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Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter - Nikon Nikkor F Mount D/SLR Lens to Canon EOS (EF, EF-S) Mount SLR Camera Body
|Price:||$16.95 & FREE Shipping on orders over $25. Details|
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- Premium Grade Fotodiox Adapter
- Mounts Nikon Nikkor F Mount D/SLR Lens lenses to Canon EOS (EF, EF-S) Mount SLR Cameras
- High-tolerance precision craftsmanship; infinity focus or beyond guaranteed
- All-metal design; hardened anodized aluminum construction
- Includes a 24 Month Manufacturer Warranty
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|Package Height||0.6 x 3.2 x 3.2 inches|
|Shipping Weight||0.1 pounds|
Whether you're shooting digitally or on film, Fotodiox offers the world's largest selection of lens adapters. Mix camera/lens platforms or reinvigorate vintage glass; Fotodiox has hundreds of ways to mount lenses onto your DSLR or SLR camera. Our adapters deliver infinity focus, manual aperture control, and a sturdy build for lasting quality.
This is a manual adapter, so lens functions that rely on electronic communication with the camera body (autofocus, AE metering, image stabilization, etc.) will be disrupted. Set your exposure manually or meter using your camera's Aperture Priority (stop-down) mode. If your lens does not have a manual aperture control ring, it will stop down to its smallest f/stop by default.
Canon EOS (EF, EF-S) Mount SLR Cameras - Popular models include:
1d/1ds, Mark II, III, IV, X, C, 5D, 5D Mark II/III, 7D, 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D, 60Da
Rebel xt, xti, xs, xsi, t1i, T2i, T3, T3i, T4, 300D, 350D, 400D, 450D, 500D, 550D, 1000D
All pictures are for illustration purposes only. Actual product may vary slightly due to ongoing improvements in design.
Top Customer Reviews
After getting it off and tightening the screw so the lever/tab would actuate freely—but not flex—this thing worked great.
I can now use a bunch of (1960s-1970s) Nikkor/Nikon/Nikkormat lenses on my new Canon T2i. Yes, it will let you use those ancient lenses with the crazy bayonet prong thingy sticking up that used to fork into the SLR prism meters of the old film cameras.
The short answer: Yes, this adapter let me use old Nikon/Nikkor lenses on my Canon. They were really old lenses and most had that weird f/stop meter fork prong sticking up from the f/stop ring. I’m very happy with this purchase.
This worked with these old lenses I happened to have lying around, which I’ll list because some online sources say some of this won’t/will fit on digital cameras, but if it’s an old Nikkor it probably will work with this adapter onto your Canon Body. Here’s what I had that worked:
Now the really LONG answer with all sorts of cautions, opinions, etc. that you may or may not find interesting or useful:
WARNING #1: BEFORE YOU PUT THIS ON A NIKON/NIKKOR/NIKKORMAT LENS make sure that the screw that holds the little black lever tab on is tight! If it’s loose the lever tab will flex sideways and not really go up and down so then it won’t pull the pin upward, which will jam this adapter onto your lens.
This happened to me and the little pin had to be pulled up with a dental pick and an xacto blade while unscrewing the adapter (righty loosey!). So: test to make sure the release pin moves up and down with no sideways play.
Once off the lens (it worked fine on the other 5) I used lock tight on the tiny screw and tightened it. I made sure it was still loose enough that the black lever-tab could operate the locking pin up and down. Eventually I’m going to get one of these for each of my 6 Nikkor lenses along with 6 Canon endcaps (because with the adapter on the rear of the lens it is Canon size now and the old Nikon endcaps wouldn’t fit anymore).
WARNING #2 WHAT LENSES CAN I USE: well, pretty much anything that has the 54-year-old-and-still- in-use Nikon ‘F’ mount. Nikon/Nikkor/Nikkormat SLR cameras have been using the same mount since 1959, so if you have an ancient lens for these film cameras there’s a pretty darn good chance this ring will let you use them on your Canon. By the way: none of my lenses actually said "F" or "F Mount" on them: they had all sorts of other letters. F is the mounting system, not the lens type/name.
BUT YOU MUST BE CAREFUL!! A few of the old Nikkor lenses had a crazy metal tab that sticks about an 1” into the camera. These will NOT work—unless you use a dremel tool to cut that tab off, then it’ll work fine. If you don’t cut that huge tab off then it will smash into your mirror. I’m NOT talking about the little black metal tabs that are on many of these lenses and look like tiny nubby cute rabbit ears like upside down ‘L’s; or the low black or chrome curved ridges on the rear of the lenses—these are usually fine to have. Most of my lenses had two or three rabbit ear tabs and worked fine. You can’t even see them when the adapter is on. The thing you DO have to be careful of is a (rare) SHARP & HUGE ‘L’ thing with the top of the ‘L’ poking into the camera body. . If you have a huge ‘L’ shaped tab that sticks past the adapter and into the camera: STOP! You need to remove that tab.
Also, I’ve read of some of the older lenses had really big curved flanges—like a shark fin that would have to be dremeled off. I can only speak to the 6 lenses I tried. Mine just had normal flanges (black and chrome) and plastic rings and spikey blocky things, but no huge shark fins. Your mileage will vary. MAKE SURE NOTHING WILL HIT YOUR MIRROR OR THE ELECTRICAL CONTACTS OF YOUR CAMERA BODY.
A few Nikon lenses have a really tall fin/flange that goes almost all the way around. These may have to be removed as well. It should be pretty obvious if you’ve got a lens that will need grinding. Maybe I just lucked out with half-a-dozen that worked with no grinding. It should be really obvious and I don’t mean to make anyone paranoid. Personally, I’m not in the mood to grind anything, so if I dig up a lens with a tall ‘L’ or a huge shark fin flange, I’m probably just not going to use it—unless it’s one of the huge flanges that is screwed on: then I’d take it off and try.
To be clear: ALL these old lenses will have LITTLE tabs and ears sticking out of them. It’s just any huge ones that would hit your mirror that could be a problem. Looking online it seems *most* old Nikkor lenses don’t have these huge tabs anyway.
MY EXPERIENCE: With the adapter on each of my lenses NOTHING stuck past the adapter going into the camera Happily, NONE of the 6 mega-old lenses I got from a family member had any really tall tabs or flanges or L-thingies that interfered with fitment.
I had three old Nikon film SLR camera bodies (F body, EM body and a Nikkormat body) with six old lenses that worked interchangeably with them all. Since 1959 Nikon has used the ‘F-mount’ system on their SLRs, so there are many Nikon lenses in the world that will fit your Canon with this adapter. I have a Canon T2i.
MOUNTING: remember that RIGHTY IS LOOSEY on Nikon F-mount lenses! A major source of irritation if you’re used to righty tighty. Oh, and many of the lenses have all sorts of letters on them—none actually said ‘F’ or ‘F Mount’ on them, so yours probably won’t either.
The adapter fits VERY tight onto the lenses-and NORMAL tight onto the Canon body. It’s so tight on the lens that you’ll probably end up buying one for each lens so you can just leave them on—which is since you’re probably not going to put them back on your old Nikon film camera anyway (ie, the reason you’re shopping for adapters in the first place). Once in place it goes on/off the Canon body like any Canon lens. Nice and easy and clicks into place.
YES IT WORKS: old Nikkor/Nikon/Nikormat lenses, even the ones with that crazy metering/fstop FORK thing on the top/outside work just fine! My ancient 1960s-80s Nikkor lenses fit on the Canon and the camera meters through them. I’ve noticed that the faster (f1.8) Nikkor lenses overexpose slightly on auto-everything. Fine: it’s a DSLR, just adjust your exposure and see what you get.
I also bought an adapter like this one that lets me use my old Olympus OM Zuiko lenses from the 70s and the fast f1.8 50mm Olympus lens also overexposes a little. The 500mm telephoto and the slower lenses meter fine using auto-everything on the Canon (I used the silver rectangle with the line through it showing “no-flash” selected on the rotating knob of the Canon).
F/STOP: my Nikkor lenses all stopped down (depth-of-field preview mode) because nothing on the camera or adapter hits the old lens levers ~that’s a GREAT thing, you can use different f/stops instead of just wide open because of this. The bigger the f/stop you dial in the darker the view is and the larger the depth-of-field. I like that. I don’t have to hold down any depth-of-field preview button or anything. I just get the f/stop I want by turning the ring on the lens, focus by turning the other ring on the lens and snapping a photo. Some people might have a problem with this: the larger the f/stop number the darker the view is, which makes it harder to manually focus properly. When you use these lenses on old film cameras there is a lever that opens the f/stop until the shutter is tripped (or if you held down the depth-of-field preview button either on the lens or the camera body depending on the brand)—which is why the view wouldn’t darken on film cameras no matter what f/stop you chose (although some lenses didn’t have this feature and still would show a darker view depending on f/stop). Anyway: this is a good thing. You see what your f/stop choice does to your focus and since the Canon can meter with these old lenses everything comes out fine in the end. My Tamron 500m for Olympus is like that: no matter if I put it on a film SLR or a DSLR the f/stop changes the brightness and depth of field you see while looking through the lens and trying to focus-there is no non-preview mode. I’ve read (but not sure if true) that even though most Nikon DSLRs will mount old “F’ mount lenses SOME Nikon DSLRs supposedly cannot METER through them. That doesn’t sound like fun.
NO IT WON’T AUTOFOCUS: my Nikon lenses are so old they didn’t autofocus in the first place, so this wasn’t an issue. There is no sensor on this adapter, so you don’t get any sort of autofocus confirmation either. Again, my lenses were from early 70s so they never did that in the first place. Some of these types of adapters will have a circuit board thingy on them for use with newer lenses: you still have to manually focus, but the camera will notify you when you’ve achieved focus by blinking a light or something. I’ve read that these can and do burn out after a while anyway—so I went with this cheapy adapter. Even if I did have lenses with some electronic features I wouldn’t want them communicating with my nice new camera body through a cheap adapter and possibly shorting something out: but who knows, maybe they work awesome. The only autofocus lenses I own are the ones that came with the new Canon T2i kit. All the old Nikkors (and others) I have lying around are manual focus to begin with.
FOCUS: some lenses (possibly) won’t be in focus at infinity if you dial the focus ring all the way out. I didn’t have that issue, but I’ve read that you just focus all the way out, and then *in* a little and you’re fine. So, no biggie there: look with your eyes—either it’s focused or not.
WHY DO THIS? Because the Canon T2i (and probably other EOS bodies) meter through anything you can adapter-ring or duct tape onto the front of them you can use totally awesome lenses that you can find ultra-cheap online or even at garage sales. You can buy a box of expensive “film camera” lenses for five bucks and laugh when they ask you “film is dead, what are you going to do with those old lenses?” Adapt them!
I spent a lot of money in the past on nice lenses, and with a few cheap adapters I can re-use them on my Canon. Since Canon’s *video* is considered by many to be better than some of Nikon’s models (no wavy jellybeany video while panning, manual controls, longer HD record time, 1080 HD, etc.) you’ll find lots of people shooting VIDEO with Nikon/Nikkor lenses on Canon Bodies. Why-it looks great and is lots of fun!
-Righty loosey, lefty tighty with Nikon lenses.
-Make sure the black lever tap pulls the pin upward, if not: tighten the screw *before* jamming it onto a lens; or, buy an adapter for every lens you have and just leave them on (and then get CANON rear dustcaps—not Nikon—for the rear of each lens).
-Make sure nothing is sticking past the adapter and then they’re be nothing to poke your mirror and break it.
-My six lenses (listed) worked just fine. Your mileage may vary due to manufacturing changes over the decades.
-It’s nice to be able to use old expensive lenses again for cheap. Now you can hunt around your parent’s/grandparent’s basement and double or triple the amount of lenses you have.
-IT IS A LOT OF (CHEAP) FUN!
-Look around for other old lenses: Canon’s have adapters for tons of other manufacturer’s lenses (like Olympus OM Zuiko). I spent a measly few bucks on a couple adapters and all of a sudden I’ve got almost two dozen (very high optical quality) lenses for my new Canon DSLR for very little money.
I took a star off for the 45 minutes of worry and dental-picking to get it off the first time it jammed. After that it was smooth sailing. If I had tightened the screw BEFORE jamming it on a lens I probably would still have given this 4 stars just for the ‘ify’ design of the release lever.
Mike from Detroit
When I turn the focusing ring of a manual focus lens, or an autofocus lens functioning as a manual focus, I expect only the ring to move. With the Fotodiox there is excessive play (> 5 deg) between the lens and the adapter. When you turn the focusing ring with a Nikon AUTOfocus lens mounted, the lens will move first with respect to the adapter before the focusing ring does. I don't know about others but to me this is unacceptable. When I turn the focusing ring I expect only the ring to move. With AI-S (manual focus) lenses, the play is a little less (about 2 degrees), but in both cases there is not just rotational play between the lens and adapter which is hugely annoying but will probably not affect the final image, even worse, there is also a tiny bit of play in the angle the optical axis makes with the image plane. This *does* affect image quality as I have verified. Think 'view camera' where the plane of focus is not parallel to the image plane (sensor). At first I couldn't explain the loss of sharpness even with a stellar Nikon lens like the 17-35/2.8 on my 5d, but after some trial and error I pinned it down to misalignment between the focal plane and the sensor. This is simply not acceptable on any lens adapter regardless of cost.
Now that we know what the flaw is, what to do? Well, it turns out are two generic Nikon/EOS adapter designs out there. Most importers (Fotodiox included) order these from China and put their own logo on it. I have an adapter *identical* to the Fotodiox that I got from eBay(tons of those out there) except it doesn't have the Fotodiox name. You can tell this design from the presence of a little black spring loaded lever that you press to unattach the lens from the adapter. This is the flawed design and the one to avoid.
The other (costs about the same) has a little square tab with a hole in the middle which you push/pull to mount/ unmount the lens from the adapter. I own one of these as well. There is almost zero play with the lens mounted on this. It fits tightly and is a pleasure to focus with. This is the one to get. These are also plentifully available on eBay.
Needless to say, my Fotodiox is going back to Amazon.