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The Elements of Dessert Hardcover – November 5, 2012
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From the Publisher
Chocolate and Fruit Pops
- Dark Chocolate
- Milk Chocolate
- White Chocolate
- Freeze-Dried Fruit Powders: bayberry, acai, wild blueberry, lucuma, pomegranate, Steuben grape
- Other Flavors: instant coffee powder, matcha green tea
- Edible Lacquer Spray
Yield: 10 of each flavor (Total of 80)
1. Place 80 lollipop sticks on a flat surface.
2. Temper one chocolate at a time. You will need about 400 g/14.1 oz per type of chocolate to make 20 lollipops (each pop is about 20 g/ .7 oz).
3. Pour the chocolate into a parchment paper cornet. Pipe it into a swirled drizzle, making sure to pipe some over the lollipop stick. Let the chocolate crystallize.
4. Set up the freeze-dried fruit powders and other flavors by placing each one on a flat plate. You will need about 200 g/7.05 oz of each.
5. Spray each pop (only the chocolate part) with edible lacquer spray on both sides and dip it into the powder, making sure it is completely covered. Tap off the excess powder.
6. Reserve at room temperature in a cool, dry place, preferably enclosed. Discard after two months.
Why These Flavors Work:
* Dark Chocolate and Acai: Acai has an intense berry flavor that almost tastes like fake berry flavor. The acai is intensified by the bitterness of the dark chocolate.
* Dark Chocolate and Pomegranate: Pomegranate is a sour flavor that can be muted by most flavors, but the dark chocolate acts as an enhancer.
* Dark Chocolate and Steuben Grapes: This grape is very similar to the Concord grape but with a concentrated flavor. When dry it is almost wine-like, which pairs well with a dark chocolate instead of a sweeter one.
* Milk Chocolate and Lucuma: Lucuma is a fruit that is most common in Peru. It has a unique flavor that is very intense and on the sweet side, with an almost umami taste to it, which makes it a good balance for milk chocolate.
* Milk Chocolate and Coffee: Coffee and all three chocolates (dark, milk, and white) go well together, but for different reasons. Milk chocolate tames the bitterness of the coffee—think of adding milk to a cup of coffee.
* White Chocolate and Bayberry: This berry is very complex in flavor with a highly sour taste, which is why the sweetness of the white chocolate is an ideal balance for it. The species of bayberry called for here is commercially known as “Yumberry.”
* White Chocolate and Wild Blueberry: Wild Blueberries have a fruitier taste than cultivated blueberries, and they are also slightly more acidic. White chocolate enhances their flavor very well.
* White Chocolate and Matcha: Matcha has a slightly fishy taste, which is unfortunate. Certain brands, though, somehow manage to circumvent that. It still has a very green-vegetable/grassy flavor, which is kept in check by the dairy flavor of white chocolate, this making them great companions in your mouth.
- Gelatin Powder: 5g / .18 oz / 1.5%
- Water: 28g / .99 oz / 8.38%
- Confectioner's Sugar: 300g / 10.58 oz / 89.82%
- Peppermint Extract: 1g / .04 oz / .3%
Yield: 334 G/ 11.78 oz
1. Bloom the gelatin in the water. Melt over a warm—not hot—water bath; heat just enough to dissolve the gelatin so that it is not hot, just melted.
2. Combine with the confectioners’ sugar and peppermint extract, mixing to obtain a dough-like mass. You may want to add more extract since the flavor tends to dissipate when the lozenge dries. It is up to personal taste, but it is better to overcompensate for this fact. You may also replace the peppermint with other flavors, but they may taste too artificial. Peppermint is an extract that people are accustomed to tasting in its artificial form.
3. Roll out the dough as thin as possible using a pasta machine.
4. Cut the dough into 2.5cm/1 inch squares.
5. Allow to air-dry for at least 24 hours, or dry in a dehydrator set to 50°C/122°F for at least 2 hours.
6. Once dry, you may apply a graphic image to the surface by using a rubber stamp and natural food coloring in a sponge pad.
- Yuzu Puree (page 520): 900g / 1 lb. 15.75 oz / 71.77%
- Sugar: 300g / 10.58 oz / 23.92%
- Calcium Solution (See below): 12g / .42 oz / .96%
- Universal Pectin: 12g / .42 oz / .96%
- Gelatin Sheets, silver, bloomed in cold water, excess water squeezed off: 30g / 1.06 oz / 2.39%
- Sugar: 1kg / 2 lb 3.27 oz
* Monocalcium Chloride: 2g / .07 oz / 1.8%.
* Water: 120g / 4.23 oz / 98.2%.
Yield: About 144 jellies
1. For the solution: Combine both ingredients. Reserve in the refrigerator.
2. Prepare a frame using caramel bars (heavy stainless-steel bars) measuring 30 cm/12 inch wide by 45 cm/18 inch long 1.25 cm/.5 inch deep. Place it over a flat sheet pan lined with a nonstick rubber mat.
3. Combine the yuzu purée with the sugar and the calcium solution in a 3.84-L/4-qt sauce pot. Bring to a boil over high heat while whisking. Turn off the heat and stir in the pectin as quickly as possible using the whisk. Boil over medium heat for 1 minute to fully hydrate the pectin.
4. Turn off the heat and add the bloomed gelatin sheets, stirring to completely dissolve them.
5. Pour the jelly into the prepared frame. Allow to cool to room temperature without moving the sheet pan. Once it has cooled, allow the mixture to gel completely in the refrigerator.
6. Once it has set completely, cover the surface of the jelly with a thin, even layer of sugar. Remove the caramel bars; you may need to separate them from the jelly with an offset spatula. Place a nonstick rubber mat over the jelly and flip it over carefully. Sprinkle the surface with a thin, even coat of sugar.
7. Using a guitar cutter (if available; otherwise use a knife and a ruler), cut out 2.5-cm/1 inch squares. Toss them in sugar to coat them completely. Shake off the excess by placing the jellies in a drum sieve and shaking the sieve gently. Place them in a single layer on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Allow them to dry for 2 to 3 hours at room temperature; turn each piece over and allow to dry for 2 to 3 more hours. Wrap tightly and reserve in a cool, dry area at room temperature. Discard after 1 week.
Without a doubt, the must-have gift for the serious baker, professional or aspiring pro-pastry chef on your holiday list is Francisco Migoya’s Elements of Dessert. How can I say that with such confidence? Two reasons: 1) Having seen the way other accomplished pastry chefs interact with Francisco Migoya at different industry events over the last three years, such as StarChefs and Top 10 Pastry Chef Awards–Migoya is clearly someone they admire and respect. And 2) Because none other than Michael Laiskonis, Creative Director of the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) and generally regarded as one of the top pastry chefs in the US told me
“Francisco Migoya is probaby the most important pastry chef in America right now”– high praise indeed!
Part pastry school textbook, part coffee table book, this is a monster 537 page volume that provides the “blueprints” for hundreds of different desserts in every dessert category. Aside from the recipes and guidelines for petite fours, pre-desserts, dessert buffets and cakes, the book also has many adventurous and fun plated dessert recipes, such as “Warm pandan leaf -infused caramelized cream, black sesame genoa bread, hibiscus glaze, popcorn shoot (all part of the same dessert).
The book truly covers all the bases. As the review on StarChefs, who recently named it one of the top books of 2012, notes:
“[the book] delves succinctly into the creaming method, the custard method, the time and place for a meringue, the proper approach to composed cheese courses…The starkly beautiful pictures of Migoya’s modernist creations are, so to speak, the icing on the intricately composed cake”
As I mentioned, Migoya is frequently sought after for his advice on both the technical and aesthetic aspects of pastry. Joseph Baker, a well-known pastry chef and a Pastry and Baking instructor at Le Cordon Blue in Dallas TX, who is often consulted on advanced baking issues himself, said this about Migoya and his book
“He [Migoya] is actually the reason I now teach. He shares his creations and improves the overall landscape of food. Chef Migoya is a true pioneer in our industry and his book, The Elements of Dessert, is a perfect guide to contemporary pastry… any Migoya book is a must have.”
One of his former students at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) echoed those sentiments:
“[Migoya] brings an intensity [to his work] that few of my other instructors could match in my time there. So much so that I was afraid of him for some time!” —Dessert Buzz
Even in a long career, it's never a bad idea to brush up on the basics, especially when it comes to pastry. The Elements of Dessert does just that, and no wonder. It's written by CIA Chef Instructor and International Chefs Congress Presenter Francisco Migoya, who delves succinctly into the creaming method, the custard method, the time and place for a meringue, the proper approach to composed cheese courses, and the various types of dough. Heck, it even has a short section on “the method for tasting food,” in case you were doing it wrong (hint: you might have been, as Migoya offers a spreadsheet on flavor compatibility and “frontal versus background flavors”). But it also offers hundreds of brilliantly confounding and innovative recipes, from plated desserts to mignardises and entremets and even dessert buffets. The starkly beautiful pictures of Migoya’s modernist creations are, so to speak, the icing on the intricately composed cake. by Nicholas Rummell —StarChefs
From the Inside Flap
THE ELEMENTS OF DESSERT
IN THE ELEMENTS OF DESSERT, RENOWNED pastry chef Francisco Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America take you on a guided tour through the innovative flavors, ingredients, and techniques in the thrilling world of desserts. He explains the art of dessert through its most essential and fundamental elementssuch as mousses, doughs, and ganachesrevealing in each recipe how to incorporate these building blocks into inventive, unforgettable delicacies. He begins by covering the core concepts and techniques, including flavor breakdowns focused on combinations and compatibility; basic pastry methods; principles of dessert and menu composition; preparation methods for essentials such as custards, creams, and meringues; and chocolate making and tempering basics.
After exploring these essentials, Migoya delves into the desserts themselves, divided into distinct groups:
PRE-DESSERTS: Semi-sweet small dishessuch as Goat Cheese Bavarian Cream with Beet Jelly and Date Pound Cake Crumbsintended to bridge the gap between savory main courses and fully sweet desserts.
PLATED DESSERTS: Simple, modern, and elegantly plated recipes like Toasted Milk Panna Cotta Covered in Caramelized Milk Chocolate with a Crisp Croissant Crouton and Devil's Food Cake Soup.
DESSERT BUFFETS: A wide range of small items from which diners may choosewith an emphasis on dishes that will keep, as well as on visual impact and presentationsuch as Chocolate Blackout Cake with 64% Dark Chocolate Mousse, Luxardo Cherries, and Crème Fraîche.
PASSED AROUND DESSERTS: Small nibbles that are plattered and passed around the room, usually in easy-to-handle forms like lollipops or macarons.
Sections on cakes (Entremets) and petits fours (Mignardises) round out this collection of awe-inspiring desserts and highly sophisticated techniques. With Migoya's unique approach and clear guidance, combined with gorgeous and instructive photography, The Elements of Dessert offers a comprehensive education that will empower pastry students and working professionals alike to reach new heights in both flavor and presentation.
Top customer reviews
The layout of the book is very well thought out. You must be prepared to invest in ingredients and equipment to make the majority of the recipes in this book.
A suitable amount of background is recommended before attempting the recipes found later in the book and this background is provided in Chapter 1. Do not skip this chapter! The first chapter provides an extensive explanation of preparation and cooking methods (for example: tempering chocolate), an overview of flavor and texture profiles of ingredients, and even considerations in menu composition.
Subsequent chapters contain recipes and photographs grouped by the type of setting under which the dessert would be served (such as plated, in a buffet, cakes, etc.). The ingredient amounts in the recipes are weight based so at the very least you must have a kitchen scale.
In the end of the book is a list of on-line resources where unique ingredients or tools can be purchased which I found very helpful.
I'd recommend this book to anyone who has an appreciation of culinary artistry, and strongly recommend this book to chefs who enjoy modernist cooking.