|Item Weight||4 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||6.4 x 6.4 x 4.1 inches|
|Item model number||RSW-4-50|
|Manufacturer Part Number||RSW-4-50|
|OEM Part Number||RSW-4-50|
|ABPA Partslink Number||RSW-4-50|
EternaBond RSW-4-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape, White - 4" x 50'
|Price:||$54.44 & FREE Shipping. Details|
|You Save:||$25.06 (32%)|
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- Ideal for use in sunny environments
- Simple installation only requires some surface preparation before use
- The elongation factor is very high, which permits roof seal to expand or contract with changing conditions
- Adhesive side has a silicone lining that prevents it from sticking to other surfaces before application
- Size: 4" x 50'
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This item EternaBond RSW-4-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape, White - 4" x 50'
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|Sold By||Mobile Home Solutions||RV Wholesale Direct||Mobile Home Solutions||Tweetys||CamperTrailerSupply||Mobile Home Solutions|
|Item Dimensions||6.4 x 6.4 x 4.1 in||3.6 x 2 x 11.2 in||—||1.09 x 1.24 x 1.09 in||1.8 x 2 x 11.2 in||—|
Eterna bond rsw-4-50. Ideal for use in sunny environments. Simple installation only requires some surface preparation before use.
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Top Customer Reviews
OK, so is it that good? Do you want to seal the fine cracks in the EDPM roof rubber on your RV - FOREVER? Do you want something that you can put up there and forget about it - no fear of the bond disintegrating over time and flying off onto the overly - cautious Volvo driver following behind you? Do you want to end the seepage of the ever-so-evil-RV-destroying rain water into your coach? Do you want something to firmly attach your rocket boosters to the space shuttle before leaving the atmosphere*?
Then this is the product for you! This stuff is probably the stickiest stuff I have ever run into - and I have children! You cut it to length, peel the clear backing off and firmly press it onto the roof of your coach. You can use a roller for more firm pressure, I suppose, if you want to buy a roller you will never use again, but believe me, it is sticky enough with just hand pressure. Once you press it down, it's there. Eternally.
This stuff is so sticky that when applying it I accidentally got it stuck to itself - sticky sides together -- what to do? Just pull it apart?
No can do - if you try that it mercilessly mocks your efforts, leaving you in a defeated crying heap of weakness.
This product has one job, and it does it well.
The white side is a nigh-impenetrable water tight cover over a gray semi-squishy adhesive that supposedly bonds to the surface. Im not going to go up there and test the molecular process at work and endlessly debate the difference between bonding and sticking - to me it's sticky - darn sticky. I have no doubt that it will repair whatever mess you have up there and then some. My guess? It will probably outlast the roof around it until you are left with no rubber roof save for the parts you stuck this onto.
My plan is to slowly cover every inch of the roof on my 34' Bounder over the next few years until it is completely covered. Seriously - if these guys made a peel-and-stick roof covering in one piece I'd use it, except for the fact that I fear I would be in real danger of becoming stuck to it during installation, leaving myself helpless on the roof of my RV like a wayward mosquito caught in the web of a black widow, or a criminal caught in that spider-individual's web of justice, resigned to my fate of imobility.
This comes in different widths and I like the 4". Ok, I've only ever used the 4", but I do like it. It covers seams well with a fair amount of overlap. I considered the 6" and the 2", but I bought the 4". Fifty feet of this stuff is a lot, but at the same time you might be surprised how many little cracks and stuff you have up there, plus it is good to have some on hand in case of future leaks, or the sudden need reattach an arm after a bazaar kayaking accident. (Am I the only kayaker here? Thought not!) You may find yourself wanting to use on good seams to because, well, it just seems a heck of a lot stronger when you do.
Yes, it's pricey, and yes, I'd like it to be cheaper, but it is worth every penny, and I don't spend my money unscrupulously, at least not since the incident with the goat farm back in the nineties. (They TOLD me it was the wave of the future!)
Anyway, buy it, stick it to things, make them waterproof, but beware - you don't get any take-backs, so be sure it is exactly where you want it!
*Product not warranted for atmospheric re-entry
However, now that the panels are in place and anchored, I have no concerns that they will come off. I also covered the wiring to the panels with this stuff. Hopefully you can see how nicely it has applied in the attached photo.
I researched various ways to deal with this. Most pros would probably say to take the seam apart, etc., and reseal it. That's not realistic for me right now. There are no current leaks and I am looking to shore up these problematic old caulk jobs that look about ready to fail along the front and rear seams and near the gutter.
I first looked at a lot of pictures at what other people had done with Eternabond tape. That helped. There was also a youtube video made by the Eternabond company about how to apply it. That also helped because it gave me the idea to use the utility knife. And to use my fingers instead of the roller. The guy in the Eternabond video uses his fingers to apply pressure (not the roller) and he uses a utility knife to cut the tape. There is not a lot of great info out there about using it but there are a lot of pictures and some decent youtube videos. None address the issue of lancing as well as they should in my opinion.
Something else about the utility knife is important which is that it can be used to easily lance any air bubbles or "tents" that occur has you apply the Eternabond. Using you fingers to smoothly apply pressure helps to identify these air pockets that can be lanced so that the microsealant can fully apply. The Eternabond website says to use a pin to pop air bubbles and describes the procedure for what to do for "tenting" and I found that also very helpful. As it shows that where it tents or bubbles, the important thing is only to lance it and smooth it over and apply another layer if necessary or to make it prettier.
I am totally new to this and could be doing it wrong so I'm just going to get to the pictures ...
First I noticed the trouble spot by the back rear where the caulking was breaking down and this looked like an area where it was possible for water to pool. So I made this area a priority. It is around the gutter and the gutter and the rubber strip along the gutter are in very good shape so I didn't want to cover them up.
I prepared and primed the area. (Disclosure: I have some Eternaprime brand primer on order but until then I decided to prime it the old fashioned way.) So I washed the area thoroughly with dishsoap until it was about as clean as it gets with dishsoap. then I marked the area lightly where I would be applying the tape and used a little sandpaper to rough up the area. then I quickly applied and wiped off some acetone over the area. this is especially good for priming the old caulk. it is good to expose a "sticky" layer of the old caulk which if you scrape or prime some away, does appear. Note that the acetone will remove the paint also off your trailer. then I pre-meaured the strips I was going to use and planned exactly where I would place them and pre-cut the strips. I took my time and used no strips longer than 8 inches. I find that more than that is difficult to handle and to focus on applying pressure on every little bit.
When I applied the eternabond tape, I pretty much put it above where I wanted it (with back peeled off) and let it kind of fall into place by gravity as I guided it laying it as flat as possible. then when it was flat, I went about applying pressure from the middle out and working out all the tents and air bubbles and I pressed on the sealant. It was very helpful to have a clean and sharp utility knife to lance tents and air bubbles. You have to really be careful with that utility knife because remember if you go just a little bit too much, you will cut into your rubber roof. Nevertheless, I used one because it worked the best.
This is not a how to guide because I am not sure if I am doing this correctly but by using some logic and watching some videos about how to use this, it seems pretty good. In areas where I had to lance tents or air bubbles and more tape was needed, I simply applied more tape over that area as Eternabond says to do on their website.
pair of nice, sharp scissors to cut the tape (clean scissors as necessary with acetone if they get gunked)
utility knife (clean with acetone if it gets gunked)
acetone as described above
dishsoap as described above
my fingers to press down to ensure surface adherence (not the roller)
On purpose here I did not use the tape over the black rubber or the gutter because both are in good condition with no breaches so I wanted to leave them as-is.
I plan to do the three other corners of the trailer and all along the front and rear seams although for going along the entire seam, I am going to wait for the Eternaprime. I wanted to get going with this corner just to see if it would be a viable method to deal with the deteriorating caulk around this area.
Update: I discussed this with Royal Adhesives. The first roll that I got from the RV manufacturer was not their product, they have always used a plastic backing. (I need to find out what the good stuff actually was) Royal Adhesives will not warranty anything purchased outside of their distribution channels. They apparently have problems with unauthorized re sellers dumping dubious product.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
I've wrapped areas where normally you would caulk seal....Read more
After application, peeled right up.
Not sticky at all. Bad roll?
50 dollars tossed to the wind. How are there so many positive reviews?