- Brand Name: Corsair
- Model Number: CWCH80
Corsair Hydro Series H80 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler (CWCH80)
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- Push-button fan control so you can select the fan speed and cooling performance that best suits your needs
- Double-thick 120mm radiator for increased surface area and cooling potential
- Two all-new 120mm fans optimize static pressure and airflow for amazing performance
- FEP tubing provides extraordinarily low coolant evaporation levels
- A new improved micro-channel cold-plate design more efficiently transfers heat
- Push-button fan control so you can select the fan speed and cooling performance that best suits your needs.
- Double-thick 120mm radiator for increased surface area and cooling potential.
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The Hydro Series H80 and H100: efficient cooling, simple installation, and the power of Corsair Link Digital.
Ready for Corsair Link Digital.
The H80 and H100 work great with Corsair Link, an ecosystem of hardware and software components designed to give you unprecedented control over your PC. Connect your H80 or H100 to the Corsair Link Commander (available separately) and monitor a wide range of parameters, including pump speed, coolant temperature, and fan speed, and customize your own performance profiles.
Control at your fingertips.
The low-profile integrated pump and cold plate includes push-button control so you can select the fan speed and cooling performance setup that best suits your needs. The cool white LED display lets you know at a glance which profile is being used.
The Hydro Series H80: Compact and quiet.
Featuring a full 240mm radiator and two 120mm fans, the Corsair Hydro Series H100 extreme performance liquid CPU cooler is designed to deliver cooling performance that meets the needs of even the most demanding enthusiast
The Hydro Series H100: Go long
Want even more? Featuring a full 240mm radiator and two 120mm fans, the Corsair Hydro Series H100 extreme performance liquid CPU cooler is designed to deliver cooling performance that meets the needs of even the most demanding enthusiast.
Corsair Hydro Series makes it easy to go liquid.
Easy installation, zero maintenance.
You no longer need to invest into finicky modular watercooling systems to get serious CPU cooling performance. Each Hydro Series Liquid CPU Cooler is a sealed, closed-loop system that comes pre-filled and never needs refilling. Tubing is constructed from low-evaporation FEP for a long lifespan. Even the thermal compound is pre-applied. You'll be up and running in minutes.
The latest cooling technology.
Both the H80 and the H100 include a low-profile, light-weight cooling unit with a micro-channel copper cold plate and a split-flow manifold. The result of all this attention to fluid dynamics is CPU cooling that's remarkably efficient, with a total noise level that's lower than most stock CPU fans.
Contents and Specifications
- Corsair H80 Liquid CPU Cooler
- Two 120mm fans
- Mounting screws for fans and radiator
- Mounting brackets for Intel™ LGA 775/1155/1156/1136/2011 and AMD AM2/AM3
- Quick Start Guide
- Radiator dimensions: 120mm x 152mm x 38mm
- Fan dimensions: 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
- Fan speeds (+/- 10%): up to 1300 RPM (Low Noise), 2000 RPM (Balanced), and 2500 RPM (High Performance)
- Fan airflow: 46 - 92 CFM
- Fan dBA: 22 - 39
- Fan static pressure: 1.6 - 7.7mm/H20
- Intel LGA 775, 1155, 1156, 1366, and 2011
- AMD sockets AM2 and AM3
- Hydro Series H80 requires a case with a rear or top 120mm fan mount
Top Customer Reviews
Pros: Rivals the some of the best air coolers out there, no maintenance like traditional water coolers, SUPER easy installation, seems to be good quality.
Cons: Instructions are lacking (see my installation tips below), must buy additional fans to unlock its full potential (I didn't ding it for this in my rating because I knew this when I decided to purchase it), no screws for a second fan, an intake setup will screw up the airflow in your case so expect to play with the case fans a little to get it right. Ideally, I would like to knock off half a star for the instructions.
General comments: The build quality is excellent however I did notice that a couple of the fins were slightly bent right out of the box. The threads on female thumb screws and the male thumb screws did not match up very well, so I still had to use a screwdriver after tightening them as much as possible with my hands. No big deal. The included fan has an annoying whining noise at full speed but I had planned on replacing it anyways. As with any high speed fan, I think the noise level would be reduced significantly by an anti-vibration gasket which can be purchased for about $5. At the time of writing this review, they are not on Amazon but Frozencpu has them (Feser 120mm Xvibe Noise Absorber).
I didn't keep the stock fan. I ended up doing a push/pull setup using two XIGMATEK 120MM XSF-F1252 Case Fans which are rated at 75 CFM and seem to have pretty decent static pressure. They also make a whining noise but its more tolerable than the stock fan. If you want to run a two fan setup, you will need to run to your local hardware store and pick up four 6-32x1-1/4" screws and four #6 washers.
The performance seems very good. With my OVERCLOCKED setup below, I am getting about 26C idle and 65C load with an ambient temperature around 22C. With the stock fan setup, you can expect a 4-6 degree increase in temperature. Pretty sweet if you ask me.
CPU: 2600K OC to 4.7 GHZ at 1.365v
Cooler: H60 with a push/pull intake
Mobo: Asus P8P67 Delux
RAM: Corsair Vengance 8gb 1866
Graphics: 2 x SLI MSI GTX 560Ti
SSD: OCZ Vertex 3 120gb
HDD: Samsung Spinpoint 72 1tb
PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000w
Case: Cooler Master CM 690 Advance
Installation tips: There are two sets of thumb screws required for the installation, one set with two male ends, one set with female threads. To get the perfect installation, all these screws need to be evenly tensioned so that the cooling block sits evenly over the CPU. To do that, attach the back plate to the mobo using the male thumb screws. Tighten them by hand, a quarter turn past snug should do the trick. The cooling block is secured by the female thumb screws. Put the cooling block on top of the cpu and barely thread the female thumb screws on, just enough so that they are on (one or two threads). Then, in the X pattern shown in the instructions you want to tighten each about 1.5 turns at a time until they are all tight. This should ensure even tension. Don't over-tighten the thumb screws as this may mess up the contact between the CPU and the CPU pins on the mobo. A quarter turn to half turn past snug should do the trick. Remember, if you are unsure, its better to err on the side of caution.
Intake or exhaust? The instructions recommend intake for best results. I agree because cool air from outside your case is used to cool the radiator. If you run a exhaust setup, the hot air from inside your case is used to cool the radiator. Keep in mind that an intake setup will probably mess up the airflow in your case since most cases are set up so that the air flows from front to back. You will need to change the orientation of some of your case fans so that the air flows from back to front. Its important to have good exhaust fans to expel all that hot air being blown into your case by the H60. In addition to the two 120mm intake fans for the radiator, I have one 120mm side intake to keep my graphics cool, two 140mm exhausts in the top of my case, and one 140 exhaust in front.
The instructions tell you to plug the fan into the CPU fan header on your mobo, and the pump into any available 3 pin fan header. Since the power going to each of my 4 chassis fan headers cannot be adjusted independently, and because the pump needs a constant 12v supply of power I found it easier to plug it into my CPU fan header and change the fan setting so that it constantly gets full power. I then plug the fans into a regulated 3 pin fan header on the motherboard so that they, along with my regulated case fans, only kick into full power when needed. Or, if you prefer, just plug the pump directly into your PSU and save that CPU fan header for something else.
The thermal grease included with the unit is very good. I recommend trying it out before running out and buying some fancy $10 tube.
Everything necessary was in the box to install. Wiped off the weak thermal paste and added a dash of Arctic Silver for good measure. Had to remove the mobo out of my HAF 932 because of a horrible cutaway that does not allow for anything to be changed without removal. Backplate went on without a hitch and installed the necessary standoffs for the 1155 CPU. I seated the waterblock/pump unit firmly in place and attached with the required screws. Tightened the screws using the uniform pressure method recommended by Corsair in the install guide.
Now, my only complaint I really have with system is in the next area, installing the radiator. The holes for the mounting screws are located directly over the radiator which is not a big deal except for the fact that you run the screw into the radiator fins. But there was no issue of hitting the actual tubes that the cooling agent run though. The paint also caused an issue here though as it seemed to pool in the screw threads which made it hard to start screws. Making the task of mounting this more difficult than it really needed to be. I resolved this by running one of the screws through all the holes to clear the paint out. This made it much easier to install afterwards.
I love the fans that came with the unit as they move a ton of air while still holding a high static pressure, but I still decided to swap these out for a set of CM Excalibur 120mm fans set in a push configuration mounted to the top of the case. They also move a high volume of air while holding a high static air charge (Not to mention they look better too).
I used the unit with the fans plugged into the main unit for a few days, then decided to scrap that idea and switched the fans to my fan controller. Was not a fan of opening my case every time I wanted to play a game to crank up the fan speed.
After using for the past three weeks through varying levels of strain, I have recorded an avg drop in temps of 8 degrees against using a CM Hyper 212+ at light use and a 17 degree drop in most game playing. For the cost of $30 over buying a piece of formidable air cooling (ie. Noctua D14) this is a great value that doesn't devour all the space in your case and still looks great doing it's job.