Rock Climbing Guide and the owner/director of an AMGA-accredited rock climbing school based at Joshua Tree National Park, California.
- Publisher : FalconGuides; 2nd edition (September 1, 2006)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 224 pages
- ISBN-10 : 0762723262
- ISBN-13 : 978-0762723263
- Item Weight : 11.2 ounces
- Dimensions : 5.75 x 0.75 x 9 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #1,886,193 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- Customer Reviews:
Top reviews from the United States
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In this new book Long has worked with others to scientifically test the anchoring technique he popularized with his last book, the cordelette. Through this testing he discovered that the cordelette is seriously flawed as a technique for equalizing anchors and puts forth the alternative of the "equalette", a technique that he has worked with others to test extensively in the lab and the the field.
I strongly recommend this book to any climber. As a climber with well over a decade of experience it challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes.
Los Alamos, NM
Top reviews from other countries
As a "new to the sport" climber I am fascinated about the history, the beginnings of safety gear and how scientific climbing can be. The author has an enviable amount of experience and knowledge and I have learnt so much from it. Without rewriting the book in the review I will say that it is well worth having this kind of knowledge for a sport I am sure you are passionate about and wish to climb to a ripe old age. The knowledge shared in this book will ground you and allow you to enjoy the sport a whole lot more and make you aware of measures which should be taken when you take a buddy out to the cliffs for the first. time