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Condition: Used: Very Good
Comment: Cover is clean with minimal wear, binding is tight and intact, pages are clean and unmarked.
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Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High Paperback – September 10, 1999

4.9 out of 5 stars 45 customer reviews

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Frequently Bought Together

  • Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High
  • +
  • Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete
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  • Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 8th Edition
Total price: $66.97
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Editorial Reviews

Review

...another quality mountaineering book from the sport's preeminent publisher, Mountaineers Books...entertaining reading. -- Wyoming Tribune-Eagle<br /><br />Everyone from the hardened extremist to the aspiring tiger to the weekend punter will learn from this book -- Climbing magazine<br /><br />Twight has been one of America's boldest alpine climbers for a couple of decades, and his book is a primer for serious mountaineers.(The Times-News (Twin Falls, ID)) --(The Times-News (Twin Falls, ID))

About the Author

Marc Twight is one of America's leading alpinists. His routes in Asia, North America, and the Alps have stretched the limits of the possible. Many remain unrepeated. His gripping accounts and vertiginous images of climbing at the edge have been published in leading magazines around the world. He lives in Boulder, Colorado. James Martin is a free-lance writer and photographer whose work has appeared in Smithsonian, Sports Illustrated, Climbing, Outside, and a host of other publications. The author of several books, Martin is also an experienced climber who has established first ascents in the U.S. and Canada. He lives in Seattle, Washington.
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Product Details

  • Paperback: 238 pages
  • Publisher: The Mountaineers; 1st edition (September 10, 1999)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0898866545
  • ISBN-13: 978-0898866544
  • Product Dimensions: 0.5 x 7.2 x 9 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 12 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (45 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #112,337 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

By K. H. Kikstra on July 5, 2002
Format: Paperback
Mark Twight has not written an instruction book filled with clear drawings about how to tie a clove hitch. Beginning climbers looking for basic technique info should buy "Mountaineering: the Freedom of the hills" and go on a course first, but this does not mean that Twight's book is for extreme climbers only.
Any climber that knows these basic techniques benefits from his thoughs and experience. The book is divided in 4 parts:
(1) Approach: about 12 pages about your mental state of mind, very useful for the climber and anyone who wants to achieve specific goals as his thoughts about self-knowledge, focus, confidence, suffering, failure and learning can be applied to a broader range of goals.
(2) Training: this is the first time I have seen a real mountaineering training program in a book like this. He covers a 20 week training cycle in detail, with chapters on mental training, strength, endurance and importantly, nutrition. This really helps set a goal and work towards it. It's impossible to climb any mountain unprepared and unfit and depending on your goal you can adjust his schedule.
(3) Equipment: Clothing, Gear and Potection.
Twight has become (in)famous for refusing the accepted 3 layering system as it's too bulky, warm and heavy. He stresses the lightweight system which was an eye opener for me. Although his thoughts are not applicable for every mountain area (if you wait in Scotland for the rain to stop before climbing, you might as well not come at all...), it helped me to better pack my stuff for my trips: lighter and more useful.
His thoughts about gear are just very useful, learn from the expert, not from someone who is trying to sell the stuff...
(4) Technique:
No it will not teach you to climb a 5.
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Format: Paperback
This is THE best book I have ever read regardging climbing, period! It not only gives practical insights in to climbing but the nuts and bolts on training, gear selection and route selection for you ability. I especially found the sections on training to be extremely insightful. This is a topic never discussed in detail by any of the worlds top climbers. This book, the text and the pictures has done more to motivate me than all books combined. I know without a shadow of a doubt that I am ready and capable to move my climbing to a new level!
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Format: Paperback
Mark Twight and James Martin have assembled an excellent reference and an enjoyable read supported by wonderful photos.

I found the chapter on attitude and character most fascinating. The recognition and acceptance of fear coupled with will and realization of suffering as part of alpinism, helped to crystallize success and acceptance of failure.

An honest discussion about psychological training is helpful for the beginning and experienced climbers. Chapter 2 covers awareness, visualization, and psychological acclimatization before, during and after the climb.

These subjects are usually avoided or hidden in nuances in other mountaineering works. Bringing them into the open in the first two chapters helps set the supporting themes used throughout Extreme Alpinism.
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By A Customer on October 4, 1999
Format: Paperback
I wish I had this book when I started to alpine climb over 20 years ago. It would have cut my learning curve in half and saved me from hauling way too much junk up some very big routes!
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Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
Mark Twight is (ok, "was" -- he's retired) a world class alpine climber with a long list of ridiculously impressive climbs. But they aren't your usual climbs; he lives up to his motto of fast and light (often ridiculously so in both categories). This book is absolutely full of helpful information about what it takes to adopt this kind of balls-out climbing. He talks about nutrition, physical training, equipment, clothing, psychology, partners, rescue, and on and on. He really did give us the keys to the castle with this book, laying out all of his secrets for how to succeed and survive using this kind of admittedly very dangerous alpine methodology. Plus, he includes a bunch of vignettes (his own and others) about tales of survival, success, and -- importantly -- failures. He makes it abundantly clear throughout this book that this kind of climbing is definitely not for everyone. People die every year doing this (and less). But if you're up to the challenge, this is a veritable Bible of light and fast alpinism.
The only downside to the book is the somewhat dated information (1999) about gear and clothing. I wish he'd do an update. But with a little interpolation/knowledge of current gear/clothing, you can easily adapt what he says to today's gear. The techniques and so on are still as relevant now as they were then, almost without exception.
I had zero hesitation giving this five stars. Twight knows his stuff cold, and shares it all with the lucky reader. But reader beware: this book may inspire you a bit too much. As others have said elsewhere, "Fast and Light" should always be followed up by "Fit and Experienced." Twight tries to emphasize this with sections on the sometimes draconian workouts he recommends, but still... I could see clowns like myself biting off more than what's chewable after reading this.
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