- Paperback: 480 pages
- Publisher: Fairchild Books; 3 edition (February 25, 2016)
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 1628929723
- ISBN-13: 978-1628929720
- Product Dimensions: 9 x 1.1 x 12 inches
- Shipping Weight: 3.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
- Average Customer Review: 4.6 out of 5 stars See all reviews (44 customer reviews)
- Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #289,096 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
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Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration 3rd Edition
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No other book addresses the topic as clearly and as concise as this one . . . I would consider it a 'Bible' on the subject. It is packed with information, challenges and solutions.
The books strength is that is offers a more objective way of assessing fit by giving guidance on what good fit should be something which is not explicit within the clothing industry. It also acknowledges that ideas of good fit can change given a particular season. The book enables students to approach fit is a logical and systematic way and provides solutions which they understand easily and have the skill set to undertake.
This is a comprehensive compendium of fitting and pattern alteration information. This text is appropriate for the intermediate student and as a resource, is very accessible and intuitive to use.
About the Author
Elizabeth Liechty is Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University, USA.
Judith Rasband is the founder and CEO of Conselle L.C. and director of the Conselle Institute of Image Management, USA.
Della N. Pottberg-Steineckert is Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University, USA.
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Top Customer Reviews
All in all, I'm pleased with it. It's not perfect, but it is the most complete resource I've found. It's pricey, but I think it's worth it. Others have suggested buying an older edition. The nerd in me won't allow that :-)
The book is organized into three sections. Things don't get good until Part Two. This is where the book goes into body types, ways to fit and a discussion of the various ways to alter a pattern.
Part Three is what you pay for -- figure variations and how to alter patterns for them. This covers 88 figure variations. For each, you are shown how to do the alteration via the seam method, pivot/slide method and slash method. I love that the book provided all three methods for each variation! I'm a little sad because it doesn't give info on how to adjust wrap skirts or tops.
Let me back up and give you the full picture: for each variation, the book explains what the issue is (figure evaluation); the problems it causes (fitting problems); how to alter for the problem in RTW and the muslin; gives body measurement positions and pattern measurement comparison. Then it gives you the correction for flat pattern alteration using three methods. This book is fantastic.
It's fantastic, but not perfect. While you get more detailed instructions regarding using the three methods to alter a basic pattern piece (like a darted bodice), the book gives you smaller reference pictures showing how the seam method would be used on other styles, like an empire-waist bodice. These are pictures only. I wish there were written isntructions too. My other criticism is that the for most of the alterations, it does not tell you the maximum adjustment amount you can make using any of the methods.
I hate the circa 80s apparel drawings. These are a direct lift from the first edition of Fabulous Fit. What irks me to no end is the use of "ideal" when referring to a figure variation. "There is more weight deposit an/or muscle development than average/ideal." How dare you. Make the comparison to "conventional standards" or something, but please don't say "ideal." It's absolutely offensive.
Now that I have this book, the Palmer/Pletsch books (Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series) and Pants for Real People: Fit and Sew for Any Body (Sewing for Real People series)) and Pattern Fitting With Confidence(pivot and slide method), I'm glad I have them all. This book covers more figure variations, but you get more detailed alteration information in the other books. They all work well together. Now what you don't need is Fabulous Fit: Speed Fitting and Alteration (2nd Edition), all of its info is contained this book (at least the first edition; I haven't seen the second). This is a textbook, so I imagine students are getting hands-on practice with each alteration, so they don't need the additional detail in the other books.
So the question is can this be your only fit and alterations book? The answer isn't a simple yes or no. If you are familiar with the three fitting methods and are looking for a single resource for all three, then the answer is yes. Now for beginners, it really depends. I needed the other books for the detail; I just couldn't grasp how to do some of the alterations. This book is a must-have for me; you may not need the level of detail I did.
However, I am returning this one, even though I am giving it 5 stars. I already have several books on wardrobe styling, selecting flattering styles, etc. so the first 200 pages of this book aren't that helpful for me. Also, I prefer the pattern alteration details in the first edition, although if I had never seen the first edition, I'm sure I would love the descriptions in this one. For the price, it doesn't have enough new information for me. If it cost $30, I would definitely keep it, and when I'm more flush, I could see buying it to have as an all-in-one reference text.
My main dissatisfaction with this edition is the TOC. The heart of these books is the detailed and well-organized list of possible fit problems. In the first book, these are numbered from 1 to 85 or something, and the number (and page number) appears in the TOC and also at the start of each associated section of the book (bodice, sleeve, etc.). The new edition doesn't have these listed anywhere! They are in part 3 of the book, and the TOC for that part essentially says:
Bodices, page 163
Sleeves, page 315
Skirts and pants, 352
And the individual sections don't have the alterations listed out either! So the only way to find them is to flip through the book, or know what you are looking for and find it in the index. The first 160 pages of the book are listed in fairly good detail in the TOC, and it seems a poor decision not to do the same for the alterations list.
1)Style selection for body type
The Fitting and Alteration sections are then broken down into 3 different methods.
Fitting section covers the Measurement method, Tissue fitted method and Trial garment methods of Fitting.
The Alteration section studies the Seam method, the pivot method and the 'corrected' slash method.
In all cases the book is unbiased as it studies the various methods for acheiving the same things.
The last 300 pages is a fully expanded reference of just about every possible pattern alteration. It gives details of how the alteration would be done no matter which method you use.
This is probably the most comprehensoive book on the subject, and certainly the most comprehensive on the subject of the seam method of alteration.
I have many books on Fitting and alteration and this is by far my favorite. It will be one I refer back to as long as I sew and draft patterns.