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Environmental Technology 8-Ounce Kit Casting' Craft Casting Epoxy, Clear
|Price:||$13.26 & FREE Shipping on orders over $25. Details|
- Ideal for polypropylene or rubber molds
- Is low odor
- One-to-one ratio
- Eight-ounce kit
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Easycast is an easy to use 1-to-1 ratio, two-component, clear casting epoxy. It is ideal for casting small decorative items such as jewelry, figurines, paperweights, coasters, knobs and more. Embedding or encasing items is easy and fun. Color easycast with casting' craft transparent dyes for the colored glass look or opaque pigments for solid colors.
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In any case, this is a two part epoxy that you mix in equal parts. For stuff like jewelry, you will be using only tiny amounts, and it's pretty hard to screw up. The first thing I did was enclose a photo in a bezel. Trick 1: use a photocopy from a laser printer, not an ink jet (not sure why but it matters). Using your printer's options, lighten up the picture somewhat more than you'd think...it will look darker in the bezel. I cut the photo strip of paper to fit, put a tiny bit of stick glue to hold it in place, and settled it at the bottom of the bezel, making sure it was all the way down. Next, I mixed the two parts (only about one lid full of each), mixed in a plastic cup with chopstick, and poured in. Trick 2: pour it where you can leave it so you don't have to move it and slosh it around. It must be level!
It's slightly thicker than nail polish. It does take longer to dry than the product directions said. Even 48 hours in it was still sticky. Trick 3: use a tiny pin, not your finger, to test for cure (otherwise you get a thumb print). Even at that late stage though, the surface slowly evens out.
I've used it several times since, namely in putting vintage photos inside rings and spaces on copper jewelry. On deep sets, I usually fill it halfway with resin first, wait 3 days, then add the photo or object and add a new batch of resin on top. That way I think it will cure more securely.
Problems: some people get air bubbles...this has yet to happen to me. Some have their embedded objects float up...try to secure it somehow first. Some projects show a domed top to the piece...would love to figure that out but for now mine all are a perfect flat top.
One neat trick that some vintage jewelry designers use (those recreating old looking jewelry) is to put a few pin pricks and scratches into the top of the piece of resin towards the end of curing. Then, when fully cured, they rub a bit of black paint or black patina into the cracks and spots, wipe off, and it gives it an aged appearance.
When completely, completely dry....say a week or so, you can cut off excess with an Xacto knife and some say you can sand it...I'm chicken to do that as I like the matte finish as it is.
I hope you find this review helpful. The book SEMIPRECIOUS SALVAGE is a good place to find ideas for using this in a vintage jewelry style.
The process was a multicast procedure which took a few batches so that the exothermic reaction wouldn't cause natural wood oils to come out of the wood. The first pour was just a base one to get into the hidden void spaces and make sure that nothing came out to the other side, which is always a worry with a wood like this. I kept the piece covered so nothing would get on the surface and then the second day poured another batch in, following the first day's procedure. A total of 4 pours were needed to get the resin to near the tape supported piece and the tape was removed for the final pour to allow the wood to rest naturally against the prior day's pour. Pour 5 started the final covering procedure and came around that wood piece to support it up to its sides. I was willing to let the hardened resin be a bit concave which happened as part of the normal shrinkage in casting. With good adherence to the sides and internal void spaces that was the only way it could shrink.
Now the bench has that as an extra feature which took some time, but seemed like a much better idea than just filling it in flat with putty or colored epoxy.
- Easy to work with
- Fills in void spaces
- Relatively fast set-up for multi-pour situations
- Exothermic, which means thinking ahead on the amount to cast at a given time
- Shrinks as it cools
- Time consuming for larger pieces
For me this was a great solution as an alternative that my normal methods wouldn't address.