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Epoxy Floor Kit - Epoxy-Coat Full Kit Clear - up to 500 sq.ft. at 9.7 mils

4.3 out of 5 stars 76 ratings

Price: $399.52
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  • Clear base coat with Non-skid - 3 gallon kit
  • Everything you need for project included in kit
  • Lifetime Guarantee - Made in the USA - 10X More Durable than Big Box Store Brands and Water-based Epoxies
  • No Odor- Slip Resistant - Easy Application - 100% solids - Resists chemicals, salt, oil, and hot tires
  • The Original High-Performance Coating Kits
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  • Epoxy Floor Kit - Epoxy-Coat Full Kit Clear - up to 500 sq.ft. at 9.7 mils
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  • Dripless DC600 Dual Component Adhesive Applicator, 22 oz. Dual Cartridge Capacity, 26:1 Thrust Ratio; 1:1 or 2:1 Mix Ratio
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Product description

Color:Clear

Epoxy-Coat’s garage floor coating is the most durable and longest lasting 100% solids Cycloaliphatic epoxy floor coating kit on the market today. Epoxy-Coat 100% solids floor coating kit is ideal for garage, basement, patio, industrial or commercial concrete or wood floor coating. If you wish to compare the thickness after dried application between Epoxy-Coat and normal epoxies you would need over 2.5X the gallons to equal exactly the thickness of 1 gallon of Epoxy-Coat Floor Coating. You can do it yourself in an afternoon and get a beautiful finish on your garage floor, basement, indoor patio, wood floor and even commercial floor coating applications. In addition to your garage floor coating application, Epoxy-Coat can be used in any room in your house safely, and is ideal for children’s playrooms, bathrooms, basements, laundry rooms, kitchens and mud rooms. Epoxy-Coat can be applied in a single coat with the thickness of 5+ coats of paint with no odor and a dry time of 12 hours. Epoxy-Coat is perfect for rough and pitted concrete floors due to the self-leveling nature and 100% solids non-shrinking formula. A single coat of Epoxy-Coat will patch and coat all in one application. Epoxy-Coat floor coating is the most durable and longest lasting epoxy coating kit of its kind, and it outperforms all other national brands. KIT INCLUDES: 2 gallons Epoxy-Coat Part A, 1 gallon of Epoxy-Coat Part B, 1.5 Lbs. Decorative Flake, .5 Lbs of Aluminum Oxide Non-Skid, 9 oz. Prep Solution. Application Tools: 3" Brush, 9" Roller Cover (3/8" Nap), Squeegee, 16" Mechanical Mixer, Pair of Vinyl Gloves

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Color:Clear

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4.3 out of 5 stars
4.3 out of 5
76 global ratings
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Reviewed in the United States on February 13, 2016
Color: TanVerified Purchase
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5.0 out of 5 stars Looks great and has totally transformed our very drab garage
By jamin on February 13, 2016
This looks great and has totally transformed our very drab garage. The finish is shiny and slightly textured by the added paint chips. Seems to be very durable (so far) with no noticeable defects. We used the tan color for a "warm" look. Good results depend on the prep. We started with a 9 year old concrete floor that had never been sealed, and had numerous cracks, small holes (divots), grease spots and various stains. It was a mess. Our steps:
- watch the instruction video and read the online instructions a few times (done before receiving product)
- clean out garage and sweep and vacuum entire floor
- pressure wash entire floor using light-medium pressure
- (optional then we painted the walls and ceiling a complementary color)
- using a flat razor, scrape off any remaining paint & glue & whatever junk still stuck to concrete
- with garden sprayer applied a strong mixture of "simply green" cleaner & warm water to the greasiest areas, then with a hand drill and a nylon bristle attachment, scrub these spots, repeat for the worse area using a wire attachment (skip if no grease spots)
- added TSP to the garden sprayer & 2 gallons warm water and let it sit, then pressure washed everything out (if the concrete is already clean this step can be skipped or shortened),
- applied the etch product from the epoxy-coat kit per the instructions, spray on, let sit a few mins, then rinse off twice. Squeegee out water.
- wait at least a day for the floor to be reasonably dry, then caulk any cracks or holes you don't want to show. We used a high quality latex caulk rated for exterior use (you can buy anywhere)
- next day caulk anything you missed. Some caulk will likely have shrunk from the day before. If any sports still look slightly greasy (or discolored) grind these with the drill and wire brush attachment again. Just being sure (our concrete had many grease spots)
- important! leave the garage door open and wait enough days for floor to be completely dry. In our case, in 70-80 weather with average humidity (HI "winter") this took 4 days. We ran some fans for an entire day to be sure.
- we had a corded drill specifically for mixing (a strong battery drill would likely be OK). I purchased extra matching paint chips from HD (we used about 50% more chips then came with EC package). Got some additional cheap paint brushes for the cut in. We had two pair of spike shoes (one surprisingly came with the kit). Don't go cheap - you need the spikes. Lots of cardboard so we could lay down messy roller etc. We had a two extendable handles for the roller and the squeegee. We only needed the one squeegee and the roller that came with the kit, though we had extras on hand just in case.
- Our garage is roughly 400 sq ft (19 x 21) and we marked into four equal areas (pencil line on floor). We used duct tape and a string (as a straight guide) to mask off the garage opening such that the coating ended exactly where the door touched the floor.
- properly mixing A (base) with B (hardener) is the most important part of the job.I don't advise using the very hard to see lines on the wood "dip" stick that comes with the kit. I had two small plastic pails which we used instead for measuring. I poured 28 oz of water into the smaller pail and marked the level both inside and outside with a sharpie. The inside line will become covered with hardener/base and partly erased, so make sure the outside line is visible from within. Tape on the outside would also work as a level marker. Do the same for the larger A pail, except use 68 oz of water. It is very important not to confuse the A and the B pails when mixing, which is why I used different sizes and colors and marked both (A vs B). After marking the appropriate levels dry the A and B measuring pails.
- These mix at 28 oz for B to 68 oz for A **exactly**, and you will get exactly four mixes out of the kit. We had barely a few drops left over when done, so it worked out perfect. Also a good idea to have several paint mixing sticks on hand to help get stuff out of pails.
- ready to mix and apply, we both put on spike shoes. Make sure all the nuts on the spikes are tightened (a few of ours came off). I found that duck tape wrapped around the entire spike / shoe combo worked better then the straps that come with the spike shoes (straps broke when tightened hard). I ran a timing app on my phone so we could hear the 3 minute mix time and the 10 minute roll time. Put on gloves.
- I poured B into the B pail up to the line, then poured that into the big black mixing bucket that comes with the kit. Then did same for A. Use the sticks to help get out A or B. Do not confuse the A vs B sticks! (B is clear which helps) Start the 3 minute timer. Mix for three minutes.
- pour mix out about 2' from a wall in one area, then start the 10 min timer and start to squeegee it out. We had one guy squeegee and when halfway done the other guy started to cut in while we kept spreading with squeegee. You don't have to be very neat or even with the squeegee, just spread the entire area. After the first guy was done cutting in and everything squeegeed, he started rolling the area. After 10 mins the entire area was rolled and we started mixing the next batch with the 3 in timer. Meanwhile one guy kept rolling. Be sure to put wet tools and buckets on cardboard not bare floor!
- do the same for the next area, except when done rolling, back roll first area. After all four areas and therefore the entire floor is rolled, back roll everything again starting with first area. Be sure to back roll over any small bubbles that tended to appear 20 mins after first roll. Usually one or two back rolls took care of this (we figured the last back roll should be about 45 mins after an area was first rolled). We also popped a few random late bubbles using our extension poll. By the time we started spreading the chips we had no bubbles (one or two showed up right after the chips but we were still able to pop with the pole).
- we divided all the chips into eight almost full dixie cups (again we purchased extra chips), so we spread two cups per area. We pretty much threw to the ceiling (9 ft in this case) and let spread naturally, though we tossed some more or less directly into corners. We were going for a random effect with some slightly more densely chipped areas, and it came out looking great.
- about 30 mins after we finished the chip spreading, we carefully removed the duct tape masking the garage door entrance.
- we finished the job around 4 in the afternoon and by 7am the next day I could walk on the floor. By the afternoon of the next day we were moving back furniture. I waited three full days before driving the car into the garage. Did I mention the floor looks awesome!
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Reviewed in the United States on April 17, 2014
Color: GrayVerified Purchase
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Reviewed in the United States on June 10, 2014
Verified Purchase
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