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Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing Paperback – July 29, 2003

3.0 out of 5 stars 2 customer reviews

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Editorial Reviews

Review

The ocean's presence is always in me; I never feel separate from it. Surfing is a martial art, a spiritual discipline of body and mind. In the sea, you always have to be ferocious, quick, and violent; and fluid and serene--as it is. You sound your own depths in the ocean.

From the Inside Flap

There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In "Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the ride, inviting readers to reflect upon the true place of human beings in the universe.
This book is for all board riders, for all those who are touched by the forces of the ocean, and for all those who wish to understand the boldness of surfers, who join power and elegance in that harmonious dance with the sinuous movement of the wave.
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Product Details

  • Paperback: 176 pages
  • Publisher: Shambhala; 1 edition (July 2003)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1590300602
  • ISBN-13: 978-1590300602
  • Product Dimensions: 6.4 x 0.5 x 7.8 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 9.9 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 3.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (2 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #6,897,939 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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By Lacy Clark on December 4, 2005
Format: Paperback
If you're looking for a book that tells you the technical way to ride your board, then this book isn't for you. But if you're looking for a book that really gets at the heart and soul of surfing, then you will love what this true rider has to say.
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By A Customer on August 19, 2003
Format: Paperback
I bought this book on an impulse after reading the back cover and a few pages. The promise of those impressions was not realized in the work. I wanted very much to like the book, but in the end felt that it jumped around, scratched alot of surfaces, and never really became insightful in the way I had hoped. Also, on a couple of subjects it actually seemed very shallow, almost to the point of being being cliched. I think there are much better and more insightful books on the subject, I would not recommend this title.
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