|Item Weight||2.2 pounds|
|Package Dimensions||8.4 x 8.3 x 2.8 inches|
|Material||100% PLA (Polylactic Acid)|
Dikale PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1KG(335m/1099ft) 1.75mm, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02 mm, 1KG Spool 1.75 mm, Gray
Get free shipping
Free 5-8 business-day shipping within the U.S. when you order $25 of eligible items sold or fulfilled by Amazon.
Or get 4-5 business-day shipping on this item for $5.99. (Prices may vary for AK and HI.)Learn more about free shipping
- Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
- ✔️ 1 KG (approximately 2.20 lbs) Spool(335m/1099ft)
- ✔️ 1.75mm Filament Diameter (Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm)
- ✔️ PLA (Polylactic Acid) 3D Printer Filament Vacuumed Sealed With Desiccant
- ✔️ Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 190°C - 230°C (374°F - 446°F)
- ✔️ Spool Diameter: 7.8" - Spool Width: 2.5" - Spool Hub Hole Diameter: 2.20"
Customers who bought this item also bought
Customers who viewed this item also viewed
What other items do customers buy after viewing this item?
Have a question?
Find answers in product info, Q&As, reviews
|PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1KG(335m/1099ft) - Grey||PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1KG(335m/1099ft) - White||PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1KG(335m/1099ft) - Black||PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1KG(335m/1099ft) - Blue||PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1KG(335m/1099ft) - Red||PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1KG(335m/1099ft) - Yellow|
Filament Vacuumed Sealed with Desiccant
Package includes: 1 Roll PLA Filament
Material: 100% PLA(Polylactic Acid)
Weight: 1KG (2.2LBS)/335m(1099ft)
Diameter: 1.75mm(Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm)
Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature: 190°C - 230°C (374°F - 446°F )
Recommended Base Plate/Print Bed Temperature: 0-50°C(No Heating Bed Require)
Compare with similar items
HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, White
HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Gray
3D Solutech Silver Metal 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 2.2 LBS (1.0KG) - 100% USA
HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black
AmazonBasics PLA 3D Printer Filament, 1.75mm, Black, 1 kg Spool
|Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Sold By||Dikale US||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com|
|Color||Pla2.2lbs-gray(335m/1099ft)||White||PANTONE COOL GREY 6 C||Silver||black||Black|
|Item Weight||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs||2.2 lbs|
|Material Type||100% PLA (Polylactic Acid)||—||PLA||Pla||pla||—|
Top customer reviews
There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.
The filament is shipped in a cardboard box, sealed in plastic with a desiccant packet to keep it dry. Contrary to the picture shown on Amazon, the spool has openings on the side, and also near the very center of the reel, so it's easy to see how much you have left.
The filament is that it's very glossy and smooth, almost glass-like. It’s a very brilliant white and very reflective.
I printed a temperature tower with temperatures matching those listed on the spool and box (190 to 230C). There was noticeable droop on holes and bridging above 220C, and stringing increased as the temperature rose.
I settled on a 200C hot end and 60C bed temperature, print speed of 50mm/sec, and 5mm retraction @ 60 mm/sec on the Anycubic I3 Mega printer. (Note: The Ultrabase bed on the I3 requires heat for adhesion)
I measured the filament at various points during testing, and it varied between 1.73 and 1.75mm throughout.
First up, I printed a single wall thickness test object . The results were OK but the print had tiny imperfections. Higher extrusion settings in the slicer software seemed to help, but thin areas were persistent in all my testing of single extrusion walls. I don't consider this a problem honestly because I didn't notice any problems with thicker walls, and even the single thickness walls were structurally sound and flexible without cracking.
To test layer adhesion and translucency of the filament, I printed a 0.4mm slice (2 layers @ 0.2mm). The result was a very smooth surface and I was able to see my finger clearly through the printed object with some minor back-lighting.
Next was a Chromatic Vase, using Simplify3D’s “vase mode” where the layers are printed as a spiral moving upward. The results were very good. The surface of the filament is bright and uniform and has a nice shine that catches the light beautifully. There were some minor imperfections on the rear of the vase caused by a partially clogged nozzle, but as you can see the results were very nice in the attached images and video. (Amazon's video encoding really messed with the section of the video that shows the vase, sorry about that. Check the attached picture for a sample of the quality)
Finally, I printed an extruder stepper mount to test the filament for use in a structural part. The result was accurate in all dimensions with no perceptible shrinking or warping. Supports removed very easily. Much more so than from other PLA I've used. This may be due to the smooth surface of this filament. The strength of the parts seems similar to those I’ve printed with other PLA.
THE BOTTOM LINE:
The Dikale filament prints well, is reasonably priced and seems to be a good choice if you are looking for a bright, smooth and glossy surface. I like it, and will definitely use it for future projects.
I'll start out by saying that the Creator IS compatible with Makerbot's 7.2 firmware, Makerware, and .X3G files. Totally and completely. Plugged it in through USB with Makerware up, and it registered it as a Makerbot. No hiccups or problems flashing the firmware. It all just worked.
The machines are not identical, but they're very close. The Creator is obviously based on The Replicator, and a lot of parts are the same, or very very similar. The Creator's screen in the front is bigger, and brighter (it's blue with white text) and if you're lower than it, it's very easy to read, even from half a room away. However if you're above eye-level from the screen the viewing angle is crap and you have to bend down to read it. The refresh rate is also a lot lower, so you have to scroll slower to actually be able to read it.
The buttons on the Creator are really nice. I love that they're separate instead of one continued squishy square. I also love how the Creator's buttons are very 'clicky'. The Replicator's buttons are very soft and mushy, and sometimes I can't tell if I've pushed them or not, or accidentally let my finger slip to the side and then end up going back in the menu.
The build platform seems nice and consistently flat so far. At first I was worried that it wouldn't be very leveled, but I haven't had any problems with it. I've actually had more problems with one of my makerbot's that has a slightly warped platform in one corner. The Creator does NOT come with a roll of Kapton tape, however. So you'll definitely need to make sure you buy yourself a roll from somewhere. The build platform comes with tape already applied to it, but you'll need to change that out after a while, so get yourself some tape.
--- editing this bit -- My Creator came with MK7 nozzles instead of MK8 nozzles and I actually ended up replacing it with an MK8 that I ordered from Makerbot. However my friend got two Creator's about two months ago, and his came with MK8 nozzles, and they work beautifully, so I'm assuming they've upgrades since I originally bought my bot.
Overall, I'm happy. It's definitely a decent alternative, but I'd say it's slightly more finicky than the Replicators in some areas. Might need a bit more love and attention, so it might not be quite as user-friendly.
Also, there are enough differences around the Extruder area that the mods out there (like the baring and spring replacement for the craptacular Delrin Plunger feed mechanism) won't work as they are, and you'll have to make modifications to get them to fit and attach properly. --edit-- It actually appears that they redesigned the plunger area so it actually mimics the barrings mod that I prefer to use on my replicators, so... good on them! This is a definite improvement --/edit--
Oh - one other difference is that the Creator doesn't have all the fancy LED lights all over the place, like the Replicator does, but this is honestly a feature more than anything else. The LED arrays in the Makerbots are notorious for causing electrical shorts, which cause the fuse capacitor on the Mightboard to blow, requiring a replacement of the whole darn board. Creator got rid of the LEDs all together, and I think this is good because it reduces the risk fo shorts and static zaps.
Anyway, I've only had it a few days, but so far I'm satisfied.
The spool holder is interestingly different - gives greater room for different spool sizes, but it doesn't hold them on very well, so you've got to keep your eye on it for the first few prints since it'll want to unravel and get tangled around the holder.
OKay, so now that I've had the thing about 5 months, I figured I'd update this.
I still like the Creator as a viable alternative. Although mine is actually down at the moment because of a blown x-stop cable.
I wanted to add in this because I know more and more people with no experience with 3D printers are looking into them. They are not end-user-friendly devices. This isn't like your average consumer-level machine where the thing just works without much tinkering. They break down regularly and you will have to replace parts. Over the last year, on all of my bots, I've gone through xstop cables, thermocouples, nozzles, replaced plungers with barring mods, replaced ALL of their heated build platform cables, replaced fans, and even had to replace one of the stepper motors. This is normal. It's true for Replicators and it's true for the Creator. (In fact, one reason to stick with an actual Replicator, over a Creator, is that they cover their machines under warranty, so when something breaks, they'll send you replacement parts for free.)
If you're the sort that's afraid to mess with a machine when something goes wrong, a 3D printer probably isn't for you. There's a reason that it was the DIY community that started this home 3d printer movement. The founders of this movement, and the people who drive it, are all tinkerers. Building the 3D Printers is just as much part of the fun as actually using them. If you think that sentence is totally mental, then 3D printers aren't ready for you yet. Wait a few more years until they get more end-user friendly.
However, if you're willing to try and learn, it's not really that hard. I was never much of a tinkerer, and definitely never could have imagined myself replacing a heated nozzle, or trouble-shooting the latest inexplicable problem, a year ago, and now I do it all the time. The learning curve isn't *that* high.
Better than I thought it would be. At first I was scared because it was a little brittle, but that was just the part the was in the spool end hole. I ran my first print with my [Open Filament] da Vinci 1.0 Pro. 3D Printer/Upgradable Laser Engraver - 7.8" x 7.8" x 7.8" Built Volume (Fully Enclosed Design - ABS/PLA/Tough PLA/PETG) printer. I am also using the EZ-Stik Professional 3D Printer Build Surface from GeckoTek, 200x200mm as a surface. The print held well to the surface and popped right off after the print. I printed .1mm layer height at 35mm/s speed surface and 50mm speed inside. Heat was set at 210.
I like how the spool is easy to see how much stuff is left and the color is not as white as the inland stuff, but is whiter than the supply3d stuff.
The photo attached is the first print from the printer using this PLA. It is sitting atop a quarter, and fresh off the printer.
I think I will order another spool when this runs out.
UPDATE: Ran out of the first roll, just ordered another.