| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 10.7 x 9.1 x 6.1 inches |
|---|---|
| Brand | Corsair |
| Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Cooling Method | Water |
| Compatible Devices | Desktop |
| Noise Level | 37.7 dB |
| Material | Copper |
| Maximum Rotational Speed | 2435 RPM |
| Air Flow Capacity | 70.69 Cubic Feet Per Minute |
| Item model number | CW-9060017-WW |
| Item Weight | 3.97 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 10.7 x 9.1 x 6.1 inches |
| Manufacturer | Corsair |
| ASIN | B00SV7IIDU |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Date First Available | February 10, 2015 |
Corsair Hydro Series H80i GT Performance Liquid CPU Cooler CW-9060017-WW
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 10.7 x 9.1 x 6.1 inches |
| Brand | Corsair |
| Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Cooling Method | Water |
| Compatible Devices | Desktop |
| Noise Level | 37.7 dB |
| Material | Copper |
| Maximum Rotational Speed | 2435 RPM |
| Air Flow Capacity | 70.69 Cubic Feet Per Minute |
About this item
- Extra-thick 120mm radiator: a depth of 49mm provides more surface area for rapid cooling
- Improved cold plate and pump design: our latest generation is better than ever at rapidly drawing heat away from your CPU
- Dual SP120L PWM fans: customizable performance and custom-molded blades for high static pressure with low turbulence
- Flexible installation: use one of the included fans to save space, or use both for extra cooling power
- Modular, tool-free mounting bracket: installation is simple and straightforward
- Built-in Corsair Link: adjust fan speed, monitor CPU and coolant temperature, and customize LED lighting directly from your desktop
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From the manufacturer
The flexible, powerful 120mm liquid CPU cooling system for high performance PCs.
The Hydro Series H80i GT is a high performance, all-in-one liquid CPU cooler that works with standard 120mm radiator mounts. The extra-thick 49mm x 120mm radiator and dual SP120L PWM fans provide the excellent heat dissipation you need for high performance CPUs. It’s Corsair Link compatible, so you can customize cooling performance, monitor system temperature, and change the color of the RGB LED lighting.
Customized cooling performance
You can select the speed of the dual SP120L PWM fans via the Corsair Link control panel or any standard fan speed utility. And, you have options: use just one fan to save space, or install both in a push-pull configuration for extra cooling efficiency.
About Hydro Series Liquid CPU Coolers
Corsair Hydro Series CPU coolers give you the power of liquid cooling in a compact, easy-to-install package. They offer superior cooling for higher overclocking performance, without the complexity of traditional water cooling kits.
Technical specifications
- Radiator dimensions: 154mm x 123mm x 49mm
- Fan dimensions: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
- Fan speed: 2435 +/- 10% RPM
- Fan airflow: 70.69 CFM
- Fan static pressure: 4.65 mmH2O
- Fan noise level: 37.7 dB(A)
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Extra-thick radiatorThe 120 millimeter radiator works with standard 120 millimeter fan mounts for wide compatibility, but has a depth of 49 millimeter for increased cooling surface area and faster, more efficient cooling. |
Built-in Corsair LinkAttach the included Corsair Link cable to a USB header on your motherboard and download the free Corsair Link software to unlock even more power. You can customize cooling performance, monitor coolant and CPU temperatures, and change the color of the RGB LED lighting from the default white to match your system or to change color based on temperature readings and other inputs. |
High-performance CPU cooling made simpleThe H80i GT is a closed loop design that comes pre-filled. It includes a modular, tool-free mounting bracket for faster installation, and it features improved coldplate and pump designs for highly tuned efficiency. |
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Product Description
Hydro Series H80i GT is an all-in-one liquid CPU cooler with an extra-thick 49mm x 120mm radiator dual SP120L PWM fans for performance that's superior to stock CPU cooling fans. Cooling customization is up to you - install one of the included fans to save space, or install both for even better cooling efficiency. The H80i GT is Corsair Link compatible, with no additional hardware necessary. Just attach the included cable to a USB header on your motherboard and download the free Corsair Link software. You can customize cooling performance, monitor system temperatures, and change the color of the RGB LED lighting to match your motherboard or even change color according to system temperature or other inputs.
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Technical Details
Additional Information
| Customer Reviews |
4.4 out of 5 stars |
|---|---|
| Best Sellers Rank | #430,466 in Electronics (See Top 100 in Electronics) |
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Installation - Was pretty easy. Had to remove my motherboard to install the pump bracket. The Fan/Radiator mounted to the back of my machine the exact same way as my Alienware Liquid Cooler did. The cable configuration I chose to go with was to plug the CPU pump power to the CPU fan header and plugged one fan into the System fan header because the Corsair Link software didnt like the replacement fan I chose as I will explain later in the review. This allowed the system board to control the RPM's of the fan as the Corsair Link software was unstable and did now work right.
The software - Corsair Link would not change the RPM's when choosing quite vs performance mode. Sometime it would work other time it didnt even when temps were low the RPMs would not lower. Other times the software would not even open up and I would just get a .NET Frameworks error. I then had to uninstall/reinstall the software before it would work again. Other time all my settings would get reset upon startup. I finally got fed up and decided to ditch the Corsair link software all together as far as fan control. I still use the software to change the H80i GT pump to performance mode but I just leave in performance all the time as it makes no difference in noise. I also us the software to change the LED on the pump block. Thats all I use Corsair Link for. I am running Windows 10 Pro 64bit so this could just be some compatibility issues as Windows 10 is still relatively new.
The Stock Fans - They are very load in performance mode and loud under high CPU Load. They work pretty good when overclocking my CPU but they can get pretty loud. However ever I was unable to overclock above 3.5Ghz for my i7 930 safety. Even with no overclock and running Prime 95 the fans are loud in quite mode as RMP's increase. They can get pretty quite under low RPMs but the only time they will remain this way is at idle or websurfing.
Aftermarket Fan (The Best in my opinion) - I purchased two Arctic F12 PWM PST Fans and installed them in a push/pull configuration. The F12 fans did improve on overall sound level but NOT in performance while overclocked. However they worked just fine with no overclock and the fans were very quite even under load. I was unable to overclock my CPU safely with these fans so I had to look for another option. Little did I know I already had the best option available at my fingertips. It was the original Nidec (Model B35502-35) fan that came with the Alienware Aurora liquid cooler. Sure they dont look as cool as other fans and they are pretty thick (1 1/2 Inch to be exact vs little under 1 inch for the stock fans). I installed just one of these fans on the H80i GT radiator vs two of the Corsair stocks/Arctic F12 fans. The Corsair link software did not like the fans and the RPMs went crazy so I had to unplug them from the H80i GT pump. Instead I plugged my radiator fan into the CPU fan header and left the pump on the System Fan header. All I have to say is WOW! This one fan is absolutely amazing and outperformed two stock fans in a push/pull config!! With no over clock on my i7 930 and running Prime95 for 30 minutes the max my CPU got was 145F and to top it off the fans nose were virtually non existent. I then overclocked my CPU to 4.0GHz and the highest my temps got to were 160F after 30 minutes of Prime95 and to top it off my fan noise is still very quite! RPM's did go up but my video card fan is louder then my Radiator Fan at 100% load. I sure I can get the temps even lower by increasing RPMs with fan curve software like SpeedFan but right now its just so quite. Plus Prime95 bench are unrealistic real world temps. At 4.0GHz overclock and running BF4 all night my max temps are 145F this is perfect for me.
As you can see below the Nidec wins for both price vs specs. Dont get me wrong the Nidec fan can get very loud but it never has to not even overclocked to 4.0 GHz on a i7 930. They are also ugly as hell but it will sit behind your rad so you wont even see it. The airflow and RPM's for just one Nidec fan is nearly double/triple the amount of the all the fans listed below. The H80i GT/Nidec B35502 combo is a beast of a configuration! Save your time and money and go with the Nidec. Trust me you will not be disappointing.
Listed below are some of the top rated fans compared to the Nidec.
Stock H80i GT Fan - 2700 RPM's at 74.42 / Max fan noise 37.68Dba (Come with unit $0)
Master Cooler Jetflo 120 - 1600RPM at 95 CFM Airflow / Max Fan noise 28dBA (per fan $16.34 free shipping ebay)
Arctic F12 PWM - 1350 RPM's at 74 CFM airflow / Max Fan noise 22dBa (per fan $7.68 free shipping ebay)
Corsair SP120 - 2350 RPM's at 62.74 CFM airflow / Max Fan Noise 35dBa (Two pack $27.99 free shipping ebay)
Nidec B35502 - 3600 RPM's at 130 CFM airflow / Max fan noise 50dBa ($9.02 per fan off ebay free shipping)
The Radiator/Fan Direction - Not much to say other than it looks very nice in my case. The Radiator is thicker then Alienware Liquid Cooler. One thing I do have say to Alienware Aurora Owners is that the stock fan was pointing the wrong direction from the factory (at least for me it was). So before buying a new Cooler first check the airflow direction. My airflow was pushing warm air from inside my case out the back of my machine. This in turn was blowing warm air through my Radiator. I fixed this by turning the fan around and blowing cool air from outside the case into my Case/Radiator. I'm not sure if Alienware Manufacturing just made a mistake on my unit or if they sent out all there units this way. Either way its worth looking into as it dropped my temps my almost 10f/20f. Unfortunately I had to replace my Aleinware Cooler because my pump failed so thats why I went with the H80i GT.
To summarize the H80i GT works great but stock fans are loud and the software absolutely sucks as of 9/16/2015 using Corsair link Version 3.2.5695. The stock fan noise may just be perfect for you. To be far my tower is on top of my desk at eye level so noise is more apparent then those that have there unit inside a cabinet or under there desk. Im also running Windows 10 so Corsair Link software may improve as time goes by and bugs are fixed. With the right fan this unit is a beast and I am very happy with my purchase. It looks awesome inside my machine and was fairly easy to install.
First, the pros:
- It looks sleek and sexy in my HAF 912 mid-tower case. The Corsair logo LED is a nice touch (and can be recolored using Corsair Link software), and the hoses are sturdy and refined-looking
- Although the radiator with two fans is bulky, it's (a) not nearly as bulky as my old V6GT cooler and (b) is mounted against the rear of my case, leaving the middle area of my computer more open for better ventilation.
- At idle, my temps are at least as good or slightly better than when I used air cooling.
- The included fans are higher-RPM versions of their SP120 fans, which do a nice job of push/pull through the very thick radiator
- Despite many posts complaining of pump and fan noise, I'm finding that my pump at performance mode setting is still pretty silent (I can only hear it if I put my ear next to my case). The fans, while not whisper quiet by any means, are surprisingly quiet considering their max RPM and 120mm size.
Now the cons:
- Installation was easy...until it was time to attach the radiator to the rear fan. It was one of the most frustrating exercises in needless complication I've experienced in a while. The two 120mm fans are attached to the radiator via long machine screws that don't actually screw into the fans, but rather pass through the fan mount holes and actually screw into the body of the radiator. As a result, in order to mount the radiator to the back, you have to place the fan against the back of the case, push at least one screw through the back of your case and the fan screw hole opening, then somehow manage to hold it steady enough in place to maneuver the radiator (which is connected to the pump via stiff hoses) and literally GUESS where the hole opening is on the corner of the radiator. It was far more difficult that it needed to be, and I can't help but imagine that there was a far better way to design the pieces of this kit to attach.
- Fan/power/USB cables are pretty long, so if you're using a mid-tower case or mini-ATX, you'll have a little bit of cable management to figure out.
- For my particular motherboard (Gigabyte G1.Sniper Z97), the backplate had lots of give, even after attaching the standoffs on the other side of the motherboard. Now, once you tighten down the pump, the backplate is pulled tightly into place. However, because there was so much give, it was very difficult to secure the pump into place on top of the CPU completely level at first. I'm positive the pre-applied thermal compound didn't spread evenly from the center. If you search online, you'll find that several people did their own modification by adding rubber washers to the backplate.
- After a couple reseat attempts, my load temps are still higher than I believe they SHOULD be compared to the temps I got with my air cooler. They're still easily within acceptable range for my CPU, but higher than results others seem to be getting based on online posts (and for reference, my ambient temp is usually in the low 20C's).
Additional Thoughts/Info:
I had to rethink the airflow for my case. Going from air to liquid gave me new considerations. My air configuration had one 200mm intake fan on the front; one 140mm intake fan on the side; one 200mm exhaust on the top; and one 120mm exhaust on the top rear. The air cooler was a push-pull configuration using two 120mm fans that exhausted straight to the rear 120mm exhaust fan.
Initially, I installed the H80i GT so that it basically replaced my air cooler and rear exhaust fans--so it was set up purely as exhaust--and I had to replace my 200mm fan on the top with a 120mm fan because it interfered with the H80i GT radiator/fan. This ended up being the less effective configuration for the radiator as my GPU (MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6G) puts out a LOT of heat into the case while under load. So the radiator was trying to get cooled by the hot air coming off the GPU. I switched the radiator/fans to intake (pull in cooler air from the back) and switched the side fan to exhaust (the pull the hot air from the GPU next to it). This seems to have made a difference in my overall temps, and my other components don't seem to be increasing significantly in temps as a result.
I'm rating it 3 out of 5 stars because it's a fairly effective aftermarket cooler, but in my experience so far it isn't any more effective than significantly-cheaper air coolers.
EDIT: On a whim, I decided to reseat the pump ONE more time. Well wouldn't you know it? My temps were immediately better. At 100% CPU load while rendering a video, my CPU package temp never exceeded mid-50's. NOW I'm impressed with the performance and as a result increased my rating to 4 out of 5 stars. I'm still docking one star for the unnecessary challenge of the fan/radiator installation.
First, the pros:
- It looks sleek and sexy in my HAF 912 mid-tower case. The Corsair logo LED is a nice touch (and can be recolored using Corsair Link software), and the hoses are sturdy and refined-looking
- Although the radiator with two fans is bulky, it's (a) not nearly as bulky as my old V6GT cooler and (b) is mounted against the rear of my case, leaving the middle area of my computer more open for better ventilation.
- At idle, my temps are at least as good or slightly better than when I used air cooling.
- The included fans are higher-RPM versions of their SP120 fans, which do a nice job of push/pull through the very thick radiator
- Despite many posts complaining of pump and fan noise, I'm finding that my pump at performance mode setting is still pretty silent (I can only hear it if I put my ear next to my case). The fans, while not whisper quiet by any means, are surprisingly quiet considering their max RPM and 120mm size.
Now the cons:
- Installation was easy...until it was time to attach the radiator to the rear fan. It was one of the most frustrating exercises in needless complication I've experienced in a while. The two 120mm fans are attached to the radiator via long machine screws that don't actually screw into the fans, but rather pass through the fan mount holes and actually screw into the body of the radiator. As a result, in order to mount the radiator to the back, you have to place the fan against the back of the case, push at least one screw through the back of your case and the fan screw hole opening, then somehow manage to hold it steady enough in place to maneuver the radiator (which is connected to the pump via stiff hoses) and literally GUESS where the hole opening is on the corner of the radiator. It was far more difficult that it needed to be, and I can't help but imagine that there was a far better way to design the pieces of this kit to attach.
- Fan/power/USB cables are pretty long, so if you're using a mid-tower case or mini-ATX, you'll have a little bit of cable management to figure out.
- For my particular motherboard (Gigabyte G1.Sniper Z97), the backplate had lots of give, even after attaching the standoffs on the other side of the motherboard. Now, once you tighten down the pump, the backplate is pulled tightly into place. However, because there was so much give, it was very difficult to secure the pump into place on top of the CPU completely level at first. I'm positive the pre-applied thermal compound didn't spread evenly from the center. If you search online, you'll find that several people did their own modification by adding rubber washers to the backplate.
- After a couple reseat attempts, my load temps are still higher than I believe they SHOULD be compared to the temps I got with my air cooler. They're still easily within acceptable range for my CPU, but higher than results others seem to be getting based on online posts (and for reference, my ambient temp is usually in the low 20C's).
Additional Thoughts/Info:
I had to rethink the airflow for my case. Going from air to liquid gave me new considerations. My air configuration had one 200mm intake fan on the front; one 140mm intake fan on the side; one 200mm exhaust on the top; and one 120mm exhaust on the top rear. The air cooler was a push-pull configuration using two 120mm fans that exhausted straight to the rear 120mm exhaust fan.
Initially, I installed the H80i GT so that it basically replaced my air cooler and rear exhaust fans--so it was set up purely as exhaust--and I had to replace my 200mm fan on the top with a 120mm fan because it interfered with the H80i GT radiator/fan. This ended up being the less effective configuration for the radiator as my GPU (MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6G) puts out a LOT of heat into the case while under load. So the radiator was trying to get cooled by the hot air coming off the GPU. I switched the radiator/fans to intake (pull in cooler air from the back) and switched the side fan to exhaust (the pull the hot air from the GPU next to it). This seems to have made a difference in my overall temps, and my other components don't seem to be increasing significantly in temps as a result.
I'm rating it 3 out of 5 stars because it's a fairly effective aftermarket cooler, but in my experience so far it isn't any more effective than significantly-cheaper air coolers.
EDIT: On a whim, I decided to reseat the pump ONE more time. Well wouldn't you know it? My temps were immediately better. At 100% CPU load while rendering a video, my CPU package temp never exceeded mid-50's. NOW I'm impressed with the performance and as a result increased my rating to 4 out of 5 stars. I'm still docking one star for the unnecessary challenge of the fan/radiator installation.
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Der einbau ist für mich als Laie doch etwas kompliziert gewesen. Die beigelegte Anleitung würde ich komplett meiden, sie zeigen nicht wie die Lüfter korrekt zu montieren sind und geben auch an dass erst der Lüfter und dann die Kühlplatte montiert werden soll. Online gibt es hierzu auf youtube ein sehr gutes Video welches die Montage sehr gut zeigt.
Wichtig zu beachten ist dass die Lüfter so angebracht werden dass sie auf einer Seite Luft ansaugen und auf der anderen wieder ausgeben. (Push-Pull) Auch sollte zuerst die Kühlplatte auf die CPU montiert werden bevor der Lüfter/Radiator an das Gehäuse angebracht wird. So fällt die Montage mit den sehr steifen Schläuchen wesentlich leichter.
Was ein zusätzliches Problem ist, dass der Kühlkörper (2 Lüfter und die Wasserpumpe) laut Anleitung über ein Kabel mit dem CPU_Fan auf dem Mainboard verbunden werden soll. Hier kann es passieren dass das System nicht genügend Saft bekommt und nicht anspringt. Im Bios kann man die Startleistung etwas hochdrehen womit das Gerät dann auch anspringt (ca. 70% Leistung). Schade ist jedoch hier dass selbst bei wenig Last die Lüfter etwas Lauter sind. Alternativ kann man die beiden Küfter am Radiator an andere Lüfteranschlüsse am Mainboard betreiben da diese bei stärkerer Hitzeentwicklung auch hoch drehen.
Unter Vollast ist die Geräuschentwicklung zu verkraften, auch die Kühlleistung ist super, so komme ich selten über 62°C. Man könnte sich jedoch überlegen Ersatzlüfter anzubauen jedoch ist hier wichtig zu beachten dass man nicht irgendwelche Gehäuselüfter nimmt sondern welche die auch genügend Druck aufbauen um einen Ordentlichen Luftzug zu garantieren. Häufig sind Gehäuselüfter nicht komplett abgeschlossen und lassen Löcher am Radiator entstehen wordurch die Zirkulation sehr stark gehemmt wird. ( Noctua oder Noiseblocker wären hier eine alternative).
Wie sehr sich dieser Kühler zum übertackten eignet kann ich an dieser Stelle noch nicht sagen. Da dies mein erster PC ist muss ich mich noch etwas genauer mit dem Thema auseinander setzten bevor ich mich daran wage.
Ansonsten kann ich dieses Kühlsystem wärmstens empfehlen.
Pro:
- Gute Kühlleistung
- Sparsam im Platzbedarf
- Relativ Leise
- Durch die LED`s auf dem Kühler sieht das alles sehr ansprechend aus ( Für mich kein Kriterium )
Contra:
- Schlecht Detaillierte Anleitung
- Nicht der leichteste Einbau
- Bekommt über den CPU_Fan Anschluss am Mainboard nicht genügend Saft um die beiden Lüfter und Radiator zu betreiben
1. Warum diese Wa-Kü?
+Die beiden Lüfter und der dickere Radiator verschaffen auch bei der 12cm Bauweise reichlich Hitze weg. Eine H100i mit dem doppelt so großem Radiator passt halt nicht in jedes Case.
2. Leistung.
+ Ich habe einen FX 8350 4.0 Ghz, getaktet auf ~ 4,4Ghz. Hab den vorher mit einem uraltem Arctic Freezer PRO 64 gekühlt.
Unter Last waren damit schon mal 70° und mehr drin, wenn auch selten.
Jetzt mit der Wa-Kü komme ich kaum über 45°, also schon deutlich besser. Zu hören ist dabei nix von Pumpe oder Lüftern, die werden wenn dann locker von der Grafikkarte übertönt. :D
3. Einbau.
...dieser gestaltete sich etwas schwierig...
+ Im großen und ganzem ist die Verarbeitung gut aber sie offenbarte 2 Schwächen bei mir die ich auch nirgends in den Rezessionen gelesen habe...
- Die 8 Gewinde für die langen Schrauben der beiden Lüfter sind einfach so in ein relativ weiches Blech geschnitten das dann auch noch gebogen wurde. Da hinein müssen dann 8 - 5cm lange Schrauben mit "Feinst"-Gewinde geschraubt werden.
Das Problem dabei ist das man sehr schnell verkantet und dann das Gewinde sofort hinüber ist, weil wie gesagt, sehr weiches Blech.
Bei mir gingen trotz geübter und sehr vorsichtiger Montage nur 4 der 8 Schrauben ordentlich fest zu schrauben, die anderen 4 mussten mit sanfter Gewalt angezogen werden.
Ich vermute auch das durch das biegen des Bleches der Winkel auch nicht immer 100% stimmt und dadurch ist es eher Glückssache wenn eine Schraube gut geht.
- Der 2. Minuspunkt gilt nur für die AMD Fraktion. Es betrifft den USB-Port. Für AMD muss eine andere Montageplatte montiert werden bei der die 4 Schrauben etwas weiter zusammen sind als bei der Intel Platte. Dadurch kommen sich der Stecker des Ports und die Schraube sehr nahe, es geht, der USB-Stecker ist drin, wenn auch etwas schief und unter Spannung, nur hätte sowas doch bei der Entwicklung auffallen sollen.
Ich glaube man kann die ganze Einheit auch um 90° drehen so das der Stecker zwar nicht mehr im Weg ist aber dafür verdreht man die Schläuche unnötig verdreht und das Corsair Logo was so schön leuchtet steht dann auf der Seite...was sicher manchen stören dürfte. ;)
Abhilfe würde hier auch ein gerader USB-Stecker schaffen. (Dieser hier ist 90° angewinkelt)
Mein System:
AMD FX 8350 8x 4000 MHz auf ~4400 MHz getaktet.
Corsair Vengeance Pro Rot 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz
Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0
Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 390 Tri-X NITRO
Samsung Basic MZ-7KE512BW 850 Pro interne SSD 512GB
2TB Seagate Baracuda
Unfortunately this cooler is fairly noisy at full speed, with fan noise, pump noise and air turbulence. So if you need a very quiet cooler that can cope with something like an overclocked i7 then the Noctua NH-U14S or something similar may be better bet. By far the worst part of the H80i GT though is the Corsair Link software. I used v3.2.5742 (I've tried older ones as well) and at first glance it looks great, with some really nice features. Unfortunately it's unstable and very buggy. I've had it crash, loose my settings, fail to recognise the H80i, completely stop controlling fan speeds, stop reading temps etc etc and it does combinations of these at random. It just can't be relied upon to keep doing what you've told it to do. If the software worked properly then this would be a superb, five star package but unfortunately because the product is so reliant on the software and the software doesn't work properly, it really spoils the product.
I really don't understand why such a good and quite large company like Corsair can't get their software working when there are similar free applications made by amateurs that works much more reliably.
November 2016 update...
I'd like to update this review to say that over the last year or so Corsair appears to have completely re-written their Corsair Link software and made many improvements to it's functionality and stability. So the main downside to this cooler now is it's sub-standard, noisy fans. I have now replaced the fans with Noctua focused flow fans which are significantly quieter without sacrificing any cooling performance. It's just a shame that Corsair couldn't provide fans that match the quality of the rest of the cooler.
Die Wasserkühlung läuft sehr gut und leise. Ich beziehe mich aber hier nur auf die Pumpe und meine Lüfter, da ich andere in Verwendung habe.
Ich lege viel wert auf ruhe. Meine GTX 980 hat deswegen auch einen eigenen Wasserkreislauf bekommen. Mein i5 2500K lässt sich leider nur auf 4.1 Ghz bei 1.25 Vcore betreiben, da mein Gehäuse sonst unnötig erhitzt. Es sind 2 Cooler Master SickleFlow Lüfter am Radiator befestigt, die jeweils die erhitzte Luft durch die Rückseite nach draußen befördert. Die mitgelieferte Software ist bedingt nutzbar. Dort lässt sich auch die Pumpe bedingt einstellen. Bei mir ist diese auf der niedrigsten Stufe. Die Lüfter werden leider über die Steckverbindung der Wasserkühlung nicht erkannt. Ich musste sie also leider am Mainboard befestigen. Ist aber nicht so schlimm. Alle verbauten Lüfter laufen auf Stufe 1. Es ist nur noch die Pumpe wahrnehmbar und diese ist wirklich minimal. Meine Letzte Wasserkühlung (billiger) hat hingegen deutlich lauter gearbeitet.
Einstellung: Lüfter und Pumpe auf Stufe 1. Grafikkarte auf 100% Belastung (58 Grad). Gehäuselüfter auf Stufe 1. Kaum Wahrnehmbar
Resultat:
Desktop: 25-30
Spiele: 55-60 (Anspruchsvoll)
100%: 60-63
Was mir herbei aufgefallen ist, dass sich die Temperaturen zwischen 3.6 GHZ und 4.1 GHZ bei 1.18 bis 1.25 kaum eine Veränderung zeigen. Maximal 5-6 Grad. Ab jedoch 1.3 Vcore und 4.2 GHZ oder mehr steigen die Temperatur unverhältnismäßig bis auf 69 Grad an. Das lief mit meiner ,,alten,, Wasserkühlung wesentlich besser.
Durch diese Resultate, habe ich die Montage nochmal durchgeführt und aufs kleinste drauf geachtet, dass alles richtig gemacht wird. Keine Veränderung. Das sagt mir, dass die Wasserkühlung bis zu einem gewissen Wert zuverlässig arbeitet aber drüber hinaus keine gute Kühlung mehr bietet. Auch die Lüfter auf volle Leistung zu stellen und die Pumpe auf der höchsten Stufe laufen zu lassen, bringt nur bedingt was. Wir sprechen hier von 5-6 Grad. Das ist für eine solch hochwertige Wasserkühlung unakzeptabel. Dennoch wird diese Wasserkühlung den meisten ,,normal,, Übertakter reichen. Wollten sie mit ihren CPU bis an die Grenzen? Dann lieber doch ein anderes Produkt suchen!
Für mich reichen diese Werte aus. Ich bin einigermaßen mit der Wasserkühlung zufrieden. Würde sie aber wohl nicht nochmal kaufen.
Auch die größte des Radiators ist eine Zumutung. Diese lässt sich in meinen großen Gehäuse nicht an der Oberseite anbringen, zumindest mit Lüfter. Das Mainboard ist da leider im weg. Unverhältnismäßig großer Radiator mit durchschnittlicher Leistung. Das können andere Hersteller deutlich besser.
Pour les températures c'est efficace. Installé sur un i7-4790k et couplé avec deux Noctua NF-F12 IndustrialPPC à 1300RPM en push-pull , avec une température ambiante entre 28-29°C, le processeur affiche entre 58-61°C pour le core le plus chaud sur The Witcher 3 en ultra 1920x1080, dans une zone très chargée de Novigrad.
Les deux points négatifs sont tout d'abords les ventilateurs de base, efficace à plein régime mais extrêmement bruyant, et le bruit de la pompe. Il n'est pas très important ni même gênant pour ma part car il est très bien couvert par celui des ventilateurs qui ne sont pourtant pas très bruyants. Je n'ai pas essayé Corsair Link, je préfère les réglages directement depuis le Bios. J'enlève tout de même une étoile pour ces défauts car il vaut mieux ajouter deux vrai ventilateurs et c'est un coût en plus.
Mais pour ma part je suis vraiment très satisfait, malgré un prix élevé, il ne faut pas oublier la garantie constructeur de 5 ans et Amazon toujours très efficace et sérieux !
Reviewed in France on August 7, 2015
Pour les températures c'est efficace. Installé sur un i7-4790k et couplé avec deux Noctua NF-F12 IndustrialPPC à 1300RPM en push-pull , avec une température ambiante entre 28-29°C, le processeur affiche entre 58-61°C pour le core le plus chaud sur The Witcher 3 en ultra 1920x1080, dans une zone très chargée de Novigrad.
Les deux points négatifs sont tout d'abords les ventilateurs de base, efficace à plein régime mais extrêmement bruyant, et le bruit de la pompe. Il n'est pas très important ni même gênant pour ma part car il est très bien couvert par celui des ventilateurs qui ne sont pourtant pas très bruyants. Je n'ai pas essayé Corsair Link, je préfère les réglages directement depuis le Bios. J'enlève tout de même une étoile pour ces défauts car il vaut mieux ajouter deux vrai ventilateurs et c'est un coût en plus.
Mais pour ma part je suis vraiment très satisfait, malgré un prix élevé, il ne faut pas oublier la garantie constructeur de 5 ans et Amazon toujours très efficace et sérieux !






































