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EMY 5 X HC-SR501 Adjust Ir Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Sensor Detector Modules
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- PCB Dimensions: Approx. 32 x 24mm
- Operating voltage: DC5V to 20V
- Level output: 3.3V, low 0V
- Delay time: adjustable (0.3 seconds to 18 seconds)
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PCB Dimensions: Approx. 32 x 24mm Screw hole distance 28mm, screw aperture 2mm Sensor lens size: (diameter): 23mm (default) Operating voltage: DC5V to 20V Static power consumption: 65 microamps Level output: 3.3V, low 0V Delay time: adjustable (0.3 seconds to 18 seconds) Lumen: 350-550Lm (approx.)Blockade Time: 0.2 seconds Trigger Mode: L can not be repeated, H can be repeated default value H Trigger Mode: L can not be repeated, H can be repeated default value H Spotlight no shadow Energy saving and environmental friendly, high quality, effective and low heating, long service life Suitable for office, dance hall, bar, exhibition or home useSensing range: less than 120 degree cone angle of less than 7 meters Operating temperature: -15 to +70 degrees
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All that is good, but there's something more, and it makes them absolutely INCREDIBLE. If you look closely at the board, you'll find a spot off to the oppsite side of the controller chip, that was clearly meant for two pin headers. I had a close look at the topside of the board where the PIR sensor is mounted to, and found that one of the traces going to this unused pin header spot comes from the side of the PIR sensor. SO, naturally, I soldered a couple of leftover pin headers to the spot and ran a little test. Sure enough, it connects you right to the output of the PIR sensor itself! Ohhhhhh baby... RIght away, I attached this newly created output to the A0 input of one of my Arduino (Gikfun) Nano boards and set it to plotting a graph using MakerPlot (NICE program!) At first I wasn't impressed because the output was ridiculously noisy, but then a thought occurred to me - what if the USB cable connection to the Nano board was as usual, the source of all that noise? SO, I rigged up a quick NRF24L01+ setup to the Nano and did the feed wirelessly to a second Nano attached to the computer. And again as usual almost all of the noise went away and I was left with a really nice waveform when sensing motion. Then I made the best move ever - I fed my DIY PIR sensor output line into a simple transistor amp made from an MPSA18 high gain, low noise NPN transistor. Holy God, this thing is now difficult to believe. I placed the resulting high gain wireless motion detector rig out on my recycle bin just outside my front door and aimed it at the road about 45' away. This thing doesn't just detect people, it detects CARS as well. I'm not kidding. And it doesn't just show a little bump... man it KILLS it. It shows huge wavy spikes on most of the cars, and catches almost 100% of all vehicle transits, and again that's from 45' - 65' away at the closest. It's insane, I don't know how else to put it. And since I'm using the raw output of the PIR and doing all the signal handling through the Arduinos and the computer, I have absolute control over triggering level and behavior and what to do with positive hits. Add to all that, that it is now a wireless rig, and buddy... the possibilities.... wow. "Pretty damned impressive" is an understatement.
So, about the product, in case you thought I was just going to ramble about DIY stuff... They're cheap, they arrived quickly, no damages that I am aware of although I haven't tested all five of them yet, they lend themselves beautifully to modification and integration, and they work brilliantly. The only thing wrong with them at all is that they #1 don't come with that PIR sensor header already, and #2 they don't apparently come in a ten pack with ten Arduino Nanos, lol. Other than that, you bet I love this purchase, and I'll probably get more someday. JUST DO IT!!
PS: It's very late here and I made all the biggest improvements to the setup long after traffic had died down to about nothing on my road, but tomorrow when things get busy again I'll run another graph and attach it here for your amusement, and I'll put up a shot of the rig itself as well.
Edit 2-17-16: First attached picture is of course counting cars. The detector is about 45' away from the closest lane of the road that my home is on, and the traffic on the far lane is closer to 60' - 65' away from the detector. This was in full daylight, bright sun on a 70F day here in Florida with a moderate breeze, if that makes any difference. Note that the noise level is plenty low compared to the actual hits, all of which are strictly cars. I need to do this again when the school kids are all walking home so that I can see how well it handles human beings at that distance.
In other words, if you want to run this from a 3.3 voltage source (e.g. the 3.3v from say an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi) then here is a diagram showing the connections. You merely ignore the +5 volt pin and use the Output pin, Ground pin and apply 3.3 volt to the indicated pin in my picture.
These are only sensors, you still must have a driver board for powering lights.
Note that these units can be easily modified to work only at night by adding a photocell (I used a GL5516) as follows:
remove the little plastic cap
near the 3-pin connector (where label says Out & Vcc) are 2 thru-hole pads (usually have solder on them)
remove solder from 2 pads & solder in a GL5516
The module is now a night-light sensor
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