I ordered this set for the retropie powered bartop arcade we were building and I'm very happy with the results. I like the clicky feedback from the joysticks, how bright the LEDs in the buttons are, and how easy these were to put together. They perform well in all of the games I've played so far, including games on NES, SNES, and MAME.Now, that being said, I did a LOT of reading reviews and researching configuration issues with these controllers before/after buying these in preparation of my cabinet's final assembly. I learned a ton from other folks who used these before me, which is why I think the final steps of my build went so smoothly. If you're looking at these for your own retropie arcade, I thought I'd leave some helpful tips in this review for my fellow DIY-ers.First, like other reviewers and the seller have mentioned - when wiring your buttons pay attention to the crown logo on the back. With the crown logo facing the correct way, your red wire connects on the lower left post, your yellow wire connects on the upper left post, and your black wires connect to the posts on the right side. Once the wires are fully connected to the buttons' posts, they're extremely difficult to remove, so be sure you've got the right order before connecting them fully.Second, I recommend testing your joystick's orientation before you secure it to your controller board. When you first connect the joystick/buttons to your retropie, you'll be asked to configure your controller inputs. During this configuration it's possible for your backwards joystick to be configured to work correctly in the main UI, but still be backwards in retropie configuration, which I read can cause issues when using certain emulators like ones for MAME. This happened to us, and we had to unscrew the joysticks, flip them 180° and re-secure them to the controller board. Don't just test in the main screen of retropie - go all the way into retropie setup (like where you go to get new themes, perform updates, etc) and make sure your directional movements are correct.Third, if you're planning on using both sets of these at the same time for 2 player games, pay attention to how you're connecting your buttons to your encoder. If you look on the back of your USB encoder board you'll see notations where the buttons' wiring connects on the board. Mine were labelled ST, SE, K1, K2, K3, K4, etc. Connect the buttons to these slots: your start button should be connected to the slot labeled ST, Select goes to SE, A goes to K1, B to K2, X to K3, and Y to K4. I did use all of the buttons in this kit, so I also connected L to L1, R to R1, P1 coin to L2 and Player 1 Start to R2. For player 2 it was the same: Start = ST, Select = SE, A = K1, B = K2, X = K3, Y = K4, L = L1, R = R1, P2 coin = L2, P2 start = R2. The user I read this info from stated to be absolutely sure you connect both player 1 and player 2 button sets on the exact same slots on each encoder to avoid configuration issues. I'm not sure if this is still necessary (the forum thread was from a year ago) but it's how I wired mine and had zero configuration issues. Note: some MAME emulators default map your coin and P1/2 start buttons to your regular start and select buttons. If you're planning on using separate coin and P1/2 start buttons for MAME games like I did, you'll likely need to do additional configuration within the emulator. I'm using lr mame2003 and this is what I had to do to get my extra buttons working for coin/start.Fourth, I also read of potential configuration issues due to which USB ports these controllers are plugged into on the pi/USB hub. I'm using a powered, 7 port USB hub which is what I've connected my controllers into to avoid power strain on my pi. Looking at my hub, I plugged my P1 encoder into the left-most port, and my P2 encoder was plugged into the slot right next to that one. I also have dual USB ports for additional peripherals/device charging on my cabinet, and those were plugged into the next slots on my hub. I have my wireless keyboard dongle plugged into the Pi's USB slot '0' and my hub plugged into the Pi's USB slot '1.' Again, not sure how necessary this is, but I read of potential issues with the pi not correctly recognizing which controller was P1 and which was P2 due to which USB port each controller was plugged into. I connected mine in what appeared to be a correct numerical order, and again, zero issues doing it this way.Those are the big things I can think of, but one last tip: after getting my buttons onto my controller board, I used small labels on each wiring harness to label which button it was (start, select, a, b, x, y, etc) on the end that connects to the encoder. This made it wayyy easier to connect each button to its board in its correct slot without having to trace it back to the button itself. Plus during wiring I was pretty much looking at everything backwards from the inside of the controller board, so it made it easier to keep everything straight when connecting to the encoder.Overall, very happy with this set. My arcade works great, and I have had a ton of fun playing with it.