Eye clops missing manual
Before you spend two hours figuring these things out, here are some tips that should have been in the "missing manual" --
1. The comments about spending half an hour getting these out of their package relate to the very difficult side adjustment connector tabs. When you first open the box (peel the inside box away from the outer shroud to expose the plastic "face") -- you will find that the factory has this adjusted RIDICULOUSLY tight to fit the packaging "face". The easiest way to get the device off, without breaking it, is to remove one side attachment tab, then slide the whole device off the plastic "face" by expanding the rubber bands on all three sides (top, left and right).
2. The side attachment tabs have a screw like looking button. These do NOT screw in or out, so don't waste your time trying to "screw" with them. They push in, which BARELY squeezes two little inner prongs together just enough to force the snap tab away from the goggles. In truth, you have to use extreme force on the right tab (the side with the power cord running to the camera and lights), and pretty tough force on the left. The inner prongs are plastic but strong, so, while holding the false screw "push button" in, pry the tab up with your other fingers on both sides with a rocking motion and good force. Very doubtful a child could do this.
3. After you see the hassle of these tabs, you won't want to adjust the thing more than once, as you won't want to keep taking the difficult tabs on and off to be sure they fit! So, here are the general guidelines we've found for fit: Do NOT waste your time trying to PULL the ribbed rubber straps through the tab to adjust it. The ribs are too large for the opening, and you'd need to be a body builder to budge them. Instead, the trick is (assuming you're right handed) to grab the bottom rubber ribbed band (the lengthening side) with your left hand, right near the plastic tab, then pull the TAB ITSELF AWAY from the bottom ribbed band, holding the band while actually moving the tab instead of the band. This will snap the tab along the ribs to lengthen the VERY short factory adjustment. This is counter intuitive, because the instinct is to try to slide the ribbed band through the snap in tab, which simply won't work due to the tight tolerances.
4. Since it's such a hassle to remove the tabs, and you can't adjust them in place-- if you are using this for a child, pull each side strap out until the END of the OUTER rubber band (the one with the large final ribbed "stop" rib at the end) is about 6 to 8 ribs from the outer edge of the mask. If you're using the toy as an adult or teen, you'll need only 2 or 3 ribs, or actually even with the stop tab, for a comfortable fit.
5. Adjust the top strap last, which is very easy to do and doesn't have to be removed. You just create slack in the bottom band, keep moving the plastic rectangular stay washer up, and lengthen the top. Please note that the top band isn't for fit, but to simply act like a "hat" and to fully pull the goggle down, it will have to be nearly fully lengthened for an adult, and close to fully out for a child, unless you're dealing with a toddler, which we definitely wouldn't recommend due to the terrible depth perception.
6. YES, you actually do need a screwdriver to change the batteries! You will see the hinges and wonder if the pack doesn't simply snap open like the left eye cup, but NO, you do have to have a tiny phillips, like the ones you use for eyeglass repair, or from a "tiny" screwdriver set. Since our tests show the batteries only last continuously for about 2 to 2-1/2 hours, you might want to keep the screwdriver handy! Duracell has run a promotion with a free little screwdriver with a pack of AA's,and this screwdriver works perfectly. Unscrew until the cover comes completely off (two screws). The battery diagram is impossible to read, and on the wrong side of the case, so simply start with the positive (nipple down/ in) on either side, and alternate (+/-/+/-/+ facing down). A good way to double check is to remember that the spring always touches the flat (-) side of the battery, not the nipple side.
7. Be careful unsnapping the left eye cup, as it can fly off the hinges. These actually are quite sturdy, and if you accidently separate them, you can snap them right back into the hinges. We recommend holding the cup with your left hand by the hinge, then snapping up near the opposite tab using leverage on the whole eye cup. If you want to look at this positively, it's an opportunity to work with your kids, as they won't be able to do this themselves!
Our number one question: Is this thing worth the hassle? Well, since we've evaluated real monocular gen 1-4 night vision equipment, which ranges from $400 to $4,000, the price of this unit is close to astonishing since it uses actual gen 1+ technology, albeit with a very small camera (the + usually means that by giving a white vs. green option, and augmentation with IR light, you get a little more than the green starlight collecting effect of the old gen 1). The "stealth" actually does work, by emitting less IR light than the full LED's, which is important for observing spooky critters like big cats, coyotes, or burglars.
Don't laugh, but we do get questions as to whether these have any tactical value. First, if you're sitting on your porch with a shotgun waiting for the Gran Torino gang (see it, it's great) to arrive, you'd be better off with a very bright tactical flashlight and motion detector. That said, the Russian handheld monoculars aren't much better, as they do use a free hand up, and cost $400! Actual "Patriot Games" like NVG's have TWO cameras, or binocular vision, so the "strap to the head" thing with these is somewhat deceptive, although it is nice not to hold a jiggling monocular. If you're a serious wildlife watcher, the Russian monocle would likely be better, but for the price, these are truly astonishing, since they do have genuine NV technology with IR. We give it five stars 100% for the price, since this technology is nowhere near that low a delivered value in the "non toy" versions, and this "toy" approaches the lower end gen 1's in acuity once you get used to the idiosyncrasies.
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Awsome for 80 bucks!!!!!
I got this today and with much excitement I stripped away the packaging.First I found some batteries, 5 AA Lithiums was my choice. Light and better runtime, next I opened the battery pack in the back with a screwdriver and plopped them in. After skimming the manual I ran to the attic. The display looks like an inch and a half when turned on. I prefer the green setting over the grey, the array of IR LED's work great for looking far away. The attic I was crawling around in was about 50ft long and I could clearly make out the far wall, I could even read the text on the boxes. In complete darkness I would walk slow because of the narrow view but WOW I can see great!!! It takes a minute to get use to but I love it.I work for a LED Micro light company in Oregon so we have IR clip mounted lights laying around. I mounted 4 to the goggles and low and behold I could see clearer all the way to the end of the wall.I'm off to hunt rats tonight Look out! Now the odds are in my favor!
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Reviewed in the United States on August 13, 2008
I got this today and with much excitement I stripped away the packaging.
First I found some batteries, 5 AA Lithiums was my choice. Light and better runtime, next I opened the battery pack in the back with a screwdriver and plopped them in. After skimming the manual I ran to the attic. The display looks like an inch and a half when turned on. I prefer the green setting over the grey, the array of IR LED's work great for looking far away. The attic I was crawling around in was about 50ft long and I could clearly make out the far wall, I could even read the text on the boxes. In complete darkness I would walk slow because of the narrow view but WOW I can see great!!! It takes a minute to get use to but I love it.
I work for a LED Micro light company in Oregon so we have IR clip mounted lights laying around. I mounted 4 to the goggles and low and behold I could see clearer all the way to the end of the wall.
I'm off to hunt rats tonight Look out! Now the odds are in my favor!
First I found some batteries, 5 AA Lithiums was my choice. Light and better runtime, next I opened the battery pack in the back with a screwdriver and plopped them in. After skimming the manual I ran to the attic. The display looks like an inch and a half when turned on. I prefer the green setting over the grey, the array of IR LED's work great for looking far away. The attic I was crawling around in was about 50ft long and I could clearly make out the far wall, I could even read the text on the boxes. In complete darkness I would walk slow because of the narrow view but WOW I can see great!!! It takes a minute to get use to but I love it.
I work for a LED Micro light company in Oregon so we have IR clip mounted lights laying around. I mounted 4 to the goggles and low and behold I could see clearer all the way to the end of the wall.
I'm off to hunt rats tonight Look out! Now the odds are in my favor!
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