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This is a review of the CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 240mm Radiator.
I used the Corsair H100i v2 cooler in my new gaming computer. This is the third computer I have built with an H100 series cooler. I built my new computer with the ASUS Maximus XI Hero motherboard in a Corsair 330R case with an Intel i7 8700K (overclocking) processor, 16 GB of Corsair DDR4 memory, and a Corsair AX860 power supply.
Pick the Right Case! Tragically, my choice of the Corsair 330R case was a big mistake. The “Specifications” for the case on the Corsair website specifically list the Corsair H100i CPU cooler as being compatible with this case, but it is NOT. The 330R simply does not have enough "head room" at the top of the case to install the H100i v2 without interfering with: (1) the CPU power cables; (2) the rear exhaust fan; and (3) the top optical-drive bay. So be warned: Check your case's Specifications, of course, but also do some web-searching to see if anyone had problems installing the H100i v2 in your chosen case.
When considering the H100i v2, make sure to visit the Corsair website and look through the Specifications and the "Quick Start Guide" (which you can download as a PDF file). Also, if you have never installed one of these coolers, there are some very helpful "How To" videos available on YouTube.
Con: The "stock" fans are quite loud at full speed.
Basic Steps to Install (but always follow the current "Quick Start Guide"):
Note: I installed my H100i v2 in the top of the case. You could also install it in the front or the bottom, if your case is designed for such installations.
1. Open box and inventory all parts (to make sure you got everything).
2. Inspect to make sure it is new and has no obvious defects. For example, there should be a thin, smooth, unblemished layer of thermal paste on the base plate of the pump unit. If it is missing or scratched or blemished, it might not be new.
Note: The next part works well if you have the computer standing up, instead of laying flat.
3. Locate the 4 standoff screws you will use to secure the backplate. For an Intel 1151 socket, they will be the ones with equal-length threads on both ends.
4. At the back of the motherboard partition plate, position the backplate. For an Intel 1151 socket, the sliding bits will be toward the inside. Hold the backplate in place with one hand.
5. While holding the backplate with one hand, pick up a standoff screw and thread it into the backplate. Do not tighten; just thread it loosely but enough not to fall off. Thread another standoff screw diagonally opposite of the first one. Thread the remain 2 standoff screws. Now finger-tighten all screws (don't force them).
6. Connect the two 120 mm fans to the radiator with the long screws. You must decide if you want the fans to be blowing air into the case or exhausting air out of the case. There is a small arrow on the fan's casing showing direction of flow. Of course, make sure both fans are blowing in the same direction. I orient the fans so their cables are both at the center.
Note: The Corsair "Quick Start Guide" points out that best cooling performance is achieved if fans are mounted to blow outside air into the case. I always use the CPU cooler as an exhaust. This means hotter air is being blown into the radiator; but I have never had any problems cooling the CPU with this configuration.
Note: The next part works well if you have the computer laying flat, instead of standing up. A second person may make the next steps easier (or harder, depending on the person).
Suggestion: If you are working in a small case will little extra "top room" above the motherboard, then I highly recommend that you make connections to your motherboard before installing the radiator (for example, CPU power cable(s), connections to optical drives if at top of case, etc.).
7. Get the 8 short screws you need. Position radiator against inside of case (at top of case, in my build). While holding radiator in place, secure radiator to the case with the short screws, which are inserted from the outside of the case. Suggest that you do not fully tighten any screw until all 8 screws are inserted.
8. Connect the pump unit to the CPU. This is where you should really watch a YouTube video first. Two things: (1) Thermal paste should already be applied to the pump's heat transfer plate, so you do not need to apply more thermal paste; (2) you need to hold the pump unit firmly flat against the CPU the entire time you are securing it with the 4 threaded nuts; (3) nuts should be finger-tight, do not use screw driver and over-tighten; (4) loosely attach the 4 nuts at first, then tighten (in stages) the 1st one, then the opposite one, then the remaining two. You do not want the plate rubbing or tilting during this process. It might be best for one person to focus on holding the pump flat (evenly touching the CPU) while another person secures the nuts.
Note: While you do not need thermal paste if all goes well, you might want to have a tube handy just in case things don't go exactly right the first time. I you need to try a second time, you should remove all thermal paste from both the CPU top and the pump bottom with isopopal alchohol (I use alcholol wipes, like for sterilizing arms before giving a shot).
9. Corsair's "Quick Start Guide" states that pump power should be connected to CPU_FAN and the 2 cables from the radiator's fans should be connected to the 2 connectors coming off the pump. If you connect the pump power to CPU_FAN (and the 2 fans to the pump cables), then go into BIOS and make sure that the fan profile for CPU_FAN is always at 12 vdc (maximum) at all temperatures.
Note: My motherboard's installation guide would have the H100i v2 the pump connected to AIO_PUMP and 2 fans connected to CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT on the motherboard. I chose to follow the Corsair "Quick Start Guide" and connected the pump to CPU_FAN and the 2 fans to the pump. This configuration has the fans controlled on pump temperature (a more direct indicator of radiator demand) rather than motherboard temperature.
10. (Optional) If you like you may connect the H100i v2 to a USB port. Just connect the little connector to the pump and the bigger connector to a USB 2.0 socket on your motherboard. You need this USB connection if you want to use the Corsair Link software for system monitoring.
11. (Optional) Install the Corsair Link software. You can download it from the H100i v2 product page on the Corsair website. This nifty utility allows you to monitor temperatures as well as pump and fan status. For example, it displays: (1) H100i v2 temperature, pump speed, and fan speeds; (2) Motherboard temperatures (7 sensors, in my case); (3) CPU temperatures (separate indication for each "core"); (4) Video card temperature and fan speed.
In conclusion: The H100i v2 is a fine product. I have used previous models of the H100 series in the past and they have lasted for years without any problems. From time to time I will stress-test my system while watching temperatures, just to make sure everything is still operating okay.
| Product Dimensions | 10.87"L x 1.18"W x 4.92"H |
|---|---|
| Brand | Corsair |
| Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Wattage | 260 watts |
| Cooling Method | Water |
| Compatible Devices | Intel LGA 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066 |
| Noise Level | 38 dB |
| Material | Copper |
| Maximum Rotational Speed | 2435 RPM |
| Air Flow Capacity | 70.69 Cubic Feet Per Minute |
| UPC | 842024126775 779177165699 843591071536 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00843591071536 |
| Manufacturer | Corsair |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| RAM | 1 GB |
| Wireless Type | 54g |
