|Item Weight||2 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||24 x 2 x 6 inches|
|Item model number||Envi|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Special Features||insulation, energy bill, energy conservation, energy saving, weatherization|
|Battery Cell Type||NiCAD|
|Warranty Description||Satisfaction guaranteed|
Current Cost EnviR Wireless Home Energy Savings Monitor with Transmitter - White
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|Sold By||—||SupplyKick||Storm Store||winnerEco|
|Item Dimensions||2 x 24 x 6 in||—||1.8 x 5.3 x 2.6 in||—|
Everything you need to start monitoring your homes energy consumption. The kit includes: Display with power supply, 2 slip-on clamps. Transmitter with 7 year battery life, Installation manual. Kits come with everything you need. Saves Energy - Reduces Utility Bills. See in REAL-TIME how much electricity your whole home is using! Monitor displays energy use in Dollars and Kilowatts. Allows you to lower your energy usage - save 15% or more! Our Weatherization Products Help You Green Your Home, Stop Drafts, and Lower Your Energy Bills! We manufacture Green Weatherization Home Energy Conservation Draft Stopper Products in the U.S.A. Our products help stop drafts, reduce your energy bills, save you money, and improve the comfort of your home. We sell direct to you - buy from the manufacturer. Fireplace Plugs, Whole House Fan Shutter Covers, R-50 Attic Stair Covers, R-42 EZ Hatch Attic Access Scuttle Doors, Dog Pet Doors, Dryer Vent Seals, Radon Test Kits, Air Conditioner Covers, Recessed Light Covers, Insulated Switch Plate Covers, Insulated Crawl Space Vents, Premium and Economy In-Line Duct Back Draft Dampers, Home Energy Monitors, and more! Our green home energy star weatherization products SAVE YOU MONEY ON YOUR ENERGY BILLS by reducing drafts and air-leaks around often overlooked "holes", including the attic stairs, the attic scuttle access door, the whole house fan, the fireplace, the clothes dryer, the air conditioner, switch plates, recessed lights, the bathroom, kitchen, clothes dryer exhaust fans, pet door, crawl space vents, and more! Use our energy monitor to measure your energy savings! By sealing these air leaks, our products reduce cold drafts and heat loss in the winter, as well as air-conditioning loss in the summer. Our products are MADE IN U.S.A.!
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If your breaker panel is jammed full it may be hard to fit in the clamps and wireless sending unit. In fact, mine had a horizontal bar for the main feed so I couldn't put it inside the panel, but clamped them right on the two mains coming from the street. I've ran and tested it for two months now, and am incredibly happy with the results so far. Each month it has been within 1% of what the electric company reported. Monitoring it has allowed me to find items that were plugged in but not being used (IE computer scanner, amp), that were still pulling 75-80 watts just by being plugged in. It also helped me identify that the hvac people mis-wired my AC system by watching the wattage pulls- my heat strips weren't working when they were supposed to, and my 1st & 2nd cooling stages were reversed.
It's easy to install/configure, only took me about 5 minutes to do it, and so far I've been able to drop my electric bill by 60% since I've been using it.... for the price you just can't beat it. Note that I have this setup to monitor the whole house, I didn't need to put it on any specific device as you can view each devices wattage pull by default when it's powered on. If you want to monitor individual devices you can, but you have to buy more sending units and I had no reason to justify the extra cost.
Configuring the Device:
1) Probably best to turn-off the power at the main breaker. Although I must say, I was extremely tempted to just clamp the clamps over the mains, at most wearing rubber gloves came to mind per one review. But being electrocuted once, I know touching electrical wires once either induces a death grip or immediate kick & blackout. I've also performed most of my house wiring myself to code, so I'm extremely safety conscience.
2) Make sure you know your house voltage. (ie. 110, 115, 120, ...) Using a volt meter, you can measure an outlet. Mine here in Alaska is 120v. (121v to be exact) The default setting of the unit is 115v, and could be reason for the inaccurate measurements posted within earlier reviews!
3) The "pair button", is the recessed button on the transmitter requiring a pen/pencil to depress. Have the wireless unit alongside the transmitter when first activating the unit.
4) Pairing the unit, can be as easy as turning on the unit, as I did without reading the instructions. However, you need to make sure the unit is matched voltage within step one above. Else, you'll find yourself back downstairs dismantling the box panel again to get to the transmitter pair button!
5) Find your base rate, but adding the cents per kilowatt including additional charges per kilowatt within your bill. (You can omit the flat rate charges, as they're likely minimal.)
1) The connection is made within the inside electrical box using induction magnetic clamps wrapped around the two incoming electrical lines. The benefit of installing on the inside box, your not subjecting the wireless unit to abnormally cold exterior temperatures preserving battery life.
2) The monitoring is performed by induction magnetic clamps, unlike other solutions using a strap-on device to an electric company's electrical meter. Less possibly failures, including battery failures due to temperature extremes.
3) Can modify base rates, including hourly rates.
4) Can connect an external device for data gathering or dumping data. User initiated data dumping switch also can be programmed from the wireless device. Also, the spec is available/reverse-engineered or has Linux or open source computer program(s) to gather data remotely. (ie. [...])
5) The unit remembers time, base rate per kilowatt, and voltage (ie. 120v) if unplugged.
1) Delay of 7 seconds before the wireless unit picks-up electrical usage changes. Sometimes the transmitter by skip a transmission.
2) Display automatically cycles through usage calculations every five seconds or so, and no manual switching between values can be performed. Must wait to see the value you desire for changes.
3) Found the device needed to be paired, after the initial pairing, because I didn't make sure the voltage was initially specified correctly. Also, on subsequent pairing, the device ended-up putting the usage on device #9, requiring a subsequent pairing initiation until the device was displaying usage on the first page of it's monitor.
4) Some of the instructions within the manual are not worded in basic English. (ie. Page 3, "please undertake the following"; Page 3, Used lowercase roman numerals instead of more common lower case alphabet for outlining steps.) Other than this, much better than most manuals these days.
5) Most Cons listed here, likely mean nothing to the end-user, as the end-user will likely read all instructions step by step, unlike me and won't see these issues. So these cons will likely be of more benefit to the manufacturer.
6) Lowest usage detected seems to be about 14W, and then ~34W, and then the unit starts to detect 1-3W differentials. Likely normal for the magnetic sensors/coils.
So far, I see my extensive basement florescent lighting is using a large sum of electricity. Also, likely including garage florescent lighting. The base rate for electricity here in Alaska is currently at $0.2283, which is about three times the cost elsewhere, making this device desirable and affordable.
Bottom Line: After my research on electrical monitoring devices as of 2012.12.12, this is probably your best bang for the buck. There are some more elaborate products, but they all have associated negative factors as well such as excessive cost, making this product the best option.
After a month or so, I'll try to follow-up on this review.
2012.12.13 - Went to the panel today with the wireless unit in hand with a flashlight and hunted down all power guzzling devices by switching-off all circuits within the panel(s) and switching each one on, while monitoring the display after each seven second transmission. I found the unit will zero-out, but will only start to detect usage at about 14W, the next detection is about 34W and then the unit starts to notice 1-3 Watt usage differentials. So, all those LED lit GFCI outlets and smoke detectors will add-up, as you switch each circuit back on, and then you'll see a spike to 14W after turning on say, the smoke detectors. Bottom line, I found the fans and the arrays of ceiling florescent lighting in the basement, garage and kitchen to be major users of electricity. Including the computer and TV when left on. Of these devices, when they're left needlessly on, will add significantly to the monthly bill. Also, the water pump (of which I already knew) and surprisingly the Microwave are also guzzlers. Water pump for ground water well is intermittent as is the septic lift station pump. But I can only imagine defrosting and cooking large roasts within the microwave. I'm running back to using my wood stove here in Alaska, due to energy costs. Far cheaper.
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