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Meredith Erickson

Bobby Stuckey

Friuli Food and Wine: Frasca Cooking from Northern Italy's Mountains, Vineyards, and Seaside Hardcover – July 7, 2020

by Bobby Stuckey (Author), Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson (Author), Meredith Erickson (Author)

4.7 211 ratings

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An eye-opening exploration of a unique region of Italy that bridges the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, featuring 80 recipes and wine pairings from a master sommelier and James Beard Award-winning chef.

“An exhilarating journey, no passport required.”—Thomas Keller, chef/proprietor, The French Laundry

Bordered by Austria, Slovenia, and the Adriatic Sea, the northeastern Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia is an area of immense cultural blending, geographical diversity, and idyllic beauty. This tiny sliver of land is home to one of the most refined food and wine cultures in the world and yet remains off the grid. The unique cuisine of Friuli is what inspires the menu at Frasca, a James Beard Award-winning restaurant in Boulder, Colorado, helmed by master sommelier Bobby Stuckey and chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson.

Meaning “branch” or “bough,” the word frasca refers to the Friulian tradition of hanging a branch outside the family farm as a sign that new wine was available for sale. Friuli Food and Wine celebrates this practice and the wine and cuisine of the Friulian region through eighty recipes and wine pairings. Dishes such as Wild Mushroom and Montasio Fonduta, Chicken Marcundela with Cherry Mostarda and Potato Puree, Squash Gnocchi with Smoked Ricotta Sauce, and Whole Branzino in a Salt Crust are organized by Land, Sea, and Mountains, while profiles of local winemakers and wines, including Tocai, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, and Verduzzo, open up new pairing possibilities. Showcasing the best Friulian wines you can buy outside of Italy as well as restaurant and winery recommendations, this beautifully photographed cookbook, wine guide, and travelogue brings the delicious secrets of this untouched part of Italy into your home kitchen.

Print length

272 pages
Language

English
Publisher

Ten Speed Press
Publication date

July 7, 2020
Dimensions

9.54 x 1.1 x 11.3 inches
ISBN-10

0399580611
ISBN-13

978-0399580611
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From the Publisher

seafood recipes, meat cookbook, wine journal, pasta cookbook, wine cookbook, italian cooking, food

Editorial Reviews

Review

“[A] bighearted recipe collection . . . The food and wine covered are exciting and intriguing, and readers could not ask for more knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides.”—Publishers Weekly (starred review)

“This gorgeous book is Bobby and Lachlan in hardcover format--half wine, half food, but 100 percent passion for, dedication to, and love of the lesser-known region of Fruili—the place on which they based their pilgrimage-worthy restaurant Frasca in Boulder, Colorado. Between Bobby’s in-depth and incredibly knowledgeable notes on the wines, grapes, sub-regions, and wineries and Lachlan’s clearly explained tradition-with-a-twist recipes, you will be completely transported to Fruili . . . if you manage to hold yourself back from booking a flight immediately!”—Suzanne Goin, chef and author of Sunday Suppers at Lucques and The A.O.C. Cookbook

“If a pilgrimage to Friuli was not already on your bucket list, there’s no doubt it should be now. Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson’s restaurant Frasca is a mandatory stop for food and wine lovers everywhere. And now with Friuli Food and Wine, the two have taken us along on an entertaining and scholarly journey to the inspirational roots of the restaurant, capturing the essence and magic of Friuli Venezia Giulia—its wine, its food, and its welcoming hospitality.”—Danny Meyer, founder and CEO, Union Square Hospitality Group

“Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson credit Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, as a place where they truly learned about hospitality. And I know from personal experience how dedicated they are to hospitality, having witnessed it firsthand at The French Laundry and at their Boulder restaurant Frasca. With its lyrical writing and glorious photography, Friuli Food and Wine reads like a love letter to the region, celebrating its rich culinary traditions and its wondrous pairings of wine and food. The best cookbooks don't just teach us about cooking; they take us places. Think of this book as an exhilarating journey, no passport required.”—Thomas Keller, chef/proprietor, The French Laundry

“I first discovered Frasca, my favourite restaurant in America, in 2008 whilst on tour with Rush . . . and so began an education and love affair with an underappreciated corner of Italy called Friuli Venezia Giulia. This exquisitely produced and passionately written book is a must-have for all lovers of good food and wine. Bobby, Lachlan, and Meredith along with the Frasca team have brought Friuli to life through these recipes, historical descriptions, and connections. It sparks the wanderlust and makes one hungry and thirsty to be there . . . quite an accomplishment.”—Geddy Lee, bassist/vocalist of Rush

About the Author

Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson are co-owners of Frasca Food and Wine and Pizzeria Locale in Boulder, Colorado, and Tavernetta in Denver. A master sommelier and winemaker at Scarpetta wines, Bobby was previously a sommelier at The Little Nell in Aspen and wine director at The French Laundry. Lachlan was named a Best New Chef by Food & Wine, won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest, and has appeared on Bravo's Top Chef Masters. Frasca won a James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine Service in 2013 and Outstanding Service in 2019.

Meredith Erickson is the author of Alpine Cooking and the co-author of The Art of Living According to Joe Beef, Le Pigeon, Olympia Provisions, Kristen Kish Cooking, Claridge's: The Cookbook, and Joe Beef: Surviving the Apocalypse.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Introduction

by Bobby Stuckey

Friuli is where we truly learned about hospitality. The entire region and its people seem to breathe it. Let me give you an example.

In 2014, our good friend and restaurant peer Sam Beall, owner of Blackberry Farm in Tennessee (one of the greatest hospitality destinations and hotels in the world), asked us to take twenty guests on a cycling trip to Friuli Venezia Giulia (FVG, or simply “Friuli”) in the northeastern corner of Italy. We stayed at La Subida (see page 94), an inn run by the Sirk family (Jŏsko, Loredana, and their children, Tanja and Mitja) that had become our home away from home in Friuli after many years of visiting the area.

On the final day, we opted to cycle to the top of Monte Zoncolan, one of the longest and most classic climbs in the Carnic Alps and a 130-kilometer cycle from La Subida. Ninety-five kilometers into the ride, we had just reached the foot of Zoncolan when we noticed Jŏsko coming up on his motorcycle! He had ridden out to see us off on our climb, which was a huge gesture because the family was hosting a wedding at the hotel that day. Some three kilometers later, while traversing what is one of the steepest paved roads in Italy, we spotted him again—a moment of heartwarming relief from the deep physical pain.

The very last part of the climb is an eight-kilometer stretch that took most of us more than an hour to complete. Passing through a final tunnel to the summit, who should be waiting on the other side? None other than Jŏsko, who greeted us with magnums of Bjana sparkling wine. He sabered the bottles and waited more than an hour for all of the riders to finish, handing each a glass and a piece of home-baked strudel. As soon as the final rider had pulled up, Jŏsko motored back to the restaurant and worked the wedding.

The Sirk family will make you an espresso when it’s still dark outside, scoop fresh yogurt made on the next hillside for your breakfast, or offer bottles of sparkling wine at the end of a long climb. That’s hospitality. And that’s Friuli.

In 2003, Lachlan and I moved to the culinary middle-of-nowhere in Colorado to open a restaurant where the food and wine would be inspired by the relative middle-of-nowhere Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy. We had both just finished working at the French Laundry in Napa Valley and were looking for a fresh start and complete change from everything we had known. Boulder offered the mountains for cycling and running, but also physical space and head space. Our good friend (and a winemaker) Raj Parr tried to stage an intervention to stop us (along with my wife, Danette) from moving to this charming but frankly somewhat provincial town to open our own place—all to no avail.

The year before our move, we visited FVG with Nate Ready, our opening sommelier. At that point, we had already been seduced by, and were forcefully experimenting with, the wines of Friuli—from producers such as Radikon and Gravner—that are in fashion now but back then were edge-of-the-world-type stuff. The four of us had gotten on a plane to Venice and traveled an hour northeast to the border of Italy and Slovenia for what turned out to be the first of many pilgrimages. And although we had already built up the region in our minds, it exceeded expectations on every level. Nothing intrigued us more than the people, wine, and food of Friuli Venezia Giulia.

FVG is the southernmost piece of what was the Austrian Empire in the early 1800s and, for a brief moment, the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the late 1800s. It also contains a piece of Slavic culture to the west, all of which collide at the port city of Trieste, one of the only major ports of the former Austrian Empire. Access to Trieste brought Austrians everything from spices to coffee beans, and infused Friulano cuisine with elements of many cultures as shipments made their way along the road from the port to Vienna. Trieste was one of the first polyglot cities, combining Jewish and Eastern European cultural traditions in Western Europe. Italians consider FVG to be more Austrian or Slavic than Italian. And the administrative region of Friuli Venezia Giulia as we know it today was not wholly formed and didn’t belong to Italy until 1954. Before that date, Friuli was part-Italian, part-Slovenian, and part-Croatian. In fact, Friuli was once considered the western region of the area that included the eastern region of Venezia Giulia, which was connected to the Adriatic; hence the combined name.

The cuisine of Friuli paints a beautiful picture of this fragmented history. No other part of Italy (with the exception, perhaps, of Sicily) has been influenced by so many cultures and cuisines. FVG has been occupied by the Slavs, the Ottomans, the Venetians, the Austrians, the French (Napoleon brought French grapes to the area), and the Romans (the area was named after Julius Caesar). It’s a little less sunny than Tuscany and a little more mysterious too. This is a place that balances on the fringe of east and west . . . where the food and people are simple yet sophisticated, and the wine is esoteric yet incredibly versatile. This tiny sliver of land is home to one of the most refined food and wine cultures in the world, and yet it remains relatively unknown.

Italy is divided into many different regions: some have the food, some have the wine, but very few have both. Take Bologna, for instance. While the food culture there has depth, you can only drink so much Lambrusco. And Tuscany, with its beautiful sunsets and the rich cultural center of Florence, has incredible Brunellos and Chianti, but the cuisine—Bistecca alla Fiorentina and all—is less high-wattage and diverse. Sure, you’ll find the occasional pizzeria in Friuli. There is red sauce, of course. But that’s not the jam.

During our first trip to Friuli, Lachlan said, “This is the best Italian food I never knew existed.” Up until that point, he had mainly been cooking at French restaurants in Paris and the United States (like the French Laundry), and his experience with French provisions ran deep. But right away the cuisine of Friuli Venezia Giulia felt like our thing: not only through the prism of wine but also because the dishes felt both familiar and exotic. Tagliolini al Portonat (page 103) is a great example of this, it’s a simple pasta sauced with cream and a hit of poppy seeds that’s deeply infused and wrapped in San Daniele prosciutto. It’s so easy, so delicious, and yet so unlike anything we had seen on American menus. Before we opened Frasca, we had never been to a restaurant in the States that served Toc’ in Braide (page 75), a rich, creamy polenta cooked in a Parmesan broth that is perhaps the most famous recipe in Friuli. Though Lidia Bastianich has shined a light on Friuli’s food and wine (having spent her early childhood in Trieste), the cuisine is still not widely known nor close to popular.

Coming from a place that seems so exotic and mysterious, Friulano cuisine is actually quite accessible and translates well to home pantries and kitchens. When we first visited, we were surprised to find the food to be incredibly straightforward but with little glimpses of unexpected flavors, like anise, dill, cinnamon, caraway, ginger, and smoky paprika, all of which highlight Friuli’s history as a central market in the spice trade. We have always felt that with food and wine, the past gives you a good perspective on the future. This is helpful for relationships, and works with recipes and culture too. How wonderful is a simple potato gnocchi with the singular smell of smoked ricotta (from the Carnic Alps) and a garnish of poppy seeds that came through the port of Trieste? Three products, one each by way of land, mountain, and sea, all on a single, simple plate.

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Ten Speed Press; NO-VALUE edition (July 7, 2020)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 272 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0399580611
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0399580611
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 3.79 pounds
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 9.54 x 1.1 x 11.3 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #525,180 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #486 in Wine (Books)
- #513 in Italian Cooking, Food & Wine
- #517 in Homebrewing, Distilling & Wine Making

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4.7 211 ratings

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Meredith Erickson
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Meredith Erickson is the author of Alpine Cooking. She has co-authored The Art of Living According to Joe Beef, the Le Pigeon Cookbook, Olympia Provisions, Kristen Kish Cooking, the Claridge’s Cookbook, Joe Beef: Surviving the Apocalypse, The Frasca Cookbook, and Mandy’s.
The host of Audible’s Field Guide to Canada, Meredith splits her time between Montreal and Milan.
www.mereditherickson.com
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Bobby Stuckey
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Bobby Stuckey
Partner/Master Sommelier Frasca Food and Wine, Pizzeria Locale Boulder, Tavernetta & Scarpetta Wines BOULDER CO
Bobby joined the staff of The Little Nell restaurant in Aspen as a sommelier in 1995. During his five-year tenure, The Little Nell received numerous awards for wine and service. In 2000, Stuckey joined world-renowned chef Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in Yountville, California. Within his first year at The French Laundry, Stuckey earned the James Beard Foundation’s Outstanding Wine Service Award and San Francisco Magazine recognized him as “Wine Director of the Year.” The French Laundry is also where he met his future business partner, Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson. With the vision of opening a neighborhood restaurant reminiscent of the Italian frascas they had visited in Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, Stuckey and MackinnonPatterson opened their first restaurant, Frasca Food and Wine, in August 2004, in Boulder, CO. Stuckey recieved his Master Sommelier Diploma in 2004 and has earned James Beard Foundation nominations for Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional, Outstanding Wine Service, and the prestigious award for Outstanding Wine Service in 2013. In 2007, Stuckey and Mackinnon-Patterson launched Scarpetta Wines. In January 2011, Stuckey and Mackinnon-Patterson opened Pizzeria Locale Boulder, a contemporary pizzeria inspired by the traditional pizzerias of Naples, Italy. In the fall of 2017, Stuckey and Mackinnon-Patterson, along with partners Peter Hoglund, and Continuum Partners’ Mark Falcone, opened Tavernetta in Denver’s Union Station neighborhood. Tavernetta is inspired by Italy’s vast culinary traditions, with a menu that celebrates authentic regional classics from across the entire country in an approachable and welcoming environment.
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4.7 out of 5

211 global ratings

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D Roman

Exceeded expectations

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on January 12, 2023

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Book came quickly and condition was as good / better than promised. Price was good. Happy customer

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Amazon Customer

A great addition to the food literature on Friuli

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on September 17, 2020

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The Friuli Venezia Giuliani is often overlooked in the numerous Italian cookbooks on the market. Its cuisine incorporates Eastern European, Italian, and Austrian flavors that makes it very distictive.

About every ten years, someone discovers or rediscovers this area. Fred Plotkin's wonderful La Terra Fortunata released in 2001 was the first to 'discover' the cuisine of this region. In 2010, Elisabeth Antoine Crawford 'rediscovered' the cuisine in her Flavors of Friuli.
Now in 2020, Fiuli, does a wonderful job capturing the flavors, beauty, character, and individuals of this often overlooked area of Italy while adding a new perspective.

The chapter on wine was the first time I have seen the vineyards of this area talked about in detail. The following chapters tell the unique culinary story of this region through its outstanding recipes. A number of them are what I know as Mosiaco di Sapori Nostrani or 'Flavors of our land', usually a sauce or ragu that is a combination of locally sourced ingrediants served over polenta.
Friuli really is an outstanding book and a great addition to the culinary literature about this little known area of Italy. BTW, Lidia Bastianich grew up in this area so you know its food traditions have to be pretty solid.

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K.G.

Beautiful book full of delicious inspiration

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on August 26, 2020

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I was so excited for this book - Frasca, in Boulder CO, is one of our favorite restaurants, and this book is filled with recipes from the restaurant, and the Fruili region of Italy that inspired the restaurant.
The photographs are beautiful - the book is a lovely addition to a kitchen shelf or coffee table, it is truly too pretty to stick in a cabinet or hide in a shelf full of books.
The roast pork and peaches made a nice celebration dinner for a recent family birthday, and I have made the beef ragu several times already.
Being able to pull off a version of Frasca's Peanut Butter Cup at home has made me a family hero, and it is well worth the extra effort.
Gorgeous book, and a great range of recipes that will keep me reaching for it again and again.

2 people found this helpful

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Tricia Cohen

Transported Back to Fruili

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on December 30, 2020

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Fruili is one of my favorite regions in Italy for all the reason, and more, highlighted in the beautiful book. This cookbook is a love letter to this amazing region. Each recipe is written with such thought and care, paying particular attention to the different landscape and terrain and how they relate to the recipe. The binding and overall look of the book will encourage you to add this to your coffee table collection, perhaps it will even welcome a conversation or two about the region.

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Amazon Customer

Great book! Amazon fulfillment: not so much...

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on December 24, 2020

Verified Purchase

Fantastic, amazing, spectacular book; not great shipping experience. Amazon fulfillment took no precautions to protect a book in shipment (not even wrapping it in plastic at least) and the damage is pictured above. Was supposed to be a gift but cannot present this. Had to ask for a replacement and hoping for the best.

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shirlnich

Incredible Cookbook

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on August 17, 2020

Verified Purchase

Bobby and Lachlan do it again. They're able to transport you to a new world through the pages and recipes in this book. I am in awe of how beautifully designed this is and even if you can't cook everything inside, the artwork is fantastic and it transports you to a new world. Highly recommend!

One person found this helpful

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J. D. Meyer

Beautiful Book

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on October 4, 2020

Verified Purchase

I had spent some time in Friuli and when i saw this book, I decided to get it. I have to admit the recipes are a bit challenging at least for me, but the book and the photographs are wonderful. Would look good on anybody's coffee table.

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Some Guy

A fantastic find.

Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on February 22, 2022

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Several great recipes.

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