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Franklin International 1414 Titebond-3 Ultimate Wood Glue, 16-Ounce

4.9 out of 5 stars 149 customer reviews
| 16 answered questions

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  • Waterproof-Superior Strength
  • Lower Application Temperature
  • Longer Open Assembly Time
  • Resists Solvents, heat & mildew
  • Unaffected by finishes
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  • Franklin International 1414 Titebond-3 Ultimate Wood Glue, 16-Ounce
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Product Description

Product Description

Finally, waterproof wood glue without the mess! Titebond III wood glue is waterproof, yet it cleans up with water. Unlike polyurethane glues, there is no foaming and it doesnt stain your hands. Plus its vastly stronger, safer and less expensive than polyurethane glues. It allows eight minutes of open assembly time and offers an application temperature as low as 47 degrees. The maker of Titebond III says that their new formula is a "natural progression of tradition and excellence." We see it as the ultimate wood glue!

From the Manufacturer

Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue. An advanced, proprietary technology that offers the best possible performance in woodworking glues. This waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type 1 water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues - ideal for both interior and exterior applications.

Product Information

Technical Details

Part Number 1414
Item Weight 1.3 pounds
Product Dimensions 3 x 3 x 9 inches
California residents Click here for Proposition 65 warning
Item model number 1414
Discontinued by manufacturer Yes
Size 16 oz.
Color Tan
Material other
Pattern N/A
Volume 0.473 liters
Item Package Quantity 1
Number Of Pieces 1
Batteries Included? No
Batteries Required? No
Warranty Description Shelf Life - 12 months

Additional Information

ASIN B0002YQ3KA
Customer Reviews
4.9 out of 5 stars 149 customer reviews

4.9 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank #1,028 in Home Improvements (See top 100)
#6 in Home Improvement > Hardware > Adhesives & Sealers > Wood Glue
#26 in Home Improvement > Hardware > Nails, Screws & Fasteners
Shipping Weight 1.5 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Domestic Shipping This item is also available for shipping to select countries outside the U.S.
International Shipping This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More
Date First Available September 14, 2004

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Customer Questions & Answers

Customer Reviews

Top Customer Reviews

On July 2, 2015 I tested Tightbond III glue to determine its strength on an end grain to end grain application with no reinforcement. Three days ago I cut a 45-degree angle in one piece of oak veneer plywood, ¾ of an inch thick (well… ¾ plywood thick), 1-½ inches wide. I made one cut and then flipped the board and glued the mitered angle together with Tightbond III glue. The joint was clamped. THERE WAS NO REINFORCEMENT OF ANY KIND. I waited three days before testing the joint.

I grabbed the ends of the boards and tried to force them apart. While I began with a small amount of pull I ended up pulling with all my strength (Ok, I’m 67 years old, male, and have arthritis in my hands… nonetheless I can press 200 pounds). The joint did not budge, crack, or do anything other than stay together. I then tried to twist them apart with the same result. No machine was used to test the board, they were not held in a vice or any clamp. It was my personal strength alone.

About two weeks ago I tried a similar test with the same result, but I had used pine in the same approximate dimensions. As this was “real wood” I thought the plywood test might yield different results. They did not.

Please try this test yourself. It is easy to do and the results are stunning, in my opinion.

In essence, the days of adding reinforcement to mitered joints are over. They were probably over years ago, but all my woodworking reference books talk about the lack of strength in mitered picture frame joints because the end grain to end grain joint cannot hold with glue alone. Modern glue, like Tightbond III has turned this advice stale.

Now, a woodworker can align the joints properly, cut the wood squarely, and make sure the wood is clean and glue the joint.
Read more ›
1 Comment 30 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you? Yes No Sending feedback...
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After reading Titebond's literature and viewing their web site, I thought this sounded like the perfect adhesive. After trying it I'm not convinced. First, I dislike the brown color. I think it makes the glue line much more noticable. Second, I did not find the open time any where close to 10 minutes as they claim. In my personal tests Titebond III sets up in about the same time frame as Titebond Original. I glued up eight different boards using biscuit reinforced butt joints. The glues I used were Titebond I,II,III and Elmers carpenter's glue. Two sets of joints using each adhesive, and all wood was from the same board of pine. After allowing each to dry for 24 hours, I broke each joint. Elmers carpenters glue was about 50/50 wood to glue failure. Titebond original was about 80/20 wood to glue failure. Titebond III was roughly the same as Titebond original. Titebond II was the only glue with 100 percent wood failure. My experiment was not scientific by any means, and I think any of these adhesives would more than likely be fine for their intended purpose. For myself, I'll stick with Titebond II. It has all the characteristics that I prefer in a all purpose wood glue.
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For many years I have been using Titebond II almost exclusively, and to great result, so I thought that Titebond III would have to be pretty outstanding for me to switch. On the first project that I used it on, I was very impressed. In the course of building an arts and crafts inspired coffee table, I needed to glue up six relatively long boards into a panel (the table top). I appreciated two things right away with this glue. First, the long open time meant that I was able to work at a comfortable pace without as much hurrying and stress as that sort of operation usually induces. Second, I appreciated that this glue dries to a light brown color, which blended in well with the general color of my q/s white oak.

Of course, only having used it for building indoor furniture, I cannot attest to the waterproof nature of this glue, but with all other things - open time, bond strength, color, etc. - I am sold. Titebond III is a winner in my book.
1 Comment 18 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you? Yes No Sending feedback...
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Used tightbond I, then II for years. Tried the III and can't see a reason to use anything else. Long open time, fantastic hold. I used it to glue up blanks that became croquet mallets. I purposely used only a light oil finish. These mallets took a beating, often being played with in the rain. A full season later and not even the hint of a joint separation. Also like the "non-yellow" color.
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Titebond III gives me a confidence that the former version didn't: colder bonding temperatures means I can leave glue-ups in the workshop overnight; greater bonding power means I don't have to rely on the messy polyurethane glues for bigger/tougher jobs, and 8 minutes working time seems like just the right amount for those final clamping adjustments.
The biggest difference in working with it is the glued-up joints get sticky pretty fast--making it easier to work with because it holds the pieces in place yet still allows for some movement until the 8 minute mark. The older version seemed more watery initially and not as durable after 24 hours.
A substantial overall improvement--worth throwing out the old stuff and replacing it with Titebond III.
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This is a very strong glue. It recently won a fair and well-orchestrated glue face-off. I use it. But I'd like to know who came up with the 10-minute open time thing. To me open time is the time available to maneuver parts into position before applying clamp pressure. I recently made an oak picture frame (3" wide x 1-1/2" thick) with biscuits in the mitered corners. The parts came off the miter sled fitting perfectly. Prepared the glue-up table so I could work quickly and started. When all four pieces were in position (about 3 minutes max) the first corner had seized and would not close. Had to take the assembly apart, clean up the glue, retrim the corners, and do it again (using epoxy). By my definition this glue's open time is about 10 milliseconds. I definitely do not recommend it for even slightly complicated glue-ups. For straight-forward gluing it is fast and strong, ie, if you build some sort of jig for your shop you'll probably be able to use it within a few hours. But the 10-minute open time is a myth.
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