FUJIFILM FP-100C 3.25 X 4.25 Inches Professional Instant Color Film
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- Exceptional image quality and color reproduction.
- Superb tonal gradation from highlights through shadows.
- Wide applicable temperature range.
- Enhanced resistance to light-induced discoloration.
- Photos can be laminated.
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|Sold By||Dave Electronics||Amazon.com||MPCInc||BD Supply||RitzCamera||Variety deals|
|Item Dimensions||1 x 5.5 x 4 in||0.5 x 4.5 x 0.5 in||2.75 x 10.25 x 6.25 in||4 x 5.6 x 1 in||3.94 x 4.72 x 0.79 in||4.5 x 4.5 x 1 in|
|Item Weight||4 ounces||3.88 ounces||1.5 lbs||4.8 ounces||4.23 ounces||1 lb|
Fujifilm FP-100C is a "peel-apart-type" instant color daylight film that performs extremely well under varied lighting conditions. Its fine grain and rich tonal gradation make it ideal for passport photos, commercial test shots, presentations, ID photos, and direct printing.
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To my extreme delight, it does work! It is too cold outside to test it outdoors, and too dark in my apartment to get an amazing shot, so my only pictures so far are very dark and may as well be black and white (see first photo), but the clarity is great and I have no doubt that the photos will be even better when I am able to venture outside with it.
Loading the film was a little tricky, and the black tab did break as I was pulling it but I was able to open the back just a tad and slide the rest of the black tab out. Watching this video helped: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dK1FwL11bMs
Sad to see the black and white film is no longer produced. Hope Fujifilm keeps making the color version!
I have continued using this film over the past few months. Four or five packs later, the pictures continue to turn out great and the color quality is superb. I will continue to buy this film over and over again!
I originally bought this stuff for test exposures using Polaroid backs for Hasselblad and Mamiya medium format cameras, but later I decided to buy an old 1967 Polaroid 250 Land Camera off of eBay for $60 to see what I could do with whatever of this film is still being made. Best purchase ever!
In the process of messing around I found that people were able to actually reclaim the negatives from these peel-apart films by using household bleach to dissolve the opaque black anti-halation coating on the non-emulsion side of the negative. (The negative is the part that you peel off and normally throw away because once it's been exposed to light and transferred its dye to the print its intended job is done. The thing is that it still has a negative image and you can still use it in an enlarger or film scanner if you can just get the thick black coating off the other side of it.)
So now I basically take some shots on these, keep the negatives rather than toss them out, let them dry, then use bleach to remove the anti-halation coating on them. To see the process, do a search for "Fuji FP-100C Negative Reclamation". There are a bunch of videos on youtube and there's no generally agreed-upon "right way" to do it.
The best tips aren't well documented anywhere I know of, so here's what I've learned so far:
- Using Clorox High Efficiency Bleach Gel or some sort of similar "gel" type bleach works much better than regular bleach, but you can use standard laundry bleach or even bleach-based cleaners like Tilex Mold & Mildew Remover as long as the cleaner contains a high concentration of bleach. Stuff like Goo Gone, Goof Off, etc does not work.
- If you want to get all artistic, you can use a paintbrush to brush the bleach gel on certain areas of the black coating, wait, then rinse the dissolved area away to get interesting borders around the negative. As you might imagine, other techniques are possible as well.
- People use various methods for keeping the bleach off of the emulsion, but I find that if you slap the thing emulsion side down on a wet piece of glass and squeeze the water out from under it (sticking it to the glass) then it's rather hard for the bleach to get under the negative to damage the emulsion. Just make sure to start rinsing the bleach off from the middle of the negative so you don't flush water, and bleach, under the negative while you're trying to rinse the top off.
- you MUST let the negative dry before doing anything, otherwise the emulsion comes off too easily.
- After you initially let it dry, it seems that it's probably better to remove the black coating before washing the excess developer reagent "goop" off of the emulsion side. So use bleach, wash black stuff off, then wash the emulsion side off to remove any excess goop. Assuming you let the negative dry after peeling it off the print, you should be able to rub the emulsion with your finger under running water to get the reagent goop off.
- Bleach will definitely cause the emulsion to come off. You can intentionally apply bleach around the edge of the emulsion to cause this to happen in a somewhat controlled manner to get a border effect or whatever.
- After rinsing the negative off really well, it's best to dip it in photoflo to prevent streaking/bubbling during the drying. I actually don't have any photoflo so I've been messing with Finish Jet-Dry Drying Agent, Turbo Dry which is a very similar non-ionic surfactant.
After all of this is done, you have a negative that you can use in a scanner, enlarger, contact print, etc. The quality isn't exactly perfect but it's better than you'd probably think.
Have fun! I hope Fuji keeps making this stuff!
A couple hints.
1. I found that over development is almost a non-issue. I let one sit for 10 minutes at 65F and it was fine. Actually, better than when I followed the instructions, which said 3 minutes.
2. Under-developing is BAD. just don't cut the peel time short.
3. Don't know if it is the 50 year old camera or the film, but I had to crank up the "lightness" dial almost all the way to make what I consider good exposures. This film needs full lighting.
And if you're graduating from Fuji Instax (especially the garbage Instax Wide cameras) just know this produces much better photos with only a basic learning curve and slightly more work.