FDC 99.6% PURE OXALIC ACID Powder C2H2O4 (Ethanedioic Acid Dihydrate) Rust Remover, Bleaching Agent, Wood Stain Remover & More!
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- 99.6% PURE OXALIC ACID Powder! HUNDREDS OF USES!
- GREAT FOR: Rust Removal, Iron Stain Removal, Metal Cleaning, Bleaching Agent, Wood Stain Cleaner, Pool Stain Remover & Much More!
- USE for Home, Garden, Industrial & Commercial Applications
- SAFE Resealable storage container with child resistant cap
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Oxalic acid is an essential household chemical that can be used, like many acids, as a cleaner for various things. For example, as a rust remover, a cleaning agent, on wood work as a stain lifter, as a bleaching agent, and many more. This acid is a natural component of plants and vegetables such as buckwheat and rhubarb and is available for purchase in powdered form. The Oxalic powder is then mixed with water to turn into a solution of Oxalic acid. At high doses Oxalic acid is very dangerous, but at moderate doses it is safe for various useful functions.
- Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : No
- Package Dimensions : 8.7 x 3.3 x 3.2 inches; 2.05 Pounds
- Date First Available : July 19, 2016
- Manufacturer : EcoClean Solutions
- ASIN : B01IPL7MZ6
Best Sellers Rank:
#1,251 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific)
- #2 in Chemical Acids
- Customer Reviews:
Top reviews from the United States
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One of my stubborn stains nothing else phased was in a wall mounted plastic (some form of heavy ¼") durable white plastic laundry sink definitely worth saving. The unsightly stain is completely gone. It also removed a 2 ft. arc of rust about 3" wide on the concrete in front of our garage that even the previous owner had given up on removing. In both cases After using Oxalic I see no collateral damage to the materials the rust was on, but I don't know that can be said about all the surfaces you might apply this to and the bottler didn't supply a list.
I CAN SAY WITHOUT HESITATION that this product can seriously burn your eyes, even blind you worst case. It can also seriously burn your skin. So from Amazon I bought long sleeve thick durable, rubber multi-layer gloves that will take acids, but be wary of raising your hands with these gloves being wet, because water-laden acid will run downhill on the gloves; since they are long gloves it's IMPORTANT to fold some of the excess glove length into cuffs. Always wear eye protection, the wrap around kind like you might wear swimming, and know where the nearest water and on-off valve are and how to find them without being dependent on seeing them because the very best FIRST aid is YOU FLUSHING your eyes (with them wide open and that's hard to do) for minutes, maybe as many as 15. It's also good to own an inexpensive eyewash cup, but there's no use in that if you can't find it using your hands if your eyes are in trouble, you must apply water immediately.
This container as supplied is 99.6% pure, so it can't get more dangerous, and you must rinse surfaces (as I did the concrete) to where the concrete and the runoff of that washing are sufficiently diluted to not hurt bare feet or pets. This powder, for whatever reasons, doesn't homogenize (mix well into a suspension) with water. It wont go into solution easily, but you can get it done. It also resisted being made into a paste. I flooded the surfaces and sprinkled the powder on and then left it. I returned and reapplied until the job was done. I covered the area with paper towels to draw out the length it would remain damp and to aid in making it into a paste. Since the powder did not shake out of the seemingly generous-sized shaker holes under the cap, I had to lift off that shaker cap after removing the lid in order to effectively get granules out a little at a time some of which had formed marble-sized lumps that needed to be crushed & spread. I live in a low humidity area, that helps.
The product lacked safety instructions in handling, disposal, and human contact which can cause burns, particularly serious for the eyes, and internally it's poison.
I've upgraded my view of the product which is wonderful for what it does. I had originally held back because this acid is 99.6% pure and is considered to be 10,000 times stronger than acetic acid and the container and the package label had no instructions on safe use or safe disposal, so my fears went out for our water reclamation departments should this be washed down a drain, or even waste management handlers that might come across a residual while handling refuse, not to mention what constitutes safe use by the buyer. I obtained the following from the Internet:
WARNING: 99.6% pure ACID, use with cuffed gloves and protective eyewear.
Oxalic is about 10,000 times “stronger” than the acetic acid in vinegar (vinegar is a 5% solution of acetic acid).
Oxalic acid poisoning symptoms include weakness, burning in the mouth, death from cardiovascular collapse, on the respiratory system,
throat – burning in the throat, abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, and coma.
At some point, you may have to use oxalic acid for a cleaning project in your home (it is especially useful for cleaning rust stains out of
concrete). It's also used by wood refinishers. Should this be the case, properly dispose of the acid or
acid solution you have made. Oxalic acid is a Class A organic chemical, a carboxylic acid. Although it is an acid, it is readily biodegradable
when properly diluted and neutralized. Here's how to dilute:
Dilute the oxalic acid. Pour the acid into a larger container of ice water. Pouring acid into water eliminates the risk of boiling and splashing that can result from pouring water into acid. Always pour acid into water and not the other way around.
Neutralize the oxalic acid. Slowly pour baking soda into the dilute. It will begin to bubble. Continue adding baking soda until the bubbling stops.
Test the pH. Using litmus paper, dip the strip into the solution until it reaches a pH of at least 5.5. It is best to continue adding baking soda until the solution reaches a pH of 7 (neutral on the pH scale), but a pH of at least 5.5 is safe to pour down the drain.
Pour down the drain. At this point, the solution has been neutralized and no longer poses a toxicity hazard. Pour down the drain while flushing with lots of excess water. Up to 100 g or 100ml at a time are suitable for flushing down the drain while flushing with excess water.
This kind of plastic jar the acid comes in (without any help from the contents) will dry out and become brittle, even when not in sunlight. Its aging giving up its polymers or whatever they're called that keeps plastic from becoming brittle. One day you'll grip it and it will crack in your hands. I've had this type of plastic bottle become brittle in the garage in a moderate climate in less than 2 years. Though it's supple as received at some point you'll drop it and it will go to pieces scattering it's contents. Maybe putting this container in a gallon glass jar or another suitable container will help prevent a spread of the powder when the original container gives up the ghost?
There are no instructions included for mixing. Water needs to be warm to mix. I used a teaspoon for 4 Oz of warm water let sit for 10 minutes to get great result as pictured below. Wood must be bare, no varnish .
I think it's likely valuable to talk about the technique.
1. I ordered a scrub attachment and rubber gloves/goggles.
2. I mixed the Oxalic acid in a jar with water - probably 1:5 ratio (1 part oxalic / 5 parts water)
3. I used a toothbrush to apply the mixture to the wall and let it sit for a minute or 2
4. I used my cordless drill with the brush attachment. Most of the stains were gone after 1 pass - some of the really dark ones took 4 or 5 passes of brushing/drying/reapplying.
I do see some lighting where I applied the mix - but was able to do a little blending - it's not noticeable by anyone other than me.
Great product - I need to find more uses for it!
The product arrived quickly and in perfect condition, but the bottle it is apparently now shipped in is different from that pictured. The bottle I received had a narrow neck with a screw cap, much like you would get a liquid product in. It did not have the large jar-type screw top pictured. Also, the acid crystals seem to clump together somewhat (I think this is the nature of the material, not a fault of the product), so dispensing them carefully through the narrow neck of the bottle was more difficult (I was trying to weigh a small amount on an electronic scale). It would be nice if the top was at least big enough to fit a spoon through, so that you could easily measure/dispense the acid . Not a deal-breaker for purchasing this product, but I just would have preferred the wide cap.